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MotherLode Gardens 2016

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
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The bucket lid. All of those vertical lines on the lid need to be cut with a razor knife. 8 or 10 of them. It's still going to be hard to get off after that. ✌
the bucket lid didnt have lines. never seen any like it . i broke it and got it open

hi schrews
have you got some tests from previous years and what kind of amendments you added ?
my tought on this .... you should try to make your own recipe of soil mix and use your own technic on some plants taking care of the soil by yourself year after year. and continu to do what you are comfortable with on the rest.. you'll learn and if you 'll do mistakes ...you'll make on little number of plants and you'll learn a lot.
i'm pretty sure i've already been doing all that. you should go check out my old threads, its been a long process to get to where i'm at today which still isn't very far.

Hey shcrews, do you recall any particularly good BBHP phenos? They seem mostly thin leaved tall growing. The dream beavers are growing the fastest, bushier with a lot of growth at the nodes.
I grew 5 females. 4 of them were similar in structure, very blue-dream dominant. One was short and squat with gigantic football and basketball-size buds, definitely more G13/HP dominant, had that weird meaty smell that Mr Nice is known for
 

Shcrews

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don't sweat this soil test stuff shcrews. i look at the soil test as a learning mechanism to see why your soil did what it did & maybe improve your understanding & your ability to get consistent results vs get way-laid by funky out of whack soil.

your soil is already NOT funky or out of whack.

it would be a good idea to get some numbers on your new soil & make certain it's as good {or better?}

The key things i see in your test is, Ca is slightly high. that's going to be OK cause your within your 8:1 high end of the cal-mag range & it's not too high. {albrecht decided 6.5:1.5 was optimum ~more recent research suggests little variability from 3:1 to 8:1} Next, K is slightly low {emphasis on "slightly" don't sweat 1% ~or 1.2} That basically gives you some control where you can hit them w/ K-sil or whatever around the flip ~but you might not even see a difference. Finally, like milky has pointed out historically, boron is low. Borax is damn near free compared to other supplements & that hits the sodium "issue" {i wouldn't sweat getting sodium up w/o maybe a couple tests assuring me it was actually low ~notice how it's fine in the FGL test? anyways, there's sodium in the borax} remember, you don't want more than 4ppm boron

i wonder what's going on w/ phosphorous? i notice that it's reported as extreme on the FGL test but seems within parameters on the logan test {which actually seems like you should maybe add it?}

i don;t worry much about P or N. because i use the stuff i use, P is in there & i don;t want to over-do it. similarly, N is bountiful & can be metabolized by living soil systems {there's tons of it in the air}

also, it would seem that the soil isn't completely homogenized & there's something like the "spikes & layers" thing going on. in nature, soil is varied rather than completely mixed to a consistent state. you see pockets of best & worse growth w/ good areas in between
thanks for the info. I got my soil recommendations from Leadsled and was able to source most of the amendments, but couldnt get a few of them. I hope that i can figure somethin out after i plant everything, which is the priority now. He recommended some sulfates that i wasn't able to find, but i did add some gypsum, kelp meal, and borax.
anyway, remember that thing about spectrum & pepzyme being used to get good growth w/ salt build up? similarly, there's something to the chem guys argument that ionic whatever is ionic whatever & maybe "salt build up" isn't the best way to describe your variances but, the key to that discussion is the ability of the product to smooth over excesses & variances in your soil ~milky has used the word "alchemy"
what is the dilution ratio and application rate for the spectrym/pepzyme combo? and do you foliar it or water it in.
 
Black lake organic ships sulfates fast. I've slso heard from people on here leadsled stocks them too. I want to get them from him next time
 

Shcrews

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issues

issues

got down in the 30's a few nights ago. my starts all took a big hit, this is what they looked like the next day
WrfG8yMl.jpg


BID2aXBl.jpg


e8wdjhMl.jpg






I also noticed there is a big difference betw my backup starts that were in my new soil, vs. the ones started in the old coots

here are original march seed start in old coots on the left, april seed start in new soil on the right:
GJFaL4jl.jpg



the plants in this picture are the same age. new soil on the left, old coots on the right:
aGc8cuvl.jpg
 

Shcrews

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I amended the old soil with most of the recommended ingredients, but i was unable to source a couple of them in time for transplanting. I am hoping to figure out a way to make up for that with foliars or soil drench.

we are now in the process of making 24 mounds and getting plants in them. It's going slow but steady. I am planting the healthiest females from the original march seed starts. So far they seem to be taking well to the transplanting. If any of them in a week or so don't take off I will replace them with my backup starts that are looking very nice, but arent ready to go in the ground quite yet (unsexed).


first one in the original plot:
kmCVYeb.jpg



Manual Labor:
WCICjOU.jpg




made a dent on a cloudy day:
hjL2o5y.jpg




cover crop 12 seed blend. trippy:
ADSqQqNl.jpg
 

jbarsk8

Active member
Way to keep pushin along schrews, good job! Big difference between dirt mixes wow. Old ones look very hungry next to the new.
 

maxmurder

Member
Veteran
thanks for the info. I got my soil recommendations from Leadsled and was able to source most of the amendments, but couldnt get a few of them. I hope that i can figure somethin out after i plant everything, which is the priority now. He recommended some sulfates that i wasn't able to find, but i did add some gypsum, kelp meal, and borax.
what is the dilution ratio and application rate for the spectrym/pepzyme combo? and do you foliar it or water it in.

Pep c -1mil per gallon
Spectrum extra - 1/8 or 1/10th teaspoon per gallon
Root drench.
This what I have written down and use, you may wanna double check with lead or milky on the spectrum.
 

Noonin NorCal

Active member
Veteran
Looks good bud, you gonna try and double plant anything? I know they are in mounds but look like you could pull it off?
 

Manivelle

Member
Veteran
the plants in this picture are the same age. new soil on the left, old coots on the right:
View Image

hi shcrews
this is what i was talking about earlier.
by recycling old soil i meant to work it (amending, add fresh green material to compost ,checking ph by planting different crop cover in it during early spring (or just test it with a device) during winter to use it springtime. i didn't meant "re use " it .

here it seems it's more a ph problem than food content.
what i'd do for a quick ph problem solving. : take two seeds ,two old soil pot, add wood ash in one pot and something acidic like peat in the other and you'll see what is best for you.
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
what is the dilution ratio and application rate for the spectrym/pepzyme combo? and do you foliar it or water it in.

Pep c -1mil per gallon
Spectrum extra - 1/8 or 1/10th teaspoon per gallon
Root drench.
This what I have written down and use, you may wanna double check with lead or milky on the spectrum.

when i do it, i use a 5 gallon bucket & put 4 gallons of RO in it. i aerate that w/ my airlift/diffuser & 2 eco comm whatever air pumps but mixing it is fine as well. i only aerate for 20 minutes up to maybe an hour. anyway, i have done from 1/4 tsp each to 1/2 tsp each to that 4 gallons & that range makes effect w/o overdoing it. i only recently {this season} doubled to the 1/2 tsp/4 gals rate.

i water in to the soil ~a sunset drench would likely be most effective as it says the microbes don;t do well w/ light

the cold is my biggest problem as i mentioned the hardening off & rough transition. they're looking better but; i wouldn't even want to post pix
 

plantingplants

Active member
Have you fed the plants in the old coots? I'm sure it's low on N by now which would explain the yellowing.

I don't think you mentioned what you got for new soil? What compost did you use this year? Anything different?
 

Shcrews

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I topdressed some of them with EWC and alfalfa meal. Also sprayed with some AEA stuff a few days ago and they seem to be getting greener.

My new soil is the mix from TheOutlawTree that he made a thread about. he had enough extra for me to get the amount i needed. it is great so far, all the starts in it are rich green and growing like crazy.
 

reppin2c

Well-known member
Veteran
With this thread I want to fall into the theme...give some advice and ask a beginner question that has been answered a few times before. Just saying.

Keep on keeping on schrews. The AEA foliar has really been unlocking fresh soil potential here in CO.
 

Good ol boy

New member
Shcrews those mounds look clean good job. Looks like a lot of manual labor without some heavy machinery. Good to have friends. Sorry to get off topic but I've laid all my 1 and 1/2 inch and I'm abt to start cutting into it to install the t's does it matter how far away my first t or site is from the pump ? And does it matter how far away each t or site is from each other ? Also what kind of filter should I install ? I really appreciate the help.
 

Shcrews

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the cold is my biggest problem as i mentioned the hardening off & rough transition. they're looking better but; i wouldn't even want to post pix
yah i feel ya. the weather has been really bad here for a week now. couple days ago we had the biggest thunderstorm i've seen in months. my house almost got hit by lightning, it blew out a few electrical sockets. My starts do not look happy at all, they are like "dude where did the sun go, we thought it was almost summer!"

Shcrews those mounds look clean good job. Looks like a lot of manual labor without some heavy machinery. Good to have friends. Sorry to get off topic but I've laid all my 1 and 1/2 inch and I'm abt to start cutting into it to install the t's does it matter how far away my first t or site is from the pump ? And does it matter how far away each t or site is from each other ? Also what kind of filter should I install ? I really appreciate the help.
with my byf-style drip system that stuff doesn't matter. The drippers are pressure-compensating so the spacing and elevation is irrelevant. I use a honda wx15 hooked up to a 2500gal tank with no filter.

With this thread I want to fall into the theme...give some advice and ask a beginner question that has been answered a few times before. Just saying.
back in school we got points just for participation
 

Shcrews

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finishing transplants today, then staking cages and laying dripline. hope to have my drip system set up by sunset. might do a foliar spray too.

once everything is in the ground i can relax a little bit, as there is not much more work for at least another month or so. This past week has been pretty rough, but i had some great help and learned a lot to make next year smoother.

I've seen a couple gopher holes in my mounds already. I think they are below the hardware cloth though. It will suck if i lose plants to those fuckers. My dog killed one yesterday, so i gave him a steak dinner

Also my phone is broken so no pictures right now sorry guys. And not sure if i mentioned it but my Nikon camera that i had at the beginning of this thread, got stolen in santa cruz, fuckers broke into my car when it was parked in front of my house. so if anybody's wondering what happened to the high-quality pics well now you know.
 

Shcrews

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Scum of the earth tweeker thieves need to be tortured and then hanged.
I've had so much shit stolen, the rage has been building up for years. If i ever actually catch one of those fuckers i'm gonna go hard on him, get revenge for all the random stuff that i've lost. Not many things bother me, but i hate thieves.
 
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