G
Guest
cant make holes..out of the quesion...sealed only...90-95F is what CO2 enriched enviorment needs to be at.. I will run 12/12 on during night time to keep it cooler... I dont have the voltage to run even a small AC
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bandan said:
Sooo...what were you planning on doing with that 8" Vortex in your shopping list if you can't make any holes?
IMO, it won't stay under 90 (the max I'd run CO2 at) in there if it's sealed...it's just going to turn into an easy bake oven and you'll probably end up with root rot from high res temps and lack of DO.
G
Guest
i take all your points seriously and im happy there are some people around here that arent trolls... I guess the point I dint really make about the holes was no holes in the room walls...but the door is another matter.... the vortex is for the carbon scrubber...
I can run that 1000w in a closet 1/3 the size of this one with passive exhaust from out side and a dayton 465 pulling air thru the hood to vent out side..I keep it at 80's no problem...
I was wishing to just have a 8" air cooled hood and pull fron the hood into the scrubber.. but I guess moving hot air around will still keep it hot...
my other idea was to... put 2 holes in the door and conect each to the hood and have the dayton just suck in air from the big room thru the hood and exhaust it into the big room again..
I can run that 1000w in a closet 1/3 the size of this one with passive exhaust from out side and a dayton 465 pulling air thru the hood to vent out side..I keep it at 80's no problem...
I was wishing to just have a 8" air cooled hood and pull fron the hood into the scrubber.. but I guess moving hot air around will still keep it hot...
my other idea was to... put 2 holes in the door and conect each to the hood and have the dayton just suck in air from the big room thru the hood and exhaust it into the big room again..
your still just gonna be recirculating hot air....hot air off the lights pushed into the big room and that hot air is getting sucked back in, i have a 400w sealed room and can't keep it under 90 without ac, even with my dayton and air cooled hoods...there's no way you can keep it under that with a 1000w even having your day cycle at night isn't gonna help much.
bandan said:
Ahhh...ok, that will help but you're going to need to somehow isolate the hot exhaust air or at a minimum have a bunch of air circulation in the room next to the closet to keep the air mixed up. It sure would make things much simpler though if you could manage to swing a single hole in the ceiling tho
What are the odds of running a heavy duty extension cord from another circuit to a portable AC in or next to the closet? You could then air cool the light through the door (intake and exhaust so that no odor is exhausted) and have a sealed room for better CO2 efficiency...
G
Guest
heres how I have it figured...
1000w Light = 1100w
Vorted = 185w
Air King 16" = 85w
-----------------------
1370w = 11 amps
+++ I need to squeze in another 800w for the A/C! 6.5 amps
-------------
im going to install a Arc Fault Interrupter Circuit Breaker 20amp for the room
and just pray for the best...
1000w Light = 1100w
Vorted = 185w
Air King 16" = 85w
-----------------------
1370w = 11 amps
+++ I need to squeze in another 800w for the A/C! 6.5 amps
-------------
im going to install a Arc Fault Interrupter Circuit Breaker 20amp for the room
and just pray for the best...
G
Guest
i needed to run a dehumidifier anyways so now ill just run a Combo Dehumid/AC...
G
Guest
raque: I thought it would be a good idea...200$ for piece of mind...
so there is no way to have a ductless A/C in my sealed room?
so there is no way to have a ductless A/C in my sealed room?
bandan said:
Unfortunately no. The heat that is removed from the air has to go somewhere. You could use a portable AC and duct the hot exhaust air through the door...but it's gonna put out odor and lots of humid air.
You mentioned earler that you're putting in an AFCI breaker...is it a new circuit or are you just replacing an existing breaker? It would be really handy if you could drop in a seperate 20a/120v circuit for AC & fans, but you might be able to squeeze everything on a single 20a/120v.
G
Guest
sadly its a old circuit! ....
im going to get a A/C and vent out... I cant wait to try the 1000w in that room and see how bad it really is and where I stand...
....im going to get a A/C and vent out... I cant wait to try the 1000w in that room and see how bad it really is and where I stand...
G
Guest
http://cgi.ebay.com/BIONAIRE-COLD-F...6QQihZ009QQcategoryZ79624QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
what about something like that?
what about something like that?
Scientist
Member
Yeah dude, get rid of that air out of the room. I'm in a room 14x12' with a 400w and had to duct out the window, with AC running the room at 74.
Busting a hole in the wall is a lot less hassle than worrying and dealing with high heat. Find a way to the outside and duct there from the light. If possible make an inlet for the light too, as you're running co2.
Happy growin
Keep in mind this is summer on the top floor of apartment building.
Busting a hole in the wall is a lot less hassle than worrying and dealing with high heat. Find a way to the outside and duct there from the light. If possible make an inlet for the light too, as you're running co2.
Happy growin
Keep in mind this is summer on the top floor of apartment building.
I
irie-i
i never saw an a/c like that.. where does the hot air go?
a dual hose unit wont exhaust smell.
a dual hose unit wont exhaust smell.
bandan said:sadly its a old circuit!
im going to get a A/C and vent out... I cant wait to try the 1000w in that room and see how bad it really is and where I stand...
Hmmm...make sure that it's not a 15a circuit since most household circuits are 15 - especially if they're 10+ years old.
I think I'd look for a different AC personally...a dual hose 8K+ being ideal if you can't put a window unit in there.
G
Guest
hmmm its a 15a circuit on a newer house.. basicaly I need a airconditoner that will keep the room sealed? are those what the dual hose ones are fore?
