kilacaLIbud said:
Pure THC.... UNWANTED CANNIBINOIDS!
I'll stick with my TAR 
THANK YOU VERY MUCH :friends: 
They say ignorance is bliss
I heard BUDDER is close to 98%THC... but then again I smoke "tar" what do i know! 
Last edited:
Pure THC.... UNWANTED CANNIBINOIDS!
I'll stick with my TAR THANK YOU VERY MUCH :friends: They say ignorance is bliss
I heard BUDDER is close to 98%THC... but then again I smoke "tar" what do i know! 
kilacaLIbud
Active member
dont knock it untill u try it...whatever floats ur scientist boat...y do u think it turns black!!well u got ...golden tricomes...and white ones.....hmm y dont u have golden oil??? and what is this tar crap...how can u call it oil..if its a solid...just cause its the color of motor oil....lemme scrape my bong...and compair....umm yea ....same thing...and i didnt mean thc i meant tricomes
racketeer
Member
kilacaLIbud said:
LOL
No shit Kilacali - that stuff looks like nasty ass resin, I wouldn't smoke it. I've made ISO before and It didn't turn black, it was brownish tan - someone fucked up on their extraction. My favorite is still BHO -
Here's pics of what ISO is supposed to look like
I'm not the only one loving "TAR" .....
https://www.freecannabis.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394
http://www.overgrow.com/edge/showthread.php?t=495856
Breath Easy
https://www.freecannabis.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394
http://www.overgrow.com/edge/showthread.php?t=495856
Breath Easy
flipmastermike
Member
kilacaLIbud said:
I have tried hexane before and I did not find it much different then iso. And trust me hexane produced oil will never rule the world as you say,waterhash is to easy to make and you dont have to use any chemicals.Chemical extractions in the future will be mostly for the hardcores. For hash lovers I beleive waterhash will take over.
And you said some people here talk like they are experts?The reason for this is because alot of them are experts
Here is some iso that I made that I thought tasted better and was more potent then the hexane. I am not saying hexane is not good but I dont beleive it is gods gift.
And the reason it is not "oily" is because I let all the iso evaporate out. But it is still considered hash oil. Alot of the oilly stuff still has iso in it.
And trust me it tastes alot better then what you are scraping from your bong
I agree Mike! Bubblehash, Ice-0-Lator thats the ticket! takes longer to dry but handsdown bubble is fantastic... it already rules most of the civilized cannabis culture... but Hashmasta also taught me his colibri BHO is another of Jah's sweet blessings..
Bless Up!
Bless Up!
kilacaLIbud
Active member
....cmon folks...dont go off topic....where talkin bout oil here....not hash!!! im talkin bout liquid kiff....once the word is out ....its all over....plus...if u dont believe me....go on hempcultivaton dot com and do a search for hexane....and u will see....
flipmastermike
Member
kilacaLIbud said:
I think the word is already out. Hexane and iso are not new.People have been making oil with these solvents since before we were born.If the word has not spread buy now it is not going to. Look how fast waterhash took off. I am not comparing hash and oil I am just saying when something is so good it has everyone in the industry talking it does not take long to get very popular.
...........<>
kilacaLIbud
Active member
ok hash masta..u got me.....but .thisss ..and
this ...dont match
nice job hash....shit give me ur secret and ill try ur way...but im just saying for overall effect. i havent seen it made black wit hexane...never doubted u...
this ...dont match
Hashmasta-Kut said:...........<>
nice job hash....shit give me ur secret and ill try ur way...but im just saying for overall effect. i havent seen it made black wit hexane...never doubted u...
MsHerbalivation
Member
I'm a newbie to this forum and the whole oil thing. I read this whole thread and am very interested in reading more. I'll do a search later. Obviously there is a considerable difference between the black and the honey. I guess I'll have to read the way each was made exactly to find out why! That honey is looking good enough to eat though!
i have seen fake honey oil pics posted b4. was real honey!!! lol
ya kila, most iso cant touch bud butane oil in looks, or flavor.
i have a write up somewhere... hold up i post it...
Hello to all people interested in obtaining high grade extractions from marijuana product using butane. That’s the topic I am going to cover as thoroughly as I can, in order to allow newcomers a guide to follow, and also I will give tips and tricks I have managed to glean/ pick up over the last few years.
First and very important to consider is the nature of butane gas and liquid. It doesn’t take a very large concentration of butane gas in an area before it can be ignited by flame , sparks, or anything else of that nature( lawnmower exhaust even, perhaps>?<), so its wisest to do outdoors and there is no way I would recommend anything but that… butane gas sinks, so in a room in a house for example it will pool on the floor, unless it is ventilated out of the area… better to just avoid invisible pools of explosive gas, and do it outside only eh?
Ok what one does, is to acquire a quantity of marijuana product. Stems are not really any good, as well as leaves devoid of trichomes; butane mainly dissolves trichomes, it seems from observation, so in order to get a good yield / quality its nice to use good material. I often use pure bud. Bud gives the tastiest and nicest colored oil, although close trim leaves yield a product very similar in potency. It is also possible to screen or otherwise collect kif from large quantities, and extract from it.
In one quick blurb here is the whole shebang; you take a tube of glass or stainless, preferably, stuff it full of weed and run butane through with a filter on the exit end to keep the weed in, into a glass collection dish and evaporate it sitting in a dish of hot water, and then you have a film of oil on the glass you scrape up with a razor blade and purge the butane out of, and you are done. The particular method I use for purging gives me a whole extraction time of under half an hour, although there are other methods and beliefs….
Ok now step by step, no rushing….its nice like that though all in one sentence. It can be referred to if you get confused as to the overall procedure at any time.
First off, you need a tube. Smaller diameter is better, so a tube with a ½ inch diameter is more efficient than a tube with an inch diameter. I use a tube approx ¾ of an inch in diameter, as it was handy and any thinner it would be a chore to empty as well. Smaller tube diameter allows more complete saturation of the medium, as well as greater flow rate of butane through the medium which seems beneficial for effective extracting.
The tricky part of getting a good tube is having a good entrance hole for the butane nozzle. Butane gas always comes in a can with a tip that is a certain size(for lighters), so making an end cap that a butane can be inserted into and depressed is the key. Several solutions have been used, ranging from copper tubes with an end cap attached that you can drill a proper size hole into, to glass turkey basters that have a nice size end naturally, to stainless turkey basters now, which are quite easy to rig up, I hear. My solution isn’t really feasible for most, I used to be into mountain bikes bigtime, and I take parts from them to use for other things, such as extraction tubes.
PVC tubing has been said to be bad, and I would shy away from it, but I have seen evidence from someone that rigid PVC is perfectly acceptable. Do your own research if you don’t use glass or steel, is my advice.
Ok lets suppose you have a tube that you can insert a butane nozzle in to one end of… you want it to be leak proof around the edge of your tube at the top. The tube doesn’t have to be straight; turkey basters taper usually. Don’t use tape to seal leaks, you may leach tape glue into your oil.
So you have a tube, fill it with your extractables. I have a tube witch holds about 10 – 14 grams, and another that holds about 25-35 grams. You don’t need to fill the tube completely, but it seems best for efficient extractions to put the product in there a bit snugly. I don’t recommend grinding up your extracting medium too fine, as you will get a greener less tasty oil almost for sure. Sometimes I use whole buds, then I re-extract from them, after grinding them up in order to get all the goodness (especially if it cost me money). Other times I cut them up coarsely, or just break them up by hand into little pea sized chunks. Leaf is like whatever.. just cram it in.
So now you have a tube with weed product in it, you will want to cap the exit end. At the exit end of your tube you want to attach a minimum of one coffee filter circle. I cut them from white coffee filter papers, (brown would be better probly, no dioxins…). I make it about an inch in diameter larger than the tube. I use two actually, and there are occasions where the filter papers can rip. Uneven packing is the main culprit; don’t pack tightly at the entrance end, then loosely down the tube, the extracting medium can shift suddenly and blow out. If one is worried about this, use a steel mesh safety screen, such as tea strainer material. I have had blowouts more times than I can remember, and one time I got two eyefuls of oil laden butane…. Not pleasant I must say.
Next, get a steel hose clamp, for most tube types, and fold the filters over the exit end and use the hose clamp to hold them on. Tighten the hose clamp, no doubt. I am not sure all the methods use to hold the filter on for different tube types, just remember you don’t want to extract any glues from tape etc….
I use one can of colibri (300 ml) butane for about 9 grams of quality marijuana. I have access to lots of butane, so I use lots to fully extract from my product. Others use less, I would too if I had immense quantities of marijuana. There is a list at keen marketing…http://www.keen-newport.com/ourBenchmark.htm which lists types manufactured to a certain purity standard; most butane oil makers recommend using only quality butane, as additives and impurities in low quality butane may be inhaled….
Now is the dangerous part of extracting, first running the butane through the marijuana, and then second evaporating it off. Its easy to put the butane through. Just hold the tube vertical with one hand, with a protective mitt (tube freezes), and insert the butane tip and depress, letting the whole can go through without stopping. Put a glass dish under to catch it. I use a pyrex pie plate. You can go slower, and stop and start, to try and slow down the butane’s progress through the weed, but it makes little difference.
Now you have a dish of liquid butane, and this is the most dangerous moment… for if this were to ignite, the fast and furious fireball would probably burn off all your exposed body hair… etc..etc…. lets just not go there….! You need to evaporate off the butane, and easiest id to get a frying pan or what fits well to go under your dish of butane, in order to double boiler style remove the butane. I use hot water from the tap as I think boiling water is detrimental somehow to the easy removal of all the butane, but its open for debate. It seems hot water is better than boiling.. do your own tests if you want.
Keep this dish outside, and evaporate it off with NO OPEN FLAME ETC! nearby. – a barbecue would be bad too I bet…
ya kila, most iso cant touch bud butane oil in looks, or flavor.
i have a write up somewhere... hold up i post it...
Hello to all people interested in obtaining high grade extractions from marijuana product using butane. That’s the topic I am going to cover as thoroughly as I can, in order to allow newcomers a guide to follow, and also I will give tips and tricks I have managed to glean/ pick up over the last few years.
First and very important to consider is the nature of butane gas and liquid. It doesn’t take a very large concentration of butane gas in an area before it can be ignited by flame , sparks, or anything else of that nature( lawnmower exhaust even, perhaps>?<), so its wisest to do outdoors and there is no way I would recommend anything but that… butane gas sinks, so in a room in a house for example it will pool on the floor, unless it is ventilated out of the area… better to just avoid invisible pools of explosive gas, and do it outside only eh?
Ok what one does, is to acquire a quantity of marijuana product. Stems are not really any good, as well as leaves devoid of trichomes; butane mainly dissolves trichomes, it seems from observation, so in order to get a good yield / quality its nice to use good material. I often use pure bud. Bud gives the tastiest and nicest colored oil, although close trim leaves yield a product very similar in potency. It is also possible to screen or otherwise collect kif from large quantities, and extract from it.
In one quick blurb here is the whole shebang; you take a tube of glass or stainless, preferably, stuff it full of weed and run butane through with a filter on the exit end to keep the weed in, into a glass collection dish and evaporate it sitting in a dish of hot water, and then you have a film of oil on the glass you scrape up with a razor blade and purge the butane out of, and you are done. The particular method I use for purging gives me a whole extraction time of under half an hour, although there are other methods and beliefs….
Ok now step by step, no rushing….its nice like that though all in one sentence. It can be referred to if you get confused as to the overall procedure at any time.
First off, you need a tube. Smaller diameter is better, so a tube with a ½ inch diameter is more efficient than a tube with an inch diameter. I use a tube approx ¾ of an inch in diameter, as it was handy and any thinner it would be a chore to empty as well. Smaller tube diameter allows more complete saturation of the medium, as well as greater flow rate of butane through the medium which seems beneficial for effective extracting.
The tricky part of getting a good tube is having a good entrance hole for the butane nozzle. Butane gas always comes in a can with a tip that is a certain size(for lighters), so making an end cap that a butane can be inserted into and depressed is the key. Several solutions have been used, ranging from copper tubes with an end cap attached that you can drill a proper size hole into, to glass turkey basters that have a nice size end naturally, to stainless turkey basters now, which are quite easy to rig up, I hear. My solution isn’t really feasible for most, I used to be into mountain bikes bigtime, and I take parts from them to use for other things, such as extraction tubes.
PVC tubing has been said to be bad, and I would shy away from it, but I have seen evidence from someone that rigid PVC is perfectly acceptable. Do your own research if you don’t use glass or steel, is my advice.
Ok lets suppose you have a tube that you can insert a butane nozzle in to one end of… you want it to be leak proof around the edge of your tube at the top. The tube doesn’t have to be straight; turkey basters taper usually. Don’t use tape to seal leaks, you may leach tape glue into your oil.
So you have a tube, fill it with your extractables. I have a tube witch holds about 10 – 14 grams, and another that holds about 25-35 grams. You don’t need to fill the tube completely, but it seems best for efficient extractions to put the product in there a bit snugly. I don’t recommend grinding up your extracting medium too fine, as you will get a greener less tasty oil almost for sure. Sometimes I use whole buds, then I re-extract from them, after grinding them up in order to get all the goodness (especially if it cost me money). Other times I cut them up coarsely, or just break them up by hand into little pea sized chunks. Leaf is like whatever.. just cram it in.
So now you have a tube with weed product in it, you will want to cap the exit end. At the exit end of your tube you want to attach a minimum of one coffee filter circle. I cut them from white coffee filter papers, (brown would be better probly, no dioxins…). I make it about an inch in diameter larger than the tube. I use two actually, and there are occasions where the filter papers can rip. Uneven packing is the main culprit; don’t pack tightly at the entrance end, then loosely down the tube, the extracting medium can shift suddenly and blow out. If one is worried about this, use a steel mesh safety screen, such as tea strainer material. I have had blowouts more times than I can remember, and one time I got two eyefuls of oil laden butane…. Not pleasant I must say.
Next, get a steel hose clamp, for most tube types, and fold the filters over the exit end and use the hose clamp to hold them on. Tighten the hose clamp, no doubt. I am not sure all the methods use to hold the filter on for different tube types, just remember you don’t want to extract any glues from tape etc….
I use one can of colibri (300 ml) butane for about 9 grams of quality marijuana. I have access to lots of butane, so I use lots to fully extract from my product. Others use less, I would too if I had immense quantities of marijuana. There is a list at keen marketing…http://www.keen-newport.com/ourBenchmark.htm which lists types manufactured to a certain purity standard; most butane oil makers recommend using only quality butane, as additives and impurities in low quality butane may be inhaled….
Now is the dangerous part of extracting, first running the butane through the marijuana, and then second evaporating it off. Its easy to put the butane through. Just hold the tube vertical with one hand, with a protective mitt (tube freezes), and insert the butane tip and depress, letting the whole can go through without stopping. Put a glass dish under to catch it. I use a pyrex pie plate. You can go slower, and stop and start, to try and slow down the butane’s progress through the weed, but it makes little difference.
Now you have a dish of liquid butane, and this is the most dangerous moment… for if this were to ignite, the fast and furious fireball would probably burn off all your exposed body hair… etc..etc…. lets just not go there….! You need to evaporate off the butane, and easiest id to get a frying pan or what fits well to go under your dish of butane, in order to double boiler style remove the butane. I use hot water from the tap as I think boiling water is detrimental somehow to the easy removal of all the butane, but its open for debate. It seems hot water is better than boiling.. do your own tests if you want.
Keep this dish outside, and evaporate it off with NO OPEN FLAME ETC! nearby. – a barbecue would be bad too I bet…
after that i let it stay hot for a while.........
i do a hot water bath(tap hot) to get rid of the liquid butane, then i take it inside and put it on the stove to keep it hot for about a half hour or a bit more. i turn the element on a couple times, just to maintain the heat of the hot water bath to be very hot( but not boiling, just very close). then i scrape it up into a metal tin to heat treat it, but i do it more mildly than the method i used to.... now, i just carefully heat it with a low flame, just enough to gently remove the butane. its a tricky hard to describe process, but it involves tipping the oil sideways etc... to penetrate into it from the top with low heat flame to get all parts of the mix hot without overheating it all. a small amount of external heat is applied to the tin as well but not a heck of a lot. . i used to heat it much hotter, until it went quite liquidy, but i dont anymore, and the oil is harder, must be slightly more stony. you can cook bubbles off the top and out of the butane for hours, but you dont have to, and actually those bubbles arent butane when removed at this stage, but actually thc volatiles gassing out of the hot oil mix. its necessary to heat it to a certain degree to remove the last trapped butane but carefull heating is the key to achieving rock hard oil and sacrificing the least amount of good thc volatiles. its do-able( a whole extraction) in about an hour. also a symptom of butane in the oil is a slight haze or cloudiness in it. you can see minute traces of this before doing my final heat purge technique, and the oil tastes harsh b-cuz of it. after carefully gently removing the cloudy traces, then the oil is completely tasty.
i do a hot water bath(tap hot) to get rid of the liquid butane, then i take it inside and put it on the stove to keep it hot for about a half hour or a bit more. i turn the element on a couple times, just to maintain the heat of the hot water bath to be very hot( but not boiling, just very close). then i scrape it up into a metal tin to heat treat it, but i do it more mildly than the method i used to.... now, i just carefully heat it with a low flame, just enough to gently remove the butane. its a tricky hard to describe process, but it involves tipping the oil sideways etc... to penetrate into it from the top with low heat flame to get all parts of the mix hot without overheating it all. a small amount of external heat is applied to the tin as well but not a heck of a lot. . i used to heat it much hotter, until it went quite liquidy, but i dont anymore, and the oil is harder, must be slightly more stony. you can cook bubbles off the top and out of the butane for hours, but you dont have to, and actually those bubbles arent butane when removed at this stage, but actually thc volatiles gassing out of the hot oil mix. its necessary to heat it to a certain degree to remove the last trapped butane but carefull heating is the key to achieving rock hard oil and sacrificing the least amount of good thc volatiles. its do-able( a whole extraction) in about an hour. also a symptom of butane in the oil is a slight haze or cloudiness in it. you can see minute traces of this before doing my final heat purge technique, and the oil tastes harsh b-cuz of it. after carefully gently removing the cloudy traces, then the oil is completely tasty.
G
Guest
REAL HONEY, LMAO!!!
G
Guest
ISO forever. I'll never use butane and remain ignorant, lol.
From this
to this
From this
to this
kilacaLIbud
Active member
i just found this about the hexane product i use
CAS#- Chemical Name Percentage by weight ACGIH TWA Osha Pel Osha Stel
75-83-2 2,2 dimethylbutane 10 - 15 500ppm 500ppm n/e
96-14-0 3-methyl pentane 15 - 20 500ppm 500ppm n/e
79-29-8 2,3 dimethyl butane 5 - 8 500ppm 500ppm n/e
107-83-5 2 - methyl pentane 40 - 55 500ppm 500ppm n/e
811-97-2 1,1,1,2 tetrafluoroethane 18 - 30 1000ppm n/e n/e
110-54-3 n-hexane 1 - 5 50ppm 50ppm 50ppm
wow soo hashmasta are u gonna post some pics??or u gonna keep bullshittin and postin bs pics...
CAS#- Chemical Name Percentage by weight ACGIH TWA Osha Pel Osha Stel
75-83-2 2,2 dimethylbutane 10 - 15 500ppm 500ppm n/e
96-14-0 3-methyl pentane 15 - 20 500ppm 500ppm n/e
79-29-8 2,3 dimethyl butane 5 - 8 500ppm 500ppm n/e
107-83-5 2 - methyl pentane 40 - 55 500ppm 500ppm n/e
811-97-2 1,1,1,2 tetrafluoroethane 18 - 30 1000ppm n/e n/e
110-54-3 n-hexane 1 - 5 50ppm 50ppm 50ppm
wow soo hashmasta are u gonna post some pics??or u gonna keep bullshittin and postin bs pics...
what the fuck are you talking about? i am world famous for my oil pics punk...
and i dont like to brag, and dont often , but you deserve it. i have taken more wicked oil pics than you can imagine, probably more than everybody else in the world combined!
and i dont like to brag, and dont often , but you deserve it. i have taken more wicked oil pics than you can imagine, probably more than everybody else in the world combined!
oh maybe i see you mistook what i said and thought my picture earlier in this thread was actual honey from bees, but no i think it was from skunk, i cant remember, it was last december that picture shoot.
G
Guest
Hello I just wanted To Say Hash Oil seems to be addicting to me. I have stated to get it from Canada and Man The herb just aint the same without a big clob ontop of a bowl. Ps Enjoy And dont get Any on the Carpet :}
G
Guest
You guys are cracking me up
Peace
Max
Peace
Max
