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konstantgrdnr
Member
Just delivering the word
The Benefits of Beneficial Organisms - Guineapig and IM Boggled, CC forums circa 3-2006
The effects of micro-organisms on a plant can be profound. These organisms, such as bacillus, mycorrhizae and trichoderma all form symbiotic relationships with the plant and are found in soil. Bacillus is used world wide for the control of loopers, fungus gnats, insect pests and opportunistic fungi pathogens. Tricoderma is a fungi that feeds off pathogenic root rot and damping off fungi; it also stimulates the plants root and immune systems, which helps the plant to fight off fungi attacks. Mycorrhizae is a beneficial fungi which colonizes the root surface; this helps keep the pathogenic fungi from getting a foot hold on the plant’s root system. Mycorrhizae also helps the plant take up nutrients that are out of reach of the plant’s roots. All of these beneficial organisms feed off plant exudes from the root system and some nutrients in the growing medium.
How to use beneficals in your system.
To get the maximum benefit from beneficial micro-organisms, the gardener should always provide food for these beneficals. Providing these organisms with food (e.g.: Liquid Karma, Earth Juice Catalyst and Sweet) ensures that they will grow and multiply in your garden, however, the harmful micro-organisms will also use this food to multiply. This is one of the reasons why your water and growing medium should be well oxygenated. Harmful pathogens tend to thrive in anaerobic conditions whereas beneficial organisms thrive in aerobic conditions.
For clones and seedlings – Use both Hydroguard (15ml per gallon) and Rhizotonic (15ml per gallon). These two products can be used in clone machines, rockwool cubes and Rapid Rooters. The Hydroguard contains two bacillus strains which secrete anti-biotics which will fight off root rot and damping-off pathogens. The Rhizotonic will help your young plants develop vigorous, healthy, strong roots; it will also provide the bacillus with some food. If your seedlings or clones develop a stem rot Hydroguard can be painted on the affected area (1 part Hydroguard 3 parts water).
For plants in soil – Most gardeners who grow in soil will use organic nutrients to feed there plants. Mycorrhizae suits plants that are being fed organic nutrients; chemical nutrients, especially when the concentration builds up in the growing medium, will destroy the Mycorrhizae. It is best to apply Mycorrhizae into the soil before planting (1 teaspoon of Rooters Mycorrhizae per gallon of soil). Bacillus and tricoderma can also be used on plants grown in soil. One pouch of Subculture should be mixed into 8 cubic feet of soil. A maintenance application should be reapplied every 4-6 weeks at 1 teaspoon per 10 gallons of water. A weekly application of Liquid Karma or Earth Juice Catalyst will help keep your plants healthy and also provide the beneficial organisms with essential foods to keep them multiplying. This program can also be used for plants being grown in coco fiber that are fed organic nutrients.
For hydroponic systems – Mycorrhizae does not do well in hydroponic systems as it is sensitive to the nutrients that are used for hydroponics. For hydroponic systems it is best to use Subculture or Hydroguard. Both these products contain bacillus strains which are well suited to hydroponics even in systems that have high salt contents. Subculture should be applied at a rate of 1 teaspoon per 10 gallons of water/nutrient solution (1 pouch per 50 gallons). The first application of Hydroguard should be 15ml per gallon and maintenance applications at 5-10ml per gallon of nutrient solution. For coco fiber, rockwool and Ready-Gro mediums, both Hydroguard and Subculture should be reapplied 21 days after first application and thereafter every 21 days. For hydroponic systems that use Hydroton rocks, perlite, NFT or aeroponics, the Subculture and Hydroguard should be reapplied every 7 days.
Foliar Sprays – Both Hydroguard and Subculture can be used as a foliar spray to help control mildew that attack the leaves, stems, flowers and fruits of plants. Serenade is another product which contains only Bacillus subtilus. These bacteria will effectively control most leaf fungi pathogens.
Fungus Gnats – Bacillus thuringienses sub-species israelensis (the active ingredient in Gnatrol) is used for the control of fungus gnats. This bacteria produces a parasporal crystal which is toxic to the larvae of fungus gnats.
Please note: Even though you are dealing with a biological organism, always wash your hands with an anti-bacterial soap when finished, and when using these products as a foliar spray use a mask. Keep these products away from children and animals.
(note: this information is for educational purposes only.....but if you want to see a killer website that i like, go here:
http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/static/a...05_bacteria.asp
and you will find the source of the above information and funny bacterium illustration....thanks hempyhog....;-)
-- IM Boggled replies
The term mycorrhizal comes from the Latin words myco, meaning fungus, and rhiza, meaning root. Mycorrhizal fungi are fungi that have developed a symbiotic (mutually beneficial) relationship with the root systems of living plants, from garden vegetables all the way up to Old Growth trees. Networks of mycorrhizal filaments envelop the seedling's root structure, greatly extending and enhancing (by a factor of several hundred to several thousand times) the growing plant's water- and nutrient-gathering abilities and protecting the plant from disease.
This is a good and Inexpensive innoculation product
Plant Success Mycorrhizae Tablets
A mixture of 12 species of endo- and ectomycorrhizal fungi, Plant Revolution™ Plant Success™ Tabs are designed to help the gardener or home landscaper promote fast plant and root growth, increase nutrient and water uptake and reduce fertilizer use. Each Plant Success™ Tab consists of millions of spores of the following mycorrhizal species:
Endomycorrhiza
Glomus mosseae
Glomus intraradices
Glomus clarum
Glomus monosporus
Glomus deserticola
Glomus brasilianum
Gigaspora margarita
Ectomycorrhiza
Pisolithus tinctorus
Four species of
Rhizopogon
Exceptionally helpful for those who use commercial potting soils, which are sterilized and therefore devoid of beneficial microorganisms.
Fungi Perfecti, a legal edible mushroom growers supply company, is the apparent manufacturer of "plant success"
http://www.fungi.com/mycogrow/
GrowStuffPlus! stocks it as do others if one googles it.
http://www.growstuffplus.com/IBS/Si...archy/0001.html
"DIEHARD BioRush":
is a dry, water soluble root growth stimulant with nitrogen fixing, phosphorus solubilizing and growth promoting beneficial bacteria packaged in pre-measured, labeled bags for easy use with tank sprayers. Contains humic acid extracts, Trichoderma, soluble sea kelp, yucca plant extracts, amino acids and natural sugars to “energize” the microbial activity in the ground and promote cell division and lateral bud development as well as delay the aging process of plant tissue. Our unique formulation of ingredients affect the permeability of cell wall membranes in roots, improve plant respiration, photosynthesis, promote cell division and lateral bud development as well as delay the aging process of plant tissue. All these factors are well known to provide major benefit to plants promoting vigorous root growth and the overall general condition of the plant environment.
.....
The 1/4 lb. bag makes 25 very "hot" gallons.
Its best to mix/brew/stand seperately and then add splashes to nutrient mixes to innoculate, imho, using this product.
I've used it on various trees and gardens with a wide variety of fruits and vegetables in them and it tends to make a very noticeable difference compared to other gardens not beneficially innoculated.
I plan on growing some giant watermelons in the ground next year to compete in the county fair with, and this DieHard stuff will be one of my secret weapons (along with Guano's).
I have some Carolina Cross watermelon seeds from a 268.8 pounds, 37" long, 49" blossom to stem, 62.5" circumfrence specimen. (In metric lets just call that 122 kilogram, meter long mother "massive".)
Those Heirloom Tomato guys better hang onto there hats 'cause I'm coming to take their Blue Ribbons home too.
Informative post G.P., Thanks for sharing.
--Guineapig comes back
you know we are getting somewhere with IC when i have to go back and use myself as a reference.....way to go IC info gurus!!!
Components Used In DIEHARD™
Mycorrhizal "Cocktails"
I. Mycorrhizae - An estimated 10,000 research studies have been done on mycorrhizae during the past 25
years. Mycorrhizal fungi inoculants have been available to commercial markets only during the past 5
years.
A. Endomycorrhizae - A symbiotic relationship of endomycorrhizal fungi with roots of 90% of plant
species worldwide.
1. Inoculant contains multi strains of live spores of Glomus mosseae, Glomus intraradices,
Glomus fasciculatum, Glomus dussii, Glomus clarum, Glomus deserticola and Glomus microaggregatum.
2. Available in dry form with a shelf live of 18 months.
B. Ectomycorrhizae – A symbiotic relationship of ectomycorrhizal fungi with many tree species i.e.
pines, oaks and select hardwoods.
1. Inoculant contains multi strains of Pisolithus tinctorius and a variety of species of Rhizopogon.
II. Trichoderma and other beneficial fungi- Trichoderma (6 species), Gliocladium virens (2 strains), Trichoderma
harzianum (2 strains), Trichoderma viride (2 strains).
Trichoderma is a recognized beneficial fungus that is used to compete with the food source and space of
negative causing fungi in the soil. Spores of the fungus, when mixed with soils, germinate and grow around
plant roots depriving negative fungi the living space and food source thereby causing death to them, therefore
preventing fungal diseases.
Our KEY MICROBIAL COMPONENTS include:
BACILLUS: (32 SPECIES)
Bacillus azotofixans (2 strains): nitrogen fixation
Bacillus azotoformans (3 strains): nitrogen fixation, plant growth hormones
Bacillus megaterium (2 strains): decomposition, nutrient cycling
Bacillus polymyza (5 strains): anti-fungal, nitrogen fixation, nutrient cycling
Bacillus thuringiensis (2 strains): entomopathogenic
Bacillus licheniformis (6 strains): enzymes, plant growth hormones, soil structure
Bacillus pumulis (2 strains): decomposition, nutrient cycling
Bacillus subtilla (10 strains): anti-fungal
PSUEDOMONAS: (2 SPECIES)
Psuedomonas aureofaceans (2 strains): anti-fungal
STREPTOMYCES : (2 SPECIES)
Streptomyces lydicus (2 strains): anti-fungal
TRICHODERMA (6 SPECIES)
Trichoderma harzianum (2 strains): anti-fungal, plant growth hormones
Trichoderma viride (2 strains): anti-fungal, plant growth hormones
Gliocladium virens (2 strains): anti-fungal
here is an addendum to today's lecture. below you will find a description of the different types of endomycorrhizae species...
Characteristics of Endo Species Used:
Glomus dussii
Adapted to a large range of pH from 4,5 to 7, and is efficient on plant growth, and
preferably on tropical plants.
Glomus intraradices
Very common throughout the world. Shows disease resistance mechanisms against
Fusarium oxysporum.
Glomus fasciculatum
Adapted for drought conditions in high phosphorus soil. Also very effective in high
salinity conditions and is efficient on plant protection again some pathogenic fungi within
soil.
Glomus deserticola
Adapted for drought conditions, and has shown good agronomical effect under low soil
fertility.
Glomus microaggregatum
Adapted for drought conditions, and can have agronomical effect under low soil fertility.
Glomus clarum
Adapted to acidic pH 5-6, this specie is highly proliferous and can produce large quantity
of external mycelium in the soil and can occupy the rhizosphere.
Glomus mosseae
Adapted to acidic pH 6-8.5, this specie is highly proliferous and can produce large
quantity of external mycelium in the soil and can occupy the rhizosphere.
Sporulation Characteristics of Endo Species Used:
Inoculants
Some strains such as Glomus deserticola, Glomus microaggregatum, Glomus mosseae,
and sometime Glomus intraradices produce clusters of spores very (like a "popcorn ball").
Most of time, Glomus deserticola and Glomus microaggregatum produce clusters with as
many as 500 spores minimum stuck together.
Glomus mosseae produce external sporocarps (5-10 spores inside) or
external clusters of "young spores" and Glomus dussii produce external sporocarps
(containing hundred of very small spores) and also external spores entrapped within the
external mycelium.
Glomus intraradices produce large quantity of INTERNAL spores inside the root
(hundred spores /cm of root can be counted sometime).
All these "natural occurring” sporulation configurations must be considered for the
counting of spores.
Endomycorrhizaes are not Ecto. and this difference must be
considered.
The most important aspect is the standardization of the product and
the efficiency and quality.
All information is provided in good faith and believed to be accurate (their words....awesome job of providing the public with good info!)
Some of the main Beneficials at the Root Zone
Bacillus
Several varieties of Bacillus (i.e Bacillus megaterium) have been found to play a role in the conversion of unavailable forms of phosphates into plant available forms. In natural settings they can provide near 10% of the available phosphorous in the soil solution. With increased levels of plant available phosphorous, Bacillus strains become less effective. However, if the Bacillus can sustain as a back up it may continue to provide hungry blooms with phosphorous if it should become otherwise unavailable or “locked out”. This bacterium is of special interest to organic farmers who incorporate rock phosphate into the growing medium or if introduced through fertilizer teas, preparations, etc. Rock phosphate tends to be mostly unavailable, breaking down into plant available forms over time.
Certain forms of Bacillus are known to inhibit pythium and other pathogens. One of these is bacillus subtilis and is found in Hydroguard .
Mychorhizal Fung
Mycorrhizal fungi are especially effective in providing nutrients to plant roots. These are certain types of fungi that actually colonize the outer cells of plant roots, but also extend long fungal threads, or hyphae, far out into the rhizosphere, forming a critical link between the plant roots and the soil. Mycorrhizae produce enzymes that decompose organic matter, solubilize phosphorus and other nutrients from inorganic rock, and convert nitrogen into plant available forms. They also greatly expand the soil area from which the plant can absorb water. In return for this activity, mycorrhizae obtain valuable carbon and other nutrients from the plant roots. This is a win-win mutualism between both partners, with the plant providing food for the fungus and the fungus providing both nutrients and water to the plant. The importance of mycorrhizae in plant productivity and health has often been overlooked.It has been well documented that mycorrhizal plants are often more competitive and better able to tolerate environmental stress.Mycorrhizal technology has likewise made possible the production of inoculants to significantly improve the survival, growth and establishment of trees and crops.
M y•cor•rhi•zal - The symbiotic association of the mycelium of a fungus with the roots of a seed plant.
Nitrosomonas Bacteria
Species of aerobic bacteria which converts ammonia to nitrite. One of the critical bacteria in nitrogen cycle. Optimum pH range between 6.0 and 9.0, temperature 10oC - 34oC. Will acclimate to changes in water quality, but activity is reduced during acclimation which can lead to a build up of ammonia.
Nitrosomonas eat ammonia, they absolutely LOVE it. They Convert plant available ammonium (NH4) to unavailable nitrite (NO2).
Nitrobacteria
These bacteria convert the nitrite (NO2) resulting from the nitrification above into nitrate (NO3-), an important form of Nitrogen that all plants need.
Streptomyces
Bacteria that secrete a variety of compounds including antibiotics that prevent and control root zone pathogens. A closely related species of Streptomyces produces the antibiotic that we use, streptomycin. Many studies demonstrate the bacteria’s effectiveness at controlling root diseases, and select foliar diseases. An interesting consideration noted in one study is that they will also reduce levels of some nitrogen fixing bacteria in the soil.
Trichoderma
Some species of fungi that parasitize other fungi, such as Trichoderma, have been observed physically attacking and destroying pathogenic fungi. Strains of Trichoderma are found naturally occurring in many soils can play a role in the prevention and control of root pathogens, ultimately providing a healthier soil environment which can lead to higher yields. Some research suggests that the proteins in Trichoderma can degrade chitin, which is a structural component found in pathogenic fungi such as powdery mildew and in insects.
Some innovative propagation materials are inoculated with strains of Trichoderma.Many forms of coco coir contain it naturally. CANNA's Coco Growing Media is innoculated with it. If a healthy root environment is maintained, the bacteria will continue to colonize the roots and multiply in the growing media. The trichoderma help to form a protective layer around the root system, helping to fend off invading pathogens, etc.
Root Health and Pathogen Control
In hydroponics we can promote a plant's rhizosphere capability by insuring it has the proper minerals, as well as a well aerated root zone to allow for good air and water movement . We also suggest using an organic amendment like Liquid Karma as well as a general enzymatic product like Hygrozyme or SensiZym from Advanced Nutrients that will encourage the proliferation of healthy rhizosphere microbes. You may also wish to use a root stimulator / stress reliever like CANNA Rhizotonic. It is a powerful, organic stress-reliever which stimulates new root development, increases resistance against disease and improves the vigour of plants.
Most root pathogens seem to be opportunistic -that is, they take advantage of weak and/or damaged roots. Thus the best defense is to keep roots healthy in the first place. In the beginning of this FAQ we went over some of the basics, those being temperature and oxygenation. We can also add a silica to the nutrient solution such as Silica Blast. Silica has been shown to greatly reduce plant death, root decay and yield losses caused by root disease. It does this by fortifying plant tissues against attack. The disease may still be present, but it is not able to do damage.
It has been found by numerous studies that plant roots colonized by a mixture of different bacterial and fungal species, are far more resistant to pathogenic attack. Mycorrhizal fungi form an impenetrable physical barrier on the surface of plant roots, varying in thickness, density and fungal species, according to the plant species, plant health and soil conditions. Ideally the beneficial microbes out-compete pathogenic species and form a protective layer on the surface of living plant roots. In soil it is usually only when the beneficial species of bacteria and fungi are killed by continuous soil disturbance and toxic chemicals that pathogenic species have an advantage.
Using Good Microbes to fight the Bad Ones
There are a slew of new beneficial microbial products on the market, and they have a variety of effects ranging from breaking down nitrogen into useable forms to cleaning the roots to warding off negative microbiological pathogens. These good microbes also activate, enrich and stimulate the roots - they help to create beautiful fuzzy white root growth like you have never seen before.
The new array of products on the market can be confusing an misleading. We only sell products that we are familiar with and have personal experience with. Here are some of what we think are best.
Earth Ambrosia / Earth Nectar: a two-part mycorrhizal fungi innoculant - in liquid form
Down to earth mycorrhizal root innoculant: in powdered form for soil or coco
Piranha Piranha colonizes the root zone with 26 beneficial fungi (in powder form for hydro)
Tarrantula Bacterial blend of 57 microorganisms, with 1.4 billion Colony Forming Units per gram
Voodoo juice Liquid solution consisting of five strains of bacterial microbes, one is a nitrogen fixer
Botanicare Hydroguard Water treatment and pathogen supressor made of four benefical bacteria: Bacillus subtilis, Paenibacillus polymxa, Bacillus circulans, and Bacillus amyloliquefaciens.
The Other Route: Keeping the Reservoir Sterile
Some would argue that one of the strengths of hydroponics is its sterile environment, and the notion of exposing growing systems to bacterial and fungal organisms would be self-defeating, if not sacrilegious. These growers rely on sterile growing environments, strong disinfectants and a product like SM-90. Another option is Hydrogen Peroxide. Each of these offer their own protection and benefits. But NEITHER SM-90 or Hydrogen Peroxide works well with organic aditives in the reservoir. They do not work well together and SM-90 has also been known to react poorly with Superthrive.
In a sterile growing environment, your goal is to have a super clean reservoir. This is harder than it sounds. Folks who have been growing in the same area with the same equipment for years might find that they are suddenly having root problems when they never had them before. Or a new grower might begin having problems right from the beginning.
Keeping your reservoir totally sterile can work very well, but once you get a population of icky badness it will keep coming back again and again. Some pathogens such as pythium are almost impossible to get rid of completelely. No matter how many times you sterilize everything with a bleach solution, the problem returns. It can get very frustrating and expensive to constanly be battling. More and more innovative growers are moving toward a more wholistic approach of using good microbes in the reservoir.
Root Rot and Pythium
"Root rot" is a generic name for several common opportunistic waterborne diseases that can seriously affect indoor and outdoor crops year round. "Pythium" is the name of one of these diseases and is also used as a generic term for several different root rot and stem rot fungus species (including Pythium, Verticillium, and Phytophthora, and Fusarium). The term “damping-off” is also often used and usually applies to disease in seeds, seedlings and clones.
Whatever you call them, these diseases attack the roots of a plant and can rapidly infect crops in all stages. Damage includes reduced yields and crop failure. Pythium is particularly damaging in recirculating hydroponic systems as they provide ideal conditions for rapid growth and spread of infectious spores; a single infected plant can breed and send spores to all the plants.
The best thing is to prevent root rot from ever taking hold in the first place. It is an opportunistic disease which means that it is looking for sick, injured or weakened plants. Pythium is almost impossible to 100% eradicate from an infected system; this involves starting completely over (with new parents, containers, equipment, etc). It is probably present even if you don't know it - just waiting for its chance to get in.
“The best preventative measure against Pythium attack is a healthy, rapidly growing plant as this is an opportunist pathogen and will enter at the site of tissue injury or if the plants are overly succulent, weakened or stressed for some reason. Often root damage during the seedling stage as plants are introduced to the hydroponic system is a danger time for Pythium infection. Pythium is of greatest threat during the seed germination and seedling development stage when plants are most vulnerable to attack, and adequate control and elimination of the pathogen during this stage is the best preventative measure of Pythium control in hydroponic systems. Strong healthy plants will develop resistance to Pythium attack during the seedling stage and this will prevent problems at a later stage of growth. “
Dr. Lynette Morgan, Growing Edge Magazine
"Nutrient Temperature, Oxygen and Pythium in Hydroponics"t http://www.hydromall.com/grower/pyth...droponics.html
* How to Avoid a bad case of Root Rot Monitor plants and roots frequently
* Maintain a clean system – change and sterilize reservoir weekly.
* Design your system to combat pathogens
o keep your nutrient reservoir between 68 and 72F to maximize root growth, Dissolved Oxygen levels and inhibition of Pythium. 80 degrees and above will bring on a fast case of root rot.
o Constant aeration – maintaining high dissolved oxygen levels inhibits pathogens and accelerates root growth
o keep a lid on your reservoir to keep plant matter and light out
o Maintain a low pH of 6.2 or less to inhibit pythium growth
* Use prevention!! Use tank additives to give your roots the edge they need to grow strong and healthy!! Check out the Roots and Prevention section.
Bacterial slime and other horrifying nasties
These are not the beneficial bacteria and fungi that we have already spoken about. These bacteria cause cloudy reservoirs, slimy build up, weird reservoir fuzz, gelatin growths and wild pH fluctuations. These are the reservoir monsters.
When these bad microbes are present at high populations and are happily feeding on organic matter, they use up just about all the oxygen in the nutrient solution, suffocating the plants. They release toxic substances as a biproduct of their life cycle. They also suppress the good microbes at the root zone and cause problems with nutrient uptake and plant growth.
Bacteria slime and cloudy reservoirs
Bacteria can make the water cloudy, but tend to produce more of a slime or jellylike, smelly mass in the system.If you have it, you will notice slimy reservoir walls and perhaps an oily slick on the water. Another symptom can be a foamy buildup in the reservoir. If left to their own devices, these bacterial growths will smother the roots, depriving them of oxygen. Some species of anaerobic bacteria thrive in an environment deprived of oxygen and can produce chemical metabolites, such as alcohols, aldehydes, phenols and ethylene, that are toxic to plant roots and to other microorganisms.
Other symptoms of bacterial infections can be fuzzy, cotton like growths, or the growth of fur. Just in case you are wondering, that white fuzzy growth you see at the tip of your roots is desireable. That is not bacteria - That is the good stuff - you should see tiny fine white hairs at thje roots.
All of these nasties require organic matter to feed on. They may be there as the result of a buildup of dead roots and leaves in the root zone, but usually they are the result of adding an organic product to the reservoir. If the conditions are just right, the bacteria will begin to thrive.
One option is to use no organic additives at all and to rely strictly on chemical nutrients based on fertilizer salts. We think a better choice is to continue using organic material, but also using an enzymatic addtive like Hygrozyme that will break down the unwanted organic matter in the reservoir . If you would like to use additives such as bat guano, compost or fish-based products, you might consider run to waste instead of a recirculating system.
What to do if you have a bacterial or fungal infection
You will want to completely clean out your system - if you can, you should remove each plant, rinse it off, perhaps even dip it in an H202 solution. You should trim off any dead roots. you should then clean your entire system using a strong bleach or h202 solution. We suggest soaking everything in bleach for a few hours. You will definately want to soak your pump and any tubing in bleach. Make sure you rinse everything very well before putting the plants back in .
If your plants are damaged, you might want to run the nutrient solution at a lower concentration than usual. We highly recommend using an enzymatic addditive such as Hygrozyme. . You should also run a stress relief additive like CANNA Rhizotonic. We always suggest using Liquid Karma , but if your problem is real bad, you might want to lay off the organics a little bit.
While your roots are really hurting, you may want to foliar feed your plants with Nitrozime or Dutch Master If you haven't already, you should read the section above about inncoulating your system with good microbes.
Keep an eye on your reservoir. Be prepared to clean it out regularly, as soon as any sign of a infections (cloudy water or wild pH fluctuations) occur.
Remember IT IS MUCH EASIER TO PREVENT a pathogenic attack than it is to ddeal with it once it has occured!
The Benefits of Beneficial Organisms - Guineapig and IM Boggled, CC forums circa 3-2006
The effects of micro-organisms on a plant can be profound. These organisms, such as bacillus, mycorrhizae and trichoderma all form symbiotic relationships with the plant and are found in soil. Bacillus is used world wide for the control of loopers, fungus gnats, insect pests and opportunistic fungi pathogens. Tricoderma is a fungi that feeds off pathogenic root rot and damping off fungi; it also stimulates the plants root and immune systems, which helps the plant to fight off fungi attacks. Mycorrhizae is a beneficial fungi which colonizes the root surface; this helps keep the pathogenic fungi from getting a foot hold on the plant’s root system. Mycorrhizae also helps the plant take up nutrients that are out of reach of the plant’s roots. All of these beneficial organisms feed off plant exudes from the root system and some nutrients in the growing medium.
How to use beneficals in your system.
To get the maximum benefit from beneficial micro-organisms, the gardener should always provide food for these beneficals. Providing these organisms with food (e.g.: Liquid Karma, Earth Juice Catalyst and Sweet) ensures that they will grow and multiply in your garden, however, the harmful micro-organisms will also use this food to multiply. This is one of the reasons why your water and growing medium should be well oxygenated. Harmful pathogens tend to thrive in anaerobic conditions whereas beneficial organisms thrive in aerobic conditions.
For clones and seedlings – Use both Hydroguard (15ml per gallon) and Rhizotonic (15ml per gallon). These two products can be used in clone machines, rockwool cubes and Rapid Rooters. The Hydroguard contains two bacillus strains which secrete anti-biotics which will fight off root rot and damping-off pathogens. The Rhizotonic will help your young plants develop vigorous, healthy, strong roots; it will also provide the bacillus with some food. If your seedlings or clones develop a stem rot Hydroguard can be painted on the affected area (1 part Hydroguard 3 parts water).
For plants in soil – Most gardeners who grow in soil will use organic nutrients to feed there plants. Mycorrhizae suits plants that are being fed organic nutrients; chemical nutrients, especially when the concentration builds up in the growing medium, will destroy the Mycorrhizae. It is best to apply Mycorrhizae into the soil before planting (1 teaspoon of Rooters Mycorrhizae per gallon of soil). Bacillus and tricoderma can also be used on plants grown in soil. One pouch of Subculture should be mixed into 8 cubic feet of soil. A maintenance application should be reapplied every 4-6 weeks at 1 teaspoon per 10 gallons of water. A weekly application of Liquid Karma or Earth Juice Catalyst will help keep your plants healthy and also provide the beneficial organisms with essential foods to keep them multiplying. This program can also be used for plants being grown in coco fiber that are fed organic nutrients.
For hydroponic systems – Mycorrhizae does not do well in hydroponic systems as it is sensitive to the nutrients that are used for hydroponics. For hydroponic systems it is best to use Subculture or Hydroguard. Both these products contain bacillus strains which are well suited to hydroponics even in systems that have high salt contents. Subculture should be applied at a rate of 1 teaspoon per 10 gallons of water/nutrient solution (1 pouch per 50 gallons). The first application of Hydroguard should be 15ml per gallon and maintenance applications at 5-10ml per gallon of nutrient solution. For coco fiber, rockwool and Ready-Gro mediums, both Hydroguard and Subculture should be reapplied 21 days after first application and thereafter every 21 days. For hydroponic systems that use Hydroton rocks, perlite, NFT or aeroponics, the Subculture and Hydroguard should be reapplied every 7 days.
Foliar Sprays – Both Hydroguard and Subculture can be used as a foliar spray to help control mildew that attack the leaves, stems, flowers and fruits of plants. Serenade is another product which contains only Bacillus subtilus. These bacteria will effectively control most leaf fungi pathogens.
Fungus Gnats – Bacillus thuringienses sub-species israelensis (the active ingredient in Gnatrol) is used for the control of fungus gnats. This bacteria produces a parasporal crystal which is toxic to the larvae of fungus gnats.
Please note: Even though you are dealing with a biological organism, always wash your hands with an anti-bacterial soap when finished, and when using these products as a foliar spray use a mask. Keep these products away from children and animals.
(note: this information is for educational purposes only.....but if you want to see a killer website that i like, go here:
http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/static/a...05_bacteria.asp
and you will find the source of the above information and funny bacterium illustration....thanks hempyhog....;-)
-- IM Boggled replies
The term mycorrhizal comes from the Latin words myco, meaning fungus, and rhiza, meaning root. Mycorrhizal fungi are fungi that have developed a symbiotic (mutually beneficial) relationship with the root systems of living plants, from garden vegetables all the way up to Old Growth trees. Networks of mycorrhizal filaments envelop the seedling's root structure, greatly extending and enhancing (by a factor of several hundred to several thousand times) the growing plant's water- and nutrient-gathering abilities and protecting the plant from disease.
This is a good and Inexpensive innoculation product
Plant Success Mycorrhizae Tablets
A mixture of 12 species of endo- and ectomycorrhizal fungi, Plant Revolution™ Plant Success™ Tabs are designed to help the gardener or home landscaper promote fast plant and root growth, increase nutrient and water uptake and reduce fertilizer use. Each Plant Success™ Tab consists of millions of spores of the following mycorrhizal species:
Endomycorrhiza
Glomus mosseae
Glomus intraradices
Glomus clarum
Glomus monosporus
Glomus deserticola
Glomus brasilianum
Gigaspora margarita
Ectomycorrhiza
Pisolithus tinctorus
Four species of
Rhizopogon
Exceptionally helpful for those who use commercial potting soils, which are sterilized and therefore devoid of beneficial microorganisms.
Fungi Perfecti, a legal edible mushroom growers supply company, is the apparent manufacturer of "plant success"
http://www.fungi.com/mycogrow/
GrowStuffPlus! stocks it as do others if one googles it.
http://www.growstuffplus.com/IBS/Si...archy/0001.html
"DIEHARD BioRush":
is a dry, water soluble root growth stimulant with nitrogen fixing, phosphorus solubilizing and growth promoting beneficial bacteria packaged in pre-measured, labeled bags for easy use with tank sprayers. Contains humic acid extracts, Trichoderma, soluble sea kelp, yucca plant extracts, amino acids and natural sugars to “energize” the microbial activity in the ground and promote cell division and lateral bud development as well as delay the aging process of plant tissue. Our unique formulation of ingredients affect the permeability of cell wall membranes in roots, improve plant respiration, photosynthesis, promote cell division and lateral bud development as well as delay the aging process of plant tissue. All these factors are well known to provide major benefit to plants promoting vigorous root growth and the overall general condition of the plant environment.
.....
The 1/4 lb. bag makes 25 very "hot" gallons.
Its best to mix/brew/stand seperately and then add splashes to nutrient mixes to innoculate, imho, using this product.
I've used it on various trees and gardens with a wide variety of fruits and vegetables in them and it tends to make a very noticeable difference compared to other gardens not beneficially innoculated.
I plan on growing some giant watermelons in the ground next year to compete in the county fair with, and this DieHard stuff will be one of my secret weapons (along with Guano's).
I have some Carolina Cross watermelon seeds from a 268.8 pounds, 37" long, 49" blossom to stem, 62.5" circumfrence specimen. (In metric lets just call that 122 kilogram, meter long mother "massive".)
Those Heirloom Tomato guys better hang onto there hats 'cause I'm coming to take their Blue Ribbons home too.
Informative post G.P., Thanks for sharing.
--Guineapig comes back
you know we are getting somewhere with IC when i have to go back and use myself as a reference.....way to go IC info gurus!!!
Components Used In DIEHARD™
Mycorrhizal "Cocktails"
I. Mycorrhizae - An estimated 10,000 research studies have been done on mycorrhizae during the past 25
years. Mycorrhizal fungi inoculants have been available to commercial markets only during the past 5
years.
A. Endomycorrhizae - A symbiotic relationship of endomycorrhizal fungi with roots of 90% of plant
species worldwide.
1. Inoculant contains multi strains of live spores of Glomus mosseae, Glomus intraradices,
Glomus fasciculatum, Glomus dussii, Glomus clarum, Glomus deserticola and Glomus microaggregatum.
2. Available in dry form with a shelf live of 18 months.
B. Ectomycorrhizae – A symbiotic relationship of ectomycorrhizal fungi with many tree species i.e.
pines, oaks and select hardwoods.
1. Inoculant contains multi strains of Pisolithus tinctorius and a variety of species of Rhizopogon.
II. Trichoderma and other beneficial fungi- Trichoderma (6 species), Gliocladium virens (2 strains), Trichoderma
harzianum (2 strains), Trichoderma viride (2 strains).
Trichoderma is a recognized beneficial fungus that is used to compete with the food source and space of
negative causing fungi in the soil. Spores of the fungus, when mixed with soils, germinate and grow around
plant roots depriving negative fungi the living space and food source thereby causing death to them, therefore
preventing fungal diseases.
Our KEY MICROBIAL COMPONENTS include:
BACILLUS: (32 SPECIES)
Bacillus azotofixans (2 strains): nitrogen fixation
Bacillus azotoformans (3 strains): nitrogen fixation, plant growth hormones
Bacillus megaterium (2 strains): decomposition, nutrient cycling
Bacillus polymyza (5 strains): anti-fungal, nitrogen fixation, nutrient cycling
Bacillus thuringiensis (2 strains): entomopathogenic
Bacillus licheniformis (6 strains): enzymes, plant growth hormones, soil structure
Bacillus pumulis (2 strains): decomposition, nutrient cycling
Bacillus subtilla (10 strains): anti-fungal
PSUEDOMONAS: (2 SPECIES)
Psuedomonas aureofaceans (2 strains): anti-fungal
STREPTOMYCES : (2 SPECIES)
Streptomyces lydicus (2 strains): anti-fungal
TRICHODERMA (6 SPECIES)
Trichoderma harzianum (2 strains): anti-fungal, plant growth hormones
Trichoderma viride (2 strains): anti-fungal, plant growth hormones
Gliocladium virens (2 strains): anti-fungal
here is an addendum to today's lecture. below you will find a description of the different types of endomycorrhizae species...
Characteristics of Endo Species Used:
Glomus dussii
Adapted to a large range of pH from 4,5 to 7, and is efficient on plant growth, and
preferably on tropical plants.
Glomus intraradices
Very common throughout the world. Shows disease resistance mechanisms against
Fusarium oxysporum.
Glomus fasciculatum
Adapted for drought conditions in high phosphorus soil. Also very effective in high
salinity conditions and is efficient on plant protection again some pathogenic fungi within
soil.
Glomus deserticola
Adapted for drought conditions, and has shown good agronomical effect under low soil
fertility.
Glomus microaggregatum
Adapted for drought conditions, and can have agronomical effect under low soil fertility.
Glomus clarum
Adapted to acidic pH 5-6, this specie is highly proliferous and can produce large quantity
of external mycelium in the soil and can occupy the rhizosphere.
Glomus mosseae
Adapted to acidic pH 6-8.5, this specie is highly proliferous and can produce large
quantity of external mycelium in the soil and can occupy the rhizosphere.
Sporulation Characteristics of Endo Species Used:
Inoculants
Some strains such as Glomus deserticola, Glomus microaggregatum, Glomus mosseae,
and sometime Glomus intraradices produce clusters of spores very (like a "popcorn ball").
Most of time, Glomus deserticola and Glomus microaggregatum produce clusters with as
many as 500 spores minimum stuck together.
Glomus mosseae produce external sporocarps (5-10 spores inside) or
external clusters of "young spores" and Glomus dussii produce external sporocarps
(containing hundred of very small spores) and also external spores entrapped within the
external mycelium.
Glomus intraradices produce large quantity of INTERNAL spores inside the root
(hundred spores /cm of root can be counted sometime).
All these "natural occurring” sporulation configurations must be considered for the
counting of spores.
Endomycorrhizaes are not Ecto. and this difference must be
considered.
The most important aspect is the standardization of the product and
the efficiency and quality.
All information is provided in good faith and believed to be accurate (their words....awesome job of providing the public with good info!)
Some of the main Beneficials at the Root Zone
Bacillus
Several varieties of Bacillus (i.e Bacillus megaterium) have been found to play a role in the conversion of unavailable forms of phosphates into plant available forms. In natural settings they can provide near 10% of the available phosphorous in the soil solution. With increased levels of plant available phosphorous, Bacillus strains become less effective. However, if the Bacillus can sustain as a back up it may continue to provide hungry blooms with phosphorous if it should become otherwise unavailable or “locked out”. This bacterium is of special interest to organic farmers who incorporate rock phosphate into the growing medium or if introduced through fertilizer teas, preparations, etc. Rock phosphate tends to be mostly unavailable, breaking down into plant available forms over time.
Certain forms of Bacillus are known to inhibit pythium and other pathogens. One of these is bacillus subtilis and is found in Hydroguard .
Mychorhizal Fung
Mycorrhizal fungi are especially effective in providing nutrients to plant roots. These are certain types of fungi that actually colonize the outer cells of plant roots, but also extend long fungal threads, or hyphae, far out into the rhizosphere, forming a critical link between the plant roots and the soil. Mycorrhizae produce enzymes that decompose organic matter, solubilize phosphorus and other nutrients from inorganic rock, and convert nitrogen into plant available forms. They also greatly expand the soil area from which the plant can absorb water. In return for this activity, mycorrhizae obtain valuable carbon and other nutrients from the plant roots. This is a win-win mutualism between both partners, with the plant providing food for the fungus and the fungus providing both nutrients and water to the plant. The importance of mycorrhizae in plant productivity and health has often been overlooked.It has been well documented that mycorrhizal plants are often more competitive and better able to tolerate environmental stress.Mycorrhizal technology has likewise made possible the production of inoculants to significantly improve the survival, growth and establishment of trees and crops.
M y•cor•rhi•zal - The symbiotic association of the mycelium of a fungus with the roots of a seed plant.
Nitrosomonas Bacteria
Species of aerobic bacteria which converts ammonia to nitrite. One of the critical bacteria in nitrogen cycle. Optimum pH range between 6.0 and 9.0, temperature 10oC - 34oC. Will acclimate to changes in water quality, but activity is reduced during acclimation which can lead to a build up of ammonia.
Nitrosomonas eat ammonia, they absolutely LOVE it. They Convert plant available ammonium (NH4) to unavailable nitrite (NO2).
Nitrobacteria
These bacteria convert the nitrite (NO2) resulting from the nitrification above into nitrate (NO3-), an important form of Nitrogen that all plants need.
Streptomyces
Bacteria that secrete a variety of compounds including antibiotics that prevent and control root zone pathogens. A closely related species of Streptomyces produces the antibiotic that we use, streptomycin. Many studies demonstrate the bacteria’s effectiveness at controlling root diseases, and select foliar diseases. An interesting consideration noted in one study is that they will also reduce levels of some nitrogen fixing bacteria in the soil.
Trichoderma
Some species of fungi that parasitize other fungi, such as Trichoderma, have been observed physically attacking and destroying pathogenic fungi. Strains of Trichoderma are found naturally occurring in many soils can play a role in the prevention and control of root pathogens, ultimately providing a healthier soil environment which can lead to higher yields. Some research suggests that the proteins in Trichoderma can degrade chitin, which is a structural component found in pathogenic fungi such as powdery mildew and in insects.
Some innovative propagation materials are inoculated with strains of Trichoderma.Many forms of coco coir contain it naturally. CANNA's Coco Growing Media is innoculated with it. If a healthy root environment is maintained, the bacteria will continue to colonize the roots and multiply in the growing media. The trichoderma help to form a protective layer around the root system, helping to fend off invading pathogens, etc.
Root Health and Pathogen Control
In hydroponics we can promote a plant's rhizosphere capability by insuring it has the proper minerals, as well as a well aerated root zone to allow for good air and water movement . We also suggest using an organic amendment like Liquid Karma as well as a general enzymatic product like Hygrozyme or SensiZym from Advanced Nutrients that will encourage the proliferation of healthy rhizosphere microbes. You may also wish to use a root stimulator / stress reliever like CANNA Rhizotonic. It is a powerful, organic stress-reliever which stimulates new root development, increases resistance against disease and improves the vigour of plants.
Most root pathogens seem to be opportunistic -that is, they take advantage of weak and/or damaged roots. Thus the best defense is to keep roots healthy in the first place. In the beginning of this FAQ we went over some of the basics, those being temperature and oxygenation. We can also add a silica to the nutrient solution such as Silica Blast. Silica has been shown to greatly reduce plant death, root decay and yield losses caused by root disease. It does this by fortifying plant tissues against attack. The disease may still be present, but it is not able to do damage.
It has been found by numerous studies that plant roots colonized by a mixture of different bacterial and fungal species, are far more resistant to pathogenic attack. Mycorrhizal fungi form an impenetrable physical barrier on the surface of plant roots, varying in thickness, density and fungal species, according to the plant species, plant health and soil conditions. Ideally the beneficial microbes out-compete pathogenic species and form a protective layer on the surface of living plant roots. In soil it is usually only when the beneficial species of bacteria and fungi are killed by continuous soil disturbance and toxic chemicals that pathogenic species have an advantage.
Using Good Microbes to fight the Bad Ones
There are a slew of new beneficial microbial products on the market, and they have a variety of effects ranging from breaking down nitrogen into useable forms to cleaning the roots to warding off negative microbiological pathogens. These good microbes also activate, enrich and stimulate the roots - they help to create beautiful fuzzy white root growth like you have never seen before.
The new array of products on the market can be confusing an misleading. We only sell products that we are familiar with and have personal experience with. Here are some of what we think are best.
Earth Ambrosia / Earth Nectar: a two-part mycorrhizal fungi innoculant - in liquid form
Down to earth mycorrhizal root innoculant: in powdered form for soil or coco
Piranha Piranha colonizes the root zone with 26 beneficial fungi (in powder form for hydro)
Tarrantula Bacterial blend of 57 microorganisms, with 1.4 billion Colony Forming Units per gram
Voodoo juice Liquid solution consisting of five strains of bacterial microbes, one is a nitrogen fixer
Botanicare Hydroguard Water treatment and pathogen supressor made of four benefical bacteria: Bacillus subtilis, Paenibacillus polymxa, Bacillus circulans, and Bacillus amyloliquefaciens.
The Other Route: Keeping the Reservoir Sterile
Some would argue that one of the strengths of hydroponics is its sterile environment, and the notion of exposing growing systems to bacterial and fungal organisms would be self-defeating, if not sacrilegious. These growers rely on sterile growing environments, strong disinfectants and a product like SM-90. Another option is Hydrogen Peroxide. Each of these offer their own protection and benefits. But NEITHER SM-90 or Hydrogen Peroxide works well with organic aditives in the reservoir. They do not work well together and SM-90 has also been known to react poorly with Superthrive.
In a sterile growing environment, your goal is to have a super clean reservoir. This is harder than it sounds. Folks who have been growing in the same area with the same equipment for years might find that they are suddenly having root problems when they never had them before. Or a new grower might begin having problems right from the beginning.
Keeping your reservoir totally sterile can work very well, but once you get a population of icky badness it will keep coming back again and again. Some pathogens such as pythium are almost impossible to get rid of completelely. No matter how many times you sterilize everything with a bleach solution, the problem returns. It can get very frustrating and expensive to constanly be battling. More and more innovative growers are moving toward a more wholistic approach of using good microbes in the reservoir.
Root Rot and Pythium
"Root rot" is a generic name for several common opportunistic waterborne diseases that can seriously affect indoor and outdoor crops year round. "Pythium" is the name of one of these diseases and is also used as a generic term for several different root rot and stem rot fungus species (including Pythium, Verticillium, and Phytophthora, and Fusarium). The term “damping-off” is also often used and usually applies to disease in seeds, seedlings and clones.
Whatever you call them, these diseases attack the roots of a plant and can rapidly infect crops in all stages. Damage includes reduced yields and crop failure. Pythium is particularly damaging in recirculating hydroponic systems as they provide ideal conditions for rapid growth and spread of infectious spores; a single infected plant can breed and send spores to all the plants.
The best thing is to prevent root rot from ever taking hold in the first place. It is an opportunistic disease which means that it is looking for sick, injured or weakened plants. Pythium is almost impossible to 100% eradicate from an infected system; this involves starting completely over (with new parents, containers, equipment, etc). It is probably present even if you don't know it - just waiting for its chance to get in.
“The best preventative measure against Pythium attack is a healthy, rapidly growing plant as this is an opportunist pathogen and will enter at the site of tissue injury or if the plants are overly succulent, weakened or stressed for some reason. Often root damage during the seedling stage as plants are introduced to the hydroponic system is a danger time for Pythium infection. Pythium is of greatest threat during the seed germination and seedling development stage when plants are most vulnerable to attack, and adequate control and elimination of the pathogen during this stage is the best preventative measure of Pythium control in hydroponic systems. Strong healthy plants will develop resistance to Pythium attack during the seedling stage and this will prevent problems at a later stage of growth. “
Dr. Lynette Morgan, Growing Edge Magazine
"Nutrient Temperature, Oxygen and Pythium in Hydroponics"t http://www.hydromall.com/grower/pyth...droponics.html
* How to Avoid a bad case of Root Rot Monitor plants and roots frequently
* Maintain a clean system – change and sterilize reservoir weekly.
* Design your system to combat pathogens
o keep your nutrient reservoir between 68 and 72F to maximize root growth, Dissolved Oxygen levels and inhibition of Pythium. 80 degrees and above will bring on a fast case of root rot.
o Constant aeration – maintaining high dissolved oxygen levels inhibits pathogens and accelerates root growth
o keep a lid on your reservoir to keep plant matter and light out
o Maintain a low pH of 6.2 or less to inhibit pythium growth
* Use prevention!! Use tank additives to give your roots the edge they need to grow strong and healthy!! Check out the Roots and Prevention section.
Bacterial slime and other horrifying nasties
These are not the beneficial bacteria and fungi that we have already spoken about. These bacteria cause cloudy reservoirs, slimy build up, weird reservoir fuzz, gelatin growths and wild pH fluctuations. These are the reservoir monsters.
When these bad microbes are present at high populations and are happily feeding on organic matter, they use up just about all the oxygen in the nutrient solution, suffocating the plants. They release toxic substances as a biproduct of their life cycle. They also suppress the good microbes at the root zone and cause problems with nutrient uptake and plant growth.
Bacteria slime and cloudy reservoirs
Bacteria can make the water cloudy, but tend to produce more of a slime or jellylike, smelly mass in the system.If you have it, you will notice slimy reservoir walls and perhaps an oily slick on the water. Another symptom can be a foamy buildup in the reservoir. If left to their own devices, these bacterial growths will smother the roots, depriving them of oxygen. Some species of anaerobic bacteria thrive in an environment deprived of oxygen and can produce chemical metabolites, such as alcohols, aldehydes, phenols and ethylene, that are toxic to plant roots and to other microorganisms.
Other symptoms of bacterial infections can be fuzzy, cotton like growths, or the growth of fur. Just in case you are wondering, that white fuzzy growth you see at the tip of your roots is desireable. That is not bacteria - That is the good stuff - you should see tiny fine white hairs at thje roots.
All of these nasties require organic matter to feed on. They may be there as the result of a buildup of dead roots and leaves in the root zone, but usually they are the result of adding an organic product to the reservoir. If the conditions are just right, the bacteria will begin to thrive.
One option is to use no organic additives at all and to rely strictly on chemical nutrients based on fertilizer salts. We think a better choice is to continue using organic material, but also using an enzymatic addtive like Hygrozyme that will break down the unwanted organic matter in the reservoir . If you would like to use additives such as bat guano, compost or fish-based products, you might consider run to waste instead of a recirculating system.
What to do if you have a bacterial or fungal infection
You will want to completely clean out your system - if you can, you should remove each plant, rinse it off, perhaps even dip it in an H202 solution. You should trim off any dead roots. you should then clean your entire system using a strong bleach or h202 solution. We suggest soaking everything in bleach for a few hours. You will definately want to soak your pump and any tubing in bleach. Make sure you rinse everything very well before putting the plants back in .
If your plants are damaged, you might want to run the nutrient solution at a lower concentration than usual. We highly recommend using an enzymatic addditive such as Hygrozyme. . You should also run a stress relief additive like CANNA Rhizotonic. We always suggest using Liquid Karma , but if your problem is real bad, you might want to lay off the organics a little bit.
While your roots are really hurting, you may want to foliar feed your plants with Nitrozime or Dutch Master If you haven't already, you should read the section above about inncoulating your system with good microbes.
Keep an eye on your reservoir. Be prepared to clean it out regularly, as soon as any sign of a infections (cloudy water or wild pH fluctuations) occur.
Remember IT IS MUCH EASIER TO PREVENT a pathogenic attack than it is to ddeal with it once it has occured!
konstantgrdnr
Member
Ono Nadagin
Active member
Edit.. sorry posted this in the wrong thread... still interesting
some really interesting stuff on this site
http://www.organicsalive.org/bio_tech.php
some really interesting stuff on this site
http://www.organicsalive.org/bio_tech.php
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G
Guest
I have cultured theese spores with a small bag of jeffs potting mix, molassis(un sulphered) a five gallon bucket a airpump some b vitamines and i got a bucket of threads. and some EWC. This is far superior to using soil with spores. Every pot gets a dose at every watering.This culture can be kept continously.BTW i used unsulphered molassas because I was concerned of the fungus killing properties of sulpher.
G
Guest
Great info!
Everybody should be making their own, it's so easy. Another way is to add Carboload and Organic-B from AN. Mix with tarantula, piranha, voodoo juice and make expensive products last for a long time. Just keep the solution oxygenated with a medium that gives lots of surface area such as lava rock.
Anybody know if these BB, BF, Enzymes, B vitamins etc. are safe for fish in an aquaponic setup?
Everybody should be making their own, it's so easy. Another way is to add Carboload and Organic-B from AN. Mix with tarantula, piranha, voodoo juice and make expensive products last for a long time. Just keep the solution oxygenated with a medium that gives lots of surface area such as lava rock.
Anybody know if these BB, BF, Enzymes, B vitamins etc. are safe for fish in an aquaponic setup?
alphacat
Member
re: ORMUS nutrients and Mycorrhizal Fungi:
It's claimed that these recently discovered compounds boost beneficial fungi growth, among other things...
http://www.nexusmagazine.com/articles/Ormus.html
and here @ ICMag at: http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=52387
It's claimed that these recently discovered compounds boost beneficial fungi growth, among other things...
http://www.nexusmagazine.com/articles/Ormus.html
and here @ ICMag at: http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=52387
NO SALTS WHATSOEVER
NO SALTS WHATSOEVER
just a tip 4 all u hydro growers out there who r using micro beasties in your medium .MAKE SURE every fertilizer and additive you use contains no manmade salts whatsoever.pay attentin this is the info Advanced nutes would never ever want you to find out. Any and all additives containing ANY man made salts will swiftly kill ALL of your microherd you have worked so hard(and paid so much money to acheive) This includes ANY ph up and down products even if it says organic on the label .So by all means keep wasting your hard earned by slaughtering your beasties Mike at Advanced nutes will love you for it.
NO SALTS WHATSOEVER
just a tip 4 all u hydro growers out there who r using micro beasties in your medium .MAKE SURE every fertilizer and additive you use contains no manmade salts whatsoever.pay attentin this is the info Advanced nutes would never ever want you to find out. Any and all additives containing ANY man made salts will swiftly kill ALL of your microherd you have worked so hard(and paid so much money to acheive) This includes ANY ph up and down products even if it says organic on the label .So by all means keep wasting your hard earned by slaughtering your beasties Mike at Advanced nutes will love you for it.
TNJed
Member
So, I bought a bottle of the beneficial bacteria at the local aquarium store for ten bucks. Is it the same stuff, essentially, as the expensive stuff at the hydro store? Furthermore, should I even bother since I use PBP(which isn't totally organic) and ph up and down? Just curious...
K
kokua
tnjed...I dunno about that. Properly diluted pH up and down are ok I suppose in small enought amounts...but salt nutrients can reak havok on your beneficials.
Have you ever poured table salt on a slug? The slug turns into ooze because a "diffusional gradient" (concentration difference) exsists between the liquid inside the slug and the salt outside of the slug. In most natural processes when a diffusional gradient(concentration difference) is present, the solution seeks a state of equilibrium, meaning that the concentrations on the inside and the outside should be the same. The concentration of salt inside the slug is much less than the concentration of the pure salt on the outside of the slug. The cell membranes of the slug are designed to keep the nutrients and minerals inside but can pass water through the membranes. So the water inside of the slug passes through the cell membranes of the slug and tries to dilute the salt concentration on the outside of the slug. The movement of the water from the inside of the slug to the outside dehydrates the slug and the slug dies...
The same thing happens with your beneficials everytime you apply salt based ferts to you soil....major desiccation and death.
Have you ever poured table salt on a slug? The slug turns into ooze because a "diffusional gradient" (concentration difference) exsists between the liquid inside the slug and the salt outside of the slug. In most natural processes when a diffusional gradient(concentration difference) is present, the solution seeks a state of equilibrium, meaning that the concentrations on the inside and the outside should be the same. The concentration of salt inside the slug is much less than the concentration of the pure salt on the outside of the slug. The cell membranes of the slug are designed to keep the nutrients and minerals inside but can pass water through the membranes. So the water inside of the slug passes through the cell membranes of the slug and tries to dilute the salt concentration on the outside of the slug. The movement of the water from the inside of the slug to the outside dehydrates the slug and the slug dies...
The same thing happens with your beneficials everytime you apply salt based ferts to you soil....major desiccation and death.
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G
Guest
We need to find someone with a kickass microscope...
snottyp
Member
if you can ever get your hands on worm castings or local fresh compost make a little tea and just add enough to the res to get all the good local micorrhizal around your roots and it will help protect them from local pathogens that will enevidably float and be carried into your room. boyE!
snottyp
Member
as for going out and actually buying dried beneficials iv heard time and time again its just not worth it. even if there are dorment spores, the bulk of what your buying is dead. the best way to get your water to come alive is to introduce fresh active forms of beneficials (iam not saying go shovel in some dirt from your backyard) but you should think about investing in maken some compost or at least looking around for some worm castings. also, the only hope of actually keeping a health rhizosphere under your plants is to stay off the chemi ferts. if your thinking this far into your grow you should starting thinking organic otherwise forget about the living things and keep throwing salt into your plants. dont forget that all beneficials live in the same environment as your oxygen loving roots so throw in more stones to get more little guys.
go org. or go home
go org. or go home
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G
Guest
tag - this is good stuff, I need to read compleatly
G
Guest
Verite said:
EA/En is incredible stuff, my mums luv it!
Verite said:
Plant Success also has it in a Black Powder form, water soluble-- I use that also--
