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MotherLode Gardens 2016
- Thread starter Shcrews
- Start date
i dont understand why a smartpot would have more airflow than a mound
Plants are looking good today. It's really windy, i'm glad i got all my nets up last week.
i cut back on watering a little and they dont seem to mind. have to repair my dripline because my helper broke a fitting off while he was weedwacking the hill, even tho i told him before to be careful. got a fitting overnighted from dripworks , should be here tmrw. i might just not water today because i dont want to deal with the broken fitting. I really wish i had help up here who actually cared about growing ganja
the cover crop seems to be working well to keep the soil moist. I'm chopping and dropping again today.... gonna be a nice thick layer of mulch.
Just the opposite. Mounds have much better airflow compared to a bag... No comparison.
_tessarecting
ஓ
That is something I would do, and did do. If I thought I had some fungal infection I would feed that mound an organic fungicide. Did you get your copper levels up to near their target? This is a main factor in disease resistence.
In the spring when my plants were young and I knew there was going to be cold/rain and they were just going to sit soggy I hit them with dutchmaster zone, copper sulfate solution. I hadnt ammended the copper yet so it seemed logical to me. I think it was a good move despite it not being officially organic...its organic enough. Anyway...point is...I would be using it on affected plants. Never tried actinovate personally but I like the way it sounds from brief research.
Sounds like dudes not going to make the cut? Sorry to hear man that sounds pretty frustrating. Good help is hard to find.
In the spring when my plants were young and I knew there was going to be cold/rain and they were just going to sit soggy I hit them with dutchmaster zone, copper sulfate solution. I hadnt ammended the copper yet so it seemed logical to me. I think it was a good move despite it not being officially organic...its organic enough. Anyway...point is...I would be using it on affected plants. Never tried actinovate personally but I like the way it sounds from brief research.
Sounds like dudes not going to make the cut? Sorry to hear man that sounds pretty frustrating. Good help is hard to find.
Its really a good idea to buy a handful of extra pieces for everything in your drip setup. That way your watering system isn't relying on a 2 dollar part on the mail.
Cant say I've never broke a drip piece here and there. I'd imagine yours is buried under a bunch of shit he was told to whack. Not saying your help couldn't be more careful, but that's a pretty small problem imo.
Honestly you've had 3 years to vet a good helper, and with that many plants you don't even really need help till fall eh? Just observations from what you've shared and posted.
Cant say I've never broke a drip piece here and there. I'd imagine yours is buried under a bunch of shit he was told to whack. Not saying your help couldn't be more careful, but that's a pretty small problem imo.
Honestly you've had 3 years to vet a good helper, and with that many plants you don't even really need help till fall eh? Just observations from what you've shared and posted.
HillMizer
Member
I got a bad batch of netafim parts and break them all the time. I've
Helpers are hard to find. I put a lot of time into it, digging the Rock climber help, if I was closer to Yosemite it would be better. New rule is no hippies with kids, they just always have a reason to be somewhere else. I don't have a problem with that but it doesn't work for me .
You will see N deficiency from over watering, not necessarily from fungus but from low oxygen. A mound will have as much oxygen as a smart pot, but a 5 yard soaking wet mound will take longer to get into the "money" zone than a 1 yard or 2 yard smart pot.
Helpers are hard to find. I put a lot of time into it, digging the Rock climber help, if I was closer to Yosemite it would be better. New rule is no hippies with kids, they just always have a reason to be somewhere else. I don't have a problem with that but it doesn't work for me .
You will see N deficiency from over watering, not necessarily from fungus but from low oxygen. A mound will have as much oxygen as a smart pot, but a 5 yard soaking wet mound will take longer to get into the "money" zone than a 1 yard or 2 yard smart pot.
i already had a couple extra fittings but i cant find them.
i've had a lot of different partners/helpers in the last few years at this spot. i dont understand what you're saying that i've had enough time to find somebody? it's not always that easy my friend... and with no help i would be stuck here for 7 months straight , again
I just meant someone who you can count on, year after year. Sorry it's hard to find good help. I hear that often.
Hopefully you find someone who you can trust, and you make it so they want to be with you year after year.
Wasn't trying to be a dick, just want to see you successful.
Yea hill life gets old if its not setup how you'd like. I agree life on the hill is tough...can't see myself doing this much longer...I'm trying to be just a managerial position next year, with diversified projects, not just me with a bunch of plants on a hill lol I miss traveling, creating connections, festivals, and other life experiences.
Hopefully you find someone who you can trust, and you make it so they want to be with you year after year.
Wasn't trying to be a dick, just want to see you successful.
Yea hill life gets old if its not setup how you'd like. I agree life on the hill is tough...can't see myself doing this much longer...I'm trying to be just a managerial position next year, with diversified projects, not just me with a bunch of plants on a hill lol I miss traveling, creating connections, festivals, and other life experiences.
CoastalKind
Member
I use these to catch gophers and they work well. Buy 3 or 4 of these traps and it shouldn't be too difficult to keep an area that size completely gopher free. They are territorial so when you kill a gopher it takes a little while for another to move in and there shouldn't be too many there. Obviously focus on the areas immediately around your plants first. When you see the mounds they make, dig up the freshest one and place the trap in there. They will see the light and go to plug the hole and snap! Just move out from there and you can set up a perimeter that is gopher free. Then whenever you see one move in just catch that one before he gets too close to the plants.
CoastalKind
Member
I would start here. That is way to close for comfort and they look fresh. If there is fresher mounds that is always best. You want to open tunnels that are in use. Usually they will close off the tunnels or get caught trying within 3 hours, it almost never takes longer than 24 hours.
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Those traps look effective, although one hell of a way to die. It looks like it twists the gopher in half because of that spring. Maybe it just squeezes the crap out of it like a noose. Either way he won't suffer, (too long) and if he takes out a 2 digit plant you can't redo that this year.
Shcrews, you might be interested in this.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7555583&postcount=34
I read it earlier, and one of the things this dude mentions is he 'discovered' that his cannabis plants' root systems were pretty much mirror images of his plants above ground. Roots grew just as wide as the plant, no more, and just as deep as the plant is tall. The result was a lot of unused soil near the top of the holes.
Now this is counter to everything else I've read... that cannabis roots grow only 18-24" deep and just wide as fuck. And I've only ever dug holes about 2 feet deep, and have gotten plants that were 7-8 feet tall (amateur I know, but I'm a guerrilla).
IF what this guy says is true, then it looks like we can yield a couple conclusions:
Mounds are the way to go. Mounds that mirror the shape of how the plants will grow will make the most efficient use of soil, while also allowing us to dig into the earth, creating an effective "soil depth" or "root zone depth" of however deep we dig + the height of the mound.
Now, keeping in mind that I've had plants 4x as tall as the depth of their hole, that means that roots are obviously still punching down deeper (much deeper, according to that fellow) than I had dug. My guess is that if the soil is already dug & turned, meaning much more loose than soil that's just been sitting, the roots will be able to make their way through it faster. This might equate to fast growth and maybe, just maybe (providing bedrock is deep enough to make it irrelevant) our plants will be able to grow deeper root systems and thus taller above the ground.
Dunno if any of this is true per se, but it's certainly interesting food for thought.
Inb4 scientism cult jumps on me for no lab tests, studies, and/or chemical composition charts and sends me to burn at the stake on charges of heresy.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7555583&postcount=34
I read it earlier, and one of the things this dude mentions is he 'discovered' that his cannabis plants' root systems were pretty much mirror images of his plants above ground. Roots grew just as wide as the plant, no more, and just as deep as the plant is tall. The result was a lot of unused soil near the top of the holes.
Now this is counter to everything else I've read... that cannabis roots grow only 18-24" deep and just wide as fuck. And I've only ever dug holes about 2 feet deep, and have gotten plants that were 7-8 feet tall (amateur I know, but I'm a guerrilla).
IF what this guy says is true, then it looks like we can yield a couple conclusions:
Mounds are the way to go. Mounds that mirror the shape of how the plants will grow will make the most efficient use of soil, while also allowing us to dig into the earth, creating an effective "soil depth" or "root zone depth" of however deep we dig + the height of the mound.
Now, keeping in mind that I've had plants 4x as tall as the depth of their hole, that means that roots are obviously still punching down deeper (much deeper, according to that fellow) than I had dug. My guess is that if the soil is already dug & turned, meaning much more loose than soil that's just been sitting, the roots will be able to make their way through it faster. This might equate to fast growth and maybe, just maybe (providing bedrock is deep enough to make it irrelevant) our plants will be able to grow deeper root systems and thus taller above the ground.
Dunno if any of this is true per se, but it's certainly interesting food for thought.
Inb4 scientism cult jumps on me for no lab tests, studies, and/or chemical composition charts and sends me to burn at the stake on charges of heresy.
issues...
found some twisted gnarly looking growth on the top of a smaller plant. flashback of last year...
also, a couple plants that were doing very well have decided to start drooping/yellowing from the top down:
and a couple other plants have some funny looking slightly-twisted growth tips:
why is july always the month when all the problems come up?! so damn stressful, especially when you can only grow 24 plants
found some twisted gnarly looking growth on the top of a smaller plant. flashback of last year...
also, a couple plants that were doing very well have decided to start drooping/yellowing from the top down:
and a couple other plants have some funny looking slightly-twisted growth tips:
why is july always the month when all the problems come up?! so damn stressful, especially when you can only grow 24 plants
Sure looks like a calcium deficiency to me!
thats what backyardfarmer said too. he said there's too much Mg , and i should foliar albion or JHB calcium.. he also recommended cobalt and zinc sulfates, not sure how much though. and phosphorous too i believe...
heres what the soil test looked like before planting:
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I would be trying a bit of gypsum, you need the sulfur anyways. Foliar calcium seems to make symptoms go away, but not sure how much difference it makes at the end of the day due to issues of concentrations.
Realize that when you see foliar symptoms of any kind, you already missed the boat. Yields, potency, something less than what you would have achieved.
All that calcium in your soil is not available as you clearly see. This is why the ammonium acetate at pH 8.2 needs to be run against Melich 3. These base distributions are way off as a result of you measuring all that carbonate calcium.
Saturated paste makes little sense. The reason is that the root tip gives off amino acids that make elements available to the plant (provided you are not over watering, which I have my doubts). If the roots give of acids, what the hell does water soluble have to do with anything? ZERO!
Zinc, manganese, cobalt even a tad of boron are all low.
Will this lab run foliar analysis for you? Have you asked?
Realize that when you see foliar symptoms of any kind, you already missed the boat. Yields, potency, something less than what you would have achieved.
All that calcium in your soil is not available as you clearly see. This is why the ammonium acetate at pH 8.2 needs to be run against Melich 3. These base distributions are way off as a result of you measuring all that carbonate calcium.
Saturated paste makes little sense. The reason is that the root tip gives off amino acids that make elements available to the plant (provided you are not over watering, which I have my doubts). If the roots give of acids, what the hell does water soluble have to do with anything? ZERO!
Zinc, manganese, cobalt even a tad of boron are all low.
Will this lab run foliar analysis for you? Have you asked?
Ca, Zn, B for sure. Co, yea you need to improve your cytokinin to auxin ratio...real kelp, not that soluble shit will help. You don't have a silica test but I bet you need it also.
What do you have on hand? Not too hard to come up with numbers to spray. You simply cannot go forever without amending or spraying. You will be short on K come flower also
I am with slownickel...I have zero use for saturated paste. Keep your microbe population happy/huge and don't sweat it.
What do you have on hand? Not too hard to come up with numbers to spray. You simply cannot go forever without amending or spraying. You will be short on K come flower also
I am with slownickel...I have zero use for saturated paste. Keep your microbe population happy/huge and don't sweat it.
plantingplants
Active member
We have same/similar soils and I did a fizz test on mine. Could barely hear it. Leadsled did not feel that the TCEC was off due to Ca and did not recommend AA8.2. Just FYI.
Sorry you're having problems Shcrews. Right there with you on a few.
Sorry you're having problems Shcrews. Right there with you on a few.
You can't judge much by a fizz test.
Why not suffer the $30 and test again?
Why not suffer the $30 and test again?
