Looking for guerillas with leaf spot diease experience.

[D.S. Toker. MD]

I checked the rest of my sites yesterday and nearly every plant in every site has it.( not a single blue hash plant has it)

It may be different for you guys, but last year some of my plants got this disease about 4 weeks into flower. The plants hardly progressed beyond that point once the disease came on. This year, its infected plants that are barely into flower and that means as it did last year, they wont really progress far beyond where they are now. Thats a big fat looser in my view. Instead of the average plant giving me 10 0z's of smoke last year, i got about 2 per plant.

I went by the nursury and picked up some Liquid Copper. I cant spray until Monday but ill let you know how it goes. For me its either spray or walk away.

The stuff looks safe. Im told it knocks it back quick and thats what i need. The litterature says that there is no sign of residue left in 14 days regaurdless of repeated applications. Its ormi approved for organic growing.

Read this:

http://www.biconet.com/disease/copperSoapFungicide.html

 

[JOJO420]

my 2 cents

my 2 cents

HOW DID YOU FIX THE PROBLEM????

humor me please, Guys please describe the elevation, surroundings and overall description of your garden. Is is in a valley? by a creek? on a hill? in a forest? Where is your gardens that are getting this disease? I feel like I know what is going on, I just need some info to be sure.

 

[Cannasseur]

My plot consists of a mountain valley located at about 2000ft above sea level. Nestled within the valley we find ourselves before a multitude of woody flora, including Maples (Acer spp.), Hawthorns (Crataegus spp.), Willows (Salix spp.), Cherries (Prunus spp.), Elms (Ulmus spp.), Viburnums (Viburnum spp.), Spirea (Spiraea spp.), High/Lowbush Blueberries (Vaccinium), and some unhealthy marijuana scattered throughout the various small tributaries. The area is fairly grown in with native vegetation, all of which seems to be riddled with disease itself.

Edit: The plot is also quite saturated year around indicated by the various scattering of willow bushes throughout the area.

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

Like cannasuer, seemingly every plant in my enviroment has it, trees, bushes, herabacious weeds.

I have 8 sites. 2 in river valleys, 3 on mountain tops, 3 in flat agricultural areas where corn and soybeans are grown. The areas encompass a 10 mile radius.

Unlike the others posting here, ive been really short of rainfall. I havent had a drop in 23 days and it was 17 days before that rain. I saw on the local weather last night that yesterday was our 46th day in a row with temps over 90 degrees. We've had 16 days in that period when temps exceeded 100 degrees with an average relative humidity of 70% daytime, 90% nightime. Nightime lows have been around 80 degrees.

The sun has been blistering, we've had extreme heat warnings day after day, the elderly are dropping like flies and the humidity is suffocating.

 

[ronbo51]

Sorry to see this shit. I have fought fire blight, black spot, early and late blight all my gardening life, especially on tomatoes. This year has been horrible in the mid atlantic, most of the southeast and all the midwest. Conditions are bad with ultra high levels of nighttime humidity. That is the real culprit. I have lost many crops and all my stone fruit trees. In the end a comprehensive disease management plan is the only hope of overcoming the disease. I had a friend who ran a hydro lettuce and mater greenhouse op and he started disease control at the door of the greenhouse. Foot washes, clean clothes and hands. Nothing came in that wasn't clean. All tools, gloves, gear of any kind is wiped, washed and bleached. Then it got interesting. He applied a myco product to his seeds at germination. I can't recall what it was but he swore by it. With me I bleach wash all my containers and anything that comes in contact with plants or soil. This year I began Serenade at the seedling stage. You have to get the leaves colonized early in order to ward off the disease. I have sprayed maybe 4 times(every 2 weeks). This is the farthest in the season I have ever gone with my leaves still looking good. You can add Serenade to your compost tea. It will grow in the brew and give you more bang for the buck. Unfortunately for guerrilla growers this tea spray is the answer. I add Espoma Bio Tone to my tea along with Serenade. I figure anything that will colonize the plant is better than the spots. But it would be hard to lug a sprayer into the bush. Foliar feeding with compost tea fortified with biologically active ingredients will be the best bet in the long run. Fungicides are nasty. You don't want to smoke them. Copper and Sulphur just create an adverse environment, they don't provide anything long term or beneficial. One possibility that I have thought about is H2O2. We used hydrogen peroxide in sterile mushroom culture. The dosage would be critical. It is a strong oxidant.
I would go with the Bordeaux type mix with the copper to knock down the blight right now, then brew some tea and haul out a couple gallons and a hand held sprayer and spray the plants as often as possible within a 10 to 14 day schedule. Good luck, and next year start out clean and take this pest very seriously from day 1.

 

[ronbo51]

Also, it is obvious but I'll say it anyway. Spray the underside of the leaves. That is where germination takes place most of the time.

 

[Cannasseur]

When you make an AACT to suppress your leaf spot problems, do you brew a tea that is specifically dominant in Fungi/Bacteria or one that is balanced?

edit: Is the bacteria that causes leaf spot systemic or does it only affect the surface of the leaves?

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

After a close and detailed inspection of every plant i have, ive found a considerable difference between strains. Are others seeing that?

Here's the breakdown

GHS White Widow- first plants to show symptoms, the most succeptable strain im growing.
Biddy Early Fems - No.2 in suceptablity, every plant has it
Dinafem Hashplant- has it but not bad
Dinafem Blue Hash - None of 8 plants have it
Sensi Star - none of 10 plants have it
Gigabud- 2 plants, no infection

I have 8 sites and the plants at each site are a mixture of the above strains. I have a WWidow that's terribly infected standing next to a Bhash that doesnt have it at all.

Are others seeing a difference in succeptabilty?

 

[straintester]

*****

 

[Cannasseur]

ronbo,
During your experiences, have you been applying foliar sprays of compost tea as just a preventative or have you used post-infection?

I am going to make some tea spray and will increase my neem oil spraying. THAT stuff works well.

Not trying to stab at your practices, but wouldn't the use of neem oil have an negative effect on the microherd you are trying to populate with ACT?

edit:
Going to order myself a bottle of Serenade ASO (containing Bacillus subtilis strain QST 713) and add it to the next brew.

 

[hamstring]

Lazlo
Hey guerilla I would hit it with ¾ strength Green Cure for sure, good thing is if this is worst case pics they don’t look too infected.

JOJO
Hey I am strictly a lowlands grower and that’s why I started the thread because it took me years to find areas where I know the ebb and flow of the flooding season. My spots have withstood 100 yr flood levels. That’s what it’s so scary to me because my native vegetation is made to grow in high moisture situations and last year was my first seeing this shit. It’s on every Fing piece on native vegetation out in the bush.

DS
I hear you on the GHS WW just starting to flower and I don’t blame you one bit for using whatever may work more power to you. PLEASE let me know how Liquid Copper works.

Funny thing about the GHS WW they didn’t show the advanced diease signs as quickly as the other strain I was growing. Yes, they had the very small spots (millimeters in diameter) on the leaves but they weren’t as far along in the disease cycle as they others. When they caught up the leaves started falling off instantly. Most other strains showed holes in the leaves and yellowing much like the pics I posted but leaves didn’t fall off right away. The WW leaves never showed any advanced signs they just yellowed and fell off. Crying shame.

Ronbo51
Thanks for the info and anecdotal experience with garden problems.

Hey brother it’s not hard for guerillas to carry a sprayer it’s just like a sleeping bag no difference. Any backpack that can carry a bed pack will carry a sprayer.
I think your advice is spot on about spraying both sides of the leaves I do the same every time.
Also not trying to lessen your input because I could be total wrong but I read the spores are released in the spring and become wind borne and actually land on the top of the leaves not the bottom.

 

[straintester]

*****

 

[ronbo51]

With nighttime humidity levels and temps so high it is just inevitable that disease will be rampant. If we could set up fans out in the bush we'd have a fighting chance. I have NEVER kept black spot at bay once a plant is infected. Of course all the biological controls will be killed by copper, sulphur, neem oil, or any other fungicide. Once the slate is cleared with fungicides then the disease has a blank slate with no competitors to run wild. It's very sad.
My understanding is that the undersides of the leaves get loaded with spores just like the tops, but UV light and dessicating wind movement keeps spores from germinating on top, mostly. Of course under severe conditions all bets are off. The shade of the underside as well as the little nooks and crannies in the leaves provide little eddies where moisture lingers and spores get going.
DS might be onto the right track in identifying resistant strains, just like tomato seed packs ID what diseases certain varieties are able to combat. Just think of the spore load being layed down for next year by all this infected plant matter.
I have seen people say 'it's just a weed". Well, actually it is a crop. One thing we are finding, especially as those Cali guys fire up all these large grows, is that marijuana is susceptible to a number of pathogens, and as we concentrate numbers of plants we see these rising to take the bait.

 

[hamstring]

FYI Fellow Guerrillas

Understanding your enemy is the key to defeating him. This is hard for a guerrilla to read how many of us are checking on plants daily. So this life cycle is a tough one to battle. I really think that prevention is the only way; I am going to take that advice for next year and begin spraying as soon as they hit the ground. You can always change before flowering begins but this shit doesn’t pack up and leave once established you are forced to deal with it for years to come. Relax for a second and your F*@ked.

Read that shit and think about it you cant see the spores you cant tell its infected, no way of knowing completely in the dark until the symptoms show up 5 days later.

5 days “F” me I spent my whole guerrilla career learning how not to be at the site every week.

Then 10 days or 2 weeks later the spores are spreading again. So a guerilla on average visits his or her site every 2-3 weeks by that time the infected plants have re-infected themselves. Holy Leaf Spot Batman.


Disease Life Cycle:
Black spot spores overwinter on infected foliage and canes, including infected foliage that has fallen and been left on the ground. In spring, spores are splashed up onto newly emerging foliage during rains or irrigation. Once the weather begins to stay consistently warm and humid, the spores germinate and infect the plant within one day. Visible symptoms (black spot and some yellowing) will be evident within five days, and it will produce and spread new spores within ten days. The new spores will infect other parts of the plant, or be carried on the wind to any

 

[straintester]

* * * * *

 

[Cannasseur]

I think we should get to know our enemy abit better. Are you sure that black spot affects plants other than roses?

 

[straintester]

*****

 

[ronbo51]

I know it's not scientifically correct, but I call pretty much all leaf fungal disease 'black spot", or "blight". Sorry for the confusion. In the end it's the same treatment and outcome.

 

[straintester]

I know it's not scientifically correct, but I call pretty much all leaf fungal disease 'black spot", or "blight". Sorry for the confusion. In the end it's the same treatment and outcome.

No problem.
The thread was most helpful thanks

 

[sudsandbuds]

i had a similar tyoe of fungus im pretty sure, maybe a disease of some sort but i used Safer Brand fungicide. it worked real well, i was told i had black spot mold. took me 2 yrs ro figure it out