Natural selection , Best way to use...

[trichrider]

piqued my interest as well.
hope you got past the rough patch intact.
your dedication is appreciated regardless me ever coming into contact with a bag of NSPB.

Namaste

 

[SunshineJoy]

I also want to add to the good wishes and interest in your product. I found Marlo's WoW thread first, and appreciate your dedication and effort.

I too would like a heads-up when this is available.

All the best to you!

 

[kerlito]

hey i still don´t know how to use property it.


i wanna ask the same , i starter the thread for it , and i still don´t know , and i don´t want to do wrong.


I have soil from last year , reused soil.

Can anyone explain me , the best mix i can do?

Anyone use the same i post for first moment? or make any good changes?

 

[NSPB]

Kerlito...my friend. Want to first apologize for not doing this sooner. I know you have asked me several times and it keeps escaping me. Hope I can help you out.

Personally, I don't LIKE to use recycled soils. It takes a bit more knowledge and understanding of the organic world in sorts. It can be hard to know how much is left in the soil in regards to the micro nutrients. Some things are still very present and can really play havoc on how much more to add for the next round. If you choose to go this route, which in all reality is FINE, then I would recommend that you use more a bit more medium than is suggested on the back of the bag.


For the most simple usage: Take the entire contents of the bag...and simply mix it into your desired medium. Be sure to mix very thoroughly until it is all blended evenly. Cover to retain moisture (if medium is dry moisten slightly) and let it all sit in a nice dark warm place for two weeks. (ie "cook")

The confusion you are having is in picking the medium in which to grow in from best I can tell:

A. If you decide to use a medium that has no prior fertilization, the mix is designed to FULLY amend 1.5 cu ft of medium. (roughly 11 gallons) Examples: coconut coir, peat moss, local nursery / potting soil. This includes brand names such as Pro-Mix, etc that are essentially blends of base mediums.

How I use it:
3 gallons local /organic potting soil
2 gallons coconut coir
2 gallons peat moss
3 gallons calcined DE (or coarse/chunky perlite)
1 gallon earthworm castings

1 bag NSPB: FLF

This makes 1.5 cu ft. (roughly 11 gallons) of full amended just add water medium.

**If you notice this base medium mix is just slightly different than the one I posted on page 1 of this thread...just a bit different ratios. It is a flexible base mix that can really be customized to your own liking and room conditions. As you see, right now, higher coir and peat are aiding my water retention in an environment that is slightly drier/warmer than I was growing in previously. The ability to simply adjust my base medium without throwing the rest of the grow into a crisis has been a blessing for certain.**

B. If you decide to use a medium/soil that is pre-fertilized, because of the completeness of the NSPB mix, you will find the plants suffering from nutrient lock out and over-fertilization.(nutrient burn) To prevent this from happening, you will want to add ROUGHLY 88 liters (20 gallons) of any base unfertilized medium from A. Examples:

2 bags Fox Farm Ocean Forest
1 compressed bale Pro-Mix Bx

2 bags NSPB: FLF

This combo makes 264 liters (60 gallons) of fully amended just add water medium. (Phillthy's blend)

As you can see, using a pre-fetilized soil can extend the use of a single bag of NSPB:FLF to a larger amount of medium.

I personally have tried many variations that have worked extremely well. I think Marlo is using 50/50 Fox Farm Ocean Forest and coconut coir. However, I'm not sure exactly how many bags of NSPB mix he used or what the final mount of medium he amended was. I am wanting to say that ChuckYouFarley might have used the same mix as Phillthy...memory fails me.

The GOAL here Kerlito, is to have a mix that does NOT force people to change their preferred base medium. People really get used to a particular medium to grow in and many don't want to alter their entire growing methods and styles to simply feed the plant. Any true organic program should be find continuity between various mediums....if and only if you have a super active and healthy micro herd.

I'm not certain how you were feeding your previous soil that you are recycling, or what it is for that matter...but if your sig is any indication, I'd say any present / lingering chemical fertilizer in the soil is probably not your best friend when attempting a fully organic grow. The chemicals are not good for the maturation and development of the beneficial bacteria you will need in order to have the outcomes you desire.

I really hope this helps...and if not, I'll translate the best I can! Thanks once again, Kerlito, for taking the time and energy to ensure your garden is on point before trying the Full Life Formula. Regardless of using my nutrient mix or not, I know you are going to be a successful grower because you demand it of yourself...you don't settle...you plan. You have the right mindset for success...quit doubting yourself and grow those plants!



NSPB

 

[kerlito]

how can u say me sorry , i only can say u

 

[NSPB]

You are very welcome. The appreciation is mutual!



NSPB

 

[SmokinErb]

NSPB - I was wondering if you have any recommendations as to how to re-amend a soil? I'm currently using a mix similar to Phillthy's and would like to continue to reuse the soil. I'm confused as to how to view the recycled soil - is it a "hot" mix or a "spent" mix? I'm just not sure if I just add another 2 bags of NSPB to the same amount of soil or if I need to add a full bag per 11 gallons of soil mixture per the unfertilized medium instructions.

Would you recommend adding any thing else to the mixture, as you won't have the same amount of soil you started out with after removing rootballs? EWC? More FFOF? Just peat/perlite?

On a side note, thought I'd post up a couple of recent pictures of some girls I have currently thriving with the NSPB:

 

[mugenbao]

@SmokinErb - Wow, those look lovely! Beautiful colors too, man.

I'm pretty interested in this question also. I'm trying to recycle my soil more, as well as progressing toward a no-till/recycled grow style, so I'm very curious as to NSPB's take on re-amending the soil.

.

 

[NSPB]

RECYCLING SOIL:

To be FULLY honest...I feel like I am walking in a forest full of bear traps with this question. Only because I do not reuse my soil for the indoor gardens. I usually either just add it to the flower beds or to a larger compost pile that someday I'll do something with. (the compost pile gets EVERYTHING put in it. From all the table scraps, egg shells, yard debris, old leaves and stems, etc. Just more like a natural land fill...hehehe.)

BUT, I do not want to sit here and pretend to be an expert on something I know minimal about. And this isn't to suggest that I'm ignorant on the topic, but at the same time, every single plant is going to feed slightly differently....and who is to say WHAT is left.

The easiest thing I can tell you is REALLY pay attention to the plants deficiencies as it is growing..watch what is leaving the soil first...and how fast. By the end of a cycle, you can see the various types of depletion in the soil.

One of the aspect I can tell you first hand...your recycled soil will be higher in K, as a result of the natural availability of greensand. It doesn't technically break down for nutrient use until about 6 months down the road. So, depending on how long you let your original soil cook for, the availability of things could be quite different from user to user when you actually decide to run the plants. Another interesting aspect built into the mix that can be missed by others, is the dry molasses. There is a HUGE lack of understanding about this product within the cannabis industry as a whole but other forms of agriculture have been reaping the benefits of this wonderful soil addition for many years. To understand a bit more about it, you essentially have soybean hulls chopped finely and then coated with a high quality sugar cane molasses. (this quality is very brand specific) Once the micro herd is done with all the molasses, the remaining soybean matter breaks down and adds a bit of extra N to the soil. This is extremely beneficial to those of us who like to re-veg a plant that we missed taking clones of. This extra N starts finding availability in the mix at about 4-5 months. Which is perfect for not affecting the flowering stages of the plant, while still becoming PERFECTLY useful to use as cannabis farmers....or for those longer flowering sativa that need just a little extra N over a longer period of time.

Now this type of knowledge can make it a bit difficult in saying...THIS IS WHAT IS LEFT. As once again, even clones of the same plant based on individual vigor can feed differently in any given situation.

Another HUGE aspect to consider is the health of your own individual environment. Plants in a finely tuned environment will feed MUCH more than plants in a stressed situation. Also lighting plays a factor into this as well...higher intensity lights results in higher rates of photosynthesis and thus higher rates of nutrient consumption...

And really, to give you a much more comprehensive idea of what you are trying to figure out, without as much indirection as I have provided...lol...check these threads:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/forumdisplay.php?f=65647

And so I do give some sort of direction, I'd suggest using SLIGHTLY more soil per bag than I originally recommend. I'd try amending 15-16 gallons of medium the second time around rather than the normal amount. While this doesn't seem like much more medium, keep in mind, if growing in 3g containers, that is a whole plant more that needs to be feed.

One of the extreme benefits of organics and a vigorous micro herd is the ability of the plant to pick and choose what and when it is going to feed. Just because something is available for uptake, DOES NOT MEAN IT WILL USE IT, unlike a completely ionized liquid nutrient solution where the roots have to no choice but to chow down....

I'll leave it up to you folks to figure out your OWN. (I hope you understand why the different variables actually warrant such a response)...please do post what you decide and I'll do my very best to provide you with accurate information that can at the very least help you make a more accurate and better decision!

Much to all of those who are pushing the envelope in my own brain! LOVE IT!!!



NSPB

 

[mugenbao]

Thank you for the detailed response. Much of this aligns with my own thinking, but it's very nice to see it so well articulated by someone with more experience in the matter.

Also, I have been considering using dry molasses as a soil amendment for some time, but until now I had never seen any compelling explanation as to why it might be beneficial or what considerations are involved. Thank you for including that as an example of the window of nutrient availability, really gets the mental gears turning!

I love this thread

 

[statefarmguy]

HEY NS.. I BELIEVE I SAW SOME OF UR PRODUCT OFR SALE HER IN CALIFORNIA RECENTLY? AM I MISTAKEN? and maybe a dumb question but what may be the benefits/ diffrences of using powered / equine feed molasses as opposed to unsulphured gmas liquid?


IC MAG ROCKS

 

[NSPB]

The product was only available in MI for a short period of time....It was only stocked or offered through a couple stores as well...not sure why they never asked for a restock. But things are heading different directions now.

Could be an idea that's catching on though...maybe I've started something!

As far as the benefits of having it [molasses] present in the medium constantly, always available at whatever desired rate the micro organisms choose to use it...as long as you keep your medium properly moistened...vs...having to mix Grandmas sticky into your water every time. What if the micros could have benefitef from more? Or less? I personally found the aspects of a growing environment that nature can in fact control entirely on it's own; the less I interfere with what my conjectures are and thus
go imposing my concept of what is accurate, the better my plants became.

Keeping in mind one of the most important aspects of organic material availability is having an extensive micro herd. Molasses feeds the herd. Many traditional practicers say to use it only at certain times in flower or as part of a flushing ritual to "sweeten" their buds. What the point really is, is to help maximize the potential of the beneficial organisms and stimlulate their populations. This increases over all nutrient availability through out the medium from the many various organic compounds. Dry molasses allows for this process of feeding, populating, breaking down, to happen constantly during the full life of the plant...once again at a rate not chosen by my applications, but by the living thing that is dirt itself...

The purpose was to metaphorically stack the deck with the best possible hand in the plants corner, so when we simply mimick rain, the plant can go all in.

You like that analogy, don't you! Hope that gives you a better understanding of why I began pursing this style of gardening to begin with.



NSPB

 

[afi]

Very nice idea! I would be interested in trying this out when the time comes. I wish I could of found this while they carried it here in the shops. I have a lot of experience but when I go on vacation it would be awesome to be able to have a friend just add water. Keep up the good work it will all pay off in the end.

Peace, Afi

 

[Marlo]

So I've been using the NSPB Full Life Formula for just about a month or so. 2+ weeks in veg, and just over 2 weeks in flower. I'll admit, my plants usually look very healthy with no deficiencies.... With the NSPB my plants are just as healthy, if not healthier. Not a single complaint from any of my ladies.....and aside from a couple applications of Roots Excel, all I've had to do is add water. I can tell my plants absolutely love it so far. And so do I. Another 50-60 days to go...

For the record I used 1 bag of FFOF and mixed it with an equal part of pure Coco. To this 50/50 mix, I added 1 bag of NSPB FLF.
For the past 2 years I've been growing in the same 50/50 FFOF/COCO mix, feeding GH nutes with good results.







P.S. I don't miss buying, measuring, and mixing nutes

 

[NSPB]

Thank you for the kind words, Marlo... I'm truly glad you are enjoying your experience thus far!

In thinking, try adding 1 gallon of EWC to your base medium. This will help the beneficial bacteria in the mix take hold and thus all around faster rooting...



NSPB

 

[Acotaco]

I'd love to be able to buy some of the mix. What about selling it on the bay?

 

[NSPB]

Gypsy and I did discuss such possibilities and it was our collective decision that the Boo/Bay was not the proper venue for multiple reasons. Gypsy has been extremely helpful with regards to educating me a bit more about international considerations and general web security savy-ness. The most important aspect of this will be customer privacy and security. Gypsy will never allow his user base be put in harms way... And until the measures to offer the product in the most secure means are in place, we wait...

All these things take money...It is worth the time and expenditure to ensure security. Good idea though; Thanks for throwing it out there!



NSPB

 

[budman678]

thanks for the update NSPB...this is good stuff. I am def interested in just adding water...screw all these bottle nutes

 

[chuckyoufarley]

i cant wait to run some again .

 

[Nader]

This method of gardening very much resonates with me
I am a big fan of enriching the soil itself and only including a few things, if any, in the water. I do like using hygrozyme and roots excel with some liquid fulvic/humic acids, as well as compost teas every now and then.

A few things that I've been using (to amend my soil) with great success are:

- Sango coral calcium powder: when I use it, my plants just seem happier. you don't need much at all, especially since it's got a very high pH... lots of calcium, magnesium, and tons of trace minerals
- "Mum's" brand organic vine-ripened banana powder: I've been using this to see how it compares to molasses for feeding microbes.. I personally think it's superior, and seems to boost microbe activity for a very long time. Again, a little goes a long way. If it wasn't organic and vine-ripened, then this stuff would surely do more harm than good.
- Rock dust, rock dust, and more rock dust (the more paramagnetic, the better)
- Zeolite: I water so much less when I throw in enough of this stuff.

I highly recommend you give these a shot, especially the banana and coral powder