LouDog's LED Lounge

[OG_Bishop]

thats calcium.

i may be wrong, but did i see that you're using Jack's?

edit: if so, stop. use Athena Pro line or GH FloraPro. you need more Cal than N. especially in coco!!!!

 

[LouDog420]

thats calcium.

i may be wrong, but did i see that you're using Jack's?

That's what I thought (Ca), thanks for confirming.

Yes, using Jack's A-B plus epsom, calmag, micros, MKP, and drip clean.

 

[OG_Bishop]

i used Jacks at a commercial grow a few years ago. we grew in coco and had to add calmag... you shouldnt HAVE to add calmag to a 2 part base nutrient. thats why i suggested Athena Pro or GH FloraPro. the amount of calcium you need to feed some strains gets CRAZY when you're in coco.

i use GH's calimagic at 7ml/4l water.

you could either bump up the Jacks A&B ratio to see if that solves the Cal issue, which it may! if not, i say use GH CaliMagic. it has low N and high Cal - 1 part N to 5 parts Cal. then switch to something else.... idk, i personally dont like Jacks so im only gonna try to get ya off it

 

[LouDog420]

i used Jacks at a commercial grow a few years ago. we grew in coco and had to add calmag... you shouldnt HAVE to add calmag to a 2 part base nutrient. thats why i suggested Athena Pro or GH FloraPro. the amount of calcium you need to feed some strains gets CRAZY when you're in coco.

i use GH's calimagic at 7ml/4l water.

you could either bump up the Jacks A&B ratio to see if that solves the Cal issue, which it may! if not, i say use GH CaliMagic. it has low N and high Cal - 1 part N to 5 parts Cal. then switch to something else.... idk, i personally dont like Jacks so im only gonna try to get ya off it

Just gonna bump calmag for now.

Athena is 3x-4x the price of Jacks. I'll have to check out the GH pro series. I ran the regular flora series for about a decade, always needed calmag added.

They're all just salts, I'm sure we can work Jacks and find the tweaks that gets them producing under these LEDs. Appreciate your input

 

[DunHav`nFun]

Yeah......Classic calcium rust spots LD , and SOME bitches are just Cal / Mag whores and need bumped up to be all they can be......My clone only Chem D hadta have 7 ml per gal of Botanicare Cal / Mag to get rid of the leaf variegation and explode with dialage.......and it`s tough to manage different strains on the same juice without monocroppin.......also.....and you know this but.....when shit goes sideways and ppms soar and ph drops where the plants completely stop eatin......

With coco.....ALWAYS.....when in doubt , flush it out.....with 1/2 strength nutrients that is.......and hey....Room and plants look good as a whole , so just roll with it and keep it simple.....always worked for my old ass and it`ll work for you too.....Hell......

My lil headies setup`s been eatin the K.I.S.S. formula / maxibloom powder @ 5 gms per gal for a damn while with a lil Cal / Mag and silicablast for stemwall strength and overall plant health.....if that`s not babyshit simple I dunno what is.......don`t even need dripclean with 1/4" open ended driptubin ......anyways.....

You got this bro , so keep up the killer work and......

Peace......DHF.......

 

[LouDog420]

Watching the grass grow... day 9... think we're going to run into some height issues, so the tucking and bending begins

bumped calmag, and everything's getting settled.

I have the urge to de-leaf, but if I do it now, I'm just doing it again in a few weeks.

Running basically full auto now. Refill a res every 6 days or so. All climate control is automated through the mini-split, new dehui, and dampers which convert the sealed air system to standard intake/exhaust during lights out. Irrigation/drainage fully automated. Waiting on some little rubber feet to place under our egg crate to get the pots at the end of the tray out of standing water.

Otherwise, just grooving

 

[OG_Bishop]

edit: you already know.

 

[bloyd]

I dropped the Epsom with Jacks and have been boosting ca with calcium acetate at .1-.2 g/gal, that made huge improvements in plant health under led.

 

[jackspratt61]

I dropped the Epsom with Jacks and have been boosting ca with calcium acetate at .1-.2 g/gal, that made huge improvements in plant health under led.

Much more boron is needed under led guys. Try total ca x .0055-.0085=B.

 

[LouDog420]

I dropped the Epsom with Jacks and have been boosting ca with calcium acetate at .1-.2 g/gal, that made huge improvements in plant health under led.

Where/what brand/source are you running for the calcium acetate?

Seems like some organic guys are making it themselves from eggshells/acetic acid, but figure there has to be something out there that is more lab grade and less guess/check in terms of what is actually being added to solution and at what ppm.


Thanks for the boron info jackspratt. Makes sense now, as I was seeing some calcium products with extra boron. I supplement jacks part a with the plant prod micros which has a nice bump in boron.

Thanks for the info all,
LD

 

[LouDog420]

2" square furniture casters, protecting my pond liner from that nasty sharp egg crate...

End plants are now elevated and sitting nice and dry, out of any runoff that doesn't make it down the bulkhead due to the lip...

LouDog paw for scale

 

[bloyd]

Where/what brand/source are you running for the calcium acetate?

Seems like some organic guys are making it themselves from eggshells/acetic acid, but figure there has to be something out there that is more lab grade and less guess/check in terms of what is actually being added to solution and at what ppm.


Thanks for the boron info jackspratt. Makes sense now, as I was seeing some calcium products with extra boron. I supplement jacks part a with the plant prod micros which has a nice bump in boron.

Thanks for the info all,
LD

https://www.bulksupplements.com/products/calcium-acetate
For no-nitrogen calcium- 1g calcium acetate to 5 gallons feed ends up being about 40 ppm

 

[LouDog420]

Thanks bloyd.

Day 12, cruising... An easy afternoon, so we're hanging with the plants, refill a res, change out the CO2.

Feed sitting around 2.65ec.

Armor Si - 1.33ml/gal (dual purpose pH up, this lands me right around 5.9pH)
Calmag - 4.8ml/gal
jacks 3-2-1 (x 1.6)
MKP - 1.33g/gal
Micro - 0.133g/gal


Group shot

Mix of keepers under the Grow Light Science (bubblehead, OG Chem, Cookiewreck/ECSD OG Chem, AK47 f2 (2 phenos), and GG4 RIL)

Mostly OG Chem x NYCO under the Total Grow

More OG Chem x NYCO under the Grower's Choice

Mostly RKS x ChemD bx under the Spectrum King

Welcome to LouDog Alley, what happens in the alley, stays in the alley (until the end of stretch, after which come the cleaning crews)

Good vibes,
LD

 

[Akss]

Looking good lou where are the ak47 f2 from?

 

[LouDog420]

Looking good lou where are the ak47 f2 from?

Joey Weed from the depot back in 2017ish

 

[LouDog420]

Day 15, fighting the OVS

 

[gmanwho]

Looking healthy with the ca additions!!!

Sorry to be picking shit apart. But something i see that has gone unnoticed, and its fucking important. At least i have experienced it. those dripper compensators are gonna clog. then you will get inconsistency drip on a site by site basis. that will also screw with your diagnosis ability. Glad you ran 2 emitters per site for redundancy, so important. I want you to succeed so please dont take it as im only chimming in to say do this or that. i want you to succeed!

Unless i don t see a small micron filter before the black poly line... you need to install one. Algae will grow in the lines, especially in the light exposed pvc line running overhead along the wall. absofuckinlutely !! algae will flake off and then travel and clog. especially if you have a down time an the lines are dry for extended period of time. you then fire up the system, flakes come off the inside pvc wall and travel to the emitters. I know it blind sided me once before!

I also recommend doing the solo cup fill over " X " amount of time technique on random drippers before u start seeing any inconsistencies. place a solo cup randomly under say 25% of you drippers , then compare water height in the cup. ( or pour that water into a measuring cup for accuracy)

you may find flow rate inconsistencies. especially further away from the pump. ( also mag pumps move water but don't really build high psi needed for even flow. best to go with the centrifugal style pumps as they build psi needed for the drip compensators to work correctly)

also ive experienced white "saw dust" from the pvc cuttings & the construction end up clogging random drip emitters. so if system was fully assembled with emitters from the first water flow, there maybe debri in some already

not sure if those are pressure compensating drip emitters. some emitters come apart to clean. another thing to consider is running Pressure reducers at each black line feed. think drip works dot com or drip depot has some 12psi pressure reducers filter combos. but then again does the 12psi work with those emitters, something that needs to be referenced.

one more thing to think about , the upper pvc feed line will empty after a water event. sometimes areas will get more water then others during this leak down. if your reservoir is lower then your top pvc line, pitch the pvc so it drains back to reservoir. 1/4in-1/2in every 10 ft is all that is needed. any more pitch will decrease water flow further down the line as its traveling up hill. this way the water drains back faster to reservoir then unexpectedly feeding sites with more water

its not uncommon practice to replace the drip emitters every other round. or keep up on the cup fill test..



love it man... be safe!!

 

[LouDog420]

Thanks bud, nitpick away. I'll have to get some shots of the irrigation system, some things already addressed, others easy additions. Pics are always fun

Looking healthy with the ca additions!!!

Sorry to be picking shit apart. But something i see that has gone unnoticed, and its fucking important. At least i have experienced it. those dripper compensators are gonna clog. then you will get inconsistency drip on a site by site basis. that will also screw with your diagnosis ability. Glad you ran 2 emitters per site for redundancy, so important. I want you to succeed so please dont take it as im only chimming in to say do this or that. i want you to succeed!

Unless i don t see a small micron filter before the black poly line... you need to install one. Algae will grow in the lines, especially in the light exposed pvc line running overhead along the wall. absofuckinlutely !! algae will flake off and then travel and clog. especially if you have a down time an the lines are dry for extended period of time. you then fire up the system, flakes come off the inside pvc wall and travel to the emitters. I know it blind sided me once before!

All good my friend. Micron filter is at the pump. Easy addition to throw them on the pvc ends before it transitions to poly hose, at $10 a pop. I have two connections from the main PVC line to each poly loop to equalize pressure as much as possible.

I've run this pvc/poly hybrid with these drippers for the past year and a half maybe. Usually lose 1-2 out of 40 per run, and just keep an eye on them. I like the idea of cup test. As long as they're dripping reasonably similar to the rest, I leave them in. The filter additions are cheap and a good idea, as the system has been operating for a while and there is likely some build up starting to happen in the pvc, whether that's salt/scale or algae.

Usually change drippers every other grow.

I also recommend doing the solo cup fill over " X " amount of time technique on random drippers before u start seeing any inconsistencies. place a solo cup randomly under say 25% of you drippers , then compare water height in the cup. ( or pour that water into a measuring cup for accuracy)

you may find flow rate inconsistencies. especially further away from the pump. ( also mag pumps move water but don't really build high psi needed for even flow. best to go with the centrifugal style pumps as they build psi needed for the drip compensators to work correctly)

Running submersible 1/3hp pump. I've looped lines as much as possible to even out pressure, and err on the side of over feeding to make sure everything stays wet since we have drainage set up.

I also run a line straight back to the res so the submersible can prime properly and get running. I ran some numbers to make sure the head pressure with some conservative reductions with the manifold/pvc curves, and 1/2" pipe worked out before expanding from the old 40ct drippers to the 82ct currently in place. All seems to be powerful enough with enough static pressure building after the pump gets flowing.

Sitting at 1:20 feeds, 7x daily right now, which is around a 2% shot based on 1gal total container volume assuming the 1gal/hr pressure compensating drippers are doing what they're supposed to do

also ive experienced white "saw dust" from the pvc cuttings & the construction end up clogging random drip emitters. so if system was fully assembled with emitters from the first water flow, there maybe debri in some already

No pvc cuts this round, she came fully assembled! I just added new poly hose. When I make new cuts, I'll generally run it prior to dripper installation for reasons you stated.

not sure if those are pressure compensating drip emitters. some emitters come apart to clean. another thing to consider is running Pressure reducers at each black line feed. think drip works dot com or drip depot has some 12psi pressure reducers filter combos. but then again does the 12psi work with those emitters, something that needs to be referenced.

one more thing to think about , the upper pvc feed line will empty after a water event. sometimes areas will get more water then others during this leak down. if your reservoir is lower then your top pvc line, pitch the pvc so it drains back to reservoir. 1/4in-1/2in every 10 ft is all that is needed. any more pitch will decrease water flow further down the line as its traveling up hill. this way the water drains back faster to reservoir then unexpectedly feeding sites with more water

Ya, some plants definitely get some extra on the leak down. There's no real way to drain back to the res based on concrete block walls and the current pvc run that has to go up and over before coming back down to the level seen in the grow room and connecting with the poly mainline.

its not uncommon practice to replace the drip emitters every other round. or keep up on the cup fill test..

also customhydronutrients dot com is a great place to get bulk nutrients. He is a fellow icmagger !!

love it man... be safe!!

Thanks my friend! Really appreciate your wisdom and time!

 

[FranJan]

Hey LouDog, loving the grow and your LED collection. Gonna be tough dialing in different plants with different panels but maybe you're the person for the job. Good Luck and Best Wishes on the grow(s)!

Just wanted to add to the Cal/Mag convo. Since no one has mentioned it I gotta say TPS Organic Cal/Mag, great stuff. According to the website it contains no nitrogen, (or about .01 percent from the amino acids in it), and you don't need much of it. Recommended dose is 1 to 2 ml per gallon so you might be able to use less and that may make it a bit more economical for you. And yes it comes in the handy 55 gal drum option .

CALMAG OAC | Organic

Organic CalMag OAC is a groundbreaking calcium and magnesium supplement registered with the WSDA. It features an organic acid chelate that immediately drives calcium and magnesium inside of plant cells, and allows for these critical elements to be used for growth and photosynthesis. Organic...

tpsnutrients.com

 

[LJ farming]

Hey LouDog, loving the grow and your LED collection. Gonna be tough dialing in different plants with different panels but maybe you're the person for the job. Good Luck and Best Wishes on the grow(s)!

Just wanted to add to the Cal/Mag convo. Since no one has mentioned it I gotta say TPS Organic Cal/Mag, great stuff. According to the website it contains no nitrogen, (or about .01 percent from the amino acids in it), and you don't need much of it. Recommended dose is 1 to 2 ml per gallon so you might be able to use less and that may make it a bit more economical for you. And yes it comes in the handy 55 gal drum option .

CALMAG OAC | Organic

Organic CalMag OAC is a groundbreaking calcium and magnesium supplement registered with the WSDA. It features an organic acid chelate that immediately drives calcium and magnesium inside of plant cells, and allows for these critical elements to be used for growth and photosynthesis. Organic...

tpsnutrients.com

I was wondering about theirs. Thanks for the info. I don’t remember what I paid for 6 gallons of Growmore no N flowering CalMag however I know for a fact the recommended dose is 5ml per gallon so that could be a huge savings alone.
Have you run the complete TPS line? I gave their customer service a call when I was switching nutrients and their complete lack of technical support gave me a sour taste so I switched to jacks over a year ago and haven’t looked back.

Peace out,

LJ