Yes all the air is removed with an attachment you can buy for around $30Thanks for the detailed response, Tangwena ... very useful information that will assist everyone ... I like the idea of doing the different types of cure for each harvest to see what you prefer from each plant.
So when you cure in the mason jars, it sounds like you also remove the air (I assume you have a special lid for the jar that attaches to the food saver) ?
I presume this means you no longer air cure / burp with the jars at all ... did you find that removing the air from the jar resulted in a better taste or a stronger high or a quicker cure ?
I would imagine that you could put the buds into the jars at a higher moisture content, and then place the jars in a warmer place without the risk of mold due to the vacuum in the jar.
Thanks for the input my friend. The dosage will depend on your tolerance of course but mostly on the strength of the strain used. My cobs only need 0.1 to 0.5g to trip. I find 0.25 very strong on some strains and 0.5g strong on others.Simply put, at .3-.5g of a good cob you get the yawns, cold nose etc, at .5-1g fkin blast off, shrooms take grams or eights to do similar
That's the magic
Yes all the air is removed with an attachment you can buy for around $30
The usual cure of drying the buds then leaving them in jar to age is just aging not curing.
This is a fermentation cure like is done with tobacco totally different taste and effects to the old green dried buds in a jar.
You can ferment the buds with them still green straight from the plant in a vacuumed jar as the heat shrivels and removes water within 24hrs. The buds change from green and wet to orange/golden brown but then need slow drying and aging to bring out the full power.
I prefer to dry them for a day or two first but I have tried it with green fresh buds and it works fine.
This cure is not about looks or taste its about the high and improved effects. If you can manipulate the cure to get the best taste and looks that is up to the individual. But its the changed high that I am after I dont give a hoot how it looks or smells.
As long as its vacuumed whether in a bag loose, a jar or in a compressed cob you will never get mold. Once removed from the vacuum they will need to be dried as normal for use or further storage.
Tangwena
All cool my friend as your buds are a little dry you may need 48rs to get color change but it should work fine, just remember once the buds have sweated and changed color you need to remove them from the heat source and partially dry them before resealing them still slightly moist to age for at least a month.The usual cure of drying the buds then leaving them in jar to age is just aging not curing.
... the penny finally dropped after reading this statement ... yep, I'm a slow learner !! Just because everyone calls it 'jar curing' doesn't mean it is actual 'curing'. I've been incorrectly equating the 'jar curing' as just a different form of your fermentation processes. Calling it 'jar aging' makes a lot more sense, and separates the intent of both processes, which I now see as being very different. That one sentence is gold ... thanks.
After reading your post, I took 2/3 of the remaining buds out of the 'burping' jar (at about 68%), sealed them in a vac bag (no cobbing) and placed them into the yogurt maker to ferment at 40C.
It is time to experiment experiment experiment with fermentation !!
Thanks for the input my friend. The dosage will depend on your tolerance of course but mostly on the strength of the strain used. My cobs only need 0.1 to 0.5g to trip. I find 0.25 very strong on some strains and 0.5g strong on others.
My dark Panama and gold Panama only need 0.1 to 0.25g for a 10hr ride that just keeps coming in waves anything over that and I spend the first 2 or 3 hours laying on the floor tripping in my head and rolling around in ecstacy before being able to get up and walk for the remainder of the 10hrs. Golden Tiger is another one thats just as strong and you need to get the dose right if you want to be able to function.
Tangwena
do the glandular resins stick to the cob wrap at all?
At all? yes. Worth mentioning though? not really because only a small amount of the surface area of the buds actually touch the husk and as the buds sweat out some moisture they shrink away from the husk a little further reducing contact.do the glandular resins stick to the cob wrap at all?
Looks very tasty
Which strain did you use?
Awesome job canna. How'd you cook the buds at the different temperatures and how controlled was it over those few days?
I tried getting away from chewing by stuffing gel caps full of cobbed bud and it's just not the same. You miss something by not chewing it and once you go back to having a chew you'll stop taking the capsules and put up with any tastes or discomfort because of the difference in quality. Honestly it's night and day so I can't wait to hear how you go having a chew on that delicious looking cob you've cooked up as it already sounds damn near lethal
Thanks for sharing and now that you've upgraded to a stolen yogurt maker (she's not getting it back once you've tried a fully cooked cob) your results are going to be even better. It's going to be great to see so I look forward to seeing your results.Thanks seeded ... I have also been enjoying reading your posts on cobbing and fermentation as I've worked my way through this thread. Your mind appears to have been running all over the place like mine, trying to work out different experiments to understand the effects of Tangwena's cobbing process at different temperatures, durations, etc.However, you are a bit further down the road than me ... I'm yet to finish my first cob !!
My 'cool temp' cob was placed in a bookcase in the back corner of a room, where temperatures were pretty consistently in the low 20s day and night. The 'moderate temp' cob was placed on my UPS battery for the computer, which was also consistently in the mid 30s.
My control over temperatures was pretty lax, other than checking with a thermometer from time to time to see what was going on. I have since stolen my wife's yogurt maker (she doesn't know yet !!) to improve my control over the temperature for future batches.
My main problem has been I was only part way through the thread when I prepared my cobs. As I've kept reading the thread, more explanations and refinements in the method have been discussed, making me realise my initial ideas about cobbing were not correct (e.g. I was generally aiming for cooler temps, similar to the jar burping method). So every couple of days, I have had to keep adjusting my ideas and approaches with the fermentation process ... this batch should be fine, but I'm looking forward to the next batch as I now have a better idea on what I'm trying to achieve and where I'm trying to head.
The taste grew on me over time due to stockholm syndrome and positive reinforcement. There's some discomfort and even some burning when the real sticky stuff gets stuck in my teeth but boy oh boy are those cobs the shit. Speaking of which I've had gum after a cob and it burned the taste out pretty well but it was also very effective at getting those tricky bits of cob stuck in my teeth as well. Can't really say the studded gum was very enjoyable thoughseeded... So I was chewing on some cob today and totally forgot I was doing it and popped a couple pieces of gum, strong Peppermint kind and after mixing in with the gum most of the taste was gone...
I personally like the taste, those who don't might want and give it a go... The gum did also improve the texture of the cob once mixed in with it and chewing gum certainly gets the saliva working more than just the cob so it seemed to aid in absorption.
I imagine someone else has already done this but though I'd pass along