Mars Hydro LED

[Mars Hydro Led]

This friend use extra uv and red bar to help promote the yield.(SP250)

For new SP3000, there is no need to do like that. Extra 660nm chips have been added into spectrum.

To purchase the SP3000, hit this link:

https://bit.ly/30DesD0

Coupon"ICMAG"

 

[Mars Hydro Led]

Don't forget that our lights also can be used for commercial grow.

Commercial growers like TS3000 and SP250 more.

 

[indagroove]

This friend use extra uv and red bar to help promote the yield.(SP250)

For new SP3000, there is no need to do like that. Extra 660nm chips have been added into spectrum.

To purchase the SP3000, hit this link:

https://bit.ly/30DesD0

Coupon"ICMAG"

That's great, but 660nm isn't UV or Far Red, it's deep red. Far red would be around 720 to 730 nm generally for growing. Then there's the question of UV; is it UVA or UVB or a combination of both.

Please tell us exactly which chips are used for the far red and UV in the SP3000. I did ask this question previously and was never answered.

Personally I use a 730nm far red LED lamp from HLG and the Agromax PureUV T5 lamp for UVA and UVB along with my main light, which is made up of 3500k white Samsung chips along with supplemental 630nm and 660nm red chips. It's nice knowing exactly what the specs of the chips are, and it produces good results for me.

 

[Chevy cHaze]

Quick update on the timer off/ LEDs faintly glowing problem:
I have bought a few smart plugs and using one of them as a timer through the app has made the problem go away. No more faint glow from the TS1000 during lights off.
Still funny that the problem persisted with all regular digital or mechanical timers, but will use this until MH can come up with a solution.

Glad you're looking into it anyways MH, keep it up!


All the best,
CC

 

[saluki]

That is very concerning, would this glowing issue trigger stress and possibly cause plants to hermie in flower? I wanted to buy 2 of their lights to test but I am concerned by this problem.

 

[Chevy cHaze]

No, absolutely no issues.
I have done a few grows already with this light and only realised this now.
The glow is too faint to matter I think.
Plants flower out and no hermies whatsoever and they all were mixed runs, so not just one strain.
If it were causing issues, I would have found out by now.
Rest assured the lights work a treat.
I was only a bit concerend for lifetime of the diodes etc...as the light receives constant current.
But the folks at MH say not an issue and the current is soooo minimal...


For me it's more: On should be on and Off should be off ;-)



CC

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

That is very concerning, would this glowing issue trigger stress and possibly cause plants to hermie in flower? I wanted to buy 2 of their lights to test but I am concerned by this problem.

Rest assured, the glow has nothing to do with the lights. ANY device hooked up to the timers Chevy used will also get that trickle current. No working timer puts current through in the "off" position.

 

[Chevy cHaze]

Rest assured, the glow has nothing to do with the lights. ANY device hooked up to the timers Chevy used will also get that trickle current. No working timer puts current through in the "off" position.

As I said absolutely no issues from a growing cannabis point of view.
But also as I said, my other mars hydro lights (a couple reflector units) are not doing this, so it's def. nothing other than the light that causes it I'm thinking?
Anyways, they're on it, no need to discuss it any further for now;-)


All the best
CC

 

[Mr. J]

It's not the lights. How could it be? Think about it. Do the lights have that slight glow when you unplug them from the wall? Obviously they don't. The issue is occurring between the wall outlet and the light. The only thing left in the equation is the timer.

 

[indagroove]

Rest assured, the glow has nothing to do with the lights. ANY device hooked up to the timers Chevy used will also get that trickle current. No working timer puts current through in the "off" position.

That's not true at all. I posted a link several pages back about this. You need the right timer, one specifically rated for use with LED lighting: https://mydome.co.uk/timer-switch-leds-timer-light-cfls/

It's not the lights. How could it be? Think about it. Do the lights have that slight glow when you unplug them from the wall? Obviously they don't. The issue is occurring between the wall outlet and the light. The only thing left in the equation is the timer.

Yes, the lights are indeed partially responsible for this. Basically it's the cheap chinese driver (Meanwell knockoff) they use on the TS1000, combined with the fact that older timers DO let a bit of current through.

So the wrong timers are letting some current through, and the cheap driver in the light is letting that current trickle through to the diodes. This wouldn't happen if either the proper timer was used, OR a quality driver was used in the manufacturing.

The good news is that Mars is finally using Meanwell drivers in their newest lights. The bad news is they are still cutting corners by using less efficient versions compared to the Meanwell XLG or HLG series drivers.

 

[Mars Hydro Led]

That's great, but 660nm isn't UV or Far Red, it's deep red. Far red would be around 720 to 730 nm generally for growing. Then there's the question of UV; is it UVA or UVB or a combination of both.

Please tell us exactly which chips are used for the far red and UV in the SP3000. I did ask this question previously and was never answered.

Personally I use a 730nm far red LED lamp from HLG and the Agromax PureUV T5 lamp for UVA and UVB along with my main light, which is made up of 3500k white Samsung chips along with supplemental 630nm and 660nm red chips. It's nice knowing exactly what the specs of the chips are, and it produces good results for me.

It is UVA 380nm and 730nm in SP3000.

We added more 660nm for SP3000 to contribute to flower.

SP3000: https://bit.ly/30DesD0

 

[GET MO]

It is UVA 380nm and 730nm in SP3000.

We added more 660nm for SP3000 to contribute to flower.

SP3000: https://bit.ly/30DesD0

Research shows uvb is the one that is useful for higher thc.

 

[Mars Hydro Led]

Quick update on the timer off/ LEDs faintly glowing problem:
I have bought a few smart plugs and using one of them as a timer through the app has made the problem go away. No more faint glow from the TS1000 during lights off.
Still funny that the problem persisted with all regular digital or mechanical timers, but will use this until MH can come up with a solution.

Glad you're looking into it anyways MH, keep it up!


All the best,
CC

Glad to hear that you found out the way to solve the faint glow issue.
We have told this issue to engineers. They will found out a way in the next half year.

 

[Mars Hydro Led]

Research shows uvb is the one that is useful for higher thc.

We heard the UVB is more easily to burnt out. We want to make the quality more stable.

 

[Mars Hydro Led]

That's not true at all. I posted a link several pages back about this. You need the right timer, one specifically rated for use with LED lighting: https://mydome.co.uk/timer-switch-leds-timer-light-cfls/



Yes, the lights are indeed partially responsible for this. Basically it's the cheap chinese driver (Meanwell knockoff) they use on the TS1000, combined with the fact that older timers DO let a bit of current through.

So the wrong timers are letting some current through, and the cheap driver in the light is letting that current trickle through to the diodes. This wouldn't happen if either the proper timer was used, OR a quality driver was used in the manufacturing.

The good news is that Mars is finally using Meanwell drivers in their newest lights. The bad news is they are still cutting corners by using less efficient versions compared to the Meanwell XLG or HLG series drivers.

Thanks for the answers. It is very clear.

For the meanwell driver, we could use more efficient version. But we consider the cost-effective rate more. The defective rate of meanwell driver is less than 1/10000. So it is still high quality driver no matter which version.

 

[Mars Hydro Led]

2xSP250 in 4x4 grow tent for 6 flowers.

We have sold out SP250 in USA, canada, Germany and UK warehouse.
There are only a few pcs left in Australia warehouse.

But SP3000 is available in each overseas warehouse now.

SP3000: https://bit.ly/30DesD0

Coupon code"ICMAG"

 

[Mars Hydro Led]

ONE TSW2000 for ONE flower. This is really a monster bushy flower.

 

[Chevy cHaze]

2xSP250 in 4x4 grow tent for 6 flowers.

We have sold out SP250 in USA, canada, Germany and UK warehouse.
There are only a few pcs left in Australia warehouse.

But SP3000 is available in each overseas warehouse now.

SP3000: https://bit.ly/30DesD0

Coupon code"ICMAG"

Will the SP250 be re-stocked soon?
I had settled on 2 of these lights for potential a 4'x4' grow later in the year.
all the best and keep it up MH Team
CC

 

[Mr. J]

That's not true at all. I posted a link several pages back about this. You need the right timer, one specifically rated for use with LED lighting: https://mydome.co.uk/timer-switch-leds-timer-light-cfls/



Yes, the lights are indeed partially responsible for this. Basically it's the cheap chinese driver (Meanwell knockoff) they use on the TS1000, combined with the fact that older timers DO let a bit of current through.

So the wrong timers are letting some current through, and the cheap driver in the light is letting that current trickle through to the diodes. This wouldn't happen if either the proper timer was used, OR a quality driver was used in the manufacturing.

The good news is that Mars is finally using Meanwell drivers in their newest lights. The bad news is they are still cutting corners by using less efficient versions compared to the Meanwell XLG or HLG series drivers.

Ya, like I said it's the timer. Seriously what is so hard to understand? The timer is a switch. Switches turn things on and off. If you flip a switch and the thing connected to it doesn't turn off you can't blame the thing. You blame the switch.

 

[Chevy cHaze]

But Mr J, that would on the other hand mean that this light does not work with standard, readily availabe grow equipment timers.

Both digital and mechanical.
The issue with ALL timers I know is that they run on a tiny bit of current which goes through the light itself to close the circuit, that is a well known fact by now...and that means the tiny current used to run the timer is enough to faintly illuminate the diodes, meaning that with normal timers, you never get the light to go completely dark.
Or is that what you meant? Yes it is because of the timer, but it's the same problem with ALL timers available for a normal grower. Would be cool if the light wouldn't respond to these low currents and happy that they're working on it.
Again, for all reading this, it does not have ANY detrimental effect on the plants, this discussion is merely to establish the physics at work and to satisfy curiosity and is no way meant to talk down these lights. They're pretty good actually.



Cheers
CC