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Mycorrhizal Fungi

can i use Mycorrhizal in coco or peatmoss so that i can use organic nutes ?


I use Mycorrhizae fungus spores in my own oxygen-boosted coco-coir based organic grow. The fungus takes well to the coco so long as it has some organics to eat. I mix mycorrhizal spores along with dormant pro-biotics into a medium consisting of 50% coco, 20% organic compost, 15% vermiculite and 15% pearlite. The results are spectacular, I've been keeping a grow diary here:

http://my.gardenguides.com/members/.../27/Our_Innovative_Indoor_Tomato_Garden_Diary

Hope this helps. Good luck and happy gardening!

-DM
 

Tarbosh

Member
anyone here try subculture-M or subculture-B by GH? is that organic?

I mean it has tons of beneficials I would assume its organic...... but not positive bc its from GH.... any input?
 
so what is the trick to keeping the fungus and bacteria alive? How often do you need to inoculate your medium? Im planning in using Great White in my next DWC grow with house and garden nutes. Thats what my local hydro store recommended, and im interested in what the experts around here think.
 
B

BURNING SKY

I use Plant success Soluable and apply one whole pack to one 50 gl res. reup every 2 weeks. This stacked with subculture will give the best results i have found... There are other companies however as subculture gets pricy when plants go up and more is needed. subculture every week with new nutes and plant success every 2 that simple..
 

Hovz

Active member
I use the General Hydroponics Subculture M and Subculture B, one of them is for the Mycorrhizal Fungi.
 

Slimm

Member
I use 3% hydrogen peroxide to keep my reservoir and root zones clean in a hydroponic (perlite and coco) grow. I add about 5 ml per gallon of water to a new reservoir and then add back small amounts daily. I also use straight tap water which does contain chlorine and chloramine.

What effect might this have on the Mycorrhizae? Is there a level of H2O2 that is relatively safe for the Mycorrhizae?
 
just a tip 4 all u hydro growers out there who r using micro beasties in your medium .MAKE SURE every fertilizer and additive you use contains no manmade salts whatsoever... Any and all additives containing ANY man made salts will swiftly kill ALL of your microherd you have worked so hard(and paid so much money to acheive) This includes ANY ph up and down products even if it says organic on the label.

NONSENSE! :noway:
 

Slimm

Member
anyone here try subculture-M or subculture-B by GH? is that organic?

I mean it has tons of beneficials I would assume its organic...... but not positive bc its from GH.... any input?

NONSENSE! :noway:

This argument keeps coming up with no hard data to support either side. I really want to know the truth. Please cite references or the results of an experiment that proves your point.
 
This argument keeps coming up with no hard data to support either side. I really want to know the truth. Please cite references or the results of an experiment that proves your point.

Slimm, data isn't required to refute the claim which says that any amount of synthetics will instantly kill off the ENTIRE microherd. It simply isn't true. It isn't even remotely true. The perpetuation of this popular myth is an outrageous fraud! I mean, all you need to do is look at a water sample with a microscope and see the microbes alive within a dissolved synthetic salts solution. Heck, bacterias are even used to devour oil spills. That beneficial microbes can thrive in the presence of synthetics is fact. However, this does NOT mean that the beneficial organisms are living happily or in a helpful balance within the eco system. It NOT mean that the nitrogen cycle can or will work the same as when they are not present. All I'm doing is calling "B.S." on the salts kill instantly bit.

Besides, plenty of organic materials contain salts.
Here is a list of some common Organic and Inorganic fertilizers' salt index:

Sodium nitrate - 100
Potassium Sulfate- 43 (potash)
Calcium Sulfate - 8 (gypsum)
Manure salts - 92
Seabird guano - 43
Feather meal - 1.4
Bone meal - 1.8
Blood meal - 2.8
Meat and bone meal - 3.9
Ammonia - 47
Ammonium sulfate - 68
Urea -74
Mono-potassium phosphate - 9
Potassium chloride - 120
Potassium sulfate - 43
Calcium nitrate - 55
Super phosphate - 10
Ammonium phosphate - 32

Note: Manure salts are the water soluble salts present in manure. Manures commonly contain 4 to 5% soluble salts (dry weight basis) and may run as high as 10%. You can't measure the EC of the manure itself, so the salts have to be dissolved in water at the appropriate concentration for comparison.

How's THAT for data? Yeah, I like to stir the pot, but this "SALTS KILL" hysteria is just too ridiculous to ignore.
 

h.h.

Active member
Veteran

http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2011...with-compost-tea/comment-page-1/#comment-1987

It is a common supposition that synthetic products (i.e. mineral based nutrients) kill microbes. While this is certainly true on some level, using compost tea with synthetic nutrient regiments can produce good results. The image inset illustrates the use of a leading compost tea brew used at one cup per gallon on weekly reservoir changes in a mineral-based hydroponic situation growing jalapenos.
jappies.jpg


Again, it’s a better/best scenario; you’re better off using compost tea and mitigating the potential harshness of your mineral-based nutrients than worrying about the microbes dying.
 

thinkin

Member
Mycorrhizae + Hydroponics

Mycorrhizae + Hydroponics

Best Info i have found:
Yes, you can successfully run VAM in hydroponics.

Hydroponics Tools / Tips


  • Mix mycorrhizae directly with soil-less media or add directly to nutrient solution.
  • Maintain Ph between 5.5 – 7.5 for best results.
  • Maintain P at less than 70ppm available.
  • Use mycorrhizal inoculums that contain multiples species for the best response.
  • Use aeration in the system, or ebb and flow, as these organisms are aerobic.
  • Once plants are effectively colonized fertility can be reduced 30%.
  • Best results are obtained with multiple applications throughout the growth cycle.
  • After flowering has begun your mycelial network should already be establish and there is no reason to continue the applications of Mycorrhizal fungi.

referenced from:
http://www.mycorrhizae.com/tools-tips-products#hydroponics
 

FLAgreenthumb

Active member
I have a question... no ego here, as I have never run anything but synthetics in hydro, and organics in soil. I question how fungi could survive, or even if they latched on to the roots and managed to hang on for dear life... how could they grow and source water and minerals in a waterculture system like DWC or aero? I can see rockwool slabs or coco/chow mix... again this is all in my minds eye... i have no organic hydro experience...

Also, i have used fungal/microbial all in one innoculants for years, and only in the past 2 years have io started researching which fungal strains are more or less beneficial to which plants... from what i have read only 2 varieties of fungi will colonize the roots of cannabis... glomulus intraradices and glomulus mosseae... and I am of the understanding that since they are all competeing for the same food source that innoculating your medium with anything other than the fungi that will colonize the roots of the plant your growing is a waste.... I have also noticed that most of the all-in-one innoculants have very few of the endo variety(especially the two we need), and many more of the ecto...
and truckloads of trichoderma.... and that trichoderma is much cheaper to manufacture or purchase and this is why... Sooooo after reading all this would it be better to only use the two varieties that colonize our plant? seems to me it would.... Also i have heard that bacteria and fungi are in competition in the medium... how do you make sure that you keep a good balance between the two....outside I have always used good organic compost and added castings from my wormbed... I used to sprinkle mycor flowersaver in the planting holes when i transplanted, then about 5 years ago I started using plant success products.... Ive always had great results although i never ran side by side experiments so i dont know if i was benefitting fromthe coin i was dropping... That flowersaver used to be pretty damn pricey back in 00' actually thats why i went to plant success products was because of the price..
I would be eternally grateful if someone who has real life experience using fungal innoculants would please educate me and take the time to address my queries...lol

Sorry for the long drawn out question..

Peace
 

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