My ph appears too low at the moment, ....

[moose eater]

Thanks h.h. Still have 'Miles of Aisles' here, Joni & Tom Scott, on Lp. A fine, fine piece of music.

I've liked bat shit for a long time now (over 25 years; back when what I got was more reliable/authentic). It was purported to typically be closer to ~neutral ph, relatively reasonably fast release in contrast to some organic amendments, made a nice tea, good mixer with the dirt, etc.

Then much of it changed in quality/content. Year after year of hundreds of thousands of supposedly conscientious hippies across America and Europe indirectly paying some 2nd or 3rd world folks to enter caves on peasants' wages, to dig out the findings there.

Then reports of shortages of decent bat poo, causing a moment or 2 of contemplation.. How does the world run low on decent, accessible bat shit?

Used to wonder in my naiveté' how they get bats to shit different nutrient properties; different feeds? Were they feeding wild bats different food, or were they caged bats, living in servitude to produce excrement?

Then I found that the difference in N versus P-oriented bat poo had more to do with age of the shit, like anything else we toss in our compost, shedding what it reveals easiest first, and transitioning with age. That was why my better ^P bat shit back then looked like, and felt like, crumbled sand stone, and the ^N bat shit typically had way more microbes in it, back in the day, causing ^N veg teas to froth like they were going to turn into the swamp monster eventually.

Now I just try to find bat guano that's -actually- bat guano, with relatively respectable numbers, and the nutrient array I'm needing!! ;^>)

 

[moose eater]

OK, I surrender to Rico's and Burn1's approach. I'll let the roots and the mix have a private discussion, which I'll try to ignore for a bit.

I just upped the garden lime I'd referenced to 22.5 TBSP (a local product by the way, which I'm also, once again, now a bit skeptical of...), decreased the dolomite back down to slightly less than 5 TBS, and initially discontinued the Lilly Miller Super Sweet altogether.

On top of that, I decreased my acidic-testing gypsum from 3/4 cup to 2/3 cup.

Wet AND dry, I got, initially, about a 5.5+, then said "screw it!", and tossed in 3 TBSP of the Super Sweet to the mix; a relatively known, reliable commodity, despite it being older than at least one of my kids. It came out just below a 6.

Pardon me... but.. WTF!!

So, I'll be testing the local 'garden lime' product by itself, and looking for another bag of garden lime with same numbers, but from a different source, and see what gives.

In the interim, I'm simply potting plants into their larger, final, Classic 2000's, and trying not to get any more warped by this whole misadventure than I already am.

Well-reviewed guano is on the way & coming soon, though.

------------------------

Commander Cody's past experiences with remotely similar circumstances.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqu0EVxbwXw

 

[moose eater]

Tested the garden lime; it's 8+. Color me befuddled.

Some place in this mix is one acidic anchor of an amendment, slow to react to alkalinity or neutralizing agents.. Damned if I know what it is..

 

[YukonKronic]

Could try making/buying bio char.... it tends to bring ph up as well as adding to tilth and CEC.... rock dust is also decent enough option if it’s micronized. I also use Calcium carbonate every couple cycles or so. My approach has been to let soil come out at 7 or higher ph and then water with ph 6.7 if it’s closer to 7 or maybe 6.5 if it’s higher. Between cover crops and worms cycling and mixing and the watering it usually settles down after a couple weeks.

I used to add bone meal every cycle but my oldest box is now a bit hot so I’m really concentrating on letting biology and time set my soil up in the right range and then relying on CEC and constant inputs of canna waste to give enough food.. I do still put thin layers of rock dust (I can harvest locally ) on top of mulch every two or three cycles at least.

Last time I bothered checking soil ph was 7.2 in the older box... I pushed the rock dust and Calcium carbonate and added a little extra B last run to try and boost Calcium cycle... it was fine for plants that liked eating but fried a GT a little... newer box that I’ve been more careful with was 6.8...

 

[moose eater]

Thanks YK.

I've stepped back on the garden lime to 20 TBSP (1-1/4 cup) currently, 1 TBSP Super Sweet, and just under 5 TBSP of my older more reliable dolomite, of which I have a small stash that had gotten damp, so I'm having to pulverize it a bit to use it, but it's working fine..

I have a bit of fine-grade rock dust, and there's 'some' in the bokashi bran I'm using in reduced amounts, due to the salts they put in it.

The (Greenhouse) Super Lemon Haze has been in the current mix (mostly, with slightly less lime) for the longest, and looking -quite- happy. But they're easy keepers. Have always liked that; potent plant with moderate production capacity, and easy to clone as well as to grow.

I got sluggish, thus there was a bit of a break between batches, so some of the SLH, as well as the (SSB) California Indica, have had roots in the new mix for different lengths of time.

The Ghost Train Haze #1 is the only one still in the older less-healthy mix, and the only one that was/is showing light fading at the top, newer leaves/branches. The others didn't get that way in the same mix, for almost as long a time.

Moms all seem relatively content, but need to get them into the newer mix, as well, with slight adjustments to N & P; raising N a bit for their veg state, while slightly lowering P; maybe lowering K just a bit as well a touch..

The new replacement ^P bat guano arrived, from a reputable source, and has the consistency/texture of the ^P guano I used to get, ~18-23 years ago. Claims 1 point higher (14) on P than what I replaced, with, I think a value of 1 on N, as opposed to a 0. If true and honest reflection of nute contents, then all's well.

Pushing forward, as I've run out of time to screw around. Thus, late nights have been productive, while planning and prepping for other adventures.

Seems that my motivation/energy for tasks has functioned on a domino-type force for a long time. Needing to do one thing, causes a focus on all of those things I let languish preceding that task.

My wife says I get more stuff accomplished in preparation for a trip, especially over-due projects, with nothing to do with the trip in particular, than any other time.

In this case, soilless mixes, transplanting, locating misplaced tools, etc. They become the hurdle that has to be achieved in order to get ready for the trip. So I'm now in production mode.

Thanks again.

 

[moose eater]

Hey, YK, sorry I failed to reply to a pertinent point in your post yesterday(?); I spent years chasing a neutral ph of 7, as that was what I was initially taught. Then it was 6.8-6.9.

Then last year, in discourse with another member, he referenced the benefits of my working then with a ph of about 6.7, and that was what I had been moving my water to as well, though I had taken for granted that my very hard water was still a 7 to 7.1 out of the well, untreated, and only adjusting ph (Natural Down citric acid) once any goodies were added, and using the citric acid at -VERY -slight rates.

As predicted by others, my ph in the various mixes has risen steadily since planting.

The fact that the alcohol-based reagent (LaMotte's 2221) STILL continues to not ascertain accurately the ph upon mixing the 'dirt', wet OR dry, is more than puzzling, but rather than get stuck in that rut too much more, I'll stick to the mix I've currently adjusted until the next lab analysis tells me otherwise.

Watching the ph rise, I've cut back on the local garden lime to 18 TBSP (1 cup, 2 TBSP) and am holding there, with 1 TBSP Super Sweet, and <5 TBSP of the older dolomite.

Due to lack of time to let the mixes sit this time around, I'm boosting classic 2000 pots after planting, with about 1/3 gallon (~1-1/3 qt.), with a -gallon- of H2O treated with EM-1 at 17 ml, Bio-Ag Ful-Power at about 20 ml, 1-1/4 tsp of Liquid Bone Meal (0-6-0), 2 tsp of (0-0-1) kelp extract (liquid), (as K should be pretty solid, and just using the kelp extract for other purposes), 2 drops Super Thrive 'B' vitamin, and 2 tsp. of 5-1-1 Alaska Fish Emulsion. A modest boost while other shit 'wakes up and gets busy.'

(*Soilless mix is initially gently wetted in the mixer, with another group of items, including, per gallon of H2O, 2 tsp of an ancient stash of GreenLight Root Stimulator, 2 ml Liquid Karma, 2 ml Pro-Tekt, 1-1/2 tsp Gnatrol WDG (I couldn't get the 2.5 gallon jugs of liquid up here any more), 2 drops Super Thrive B vitamin, 1/4-tsp Actinovate (or comparable effective dose of either Myco-Stop or Pre-Stop), and 15 ml of Bio-Ag Ful-Power w/ ~ 15 ml of EM-1. Wetting a total of about 17 U.S. gallons (+/-) of relatively dry aggregate with about 2.5 to 2.6 gallons of the initial 'brew' described.

I've cut WAY back on EWCs last year, after testing 3 brands, of which 2 were yuppie-priced higher end organics, with them testing seriously high in K and Mag. And I haven't had time to follow through on starting my own pyramid-stacked worm buckets under the basement steps; too much to get done, life in disarray at times, etc.

That's the status at the moment. I could post the current list of amendments/additions to the mix as it stands, which is a modified version, after the last testing, but I'll hold off until the next lab results.

Of course, Murphy's Law dictates that as soon as I have this dialed in, one or more components will change re. sourcing, business going bankrupt or closing, etc., and the neighbors a ways away will hear more loud cussing coming from my home again. ;^>)

Whipping up a small, partial (1/3) batch at the moment, to finish off transplanting the girls in the bloom boxes, and I have to say, trying to measure .1 grams of Borax (a full batch of mix calling for .3 grams of Borax) on a triple beam SUCKS re. the degree of inaccuracy. Probably have to break out an old reloading/gun-powder scale and do some grains to partial grams conversions.

 

[moose eater]

I stopped by the garden store yesterday, to see what they had that I'd not yet gotten elsewhere, and I picked up a pouch of more random DTE myco, as well as asking for a price on the Xtreme myco. Nice folks there, and the fellow told me that he had a pouch of the Xtreme myco that had been damaged in the shipping case, and he contributed that to the cause for free; a $25 value(?).

I bought the DTE myco, which I use more liberally in the bulk mix, as opposed to the Great White, which when I remember to use it, I only sprinkle small amounts in the divet into which the roots are being placed. (for which they often want a first born child, as well as a bunch of money).

I spotted a box of DTE gypsum, so at a reasonable cost, I snagged that, intending to do a ph test on it, to contrast to the Epsoma brand I had been using since last year.

Both are granular.

Yes, redlaser, the DTE gypsum tests right at a neutral 7. However, the numbers on the back of the Epsoma brand were 1 point lower on sulfur and calcium than on the DTE (assuming all numbers between the 2 are accurate & honest; not betting MY life on that, btw).

So, there you have it; something is more acidic in the Epsoma brand gypsum than the Down To Earth brand. First person to put their finger on what, exactly, that is, wins notoriety in the trivia club.

Last year's GTH#1 run in organic soil, first time running her.


Edit: As stated in another thread, I don't know how to post pics into a thread such that the image expands, so if a larger, better view is preferred, the pics are available at my profile page, in my album. And they'll all be coming down in several days.

 

[Rico Swazi]

OK, I surrender to Rico's and Burn1's approach.

Good recipes in Burn1's thread
My approach is to start with the minimum and then add if and when needed. I feel you are making it all to complicated and expensive.



Case in point, I did a 9 plant pheno hunt 12-12 from seed a couple years back. Mature compost and garden soil in 3 liter pots fed with comfrey. thats it.

Less is more my brother, look at what Dank frank does with his recipe which is far less involved that what you have going.


I wish you the best my friend, hate to see you spend so much money. Mature compost (vermicompost) will do everything those products will do. Try it and see for yourself if what you have been taught was only to make you lighter in the wallet



Plants doing well I hope?

 

[moose eater]

Thanks, rico.

I could've turned back the clock and gone back to older recipes I have written down here, that produced pretty well, and for which potency was pretty good.

I was hoping to get back to the days of oozing sticky resin that made the flowers adhere to the drying surfaces, as though someone had glued or taped them there.

As I've previously shared, many things have changed in the last couple+ decades; my well water is much harder than what I had when we had a 1500 gal. in-ground water holding tank and 2-3 bills for delivery each month, and the integrity/content/authenticity of organic nutes change too often to definitively rely on purported content.

I've used Dank.Frank's (favorite) recipe a time or 2, didn't let it 'cook' long enough, AND there's the added issue of different sources for the (supposedly) same N-P-K (and secondary and micro-nutes) amendments resulting in vastly different quality in the products some times.

I'm currently waiting on another soilless mix analysis, for which they're doing both Mehlich III acid extraction ("What's in there in totality"), as well as H2O extraction ("What can the plants get at RIGHT NOW?")

I've typically had good enough weed that the compliments and observations, including by established growers, have been flattering, and should've been pleasing to me. But I wanted the uber-sticky results I had back in the days of better amendments, as WELL as maximum production. Perfectionism and a form of greed, in other words. (*Echoes of my long-deceased Hoosier grandmother, and her Depression-era adages about 'being content with what one has,' comes to mind, but wouldn't permit for the improvements I want, either. ;^>).....).

Of interest to me at the moment is that this last batch of mix (which I know right off has somewhat excess N in it, though waiting to see where other nutes are at), has decisively and obviously different outcomes for the 3 varieties currently in bloom in it.

I've fertilized the plants/mix in the Classic 2000 pots 2 x's now since being placed in their final pots (Rare Dankness' Ghost Train Haze #1, Greenhouse's original Super Lemon Haze, and my Dronkers' Sensi Seed Bank 1997 California Indica), with what comes close to the old bat shit tea regimen I used to apply; 2+ cups of the bat guano in a nylon stocking, in about 5 gal. of pre-warmed but otherwise untreated, unfiltered well water, with some Alaska humus and microbe food, as well as 45 ml of EM-1 added to the 5 gal. bucket, then aerated via a relatively stout aquarium pump via air stones, hung on the tubing, with nuts collaring the tube to keep it submerged.

After aerating the tea for a couple days, then adding 2-1/2 cups of tea to the remainder of a gallon of untreated well H2O, and adding ~ 1 tsp of 5-1-1 Alaska Fish Emulsion, and a 1/4 tsp of soluble kelp meal (0-0-17; which was only added to the second of 2 feedings).

All plants in bloom have been on 12:12 for between 3 and 4 weeks, depending on strain, as there was brief delay time between transplanting different plants.

The SLH went ape shit, huge leaves, relatively odiferous at the 3-1/2 week mark, visible early trichs, and limited signs of debilitating excess grub, other than the stretch. The spacing between bud sites is a bit more than I'd like, despite the SLH often not developing continuous colas like the CI, and being prone to forming more rounded sticky buds that feel like Katema Gold hash; a granular-like stickiness to touch. And the SLH pistils are more dense and a shade of green in contrast to the others, but I believe she's typically had that presentation in early to mid-flower.

My (1997 Dronkers Sensi Seed Bank) California Indica (21 year old clone-to-clone momma) is sometimes impervious to fluctuations in extremes; she's forming her typical nice, relatively-tightly spaced colas, nice olfactory output, also with visible early formation of trichs, etc. Leaf size indicates obvious comfort with nute array/levels. But as stated, she's the most tolerant and productive plant I've ever had.

The GTH#1, this go-round, has somewhat undersized, darker leaves (compared to a more perfect run; ph, ^N, or need for more P are all likely suspects in this plant at the moment). But she also has nicely forming 'balls' for early buds at the moment, and the pistils are nice and white, longish, fairly densely clustered for her stage of development, and, though the last of the three strains to go to 12:12, is putting off decent scent. She's always had a bit of the old Juicy Fruit or old-school Bubble Gum scent to her.

So I'm approaching fine-tuning of the mix I have going on.

I had intended (as written earlier) to get into my own worm composting, both to address the ^ K and Mag often found at potentially troublesome levels, even in what is purported to be GOOD commercially available organic EWCs on the market (to include Roots Organic and Wonder Worm), and to reduce costs of the EWCs, but I haven't gotten around to setting up what would amount to yet another experimental project with a new learning curve. That said, I have definitely cut back on the EWCs, though still use them in reduced volume.

Suby has a good EW composting thread here I've looked at in the distant past, and h.h. has given helpful tips in the past as well. But I'm feeling old and tired these days, too.

I'll try and post the pics of the 3 strains in current bloom in the next little while.

A part of my desire in the pursuit re. a truly tuned soilless mix (despite others saying it's like unicorn hunting; a waste of time and effort, and unachievable), was to come up with a well-balanced mix that requires little augmentation for nutes, works with a wider variety of strains, and with a variety of water conditions.

At this time, I've spent maybe $250 or so on soil testing, and if I can come half-way close to that goal, stated above, then a bit more won't kill me.

One irony, however, is that after being a forefront activist toward legalization all these decades, I now have nearly no market left, don't want to reach out to new outlets to put items on the market (getting too old to revisit such sources of worry or risk), so now the Yin & Yang of it is that I am lacking in sufficient sources to vend my wares, don't really want any, but can, on the other hand, now afford to take my time, not feeling like I have to have a crop ready every 'X' amount of time.

So I envision a virtual wall of properly cured, sealed and stored bud in one of my larger upright freezers. I'll consider it a stab at one aspect of my current retirement. ;^>)

Thanks again, and stay tuned for the pics of current developments here. Like the last pics I recently had posted up here, they'll only be up for a limited amount of time. Just how I am where pics of such things are concerned.

Take care.

 

[Rico Swazi]

you are welcome, trying to help out, hope you don't mind me answering inside your post.

Thanks, rico.




I could've turned back the clock and gone back to older recipes I have written down here, that produced pretty well, and for which potency was pretty good.

Reaching for that golden ring, I hear ya but don't fall off the merry go round
I was hoping to get back to the days of oozing sticky resin that made the flowers adhere to the drying surfaces, as though someone had glued or taped them there. Bring back those lazy HAZEY crazy days of summer , the good old days

As I've previously shared, many things have changed in the last couple+ decades; my well water is much harder than what I had when we had a 1500 gal. in-ground water holding tank and 2-3 bills for delivery each month, and the integrity/content/authenticity of organic nutes change too often to definitively rely on purported content.[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]
All the reason more to grow your own 'nutes' like horsetail, nettle comfrey et al. My well is hard with iron but low on nitrates which I am told is better than the other way round.

I've used Dank.Frank's (favorite) recipe a time or 2, didn't let it 'cook' long enough, AND there's the added issue of different sources for the (supposedly) same N-P-K (and secondary and micro-nutes) amendments resulting in vastly different quality in the products some times.

I'm a bit confused on what you mean by different sources
Hopefully Dank.frank will be able to shed some light on this





I had intended (as written earlier) to get into my own worm composting, both to address the ^ K and Mag often found at potentially troublesome levels, even in what is purported to be GOOD commercially available organic EWCs on the market (to include Roots Organic and Wonder Worm), and to reduce costs of the EWCs, but I haven't gotten around to setting up what would amount to yet another experimental project with a new learning curve. That said, I have definitely cut back on the EWCs, though still use them in reduced volume.


The recurring problem I see in your thread is you are relying on store bought items instead of setting up your own vermiculture bins. 7 billion people on the planet bro and it is only gonna get more difficult to find quality in anything at the store.


Do you have a compost pile? You are missing out if you don't.


Suby has a good EW composting thread here I've looked at in the distant past, and h.h. has given helpful tips in the past as well. But I'm feeling old and tired these days, too.

Old and tired here too ... give that thread another look
the helpful tips only go as far as they are implemented IMO.



I'll try and post the pics of the 3 strains in current bloom in the next little while.

A part of my desire in the pursuit re. a truly tuned soilless mix (despite others saying it's like unicorn hunting; a waste of time and effort, and unachievable), was to come up with a well-balanced mix that requires little augmentation for nutes, works with a wider variety of strains, and with a variety of water conditions.
your truly tuned soilless mix will change with time, then what?


At this time, I've spent maybe $250 or so on soil testing, and if I can come half-way close to that goal, stated above, then a bit more won't kill me.

You have spent more on testing than my entire garden this year including seeds and clones. mind blown.



One irony, however, is that after being a forefront activist toward legalization all these decades, I now have nearly no market left, don't want to reach out to new outlets to put items on the market (getting too old to revisit such sources of worry or risk), so now the Yin & Yang of it is that I am lacking in sufficient sources to vend my wares, don't really want any, but can, on the other hand, now afford to take my time, not feeling like I have to have a crop ready every 'X' amount of time.


in vending your wares you will have to account for all the money invested and try to make that up.
Those growers around you that provide a similar product without the expense will have the most market share. this is of course simple economics from a simple minded man so there is that


So I envision a virtual wall of properly cured, sealed and stored bud in one of my larger upright freezers. I'll consider it a stab at one aspect of my current retirement. ;^>)


hope you attain that goal and your freezers (plural) are full!

Thanks again, and stay tuned for the pics of current developments here. Like the last pics I recently had posted up here, they'll only be up for a limited amount of time. Just how I am where pics of such things are concerned.

Take care.

Looking forward to some pics.
hope i don't miss the time window

 

[moose eater]

Thanks again, rico.

The formatting of your answers was/is fine.

What I meant re. Dank.Frank's mix was that I didn't let it sit long enough for nutes to release in more equal manner, and the differences in amendments referred to being able to buy a source of bat guano, steamed bone meal, gypsum, etc. (as examples) in one location and then doing the same 3,000 miles away, and, as I think you agree, essentially (potentially) coming up with very different results in each location.

With my 50-lb. bag of steamed bone meal last year, I don't know that I've -ever- had such an item that proved to be nearly void of a major component of its alleged contents. But there it was.

Someone in one of Slownickel's or growingcrazy's threads stated that he recalled Slow (??) testing some bat shit that reportedly had ZERO, or close to zero bat shit in it. So I no longer necessarily look for the better priced deal in purchasing organic amendments, and am restricting myself to do purchases of only those companies' wares that have a good reputation for their amendments, and from whom the amendments appear to be what I am accustomed to getting from more predictable days.

Yep, the country's willingness to settle for dog shit where products are concerned is at a high, as far as I can see. I have a $100 pair of mid-height hiking sneakers from this Spring; I've had to glue the rubber near the rear side of the shoes, on both of them, at least 4-5 times now. That was before I'd hardly used them, and only about 1-1/2 months into ownership. I figure for the money involved, they ought to come with 2 free tubes of 'Shoe Goo.'

I've never dabbled in comfrey, etc.,, and not sure what all grows around here, other than leaf molds are used by acquaintances and friends in the bush, when they are composting their own soils; often from willow, alder, aspen/balsam polar, etc.

I have a larger compost bin here that we've typically applied to the many raised beds we maintain for veggies and the potato plot.

Anyway, I need to get a family member to come by with his smart phone to take pics for me, as his identifiers are cleared from his phone's OS, and it does decent pics.

Thanks again.

More to come.

 

[moose eater]

Hi again, rico, I will likely see my family member this Sunday, when he can show up, take some photos, and get them on-line for me.

I'll try to send you a PM when I post them. Likely leave them up for several days, along with some that were recently up and then taken back down, as well.

Lowell George

'20 Million Things to Do'

From the 'Thanks, I'll Eat it Here' lp

Have that lp sitting in my archives. need to get a decent turntable with a USB outlet on it. Same for a cassette player. Before they compost in place on the basement shelving.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkLNjHv51ZU

 

[Rico Swazi]

I have a larger compost bin here that we've typically applied to the many raised beds we maintain for veggies and the potato plot.

Interesting.

are you up for an experiment moose?
side by side testing between plants grown in soil from the compost bin and your 'mix'


If I were a betting man, I'd go all in on the compost grown plants doing as well or better than the plants grown in your other soil.


I believe it will help you and others see a bit more clearly that while you can grow plants in an expensive mix, there really is no need when using quality compost.




looking forward to some pics

 

[moose eater]

Thanks again, Rico.

I'll attempt to include some photos of the sunflowers in the main veggie garden this year. They were inadvertently planted by squirrels and birds, from the black oily sunflower seeds we place in the bird feeder near the garden; the birds taking a bite out of the insects outdoors. I have some leaves on the larger flowers that are about 24" across. I'll take a tape measure out when we take the pics tomorrow.

They're not the tallest I've grown, now standing at about 6'. 20 years ago out there, when my garden beds were in better balance, I had a Russian Mammoth sunflower that was over 12' tall, and the guy who used to deliver our water to our holding tank would stand there at the base of the sunflowers, neck bent way back to see the top. I went out one day while he was there in that position; he sounded stoned, saying, w/ slow enunciation, as though someone had slipped him a Quaalude, "I've ne-v-e-r seen one that big!!" I laughed pretty hard.

One of my kids (in elementary school back then) took a leaf into their school, from that plant, and, as we were getting out of the car in the parking lot, a passer-by said, "I KNOW that wasn't grown in Alaska!" I replied that indeed it had been.

I used to make a point of growing basket-ball (and larger) size rutabagas out there; still crisp and tender in the middle; not pithy, etc.

Anyway, the sunflowers, grown from random bird seed, is the only 'crop' in the veggie garden this year. First year in over 20 years that we don't have a HUGE healthy veggie and spud crop happening. Took the year off at my wife's insistence, as we're both older and tired.

So I'll include the pics of the sunflowers tomorrow, if/when my family member is able to show up..

One issue I've had with using outdoor amendments in my indoor garden has been concern re. pests and contamination. Primary reason I haven't used my compost in the canna garden.

Once I'd whipped things as hardy as Fusarium Wilt, etc., I've become apprehensive about adding -anything- that isn't less likely to contain problems. Acknowledging that I've bought organic and other amendments a number of times that seemed to come with thrips and gnats already on-board, as unwanted freebies..

My younger son's grapefruit tree in the living room, in a larger pot, which he 'hatched' from a seed in a Texas Pink grapefruit from the grocery store a few years ago or so, has had root aphids for quite a while. I can knock them back with Azamax (the only thing I use the stuff for any more), but the little ugly (and I mean UGLY) bastards tend to continually come back to some degree or another. Thinking of tossing his tree (and I haven't seen any evidence that it's infected anything more valuable), but it's HIS tree.

I've tried both spinosaid and Azamax on it, and..... those are some truly hardy, prolific breeding mo'fo's. And did I mention UGLY?? ;^>)

Anyway, the deep-fryer is calling my name, with some beer batter-dipped halibut, home-made tartar sauce, and the remnants of a now-oxidizing salad.

Pics tomorrow if all goes well.

 

[moose eater]

Commentary and pics....

Commentary and pics....

As I said I would, below should be several pics (or more) of current events at my hacienda.

All of the pics looking inside boxes/cabinets are current, except for the older GTH#1, that was taken shortly before execution time. That one, and the up-close pics of buds (albeit some of them premature in ripeness) are from last year or so.

The sunflower leaf is from current outside veggie garden, where we planted no veggies this year, located in what has come to be one of my beet beds. The sunflowers have received NO fertilizer this year, and are strictly relying on accumulated organic ferts in the raised beds, to include past use of our compost.

Note the closeness of stems/leaf petioles and, if visible, the thickness of the stalk with the sunflower; the bed had become stout in organic-sourced P & K, to the point of the beets saying a telling "Fuck YOU!!" However, not all plants are the same, as you know, and the random sunflowers, deposited by squirrels and birds, said, "COOL!"

Like with humans, and one person's trash being another's treasures, so it is in the plant kingdom.

I can feed a shit-ton of sulfur to the veggies, in trying to bring the ph back down in the outdoor raised beds, due to the higher Ca Carbonate in my well water. The broccoli puts on sunglasses, shrugs, and says, "What ever, dude," and carries on, with the only real sign of excess Su being that after harvest, when filling a larger cooler with the stuff, when you get to where you're going, the cooler smells like a case of old-style wooden matches.

Other veggies endure that same level of Su treatment, and wince hard, refusing to cooperate there after.

Along that line or issue, as mentioned before, the current cannabis strains in the boxes have all been exposed to more or less the same soilless mix, right down to close measurements of everything, with only slight variations in garden lime application, varying by several TBSP. Yet the differences in color in each, the stretch in each, etc., is notable.

Anyway, I don't think the images in the posted pics will be as large or as clear as they are if you go to my page, and look directly in my album, where they're apt to be much larger and clearer images.





Assuming the posting doesn't change the order of pics, the first pic is of Greenhouse SLH, with the light off, and only the use of a limited flash.

Next pic to the right of that, is the Rare Dankness GTH#1; note the darker green, as she is apparently rebelling to the N that others have become more comfy with as it dissipates.

My all-star senior citizen, stinky as all hell when happy, and productive as a mo'fo', is on the right of that, my Dronkers' Sensi Seed Bank California Indica, from 1997. Still getting by nicely, without a walker or wheelchair.

Below is the sunflower leaf I referenced above and in an earlier post, as well as some close-ups of some buds from a year or so ago, and the original crop (for me) of my GTH#1 in an organic soil that worked well, but for which I wanted greater resin production; not trichs, per se', but resin, as in OIL.

As it was, rolling joints with that set of GTH#1, and using the thinner Zig Zag white, or similar, even after drying, she would soak slowly through the paper. Thus, despite her (GTH#1's) weak knees, her productivity and potency have spared her the final axe. She's a prissy plant that I tolerate because of what she does, aside from having what I refer to as 'weak stem syndrome.'

 

[moose eater]

Additional photos wouldn't fit into the last post, so I had to load them here....




All plants were eventually -definitely- harmed in (after) the shooting of the above photos.

All plants are under individual 315 cmh, and once I get off my ass, will be enjoying the addition of 4 LED wet-rated flood bulbs per box, with an equivalent output of 120 watts each, and using 17 watts in real juice, with 2 bulbs each at 5000k spectrum, and 2 bulbs per box at 3000k.

I just need to fabricate the brackets to hang them in the corners of each box.

And perhaps I need to be 20 years younger, and maybe develop a greater coffee addiction... or something...

 

[moose eater]

Again, the pics above can be seen in larger and more clear format, if you go to my member's/home page, and will be up here for maybe several days, before coming back down again.

 

[moose eater]

Thanks for the input, Rico.

Yes, plunging into home-made base for my mixes would be a new thing for me. As stated, I know others who've done so out of necessity in the bush, but wile I am aware of some of it, I have never done leaf molds, comfrey, etc., on my own.

Today the 3 boxes in bloom received a modest flush with some Yucca extract; I use it for neutralizing salts, etc. Seemed like the thing to do, not wanting to fertilize a 3rd watering in a row with the bat shit tea.. And I need to prep another 5-gallon bucket of aerated bat shit tea, too.

The California Indica is starting to bulk up, and as the nutes diminish in concentration as a result of uptake, she's now losing a day in between watering. Likely the SLH will show this behavior next, then the GTH#1.

I have more strains of existing tried and proven mothers to cut and run, but am trying to only run 3 boxes at a time for now. Less demand (by far) leaves me now doing this more for me than for others, as stated before. There's some obvious Yin & Yang in that.

I have packs of seeds that I haven't tried yet. Home-spun quality strains bred in the bush that offer promise, and which I've smoked some of another's efforts with them; some of them outstanding, many with SLH backgrounds, Goji OG backgrounds, some from mystery seeds (as parents) that came from gifted bags, twice removed, etc.

Then I have maybe 4 varieties of Bodhi's work that I've never popped, and recently received a long-sought-after pack of Satori.

I need to get on all of them.. sooner than not.. Otherwise they amount to more expensive compost.


So that is added into my mix of too much shit to do for my age and time/energy.

At the same time, I have little difficulty finding time to sit here and type out mini-novels/novellas, so there's obviously an issue of prioritization, too.

Anyway, I'll keep this thread updated, and as the 'final cut' nears, maybe put up some more pics. though, as stated, the ones that are currently up, will be coming down shortly.

 

[moose eater]

Thanks for the couple of feed-back opportunities I've received via PM. I appreciate it.

Yesterday around noon, I discovered that my local electrical utility had put the final 'taxing' on one of my older digital timers (an older, 15-20 year old UNCO 2/II timer, the likes of which I swore by for a LONG time. I know they can go bad just through time, but the stresses of gray-outs, flickering, surges during the power coming back on-line, etc., all take a toll, too.

Most items of value here are on surge protectors for that reason, but not ALL of my plug-ins, are, and the timers sometimes go straight to the outlet, which I can solve the same way I have in other locations; with a surge protector that offers 3-6 outlets, & screws directly to the wall outlet, etc.

Anyway, I've known folks to mess with extending the light-time to normal veg hours mid-bloom (or later), in an effort to get more production by 'fooling' the plants. I've never done that purposefully, but by their folly, know that yesterday's 1-time adverse regimen doesn't cause any significant issues, other than a minor disruption.

So I've used my very last back-up timer, need to get several more now, and apologized to the GTH#1 for screwing with her necessary sleep habits.

Anyway, I got back my H2O extraction test from the lab people, re. soilless analysis, as well as the Mehlich III acid-extraction results, too. I'm getting closer, but am still puzzled by the continued presence of very high (as in, wtf??!!) sulfur and sodium, so will be addressing that, as well as decreasing (a bit better than slightly, but not too much) the N, which I already knew was a bit high, increasing the zinc and manganese ever so slightly, and increasing P, knocking back the Magnesium via reducing dolomite by yet another 2 TBS, etc, and inturn increasing the 96% garden lime with very low mag in return...

Not too surprising, other than the Su and sodium issues. Which I can only guess likely/probable sources of at this time, to include my base peat source.. and will also further reduce my already reduced bokashi bran input, now heading down to all of 2 TBSP from 4-5 TBSP..

I had a 63% saturation rate for Ca., and chuckled at their saying this was unacceptable, in contrast to Slow's incessant posting about seeking an 85% saturation rate for Ca, unless I misinterpreted something.. which becomes more and more possible by the day..

Like with the EWCs, I may need to eventually either cease the Bokashi input, or make my own, with less nonsense in it. It's not hard to construct, other than, as with many tings, time and energy.

CI is bulking up very nicely, and none of the strains are showing any significant deficiencies. SLH is a tad leggier than is typical. And GTH#1, aside from her sleep disruption yesterday, appears to have only slightly greater span between bud-sites, and is otherwise her normal, weak-kneed self.

I'll be printing out the lab reports, laying them side-by-side for better interpretation, and then making minor (or moderate in the cases of 1 or 2 amendments) modifications to my last 'recipe.'

Unfortunately, none of this happens at light-speed.

I've reviewed my life based on time between crops, in a similar way as reviewing my lifetime through the years of the many dogs I've been graced by the presence of. All of it is broken into periods relative to the lifetime of the critter in question. Except plants take too long, and dogs die too soon.

More recent pics will be coming down soon, and in a while, newer pics will go up for a short period, as well.

"And so it goes..." (Vonnegut)

 

[Rico Swazi]

So that is added into my mix of too much shit to do for my age and time/energy.

At the same time, I have little difficulty finding time to sit here and type out mini-novels/novellas, so there's obviously an issue of prioritization, too.

Sorry to hear of health problems. cancer is not the end all it was in the past. A good diet, daily exercise and cannabis oil/edibles will greatly add to the quality of life. I have been dealing with a trifecta of different malignancies since a 1985 melanoma diagnosis. Then came prostate in '04 then liposarcoma in '06. I'll be hitting a grand slam if the barrett syndrome ever metastasizes.


I only say this as I believe you may be spending too much time on the internet and not on yourself. It is not your Ph that you should be focused on, its your immune system and your health.


Fuck cancer and getting old
get out there and live your life to the fullest
sending good vibes, thoughts and well wishes your way

live laugh and love til you can't anymore