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My new cab - Female seed NL
- Thread starter I2KanGrow
- Start date
I2KanGrow
Active member
Hey lapa - thanks for stopping-by! Yeah, I'm very happy with the new cab so far. I'm a newbie, this is my 1st hydro project, and only my 2nd indoor grow, out of 3 total grows. My only outdoor grow ended in mold, which frankly, just really sucked. That was a 2 plant grow, but the girls got very large (about 6' - and bushy!) - I lost a LOT on that one!
OK - Today is day 12 since I swapped my MH lamp for HPS, and I ramped the daylight hours slowly, so I'm only in day 8 of 12/12, Here's what the girls look like tonight:
Lotsa growth~
I did my darned-best to try to color-correct for the funky lighting, it's very hard to get a good white-balance under HPS!
I did my 1st. total nute change-out tonight, the roots look beautiful - about 3-ft. long, thick and VERY white. I think overall these girls are the healthiest I've had. I was amazed with the amount of salts in the bottom of my rez - the end of my dump-out looked almost as white as milk from the sediments - is that normal??
OK - Today is day 12 since I swapped my MH lamp for HPS, and I ramped the daylight hours slowly, so I'm only in day 8 of 12/12, Here's what the girls look like tonight:
Lotsa growth~
I did my darned-best to try to color-correct for the funky lighting, it's very hard to get a good white-balance under HPS!
I did my 1st. total nute change-out tonight, the roots look beautiful - about 3-ft. long, thick and VERY white. I think overall these girls are the healthiest I've had. I was amazed with the amount of salts in the bottom of my rez - the end of my dump-out looked almost as white as milk from the sediments - is that normal??
I2KanGrow
Active member
Slow progress - or just impatient?
Slow progress - or just impatient?
Hi Friends:
Well, I'm a couple of weeks into 12/12 & bloom nutes, but I don't have anything near what I'd call budsites:
Don't mind the date on the close-up shot - I missed by 10 days.
So, should I be seeing some bud-action by now (16 days of HPS, 12 days of 12/12)
Something that I think might be making the going-slow, my temps range from 62F to 67F, pretty cool. Would things happen faster if I pulled-out my cooltube, to make the cab warmer?
I'm OK with having a slower grow, I'm in no hurry, especially if I were to yield a better-quality grow with the cooler temps - I just don't want to ruin my girls, ya know?
Slow progress - or just impatient?
Hi Friends:
Well, I'm a couple of weeks into 12/12 & bloom nutes, but I don't have anything near what I'd call budsites:
Don't mind the date on the close-up shot - I missed by 10 days.
So, should I be seeing some bud-action by now (16 days of HPS, 12 days of 12/12)
Something that I think might be making the going-slow, my temps range from 62F to 67F, pretty cool. Would things happen faster if I pulled-out my cooltube, to make the cab warmer?
I'm OK with having a slower grow, I'm in no hurry, especially if I were to yield a better-quality grow with the cooler temps - I just don't want to ruin my girls, ya know?
I2KanGrow
Active member
Still no buddage!!
Still no buddage!!
OK - I'm beginning to get a bit freaked - I've been into 12/12 for 18 days, and no bud growth.
Lots of veg growth - it's getting weird in the cab, I've run out of places to tuck into the screen, so I guess it now goes where it wants to go!
Could someone who knows take a look at this last picture and tell me - could that be bud-sign???????
Still no buddage!!
OK - I'm beginning to get a bit freaked - I've been into 12/12 for 18 days, and no bud growth.
Lots of veg growth - it's getting weird in the cab, I've run out of places to tuck into the screen, so I guess it now goes where it wants to go!
Could someone who knows take a look at this last picture and tell me - could that be bud-sign???????
Debrickashaw
Member
yes, in that last pic it looks like a bud site is forming. but how dark is your dark period? if its not enough that could cause the plants not to switch to flowering
rave420
Member
imho, i'd ramp up the temp to around 76F. 66F is a bit on the cold side for some strains, anything that has sativa in it usually likes it warmer.
I'd give that a go. You have THE perfect setup, grow and you're doing a good job, so i don't see why that thing is taking so long to show some bud development lol.
Also, don't slack on your scrogging. Tie all that cabbage down and only leave the bud sites sticking out.
good luck man!
I'd give that a go. You have THE perfect setup, grow and you're doing a good job, so i don't see why that thing is taking so long to show some bud development lol.
Also, don't slack on your scrogging. Tie all that cabbage down and only leave the bud sites sticking out.
good luck man!
G
guest 77721
It looks to me like you lost control of the screen a while back. The budsites won't show until the stretching is stopped and the shoots are taking off for the light. I would take off the screen, give her a good trim job and put the screen back on.
That happened to me on my last grow and I just took the screen off and moved the plants closer to the light to keep the stretching to a minimum.
The other thing is that the distance between the light and the screen could be closer.
That happened to me on my last grow and I just took the screen off and moved the plants closer to the light to keep the stretching to a minimum.
The other thing is that the distance between the light and the screen could be closer.
I2KanGrow
Active member
We Have BUDSIGN!!!
We Have BUDSIGN!!!
OK - I took Red's advice and cleaned-house, trimmed about a half-bag (plastic grocery bag, that is) of veg growth from my girls, and am rewarded with about 18 nice little buds this evening. I may attack them once more this weekend, trim 'em a bit more, if I get the nerve.
I also took rave420's advice, and pulled the cooltube off, which raises the temps a few degrees. Today's weather, a high of 69.3, and a low of 63.7. Still pretty low - perhaps I'll do a summer grow, when my basement gets warmer?
Just for information - my nutes are @ around 1150ppm (Dyna-bloom & a splash of cal-mag+), pH is hovering between 5.5 & 5.75, and have been rock-solid since the beginning of this grow, and H2O temps are right around 20C (68F)
We Have BUDSIGN!!!
OK - I took Red's advice and cleaned-house, trimmed about a half-bag (plastic grocery bag, that is) of veg growth from my girls, and am rewarded with about 18 nice little buds this evening. I may attack them once more this weekend, trim 'em a bit more, if I get the nerve.
I also took rave420's advice, and pulled the cooltube off, which raises the temps a few degrees. Today's weather, a high of 69.3, and a low of 63.7. Still pretty low - perhaps I'll do a summer grow, when my basement gets warmer?
Just for information - my nutes are @ around 1150ppm (Dyna-bloom & a splash of cal-mag+), pH is hovering between 5.5 & 5.75, and have been rock-solid since the beginning of this grow, and H2O temps are right around 20C (68F)
G
guest 77721
Sweet!!!
itsmysubaru
Member
That is an awesome cab, dude! Can you slow your fan down at all, to raise temps? Better too cold than too hot, right?
I2KanGrow
Active member
Hey - Welcome-aboard itsmysubaru, and thanks for the props!
Well, I turned-off the shaded-pole blower for the cooltube (because I removed the cooltube), and I've got the scrubber shaded-pole blower just barely blowing a puff of air, I'm afraid if I slow it any farther it'll stall.
My basement gets pretty chilly in the winter - ah, well, like you said - could be worse, could be too hot!
Well, I turned-off the shaded-pole blower for the cooltube (because I removed the cooltube), and I've got the scrubber shaded-pole blower just barely blowing a puff of air, I'm afraid if I slow it any farther it'll stall.
My basement gets pretty chilly in the winter - ah, well, like you said - could be worse, could be too hot!
Last edited:
I2KanGrow
Active member
Rez-Rez
Rez-Rez
Hi-All:
In the not-to-distant future, I need to leave my girls to fend for themselves for a week & a day, and since they seem to drink upwards of 1/2-gal/day, and I only have a 5.5-gal rez, I needed to build a rez for my cab-rez (a rez-rez), and a means of pumping water into my cab-rez when it starts to get low. I'm going to explain how I solved this issue - after some bud-porn
The girls are going quite well, I think!
OK - back to the issue @ hand. I'm building a plug that will fit the 2" access hatch I built into the lid of my cab-rez, which consists of:
(plumbing)
8" length 3/4" pvc pipe
6" length of 1-1/2" piece of PVC
1- 1-1/2" PVC coupler, cut in half
1 - 1-1/2" PVC cap
3/8" 90deg. barb connector
3/8" barb "T" connector
3/8" black vinyl tubing
Small statuary pump - Home DePot, Cheap (19 bucks)
2 air stones (to keep my fert water stirred)
a piece of primed-painted steel (as a weight for the pump and airstones)
Rubbermaid tub (my rez-rez)
Hose clamp & some garden hose gaskets, to hold my swith @ the proper depth
(electrical)
2-gang box
2-gang coverplate - holes for switch and outlet
a SPST relay, 12v control coil, contacts rated @ 5 amps 220vac - grainger $3
a 12v power supply
float switch - a Grainger item - like, $6
Misc speaker wire, RCA jacks/plugs
Wire ties, hold-downs
I needed a way to suspend my 1-1/2" PVC pipe into my 2" cab-rez access hole, the coupler is wide-enough to hold it in place.
So I sawed the coupler in half, so that a 2" PVC cap will still fit over the access hole, with the 1-1/2" pipe inside.
I needed to isolate where the water is pumped-into the cab-rez, from the float switch, so I used this barb -
View image in gallery
- I then drilled a hole into my 1-1/2" pvc pipe far enough down to be sure it made it well into my cab-rez, and epoxied the barb in place.
View image in gallery- then sawed-off the outside end of the barb, sanded it to make it look pretty (ehh, and to make it so that it'd fit in the 2" cab-rez access hole!).
I threaded the float-switch wires thru the 3/4" pvc pipe, then epoxied the float switch to the end it, and then drilled 2 holes into the top of that PVC cap you see center-stage. I also lopped-off a 4" piece of vinyl hose to use...
...as a means of connecting to the vinyl hose that goes to the rez-rez. I discovered that when I put the unit together, the water supply hose was getting pinched, so I put a notch into the 1-1/2" pvc pipe, so that it wouldn't get pinched anymore. I couldn't find a 3/8" 90-degree barb, so I bought a tee, and capped-off 1 side, making my own 90-degree barb. Desperation - the father of all invention!!
Here's what the float-switch looks like inside the unit, with everything (the cap & hose) in-place.
OK - before I show you what this looks like in-place, I thought that maybe I should answer the obvious question that comes to mind: Why go thru all of the trouble of making the float-switch nested into the 1-1/2" pvc pipe, nested inside the 2" pvc pipe access port on my cab-rez lid, why not just put the switch into the top of the cab-rez, and drill a hole into the side of the cab-rez to fill it?
My reasoning - I have 4 waterwall airstones inside my cab-rez, she really churns-up a storm! without the benefit of the isolation created by nesting the float-switch into the 1/12" pipe (which is submerged almost to the floor of my cab-rez), the water would turn-on/turn-off the switch wildly. I was also worried about roots getting fouled-into the float-switch, rendering it inoperative. The water is really very calm inside the 1-1/2" pipe, so the float-switch doesn't rapidly turn on and off, and roots won't likely migrate into the pipe.
I also wanted to isolate the water pumping-into the cab-rez from the float-switch (for the same reason), so I have it dump into the cab-rez, outside the confines of the 1-1/2" pipe.
and the hose goes into this, my pump that's attached to a piece of steel, to weigh it, and these 2 airstones down. The airstones are useed to keep the fert-water stirred. The wire goes to my relay-controlled outlet box, off to the side of the rez-rez - the electrical portion of this, which...
... I'll post tomorrow.
Which in-turn gets dropped-into my Rubbermaid rez-rez, that will be full of fert-water, and covered.
Class is dismissed for the day. See you tomorrow!!
Rez-Rez
Hi-All:
In the not-to-distant future, I need to leave my girls to fend for themselves for a week & a day, and since they seem to drink upwards of 1/2-gal/day, and I only have a 5.5-gal rez, I needed to build a rez for my cab-rez (a rez-rez), and a means of pumping water into my cab-rez when it starts to get low. I'm going to explain how I solved this issue - after some bud-porn
The girls are going quite well, I think!
OK - back to the issue @ hand. I'm building a plug that will fit the 2" access hatch I built into the lid of my cab-rez, which consists of:
(plumbing)
8" length 3/4" pvc pipe
6" length of 1-1/2" piece of PVC
1- 1-1/2" PVC coupler, cut in half
1 - 1-1/2" PVC cap
3/8" 90deg. barb connector
3/8" barb "T" connector
3/8" black vinyl tubing
Small statuary pump - Home DePot, Cheap (19 bucks)
2 air stones (to keep my fert water stirred)
a piece of primed-painted steel (as a weight for the pump and airstones)
Rubbermaid tub (my rez-rez)
Hose clamp & some garden hose gaskets, to hold my swith @ the proper depth
(electrical)
2-gang box
2-gang coverplate - holes for switch and outlet
a SPST relay, 12v control coil, contacts rated @ 5 amps 220vac - grainger $3
a 12v power supply
float switch - a Grainger item - like, $6
Misc speaker wire, RCA jacks/plugs
Wire ties, hold-downs
I needed a way to suspend my 1-1/2" PVC pipe into my 2" cab-rez access hole, the coupler is wide-enough to hold it in place.
So I sawed the coupler in half, so that a 2" PVC cap will still fit over the access hole, with the 1-1/2" pipe inside.
I needed to isolate where the water is pumped-into the cab-rez, from the float switch, so I used this barb -
View image in gallery
- I then drilled a hole into my 1-1/2" pvc pipe far enough down to be sure it made it well into my cab-rez, and epoxied the barb in place.
View image in gallery
I threaded the float-switch wires thru the 3/4" pvc pipe, then epoxied the float switch to the end it, and then drilled 2 holes into the top of that PVC cap you see center-stage. I also lopped-off a 4" piece of vinyl hose to use...
...as a means of connecting to the vinyl hose that goes to the rez-rez. I discovered that when I put the unit together, the water supply hose was getting pinched, so I put a notch into the 1-1/2" pvc pipe, so that it wouldn't get pinched anymore. I couldn't find a 3/8" 90-degree barb, so I bought a tee, and capped-off 1 side, making my own 90-degree barb. Desperation - the father of all invention!!
Here's what the float-switch looks like inside the unit, with everything (the cap & hose) in-place.
OK - before I show you what this looks like in-place, I thought that maybe I should answer the obvious question that comes to mind: Why go thru all of the trouble of making the float-switch nested into the 1-1/2" pvc pipe, nested inside the 2" pvc pipe access port on my cab-rez lid, why not just put the switch into the top of the cab-rez, and drill a hole into the side of the cab-rez to fill it?
My reasoning - I have 4 waterwall airstones inside my cab-rez, she really churns-up a storm! without the benefit of the isolation created by nesting the float-switch into the 1/12" pipe (which is submerged almost to the floor of my cab-rez), the water would turn-on/turn-off the switch wildly. I was also worried about roots getting fouled-into the float-switch, rendering it inoperative. The water is really very calm inside the 1-1/2" pipe, so the float-switch doesn't rapidly turn on and off, and roots won't likely migrate into the pipe.
I also wanted to isolate the water pumping-into the cab-rez from the float-switch (for the same reason), so I have it dump into the cab-rez, outside the confines of the 1-1/2" pipe.
OK - here's the switch in-place:
The black hose & switch wire goes thru a light-tight access in the back of my cab -and the hose goes into this, my pump that's attached to a piece of steel, to weigh it, and these 2 airstones down. The airstones are useed to keep the fert-water stirred. The wire goes to my relay-controlled outlet box, off to the side of the rez-rez - the electrical portion of this, which...
... I'll post tomorrow.
Which in-turn gets dropped-into my Rubbermaid rez-rez, that will be full of fert-water, and covered.
Class is dismissed for the day. See you tomorrow!!
looken killer. love hydroponic.
G
guest 77721
Nope, you're ahead of me by at least 2 weeks. I just flipped to 12/12 and have not sexed them yet.
Wow you're getting right into the hydro. Good clean design and build.
Now for the Million Dollar Question....... Does your wife know you can redo her kitchen that nicely?
Wow you're getting right into the hydro. Good clean design and build.
Now for the Million Dollar Question....... Does your wife know you can redo her kitchen that nicely?
luv2garden
Member
Looking great brotha!! man you have that cab tweaked!! great work man, and the girls are looking lovely keep trimming under the canopy man so you don't get mold 
I'll be watching the progress.
Good Luck & stay safe
I'll be watching the progress.
Good Luck & stay safe
I2KanGrow
Active member
Rez-Rez, Part 2
Rez-Rez, Part 2
Hi Again:
- Thanks for the encouragement, folks - I really appreciate it!! I definitely have to keep the undercarriage cleaned-out, else it'll get out-of-control again!
Yeah, Red - but my grow is in slo-mo, because of my low temps - it'll be fun to see how this shakes-out, I'm still betting that you finish before me!
Unfortunately, the wifey knows that "I'm handy", she sure didn't marry me for my looks! It's not the Kitchen however (that's done) - it's the damned bathroom!
OK - As promised, I'm gonna ramble-on, er, I mean finish-up my "how-to" of building my supplemental rez for my cab rez... my rez-rez
The trick here is to control 110 volts, turn on and off depending on the level of water in the rez. Unfortunately, 110 volts and water really don't mix very well, so for the sake of my life-and-limb, I'm going to control the high voltage (110 volts AC, house current) with a safer current - 12 volts DC, utilizing a relay. There are fancier ways, but this is easy - cheap, and works fine
Here's a logic diagram:
My relay uses 12 volts to make an electro-magnet, which in-turn pulls 2 contacts together, to switch-on the 110 volts for the pump. It's a safe way to work around the water.
This is what everything looks like rough-wired together - they NEVER look like the schematic! I'm going to use the clip-on light to test the circuit.
Yup - it all fits into the duplex box!
When the Float-Switch is riding-up-high on it's spindle, no voltage is being applied to the outlet that is relay-controlled... this represent "high-tide" in my rez.
When the water level drops, the float moves down the spindle and the float-switch contacts make, turning the relay on, and supplying power to the outlet that's relay-controlled.
It works - life is good!!!
Rez-Rez, Part 2
Hi Again:
and
- Thanks for the encouragement, folks - I really appreciate it!! I definitely have to keep the undercarriage cleaned-out, else it'll get out-of-control again!
Yeah, Red - but my grow is in slo-mo, because of my low temps - it'll be fun to see how this shakes-out, I'm still betting that you finish before me!
Unfortunately, the wifey knows that "I'm handy", she sure didn't marry me for my looks! It's not the Kitchen however (that's done) - it's the damned bathroom!
OK - As promised, I'm gonna ramble-on, er, I mean finish-up my "how-to" of building my supplemental rez for my cab rez... my rez-rez
ELECTRICAL
The trick here is to control 110 volts, turn on and off depending on the level of water in the rez. Unfortunately, 110 volts and water really don't mix very well, so for the sake of my life-and-limb, I'm going to control the high voltage (110 volts AC, house current) with a safer current - 12 volts DC, utilizing a relay. There are fancier ways, but this is easy - cheap, and works fine
Here's a logic diagram:
My relay uses 12 volts to make an electro-magnet, which in-turn pulls 2 contacts together, to switch-on the 110 volts for the pump. It's a safe way to work around the water.
This is what everything looks like rough-wired together - they NEVER look like the schematic! I'm going to use the clip-on light to test the circuit.
Yup - it all fits into the duplex box!
When the Float-Switch is riding-up-high on it's spindle, no voltage is being applied to the outlet that is relay-controlled... this represent "high-tide" in my rez.
When the water level drops, the float moves down the spindle and the float-switch contacts make, turning the relay on, and supplying power to the outlet that's relay-controlled.
It works - life is good!!!
Green Smoke
Member
You're in engineering or design aren't you? Your cab is pimp. 
I have a question because I probably missed it in earlier posts. What are you using to keep roots from getting to your airstones? Won't they get blocked, or even clogged?
I have a question because I probably missed it in earlier posts. What are you using to keep roots from getting to your airstones? Won't they get blocked, or even clogged?
I2KanGrow
Active member
Thanks IKILL - all forms of compliment are most gladly accepted here!!!!
I2KanGrow
Active member
Hey Green Smoke - good to hear from you again! What a great compliment - but no, I'm not an engineer or designer, I just like to think things thru, tinker, and discover solutions.You're in engineering or design aren't you? Your cab is pimp.
I have a question because I probably missed it in earlier posts. What are you using to keep roots from getting to your airstones? Won't they get blocked, or even clogged?
Root-clogged airstones - now there one I never thought about! My instincts tell me that the roots wouldn't choke themselves - but that just opnion, not based on fact.
In my case, it hasn't been a problem, but that doesn't mean it can't be. Has anyone else had a problem with roots clogging the airstones? I think there'd be more an issue with the fert salts clogging them, before the roots - but again, I'm a newbie also, and as such, am just learning the difference between sh*t and Shinola myself.
Anybody... anybody??????
FLASH UPDATE
OK - I have to now admit it, all my plans, speculations & designs were just that - all speculation, but I finally put it all-together, and tested it out.
To test it - I needed to wait a day, till the level of the water was down far enough to trigger the float-switch/relay circuits. I left the pump unplugged- in-case it turned-on, but not off (who needs a flood?)
This afternoon, I plugged a light into the switched power socket - it turned-on, indicating that the water level was low enough to need a refill. I plugged my pump into the other power socket - 45 seconds later...
... goes the relay, and out goes the light. So it seems that all of the pontification paid off - it works, and I'm a happy camper!
So my rez-rez graduates, from Sh*t to Shinola!
To test it - I needed to wait a day, till the level of the water was down far enough to trigger the float-switch/relay circuits. I left the pump unplugged- in-case it turned-on, but not off (who needs a flood?)
This afternoon, I plugged a light into the switched power socket - it turned-on, indicating that the water level was low enough to need a refill. I plugged my pump into the other power socket - 45 seconds later...
CLICK!
... goes the relay, and out goes the light. So it seems that all of the pontification paid off - it works, and I'm a happy camper!
So my rez-rez graduates, from Sh*t to Shinola!
