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Natural selection , Best way to use...
- Thread starter kerlito
- Start date
well is it done yet ? lol . hey man atleast by the time you get it ready, i will have tried lots more mixes to compare it too. kellogg,espoma,piece of mind ,happy frog and a whole list of others. i for sure will try some. i dont have the room for 20 bags of 50lb ferts anymore. so having a premixed fert is appealing to me even if it cost a bit more than self made.
SereneGreenThum
Member
To those of you who are interested in organic growing without bottled nutrients: research biodynamic accumulators and the soil food web. Vivacious microbes (from compost or worm castings that you can make yourself for the best results or purchase locally) and a wide spectrum of nutrient dense food sources is all one needs to replicate natural selection. Microbes serve as the messengers through which information in the form of nutrients is transformed from raw materials (such as fallen leaves or parent material from the bedrock of Earth) into a plant-available form (in nature these plant available forms of nutrients are microbes or the byproduct of soil-microbial interaction).
First, how can we enhance our soil food web so as to cultivate a "microherd" of billions of microorganisms that can feed plants with much more efficacy than any human can? Track down some compost or worm castings (while your at it start your own compost or worm casting system and start collecting food scraps from your home, garden, friends, local businesses, dumpster diving, etc.). Compost or worm castings are a crucial ingredient in successful soil mixes because both compost or worm castings innoculate soil with a "microherd" of messengers that will provide one's plants with the information needed to thrive. Other sources of soil food web enhancing innoculants are mycorrhizal fungi, beneficial nematodes, beneficial bacteria, and beneficial protozoa. These various forms of soil food web enhancing innoculants can be purchased online or at your local gardening/grow store.
Now that we have our soil innoculated, alive and thriving, how can we provide a diverse and rich abundance of nutritious food for our microherd of critical messengers? Well a salubrious soil food web has similar nutrient requirements to us human beings. Following this logic, we know that a healthy soil food web needs diverse food sources, mostly plant based food sources predominantly consisting mostly of the element carbon, with a significant amounts of the elements nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus, and smaller amounts of the elements magnesium, calcium, zinc, iron, copper, boron, etc. Thus, we create a blend of soil synergy manifested by a harmonious coalescence of carbon-rich organic matter (coir, peat, spaghnum, etc.) and nutrient rich materials (kelp meal, bone meal, blood meal, alfalpha meal, phosphate rock dust, leonardite, bat guano, sea bird guano, dried molasses, organic ine ripened banana powder, coral calcim powder, yucca, and dynamic accumulators such as nettles or comfrey). Dynamic accumulators are plants that have adapted to transform abundances of nutrients from the soil into its physical structure, mining micro and macro nutrients from deep in the Earth amd pulling the precious nutrients from the unreachable depths of Earth to the soil surface where other plants can utilize and thrive upon the precious nutrients. Check out this tidbit from a permaculture oriented wikipedia type website: "Dynamic accumulators are plants that mine nutrients from the soil through their roots. These plants can then be used as a fertiliser, or as part of a fertiliser mix, for other plants that may be deficient in those particular nutrients.
Here is a list of plants that work as dynamic accumulators:
■Arrowroot
■Borage
■Bracken
■Buckwheat
■Carrot leaves
■Chicory
■Clovers
■Comfrey
■Daikon
■Groundsel
■Kelp
■Lemon Balm
■Marigold
■Mint-peppermint, spearmint
■Stinging Nettle
■Strawberry leaves
■Yarrow "
As you can see by the common nature of dynamic accumulators on the list, one can easily grow their own dynamic accumulators and thus grow their own micro-nutrient rich food to add to the abundance of diverse food sources for the "microherd" of crucial messengers. One could grow dynamic accumulators, harvest the foliage of those dynamic accumulators, make a meal out of the foliage by drying and grinding, then one can either make a tea or blen the nutritious meal into their soil mix.
Once one finds the proper sources and balance of food for their "microherd", they can dial the p.h. of their mix to a prime 5.7-6.5 so the cationexchange capacity of the soil is at a level conducive to plants readily uptaking nutrients through their roots.
First, how can we enhance our soil food web so as to cultivate a "microherd" of billions of microorganisms that can feed plants with much more efficacy than any human can? Track down some compost or worm castings (while your at it start your own compost or worm casting system and start collecting food scraps from your home, garden, friends, local businesses, dumpster diving, etc.). Compost or worm castings are a crucial ingredient in successful soil mixes because both compost or worm castings innoculate soil with a "microherd" of messengers that will provide one's plants with the information needed to thrive. Other sources of soil food web enhancing innoculants are mycorrhizal fungi, beneficial nematodes, beneficial bacteria, and beneficial protozoa. These various forms of soil food web enhancing innoculants can be purchased online or at your local gardening/grow store.
Now that we have our soil innoculated, alive and thriving, how can we provide a diverse and rich abundance of nutritious food for our microherd of critical messengers? Well a salubrious soil food web has similar nutrient requirements to us human beings. Following this logic, we know that a healthy soil food web needs diverse food sources, mostly plant based food sources predominantly consisting mostly of the element carbon, with a significant amounts of the elements nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus, and smaller amounts of the elements magnesium, calcium, zinc, iron, copper, boron, etc. Thus, we create a blend of soil synergy manifested by a harmonious coalescence of carbon-rich organic matter (coir, peat, spaghnum, etc.) and nutrient rich materials (kelp meal, bone meal, blood meal, alfalpha meal, phosphate rock dust, leonardite, bat guano, sea bird guano, dried molasses, organic ine ripened banana powder, coral calcim powder, yucca, and dynamic accumulators such as nettles or comfrey). Dynamic accumulators are plants that have adapted to transform abundances of nutrients from the soil into its physical structure, mining micro and macro nutrients from deep in the Earth amd pulling the precious nutrients from the unreachable depths of Earth to the soil surface where other plants can utilize and thrive upon the precious nutrients. Check out this tidbit from a permaculture oriented wikipedia type website: "Dynamic accumulators are plants that mine nutrients from the soil through their roots. These plants can then be used as a fertiliser, or as part of a fertiliser mix, for other plants that may be deficient in those particular nutrients.
Here is a list of plants that work as dynamic accumulators:
■Arrowroot
■Borage
■Bracken
■Buckwheat
■Carrot leaves
■Chicory
■Clovers
■Comfrey
■Daikon
■Groundsel
■Kelp
■Lemon Balm
■Marigold
■Mint-peppermint, spearmint
■Stinging Nettle
■Strawberry leaves
■Yarrow "
As you can see by the common nature of dynamic accumulators on the list, one can easily grow their own dynamic accumulators and thus grow their own micro-nutrient rich food to add to the abundance of diverse food sources for the "microherd" of crucial messengers. One could grow dynamic accumulators, harvest the foliage of those dynamic accumulators, make a meal out of the foliage by drying and grinding, then one can either make a tea or blen the nutritious meal into their soil mix.
Once one finds the proper sources and balance of food for their "microherd", they can dial the p.h. of their mix to a prime 5.7-6.5 so the cationexchange capacity of the soil is at a level conducive to plants readily uptaking nutrients through their roots.
I would like to know how this differs from subcools super soil recipe? they seem very similar except his mix needs a month to cook instead of 2 weeks what other things are different sorry if you have already answered this the only way I have ever considered organics was using subs mix and advanced nuts iguana juice but I like the fact that your's can be used in pure coco unlike subs and you have done all the work for me so I dnt have to buy 20 different amendments measure and mix its all in one easy to use bag. I hope you are getting close to production so we can all try this awesome product.
shrpshooter
Member
Dank frank.. have u been able to get this stuff to the market yet .as I've been looking forward to trying it for a while but just checking in with you .....thankz a lot ...shrpshooter
please tell me this is coming soon...?
Gotta give more props to my man dank.frank here. used this mix a while back and had a couple totes sitting around for a while....
Aint grow nothing in a while so i grabbed a couple old freebies and busted out the nspb totes....
here we are day 60 in flower. NSPB, just add water start to finish:
Big Buddha's Blue Cheese:
Delicious Seeds Fruity Chronic Juice:
And here's a couple older shots of 'em about a week ago:
Aint grow nothing in a while so i grabbed a couple old freebies and busted out the nspb totes....
here we are day 60 in flower. NSPB, just add water start to finish:
Big Buddha's Blue Cheese:
Delicious Seeds Fruity Chronic Juice:
And here's a couple older shots of 'em about a week ago:
LilMan72003
Active member
This is sounding like the best thing that never happened to the cannabis growing industry. Anyone have suggestions tinkering with the proportions of the ingredients in the dry mix?
bostondutchmast
Member
is this available to the public yet?
It is not...it's merely a financial hurdle that some day I hope I'm in a position to bring it back to retail.
In the mean time, read this thread:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=258168
dank.Frank
In the mean time, read this thread:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=258168
dank.Frank
w4tch
Member
should I try ?:
"Basic Amendment Recipe:
1/2c alfalfa meal
1/2c dry molasses
1c kelp meal
1c blood meal
1c bone meal
1/2c seabird guano
2tbsp Sul-Po-Mg
1/2c azomite
1/3c dolomite
1/3c gypsum
2/3c oyster shell flour
1/4 tbsp BioVam
1/4 tbsp BioAg Vam
*Typically, I just use 1 bag of the NSPB:FLF mix and let that compost for 4-6wks before use.
Phillthy's base mix (use with basic amendment recipe above):
1/2 - bale Pro Mix Bx
1 - bag FFOF (or equivalent)
1/2 - 30# bag EWC
5 gal additional chunky perlite"
Would you recommend any strains to use outdoors in these mixes? (42N- NEUSA)
Yes. That would work just fine.
I've used a very similar mix - although not quite as complex for outdoors in the midwest.
When growing outdoors though, I really tend to favor mixing in SOME local soil...the local fauna is going to help you in the end.
Don't think about organic soil as a set volume of medium and then making the mix stronger or weaker by adding to it or taking away from it. Instead, think about it how big the plant is going to be and adjusting the volume of the soil accordingly. So bigger plants or longer flowering plants don't need a "stronger mix" - they just need a larger volume of soil..
If you are planting in beds or containers then the above works fine...if you are planting directly into the ground, you may want to consider this post:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=6245035&postcount=11
At 42 - pretty much want to keep it to anything that finishes in 10wks or less. Make sure you are getting early morning sun as opposed to late evening sun if you have to pick one or the other. The main reason being, the early sun helps dry the dew off the plants and keeps them from developing mold or budrot.
The following were in peat, local soil, county compost, EWC, perlite and an even simpler amendment recipe that is not as good as what is listed in the first link:
This was planted middle of may - pictures were mid July - I never did get harvest pics that year. This was much more of a guerrilla grow - and was only looked in on once a month...so really not the best example...but you can see the plants are healthy at least.
Arcata Trainwreck - about 7ft in this picture:
Chem D - about 5 ft
Just to give you a rough idea. If it was a truly tended garden...your results would be far superior.
dank.Frank
I've used a very similar mix - although not quite as complex for outdoors in the midwest.
When growing outdoors though, I really tend to favor mixing in SOME local soil...the local fauna is going to help you in the end.
Don't think about organic soil as a set volume of medium and then making the mix stronger or weaker by adding to it or taking away from it. Instead, think about it how big the plant is going to be and adjusting the volume of the soil accordingly. So bigger plants or longer flowering plants don't need a "stronger mix" - they just need a larger volume of soil..
If you are planting in beds or containers then the above works fine...if you are planting directly into the ground, you may want to consider this post:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=6245035&postcount=11
At 42 - pretty much want to keep it to anything that finishes in 10wks or less. Make sure you are getting early morning sun as opposed to late evening sun if you have to pick one or the other. The main reason being, the early sun helps dry the dew off the plants and keeps them from developing mold or budrot.
The following were in peat, local soil, county compost, EWC, perlite and an even simpler amendment recipe that is not as good as what is listed in the first link:
This was planted middle of may - pictures were mid July - I never did get harvest pics that year. This was much more of a guerrilla grow - and was only looked in on once a month...so really not the best example...but you can see the plants are healthy at least.
Arcata Trainwreck - about 7ft in this picture:
Chem D - about 5 ft
Just to give you a rough idea. If it was a truly tended garden...your results would be far superior.
dank.Frank
w4tch
Member
Thank you again dank.Frank! I'll let you know how the results are!
