Alas, the lake is fairly contaminated from the inflow river - industrial waste.
Avocado?
So I bent some feathers in my backwards time warp so....
back to plants
First off a big reward to the one who identifies this plant. At first I thought an interesting weed, then perhaps a tree, then maybe Jack's bean stalk. Anyway it grows like an old barn on fire and tomorrow it dies (I hope)
baby dearest
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outgrowing citrus tree
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cut in half
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a true monster
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IRONY, MM. IRONY! Sarcasm has an 'anger' component. Sarcasm is often sullen or resentful.
(Ha Ha! I 'm as 'picky' with word etymology as you are with organic growing. Oh the Irony of it all ... !)
That plant looks like Amaranth, especially the first, smaller pic. It gets that horizontal color banding when younger that can change to vertical it seems. Comes in lots of sizes, I have a four ft dwarf one that volunteered all over the garden last year, so lots of amaranth here this year.
On the quackrass/ nutgrass issue, one good thing about nutgrass is that it will show you where there is excess moisture, at least it shows up that way for me. Can let you know of leaky lines or poor drainage.
That would have been nice but I saw no flowers or grain. Can they go forever without making a seedhead?
The sedge showed up when I was watering a lot to germinate grass and clover. However my front yard is quite damp and rich soil. Lots of worms.
God damn... i never thought of my own alfalfa patch! Good move!
MM was showing his off first. Give him credit.
I just found this one.
I had seen it before. Thought it was some sort of clover until I looked close.
Didn’t plant it. Didn’t tend it.
I need to plant more.
Sounds lovely.
The world could use a few more self described “assholes”.
https://www.texasgardener.com/pastissues/mayjun06/weedwars.htmlLandscape fabrics sold as groundcovers vary in their ability to block out nutsedge. Woven fabrics are not very effective but the nonwoven spunbonded polypropylene products have performed quite well in university trials. The emerging nutsedge shoots have trouble punching through the tangled mat of fibers in these groundcover fabrics. Dupont Typar 307 and 312 (3 oz. per square yard weight) rated the most effective in a university trial.
These fabrics are usually pinned down to the soil tightly which is fine for nursery and landscape beds where you are dealing with "normal" weeds. Experience at the organic farm mentioned earlier showed that if a standard type of groundcover fabric was held down by soil over the fabric or any weight holding the fabric down firmly the nutsedge could punch through. If on the other hand it was allowed to float on the surface and only attached to the soil at the sides the weed could not punch through the loose cover.
These fabrics allow water to move through. Thus the nutsedge tubers sprout beneath the fabric during the warm days of summer and starve to death trying to reach light (remember we must have no mercy!). Sections of nutsedge-infested soil covered with fabric (not weighted down) for about a year have showed no nutsedge regrowth after several years now since the fabric was removed.
The loose landscape fabric technique is in my opinion the best way to manage nutsedge in a vegetable garden. You just have to be patient and leave some areas fallow for a year while the fabric does its work. I suggest laying a thick layer of leaves on the soil surface and then laying the fabric over the top. The leaves will decompose so when the fabric is removed the soil can be tilled up and planted. Then move to a new area the next year. Experiment with this technique to see how it works for you and if a year proves to be long enough to kill the tubers or if the tilling brings up some deep buried tubers that did not yet sprout. I think you'll find it to be very effective. Should some nutsedge show its ugly head you know what to do, right?