TranceAddictT7
Member
Wow so many different methods. The only one I knew about was subcools and foxfarm. I use foxfarm soil myself. Does anyone have any experience with subcools method?
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List of different Soil Mixes---Soil Directory
- Thread starter joe fresh
- Start date
WillyNilly
Member
Very helpful - thanks Joe!!!!
C
chazz michaels
Thanks Joe.
I thought I was an ok grower, without having much knowledge....
but recently having weak seedlings and struggling to fix them makes me think I have no clue what I am doing?
I thought I was an ok grower, without having much knowledge....
but recently having weak seedlings and struggling to fix them makes me think I have no clue what I am doing?
TradingBeanz
Member
Kelp definitely helps throughout the grow. I, myself have been quite sceptical about things such as the bat guana. With the popularity I would definitely want to buy from a reliable vendor.
I am excited to learn more about diatomite and diatoms, all in all.
Hello all, I'm looking for a recommendation. My grow is organic. I want to only use Tea. Meaning I want my soil to be packed and ready to go(kind of like the three bag Fox Farm mix at the begining of this thread)for the duration of my grow. I intend to use a SOG method. Taking the clones almost straight to flower. Oh yes, I will also be doing this with a aquaponics system. I would like to make it a vegan soil mix if at all possible.
Any suggestions or comments are always appreciated.
Any suggestions or comments are always appreciated.
I
Inspired333
This list is craaazy, thanks OP!
-Just looking for a 'supersoil' type recipe; see if I can get the same/similar ingredients locally.
This list is info overload
Thanks again.
-Just looking for a 'supersoil' type recipe; see if I can get the same/similar ingredients locally.
This list is info overload
Thanks again.
bluhazy
Active member
thx to the OP and all the contribution in this topic. I am recycling used organic sub and going for 3littlebird recipe with some variation.
60/70 L used organic sub ( 50 % cocco and sepiolite e 50% peat based organic sub )
10 L fresh peat based organic sub
20 L coco chips
10 liter compost
5 L sepiolite
5 dl polvere di alghe
2,5 dl blod meal
2,5 dl neem cake
3 dl rock powder
2,5 dl P guano
2 dl bone meal
2,5 dl wood ash
6 dl dolomite lime
2 dl epsom salt
The sub is ''cooking'' rigth now , keep you updated on the results
Bless BH
60/70 L used organic sub ( 50 % cocco and sepiolite e 50% peat based organic sub )
10 L fresh peat based organic sub
20 L coco chips
10 liter compost
5 L sepiolite
5 dl polvere di alghe
2,5 dl blod meal
2,5 dl neem cake
3 dl rock powder
2,5 dl P guano
2 dl bone meal
2,5 dl wood ash
6 dl dolomite lime
2 dl epsom salt
The sub is ''cooking'' rigth now , keep you updated on the results
Bless BH
Here is a mix in tempted to use. Why? Because its what I have on hand.
1 part black gold potting mix
1 part Fox farm original planting mix
1 part Fox farm ocean forest
1 part large chunky perlite
Was only going to use a compost tea once a week(the mix is sold by KIS and I have purchased there upgraded compost tea brewer).
My watering method is a vague area for me and am considering 2.5ml/gal Dutch master root zone conditioner along with Flora nova bloom at 1/2 tsp per gal. This mix would be brought down to 5.6-5.8 pH from my municipals 7.6 tap water. I would use this mix from veg through flower.
I'm sure there are a lot of opinions and am open to all. The response to this I am hoping will guide me through to a good harvest.
My lights are HGl's SOL series and I am using air pots.
1 part black gold potting mix
1 part Fox farm original planting mix
1 part Fox farm ocean forest
1 part large chunky perlite
Was only going to use a compost tea once a week(the mix is sold by KIS and I have purchased there upgraded compost tea brewer).
My watering method is a vague area for me and am considering 2.5ml/gal Dutch master root zone conditioner along with Flora nova bloom at 1/2 tsp per gal. This mix would be brought down to 5.6-5.8 pH from my municipals 7.6 tap water. I would use this mix from veg through flower.
I'm sure there are a lot of opinions and am open to all. The response to this I am hoping will guide me through to a good harvest.
My lights are HGl's SOL series and I am using air pots.
Speed Racer
Member
High inspired333 and others. Lots to chose from for sure. I tried the supersoil recipe and thought can be too hot depending on the plant and better to start with a lighter mix and add if and when needed with teas. I am wanting to start a small worm bin for teas, eventually doing 2 worm castings; one for grow with more N and a bloom castings depending on what I feed the worms. For now bagged stuff works. Below is a recipe I am now using(the organic) and like alot though always learning and tweeking it and depending on strain. Have a great summer. peace...
SR
Inorganic
- Mix: Promix HP(high porosity) blend. If using ro or distilled water; add 1 tsp dolomite lime, Oyster shell flour and azomite to each gallon promix or use cal magic when watering if needed. Mix well in tub. If using tap or other check ppm with ppm meter first and don't add cal/mag to promix or to water. Make sure and get a very good runoff the first time wetting the mix and regularly(10-15%) to keep from salt and nute buildup in mix.
- Nutes: NSR Greenleaves, grow and bloom. Start with ¼ the amount in 2-3 weeks veg and then ½ and full amount when in bloom depending on plants needs. Stop all nutes 3-4 weeks before harvest and just water. Better results if using worm tea periodically and molasses too at ½ to 1 tsp gallon water. You want some yellowing leaves at the end. If all still green at the end it means to much N and will be harsher and less tasty and may be less potent.
- Worm tea(optional for inorganic, but suggested): 1 tbsp quality worm castings, 1 tsp Humbolt honey ES or molasses and 1 tsp kelp meal(optional). Bubble in a gallon of water for 24-36 hours and ready to go. Can triple recipe and then dilute with 2/3 water for doing more plants. Less when in veg and more in bloom. Can also just top dress with castings and use molasses every 3rd water or can use every time in smaller doses, say 1/2-1tsp molasses gallon. I do like the ES Honey and more than just molasses with added Volcanic Ash, Yucca extract, Seaplant Extract, Quillaja saponaria, and Montmorillonite.
Organic
- Mix: Promix HP(high porosity) blend or BX blend and add own perlite. If using ro or distilled water; add 1 tsp dolomite lime/calcite, Oyster shell flour and azomite to each gallon promix. Mix well in tub. If using tap or other check ppm with ppm meter and don't add cal/mag to promix. Make sure and get a good runoff(10-15%) the first time wetting the mix and periodically to keep from salt and nute buildup in mix.
I use Humbolt Earth soil and Compost. Mix both together in equal amounts, 2 ½ gallons each for 5 gallons total soil. Then add to 5 gallons soil(not promix); 1 cup Dr Earths Bud and bloom booster(4-10-7), ½ cup their fish meal(9-4-1), and 1/3 cup their Mex guano(10-3-1). Mix well while wearing mask.
Add 1 part of amended HE/compost soil mix to 5 or 6 parts of ready promix for a target of 400-600ppm soil mix to start with, depending on plant needs. Will need ppm meter to check soil runoff.
-Nutes: Don't add any nutes..., maybe a lite worm tea in veg and can add a little blood meal, fish meal, mex guano mix in late veg and up to 5-6 weeks bloom if needed and just top dress with a tsp to a tbsp(depending on pot size) of mixed dry ingredients on top of soil and mix in and then very lightly cover with promix and water as normal. You can make teas for quicker absorption and use a ppm meter to check ppm amounts. In bloom I add a tsp or more of Dr Earth fish bone meal(3-18-0) and even less Jamacain guano(0-10-0) 2-4 weeks in bloom and no more than twice depending on flower time. Also use 1 or 2 worm teas in bloom(recipe above).
- Potting: Use ph/nute free hydro growstones or rock(rinsed well) for 1-2 inch base in pot and lightly cover with finished mix and add tsp or so neem meal to base and mix in with added crushed mosquito dunks to keep out bottom bugs. Then fill to top with remaining soil. Add more crushed dunks especially around the edges and liberally to keep out pests. Re apply every 3 weeks. No ill effects except to bugs. Neem meal and even neem oil can be used on top or as drench if needed for pests. Wet mix initially very thoroughly the first time with good amount of runoff. Leave some room to add more topping later if wanted. Keep heat temps down(70-80) and lots of light and love.
*** Check into the new Promix HP/CC with chunky coir and tad cheaper too. One guy said amazing stuff and trying my next bag. peace...
- I want to say I am very sorry if anyone has any ph problem from too much dolomite lime and already did my recipe, but I used more dl to see and it will go over 7 ph. Can use phosphoric acid to lower ph or other if needed. Haven't seen any problems in grow, just bloom and now only recommend 1tsp not a tbsp a gallon or other cal/mag source can be used.
Inorganic
- Mix: Promix HP(high porosity) blend. If using ro or distilled water; add 1 tsp dolomite lime, Oyster shell flour and azomite to each gallon promix or use cal magic when watering if needed. Mix well in tub. If using tap or other check ppm with ppm meter first and don't add cal/mag to promix or to water. Make sure and get a very good runoff the first time wetting the mix and regularly(10-15%) to keep from salt and nute buildup in mix.
- Nutes: NSR Greenleaves, grow and bloom. Start with ¼ the amount in 2-3 weeks veg and then ½ and full amount when in bloom depending on plants needs. Stop all nutes 3-4 weeks before harvest and just water. Better results if using worm tea periodically and molasses too at ½ to 1 tsp gallon water. You want some yellowing leaves at the end. If all still green at the end it means to much N and will be harsher and less tasty and may be less potent.
- Worm tea(optional for inorganic, but suggested): 1 tbsp quality worm castings, 1 tsp Humbolt honey ES or molasses and 1 tsp kelp meal(optional). Bubble in a gallon of water for 24-36 hours and ready to go. Can triple recipe and then dilute with 2/3 water for doing more plants. Less when in veg and more in bloom. Can also just top dress with castings and use molasses every 3rd water or can use every time in smaller doses, say 1/2-1tsp molasses gallon. I do like the ES Honey and more than just molasses with added Volcanic Ash, Yucca extract, Seaplant Extract, Quillaja saponaria, and Montmorillonite.
Organic
- Mix: Promix HP(high porosity) blend or BX blend and add own perlite. If using ro or distilled water; add 1 tsp dolomite lime/calcite, Oyster shell flour and azomite to each gallon promix. Mix well in tub. If using tap or other check ppm with ppm meter and don't add cal/mag to promix. Make sure and get a good runoff(10-15%) the first time wetting the mix and periodically to keep from salt and nute buildup in mix.
I use Humbolt Earth soil and Compost. Mix both together in equal amounts, 2 ½ gallons each for 5 gallons total soil. Then add to 5 gallons soil(not promix); 1 cup Dr Earths Bud and bloom booster(4-10-7), ½ cup their fish meal(9-4-1), and 1/3 cup their Mex guano(10-3-1). Mix well while wearing mask.
Add 1 part of amended HE/compost soil mix to 5 or 6 parts of ready promix for a target of 400-600ppm soil mix to start with, depending on plant needs. Will need ppm meter to check soil runoff.
-Nutes: Don't add any nutes..., maybe a lite worm tea in veg and can add a little blood meal, fish meal, mex guano mix in late veg and up to 5-6 weeks bloom if needed and just top dress with a tsp to a tbsp(depending on pot size) of mixed dry ingredients on top of soil and mix in and then very lightly cover with promix and water as normal. You can make teas for quicker absorption and use a ppm meter to check ppm amounts. In bloom I add a tsp or more of Dr Earth fish bone meal(3-18-0) and even less Jamacain guano(0-10-0) 2-4 weeks in bloom and no more than twice depending on flower time. Also use 1 or 2 worm teas in bloom(recipe above).
- Potting: Use ph/nute free hydro growstones or rock(rinsed well) for 1-2 inch base in pot and lightly cover with finished mix and add tsp or so neem meal to base and mix in with added crushed mosquito dunks to keep out bottom bugs. Then fill to top with remaining soil. Add more crushed dunks especially around the edges and liberally to keep out pests. Re apply every 3 weeks. No ill effects except to bugs. Neem meal and even neem oil can be used on top or as drench if needed for pests. Wet mix initially very thoroughly the first time with good amount of runoff. Leave some room to add more topping later if wanted. Keep heat temps down(70-80) and lots of light and love.
*** Check into the new Promix HP/CC with chunky coir and tad cheaper too. One guy said amazing stuff and trying my next bag. peace...
- I want to say I am very sorry if anyone has any ph problem from too much dolomite lime and already did my recipe, but I used more dl to see and it will go over 7 ph. Can use phosphoric acid to lower ph or other if needed. Haven't seen any problems in grow, just bloom and now only recommend 1tsp not a tbsp a gallon or other cal/mag source can be used.
Last edited:
Speed Racer
Member
Someone commented in my ic about never needing a silly ppm or ph meter with organics. Yes, you can get by and even never have problems if you have a great dialed in soil already and/or you know already what to add and how much per gallon of soil etc, but for any newbies or otherwise, a ppm meter and ph meter are a great tool to know the specifics of your soil and teas ppm and ph which is very important, not silly. You either have a great soil to start with by chance or went off some sort of recipe so that ph and ppm are already good to go. I am glad I got meters as I would have never known how hot the Humbolt earth is and my last bag was over 2,000ppm and never knew till got the meter. Besides not all bought premixed organic soils are exact bag to bag I'd presume and think the meters definately come in handy and for any teas I try so not to over do it with ph or ppm. I am glad you have a great soil and feel you will never need any meter, but have a friend like you that grows without meters and his plants are nice and green throughout, but too green at the end and his smoke, some same strains I have, are never potent like mine and even given his buds back to him after trying it. All the best in your grows. peace... 
SR
SR
LOL - That would be me. I've grown without any meters ever since I quit aeroponic tubes.
The plant is my meter. It tells me exactly what I need to know. If it is too hot...if it can take more, etc, etc...Learn how to read the plant and you won't need to read meters.
And you don't flush organic soil. Just doesn't work that way. How are you going to break all the ionic bonds of the nutrients that have been processed by the soil food web? Even more so, how are you going to prevent the fauna from decomposing more raw amendments? You can't - not by flushing.
That doesn't mean you can't get a clean harvest, you just have to know what you are doing...
No meters, no problem:
And on a side thought,
What good does knowing the PPM of a store bought soil do - if you have no idea where the salts are derived from? All you know then is it's a strong mix - not if it has too much N, P, K, Mg, Ca, etc. A proper soil test will go 100x further than any meter ever will...
There are MANY mixes listed in this very thread for anyone to go from beginner to advanced virtually over night...
You are not going to convince any of the organic growers here that we need meters. We are loooooooong past those days.
If you find some use for them - more power to you!
dank.Frank
The plant is my meter. It tells me exactly what I need to know. If it is too hot...if it can take more, etc, etc...Learn how to read the plant and you won't need to read meters.
And you don't flush organic soil. Just doesn't work that way. How are you going to break all the ionic bonds of the nutrients that have been processed by the soil food web? Even more so, how are you going to prevent the fauna from decomposing more raw amendments? You can't - not by flushing.
That doesn't mean you can't get a clean harvest, you just have to know what you are doing...
No meters, no problem:
And on a side thought,
What good does knowing the PPM of a store bought soil do - if you have no idea where the salts are derived from? All you know then is it's a strong mix - not if it has too much N, P, K, Mg, Ca, etc. A proper soil test will go 100x further than any meter ever will...
There are MANY mixes listed in this very thread for anyone to go from beginner to advanced virtually over night...
You are not going to convince any of the organic growers here that we need meters. We are loooooooong past those days.
If you find some use for them - more power to you!
dank.Frank
Speed Racer
Member
High df and didn't know if you ic'd me to stay private, but apparently not. I don't see where I recommend to flush, as I also think not necessary if nutes are used up naturally especially N which I see from your pic she has no extra N left to hurt flavor etc.
I do agree a good soil test can tell exact npk, but don't have that option, but can at least know how hot it is so not to burn them. I am also experimenting with different teas and can add exact npk nute ratios and then ppm/ph to be exact and why not when it cost me only $40 per meter. I saw your mix and sounds good, but you say local nursery soil which can vary widely for peeps everywhere. In my mix I use a great local compost, but want to do my own eventually so again to be more exact in my ingredients. When I buy anything from the store or nursery they are ultimately interested in my money to where when(someday) I can do all my own stuff, I do it only for quality. So your mix is only as good as your local place makes it. My ultimate goal is to have all my own ingredients and most nothing store bought. Growing a long time does mean something, but can also mean your set in your ways like my uncle(another story). I did find lots of info in Jf's intial post of recipes and look forward to some experiments myself. I do know my shit now is bangin' potency wise and don't want to change too much if anything at all, but thanx for your input. peace... SR
I do agree a good soil test can tell exact npk, but don't have that option, but can at least know how hot it is so not to burn them. I am also experimenting with different teas and can add exact npk nute ratios and then ppm/ph to be exact and why not when it cost me only $40 per meter. I saw your mix and sounds good, but you say local nursery soil which can vary widely for peeps everywhere. In my mix I use a great local compost, but want to do my own eventually so again to be more exact in my ingredients. When I buy anything from the store or nursery they are ultimately interested in my money to where when(someday) I can do all my own stuff, I do it only for quality. So your mix is only as good as your local place makes it. My ultimate goal is to have all my own ingredients and most nothing store bought. Growing a long time does mean something, but can also mean your set in your ways like my uncle(another story). I did find lots of info in Jf's intial post of recipes and look forward to some experiments myself. I do know my shit now is bangin' potency wise and don't want to change too much if anything at all, but thanx for your input. peace...
SR
Have not used this mix yet, looking for feedback:
20% high quality worm castings
10% decomposed oak leaf compost
30% drainage (pumice/red lava)
30% coco coir
10% amendments (not sure on amounts yet) rice hulls, azomite, dolomite lime, gypsum, oyster shell flour, zeolite (200 lbs. or so on hand), neem meal, native clay, possibly some meals and other amendments need to research more...
Are there any noticeable issues with this recipe, would YOU tweak it in any way?
I want to use coco coir because that is what is available to be cheaply at the moment will it work in this case as a substitute for peat moss?
thinking about holes in the ground...
20% high quality worm castings
10% decomposed oak leaf compost
30% drainage (pumice/red lava)
30% coco coir
10% amendments (not sure on amounts yet) rice hulls, azomite, dolomite lime, gypsum, oyster shell flour, zeolite (200 lbs. or so on hand), neem meal, native clay, possibly some meals and other amendments need to research more...
Are there any noticeable issues with this recipe, would YOU tweak it in any way?
I want to use coco coir because that is what is available to be cheaply at the moment will it work in this case as a substitute for peat moss?
thinking about holes in the ground...
BigBozat
Member
FWIW, I've used these components to mix 3 diff. soils for 1) Germination/Early Seedling, 2) Transition (Veg), and 3) Flowering:
Bozat's BarcaSoils
Makes roughly 3.25cf of ea. (9.75cf total)
[Units in cf, unless otherwise specified; ---- means none or n/a]
- Component & Ttl amt, Germ amt, Trans amt, Flower amt
- Pro-Mix All-Purpose 1.08cf, 0.25, 0.33, 0.5
- Coco Coir (Mother Earth) 1.75cf, 1, 0.5, 0.25
- Perlite 0.54cf, 0.18, 0.18, 0.18
- Vermiculite 0.54cf, 0.18, 0.18, 0.18
- FF Light Warrior 1.25cf, 0.75, 0.5, ----
- FF Ocean Forest 1.25cf, ----, 0.5, 0.75
- Schultz Orchid Exotic 0.54cf, 0.18, 0.18, 0.18
- Humus (Ancient Forest) 0.5cf, 0.17, 0.17, 0.17
- EWC (Wiggle Worm) 15lbs, 5lbs, 5lbs, 5lbs
- Mushroom Compost 0.75cf, 0.25, 0.25, 0.25
- Composted Cow Manure 0.75cf, ----, 0.25, 0.5
- Paver's Sand 30lbs, 10lbs, 10lbs, 10lbs
- Greensand 6lbs, 2lbs, 2lbs, 2lbs
- AZOMITE 2lbs, 0.67lbs, 0.67lbs, 0.67lbs
- Diat. Earth (Garden Safe) 4lbs, 1.3lbs, 1.3lbs, 1.3lbs
- Dolomitic Limestone Powder 9 cups, 3 cups, 3 cups, 3 cups
- Espoma Organic Plan-tone 4lbs, ----, 1lb, 3lbs
- Nature's Harvest Kelp & Crab Meals [None for Germ... Depends on strain for Trans & Flower mixes]
- Mycorrhizae & Beneficial Bacteria [Depends on source/spore count]
The Schultz Orchid Exotic is my biochar substitute (can't find decent local source of biochar only) (and adds composted conifer bark & lava pumice/fired ceramic granules to the biochar).
May add, e.g., a high-nitro bat guano to the Trans/Veg (0.75lbs) & Flower (1.5lbs) mixes and/or high-phos bat guano to the Flower mix (2.2lbs), depending on strain & what I'm planning to feed the soil later with AACTs & supplements during the grow.
Bozat's BarcaSoils
Makes roughly 3.25cf of ea. (9.75cf total)
[Units in cf, unless otherwise specified; ---- means none or n/a]
- Component & Ttl amt, Germ amt, Trans amt, Flower amt
- Pro-Mix All-Purpose 1.08cf, 0.25, 0.33, 0.5
- Coco Coir (Mother Earth) 1.75cf, 1, 0.5, 0.25
- Perlite 0.54cf, 0.18, 0.18, 0.18
- Vermiculite 0.54cf, 0.18, 0.18, 0.18
- FF Light Warrior 1.25cf, 0.75, 0.5, ----
- FF Ocean Forest 1.25cf, ----, 0.5, 0.75
- Schultz Orchid Exotic 0.54cf, 0.18, 0.18, 0.18
- Humus (Ancient Forest) 0.5cf, 0.17, 0.17, 0.17
- EWC (Wiggle Worm) 15lbs, 5lbs, 5lbs, 5lbs
- Mushroom Compost 0.75cf, 0.25, 0.25, 0.25
- Composted Cow Manure 0.75cf, ----, 0.25, 0.5
- Paver's Sand 30lbs, 10lbs, 10lbs, 10lbs
- Greensand 6lbs, 2lbs, 2lbs, 2lbs
- AZOMITE 2lbs, 0.67lbs, 0.67lbs, 0.67lbs
- Diat. Earth (Garden Safe) 4lbs, 1.3lbs, 1.3lbs, 1.3lbs
- Dolomitic Limestone Powder 9 cups, 3 cups, 3 cups, 3 cups
- Espoma Organic Plan-tone 4lbs, ----, 1lb, 3lbs
- Nature's Harvest Kelp & Crab Meals [None for Germ... Depends on strain for Trans & Flower mixes]
- Mycorrhizae & Beneficial Bacteria [Depends on source/spore count]
The Schultz Orchid Exotic is my biochar substitute (can't find decent local source of biochar only) (and adds composted conifer bark & lava pumice/fired ceramic granules to the biochar).
May add, e.g., a high-nitro bat guano to the Trans/Veg (0.75lbs) & Flower (1.5lbs) mixes and/or high-phos bat guano to the Flower mix (2.2lbs), depending on strain & what I'm planning to feed the soil later with AACTs & supplements during the grow.
BigBozat
Member
AZOMITE = Yes :yay:
Tons o' trace minerals.
'Nuff said.
Dolomitic limestone (pref. flour) = maybe...
- Yes, if the rest of the mix comes out acidic... which may depend on what the pH of your oak leaf compost is.
- Maybe, if pH is OK & you're otherwise in need of Cal+Mag.
- Maybe not, if your mix comes out neutral (7.0) or (esp. if oyster shell flour goes in) even goes basic... in that case, you might want to amend with something that'll drop pH into a better zone (either lots of organic matter/compost, elemental sulphur (be careful
), or nitrogen/ammonium fertilizers). EWC is generally neutral to only barely/slightly acidic, pumice is usu. neutral ('tho there are some mined deposits that have high pH probs), and most cocos are pH-adjusted to something in the 6 ~ 6.8 range. (Gypsum, BTW/FWIW, has no effect on soil pH)
My guess is your mix probably leans toward neutral/slightly acidic, and could go basic w/ too much, e.g., oyster shell flour (or weirdness like pumice from a high pH deposit or poorly-adjusted coco coir). Probably have plenty of buffering capacity, so you don't have to be pH perfect like w/ hydro, but you prolly don't want to further bump pH out of the zone if you don't have to...
Zeolite, IDK... from what I only now am reading, I understand it has good water-holding properties & high cation exchange... and a particular type of zeolite - Clinoptilolite - is sold as a fertilizer component (because of its affinity to ammonia?). But, I just don't know... the alumina in its structure bothers me (cannabis doesn't tolerate Al well), and I just don't know enough about it (how/how quickly it degrades & whether there are any residual Al products that might be toxic or only tolerated by particular types of plants/crops)...
Neem meal I have zero knowledge of/experience with... I get that you're thinking insect control for outdoors, but otherwise as Sargent Schultz likes to say: I know nothink! (I only grow indoors)
Go low on the clay (not more than, e.g., half of your amendments at most, pref. less IMO)...
As far as maybe missing things/gaps:
Peat? Usu. is pH'd to low~mid 6s, might provide some acidic counterbalance... I know, I know, you said coco was in lieu of peat & cheap avail source right now...
Nutes? For meals, I'd suggest:
- Alfalfa meal
- Kelp meal
Also, some Greensand...
No nitro anywhere? (Or is that coming from fertigation?)
How about some high N bat guano... cannabis needs lots of N...
Also, would highly recommend inoculating your mix with [endo]mycorrhizal fungi and some beneficial bacteria. Makes a difference (most of the soilless mix companies do it for that reason [not to mention for the marketing sizzle]).
Thought I would post up the best first year soil mix I have found to date. 15 years of searching and I am sum-what happy with my first year soil.
Here is what I put into my soil this year: (exactly)
6.7 Yards of Peat
4 yards Bu Blend Bio Dynamic Dairy Cow Manure
2 yards Buckaroo EWC
6 yards red lava rock 5/16
2 yards sandy Loam
80lbs Neam Seed meal
100lbs Kelp Meal
120lbs crab meal
120lbs Gypsum
100lbs oyster shell lime
400lbs Glacial rock dust
170lbs cascade minerals
200lbs Azomite powder
100lbs fish bone meal 3-16-0
Here are my soil results from Logan Lab
Not bad at all on paper for a first year soil. It has it's problems but with feeding only tea's (execpt 2 plants) this soil has produced some super healthy, rapid growing, cannabis plants.
Here is what I put into my soil this year: (exactly)
6.7 Yards of Peat
4 yards Bu Blend Bio Dynamic Dairy Cow Manure
2 yards Buckaroo EWC
6 yards red lava rock 5/16
2 yards sandy Loam
80lbs Neam Seed meal
100lbs Kelp Meal
120lbs crab meal
120lbs Gypsum
100lbs oyster shell lime
400lbs Glacial rock dust
170lbs cascade minerals
200lbs Azomite powder
100lbs fish bone meal 3-16-0
Here are my soil results from Logan Lab
Not bad at all on paper for a first year soil. It has it's problems but with feeding only tea's (execpt 2 plants) this soil has produced some super healthy, rapid growing, cannabis plants.
