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Living organic soil from start through recycling

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alright. cool. so none of my shit is worth a fuck in your eyes. this is beginning to seem just like the hydro store runaround.... you tell someone what you have, and of course its shit. because its not what you are using....

so how about a new game. instead of telling me what not to use (that list will be huge) how about some direction to lead me to a product i can count on.
 
i sourced out my mineral mix, saw the mix that kisorganics sells, so i got the shit thats in it somewhere else i found cheaper for me. i wanted to buy from kis, but the shipping is just too much, so im using my employee "special order" privilege,...

also will be setting out the cotton seed and the green sand...... but im keeping the feather meal because i JUST bought it from a local michigan organics company i wanted to try. (same place i got the granular humic and alfalfa)

also....... just checked the cabinet, the cotton seed meal i have thats redish is an old bag i got from a buddy, i have another bag from espoma..... just opened it up and it looked different. not red or orange at all. darker
 
the old cup-o-water method may be slow at times,sometime it takes less than a week,other times i have had cuts hang out for two months before rooting...i think i will try some ful-power as i have a freebie bottle of that here...


Hey man, I don't think anyone in the crew actually clones in a cup of water w/ aloe, coconut,protekt, fulvic. I believe they merely soak the clones in a cup of the solution for 24-48hrs. I soak rapid rooters overnight and clone directly into them. Usually have roots in 9-12 days. If I use plain water with the rooters it usually takes over 2 weeks and the clones start to appear unhealthy. With the solution all clones are dark green and chock full of roots.

On another note. I skipped ahead a few chapters in my Gardening textbook and it mentioned that leaves actually contain a growth inhibitor. I had been using some as a mulch for my plants, didn't see any negative impact, but I'm stopping this practice immediately. Best to make leaf mold/compost out em...I guess. I'm talking about leaves from trees in my backyard. Just curious to hear anyone's experience on the matter.
RD
 

Neo 420

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alright. cool. so none of my shit is worth a fuck in your eyes. this is beginning to seem just like the hydro store runaround.... you tell someone what you have, and of course its shit. because its not what you are using....

Hay slow down bro...... I also made the mistake of buying cottonseed too.(i used it in the outdoor garden thankfully). Just because the is a organic style of growing doesn't make it easy. Quality inputs are vital (as well as EWC and compost) and we here strive to "weed" out the items we know are usually suspect.

Now you can certainly go ahead and use the cottonseed. Would I use it? No. But use what you have to especially if your pockets are hurt'in.
 

ColorGRo

Member
Is there any way to saturate my soil with a "tea" type mix with out having a pump for brewer.my pump broke and i just mixed a soil and don't know what i should do.
 

ColorGRo

Member
So 1 cubic foot is about 7.5 gallons correct? I have a 1cu ft of Premier Sphagnum Peat Moss but when i measure It out I'm getting about 15 gallons? I'm confused
 

ClackamasCootz

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Has anyone looked into the Luebke compost method? Pretty impressive claims for actual humus building.

http://www.ibiblio.org/steved/Luebke/Luebke-compost2.html

I really like the idea of combining compost with minerals.
YosemiteSam

Microbeman provided that link on another venue a couple of years ago and I began to use the Canadian glacial rock dust in my compost recipe as well as an addition to the vermicompost set-ups.

Since I started doing this, the Basalt rock dust from Eastern Oregon became available and that's what I'm using these days.

CC
 
Y

YosemiteSam

so do you use 10% clay (and can that be soft rock phosphate), do you include 10% compost and do you innoculate it all with a tea?

I see Nutri Tech doing a very similar thing...layers of basalt, srp, something else I forget...then a compost tea on that. And that is used to innoculate fields.

Suppose to be a very strong synergy between the minerals and compost this way.

edit...I think the third ingredient is coal...the leonardite (no clue on spelling that word) stuff
 

ClackamasCootz

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Cann

RE: Neem or Karanja Oils

I can't find your original post so I'll do the whole recipe.

1 tablespoon of oil
2 teaspoons of Pro-TeKt

Stir that until the oil loses all clarity and color will change to ochre - at this point the oil is fully emulsified.

Add that to 1 gallon of tepid water (75 - 85F) and shake to get the emulsified oil completely dispersed. If you use cold water then the oil will coagulate which is not what you want.

Then add your surfactant - yucca extract, aloe vera, whatever. Shake the container again to kick-start the foaming action of the Saponins. You won't get too much with aloe vera (20,000 ppm) but it will help.

Spray at the end of the light cycle and start at the bottom of the plant and work to the top hitting every leaf, branch and stalk completely and totally until the leaves are hanging like it needs to be watered.

That's it!

CC
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
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Is there any way to saturate my soil with a "tea" type mix with out having a pump for brewer.my pump broke and i just mixed a soil and don't know what i should do.

Why do you wish to saturate a soil mix with 'tea' before there are plants in it? If you wish to stimulate microbial activity and you have some [vermi]compost in your mix, just dilute black strap molasses at around 0.25% and dampen the mix with that.
 

ClackamasCootz

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edit...I think the third ingredient is coal...the leonardite (no clue on spelling that word) stuff
I don't use Leonardite or even leonardite but many people do believing that it's Humic acid or whatever claim is being made currently.

Hit Alibaba.com and type in Leonardite and you can see why I don't and won't use it. It's a real mess.

CC
 
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