Making holes? Adjustable drywall hole cutter, compass cutter and keyhole saws

[lobsterbush]

I use the hole pro hole attachment regularly doing HVAC installs. Not cheap but a total lifesaver when it comes to cutting many holes. Paid for itself on the first job in saved time cleaning, marking.

Comes with 2 sets of blades for different materials. I have used it on paneling, sheetrock, osb, plywood, and plaster.

 

[Stonefree69]

I didn't think the RotoZip bit cut sheet metal very well. It walked a lot and had a tendency to be notchy, like won't cut, won't cut, won't cut, ok whoooo full speed ahead straight to the left lol, oops won't cut, won't cut... .etc.

I do believe you. The Rotozip isn't considered a "full powered tool" like a router or drill @ 120v, it draws less amps, hense less power. Maybe a good jigsaw & metal blade w/circle jig. It's about in the same class in power as the Dremel, but a little bigger and has some more power.

 

[budderfly]

I do believe you. The Rotozip isn't considered a "full powered tool" like a router or drill @ 120v, it draws less amps, hense less power. Maybe a good jigsaw & metal blade w/circle jig. It's about in the same class in power as the Dremel, but a little bigger and has some more power.

A jigsaw does work well in some scenarios. Cutting open the bottom of a duct or cutting flat sheet for patches. They do spray a lot of debree but at least it's not hot! I'd recommend goggles when cutting sheet metal with a jigsaw.

Tops are just plain tight space whether your coming from above or inside the duct from below (I show that in my thread), and a full size jigsaw needs almost a foot behind the blade where most residential ducts aren't going to be much wider than a foot at all, making a circle from inside through the top impossible.

That rotozip bit I used on a rotary tool drawing several amps so I think it was more powerful than the RotoZip base. Maybe that was the problem though.

 

[grow nerd]

Get a sheet metal nibbler from Harbor Freight for under $20. Or tin snips, preferably angled.

Speaking of right tool for the job, a jigsaw is not the way to cut thin duct sheet metal, unless it has a file-like blade (?). A RotoZip-like tool will create lots of shavings / dust, and be loud as hell, at best. (Short version of a long story: cops were called on me while cutting round holes in round metal ducting with a Dremel and jigsaw at night. Something about machine gun noises.) Drywall is a whole 'nother matter, it's so easy to do with so many different tools. Also, how often are you going to have a curved drywall surface?

Manual nibbler:

Drill attachment:

Electric:

Pneumatic:

You can do things like this with it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OpxAc7T4_LE

FYI, if you're cutting holes in drywall for a living, you'd do it with a RotoZip or similar.

 

[grow nerd]

Duct / board start collars can also be useful, as well as saddle taps (i.e. plenum setups), depending on the application.

Start collars:

Saddle tap:

 

[Stonefree69]

To add to list (1st post won't let me add more than 5 pics):

RotoZip RZ1500-30-RT 5.7 amp spiral saw kit cuts holes with RotoZip CRCT4 circle cutter guide for circles up to 12". Works good if you know how to use it right. Just remove rubber cover from center pivot tip and drill 1/8" hole to anchor. You can get this online factory reconditioned for about $55 with everything and more versatile than just a hole cutter. Kit includes:

5.7 Amp Spiral Saw Kit - RZ1500-30-RT
Dust Management Attachment - DM5
Circle Cutter Guide - CRCT4
1/8-in Collet
5/32-in Collet
1/4-in Collet
Collet Nut
Multipurpose Dust Management and Drywall XBIT
Canvas Tool Bag

PS: Guess I'll use this for making straight cuts in insulation panels, etc.., a RotoZip SEG1 straightedge guide (about $12):

 

[vta]

....

These are perfect for dry wall. I was so glad I got one for my last build.

 

[Stonefree69]

Duct / board start collars can also be useful, as well as saddle taps (i.e. plenum setups), depending on the application.

Start collars:

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Saddle tap:

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Wish I coulda gave you 2 rep grow nerd, those are important and very useful. Greentrees Hydroponics has them for 8" and 12" for about $8-13. Also thanks vta, I'm getting one in case I'm w/o power or need portable.

Also Ideal-Air noise reduction clamps, I have some in 8" and 12" (about $12-15). Great for connecting ducting w/o tape + insulates and dampens sound. Here's some pics:

 

[Stonefree69]

On another note, in finding your studs - you can locate a stud near a wall outlet, just use a flat-tip screwdriver to see what side of the outlet is attached to the wall. Studs are spaced apart 16" OC for load bearing walls and 24" for non-load bearing walls (ceiling) by code (at least for last 30 years). That way you can place vents, etc... nearly anywhere on walls or ceiling. You can double-check w/a nail and hammer to see if it "sticks" in wall stud.

Studs are measured from a corner or when you 1st start a series of studs at 16" from END of 1st stud to OC of 2nd stud. That way sheathing/drywall will end up at center of other or 4th stud for a 4' wide panel (16"x3=48"). Also as mentioned make sure it's safe where to make holes! Use a test probe/screwdriver to see if wires, pipes or anything that might be in the way of making your hole. Here's a diagram of studs inside wall:

 

[mrcreosote]

C'mon you guys...

Real men use a sawzall and don't give a shit about that 220v. romex or plumbing in the wall.
Live on the edge a little. Life can be exciting if you let it be.

 

[Stonefree69]

C'mon you guys...

Real men use a sawzall and don't give a shit about that 220v. romex or plumbing in the wall.
Live on the edge a little. Life can be exciting if you let it be.

Speaking of Sawzall, my fav circular saw is Milwaukee. They make some great stuff!