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Living organic soil from start through recycling

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rrog

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"Activated" charcoal I thought meant the various molecules that may be adsorbed to the carbon have been heated and removed, thereby starting with a clean slate. Like you could take old used carbon and re-activate with another pyrolysis run.
 

Coba

Well-known member
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"Activated" charcoal I thought meant the various molecules that may be adsorbed to the carbon have been heated and removed, thereby starting with a clean slate. Like you could take old used carbon and re-activate with another pyrolysis run.


rrog,

would an acid treatment, like say an hour long soak in apple cider vinegar, help remove the adsorbed molecules to re-activate the carbon?
 

rrog

Active member
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Coba, I think there's an acid treatment for carbon. Not sure if that's designed to re-activate, hyper-activate or if I'm just hallucinating.

I would think any such thing would require a stronger acid, however
 

Coba

Well-known member
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I was thinking of re-purposing the once activated carbon in my turtle's aquarium filters... and the carbon in my fan/filter combo.
 

rrog

Active member
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Carbon for air (vapor) filtration is a different size than carbon for water. Ideally for vapor you are looking at a 4x8 screen mesh size. Smaller for water.
 

Gascanastan

Gone but NOT forgotten...
Veteran
I've never bought the straight peat, because I was always under the assumption that I needed to lime and aerate it, and it was easier to just buy the pro mix which has everything pre-mixed, including the mycorrhizae.... I might just buy sphagnum next time since I am almost out of Pro Mix and see how it does.

...I used to do this exact same thing...until these two old farts got to me...

Now I feel totally comfortable buying a bail of peat and adding the drainage/aeration,and 'liming' myself....helps if you have a good source for pumice.

Seems it's a toss up between the cost of materials and labor...vs. a one-stop package.
 

ClackamasCootz

Expired
Veteran
Sphagnum Peat Moss

Bales are packed at harvesting site, i.e. no processing at all.

Material that will be used in mixes (Pro-Mix XXXXX or Sunshine Mix XXXX) is run through kilns to reduce the water content which results in increased load factor and to partially sterilize the peat moss.

When the dried, sterilized material hits the soil packing operations, it is chopped, screened to a consistent size and then re-hydrated for packing.

The mistake that many new growers make when mixing their own potting soils is mixing everything together and THEN begin to hydrate the entire mix. If they would follow the procedure used at the mixing plants, i.e. hydrate the peat moss first and then mix with the humus, aeration, etc. they would end up with a superior soil mix.

CC
 
D

Durdy

What are the benefits of wetting the base medium before adding everything else? Is it like when baking something you add the liquids first so everything else has an easier time getting mixed in? (also less gets stuck on the bottom of the bowl, don't think that applies here though......)
 

Gascanastan

Gone but NOT forgotten...
Veteran
...this is why I say rehydrate coco husk before mixing in a soil.
...yet I don't do it with the peat until the mix is mixed and stuffed in pots....then I water and let 'em sit for the breakdown..if they need more water the next day I let them have it..BUT this is a different trip.

Considering something like a seedling mix with no added ferts....it would definitely be better to have the peat pre-moistened since re-hydrating particles of dried peat in a beer cup with a seedling wouldn't exactly be better for the health of the plant eh..
 

Coba

Well-known member
Veteran
hy·dro·pho·bic (hdr-fbk)
adj.
1. Repelling, tending not to combine with, or incapable of dissolving in water.

dry peat is hydrophibic. when pots get too dry the water finds the path of least resistance and channels right out of your pots every time you water.

I'm not familiar with fabric pots... but I assume water will "bead" with those as well.
 

ClackamasCootz

Expired
Veteran
Surfactants take care of the hydrophobic issues which is why they're used (as in always) at packing sheds.

Saponin = surfactant or wetting agent if you prefer that phrase

Veganically speaking of course if not parenthetically
 

Gascanastan

Gone but NOT forgotten...
Veteran
I've known some people that were hydrophobic...

...anyone spotting these special deals to the left of the forum index screen.....It's the dank G...I'd smoke that pot yeah hey huh...huh...huh...Dank~
 
C

CT Guy

For me, it isn't always practical to hydrate the peat prior to mixing, though I'm well aware of the fact it's hydrophobic. I typically will then water the finished soil mix very slowly over a period of a few days until I feel the mix is fully saturated.

Any issues with that Coot?
 

Gascanastan

Gone but NOT forgotten...
Veteran
the doctor is only $15! greenhouse seeds huh, didnt i see that guy on tv ;)


Imagine info. commercials for cannabis types......

"Billy Mays here...and have I got the most amazing thing yet to hit my brain since those Thai Sticks from the mid-70's..:bigeye:"

picture.php


...this could actually become reality here in Wa. state.....other than Billy Mays is pushing up daisies atm....
 

Tweetybird

Member
Don't you just have a huge dust storm then if the peat is dry? I try to at least have it damp to keep down the dust.

For me, it isn't always practical to hydrate the peat prior to mixing, though I'm well aware of the fact it's hydrophobic. I typically will then water the finished soil mix very slowly over a period of a few days until I feel the mix is fully saturated.

Any issues with that Coot?
 
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