about 40cm away from the light...ppm is??..dont have tester...i just feed them by instructions on the bottle...nutes are from bionova..supermix+pk 13-14..every 3h for 10minutes with a dripping sistem..5.1ph is just after i add a ph-...then is starts to rise...need to correct twice in a day period...
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Let's see and hear about your sick plants!!
- Thread starter Gypsy Nirvana
- Start date
1977m
1977m
With out a PPM Meter you are flying blind.
Bionova is a fine product form everything I've heard.
If your adjusting the PH twice a day Stop!
After you add the nutes, mix it up a bit and wait a few hours and check it again. Add PH Down if needed ,Don't try to be Exact untill you get a feel for how much Up or Down ( Mostly Down ) is needed to move the PH a certain amount. Wait about 24 hours and check it again, it should be fairly stable.
Do you use Air Stones in your res? Keep your res water mixing as much air as possible 24/7.
Some Strains like High concentrations of nutes, others will Burn and prefer lower Parts Per Million of nutrients. Some Love Nitrogen and others crave Calcium and Magnesium.... So the Bottle is a good starting point but not written in stone and maybe for Tomatoes and not your Herb.
Try lowering it some see if they improve....... not that they are all that bad now. They will survive either way I think... just be more healthy and produce more budage
Keep it Green
Sin
1977m
With out a PPM Meter you are flying blind.
Bionova is a fine product form everything I've heard.
If your adjusting the PH twice a day Stop!
After you add the nutes, mix it up a bit and wait a few hours and check it again. Add PH Down if needed ,Don't try to be Exact untill you get a feel for how much Up or Down ( Mostly Down ) is needed to move the PH a certain amount. Wait about 24 hours and check it again, it should be fairly stable.
Do you use Air Stones in your res? Keep your res water mixing as much air as possible 24/7.
Some Strains like High concentrations of nutes, others will Burn and prefer lower Parts Per Million of nutrients. Some Love Nitrogen and others crave Calcium and Magnesium.... So the Bottle is a good starting point but not written in stone and maybe for Tomatoes and not your Herb.
Try lowering it some see if they improve....... not that they are all that bad now. They will survive either way I think... just be more healthy and produce more budage
Keep it Green
Sin
Korhash
Member
PH problems!!! I am watering with H2O with a ph of 6.5 - 6.6... I just checked the water that comes out of the bottom of the pots. The ph has dropped to 4.6 - 4.7... This seems to be a real problem. I have not used any nutes on my water. Should I just give them a good flush and wait to see if they clear up or should I add some ph up to my H2O?
G
Guest
dont use ph up... just a temp fix and will drop right back down.... i take 2tbsp of dolomite lime per gallon of water, mix it up and let sit for 12hours min. carefully water without disturbing sediment or filter. should solve your problem quickly and for good. next grow mix 1tbsp per gallon of soil to prevent proble from occuring. it caused from the peat in the soil breaking down and dropping your ph.
G
Guest
hello freinds, i have some sour bub's at day 18 and checked the soil ph. its 5.5 for most. how do i fix this, as they are still in 1 qt containers. my water is 6.5 .dont have good acess to lime, but might be able to find it, as i am in the jungle. thanks everyone!!! puravida
G
Guest
My contribution
My contribution
This shite has happened to me more than once and i cannot figure out what it could be.
Usually turns up at week 7 of 12/12 (hydro grows, on soil grow wk 5).
Cause: addition of PK in combination with Canna Aqua and phosphoric acid ph down.
Major toxity with lockout of micro elements like Mg, iron and zinc..
My contribution
This shite has happened to me more than once and i cannot figure out what it could be.
Usually turns up at week 7 of 12/12 (hydro grows, on soil grow wk 5).
Cause: addition of PK in combination with Canna Aqua and phosphoric acid ph down.
Major toxity with lockout of micro elements like Mg, iron and zinc..
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G
Guest
Hi guys
I don't think I've a prob but the bottom leaves are are a bit dried up and crumbly otherwise they look good, a couple days back the light were a bit to low. I'm going 12/12 today Am I okay ??
I don't think I've a prob but the bottom leaves are are a bit dried up and crumbly otherwise they look good, a couple days back the light were a bit to low. I'm going 12/12 today Am I okay ??
purpleshorty
New member
Need some help from the pros.
My setup is DWC in a c13 cabinet. The plant is about 4 wks. I just transplanted 5 days ago.
The cab is at 76 degrees
Water temp is 71 degrees
PH is at 5.6
Humidity is at 44%
My PPM is at 570
I'm using General hydroponics flora ferts.
3 parts gro
2 parts micro
1 part bloom
Any ideas what i'm missing?
My setup is DWC in a c13 cabinet. The plant is about 4 wks. I just transplanted 5 days ago.
The cab is at 76 degrees
Water temp is 71 degrees
PH is at 5.6
Humidity is at 44%
My PPM is at 570
I'm using General hydroponics flora ferts.
3 parts gro
2 parts micro
1 part bloom
Any ideas what i'm missing?
Hello all,
I am at my wits end.
This is looking like the third consecutive time I have fried my beans.
First some info.
My Seedling chamber is 16"x20"x27" tall. It has 198 watts of cfl's:
2-45 GE Wally world lights I don't know the color
4-27 watt LoA 5-pack and I don't know hte color but I recall they are different from one another 27800K comes to mind.
I have a 6" fan that blows across the tops towards the exhaust.
The cab is ventilated with a 265 cfm dayton on a speed control-there is positive ventilation.
The desklamp is a ghetto heater (60 watt).
OK, the temps are between 68*F to 78*F.
Humidty is a high rh 70% at the moment due to the weather-not to worried its too soon for humidty issues.
I germed them in the glass of water.
The seeds were planted in a mix of:
1 part Kellogg Patio Plus-a chicken/bat and worm shit-somewhat hot.
4 parts peat
1 part perlite (large)
It was premoistened with pH'ed water, superthrive @ 8 drops/gallon.
They were dry last night and got about 2 ounces of pH'ed water with a pinch of epson salts (my tap water is striped (sequestering agents) of calcium and magnesium).
As a sidenote, the last seedlings I cooked used a mix of:
2 part Kelloggs
1 part peat
1 part perlite
1/2 part washed mason sand ( I had it available)
They sprouted the last 3-4 days.
this is what they look like tonight:
WTF am I doing wrong? Do these look pale to you? The seedleaves seem to be paling quicker.
Any help appricated?
minds_I
I am at my wits end.
This is looking like the third consecutive time I have fried my beans.
First some info.
My Seedling chamber is 16"x20"x27" tall. It has 198 watts of cfl's:
2-45 GE Wally world lights I don't know the color
4-27 watt LoA 5-pack and I don't know hte color but I recall they are different from one another 27800K comes to mind.
I have a 6" fan that blows across the tops towards the exhaust.
The cab is ventilated with a 265 cfm dayton on a speed control-there is positive ventilation.
The desklamp is a ghetto heater (60 watt).
OK, the temps are between 68*F to 78*F.
Humidty is a high rh 70% at the moment due to the weather-not to worried its too soon for humidty issues.
I germed them in the glass of water.
The seeds were planted in a mix of:
1 part Kellogg Patio Plus-a chicken/bat and worm shit-somewhat hot.
4 parts peat
1 part perlite (large)
It was premoistened with pH'ed water, superthrive @ 8 drops/gallon.
They were dry last night and got about 2 ounces of pH'ed water with a pinch of epson salts (my tap water is striped (sequestering agents) of calcium and magnesium).
As a sidenote, the last seedlings I cooked used a mix of:
2 part Kelloggs
1 part peat
1 part perlite
1/2 part washed mason sand ( I had it available)
They sprouted the last 3-4 days.
this is what they look like tonight:
WTF am I doing wrong? Do these look pale to you? The seedleaves seem to be paling quicker.
Any help appricated?
minds_I
getafix
Member
Hi Guys,
I grow outdoors. The variety is Caramella from Homegrown Fantaseeds. I use Biobizz nutrients. The plant in question is vegging and is watered with Bio-grow, Fish mix and normal water in rotation.
The plant started turning white at the growing shoots from the middle of the leaves. It was a total white and not yellow. I suspected the water from the tap. I therefore chaged to miniral water. It seems to have helped, but the recovery is slow.
What do you think caused this? How can I avoid this without having to resort to expensive bottled water?
Peace
I grow outdoors. The variety is Caramella from Homegrown Fantaseeds. I use Biobizz nutrients. The plant in question is vegging and is watered with Bio-grow, Fish mix and normal water in rotation.
The plant started turning white at the growing shoots from the middle of the leaves. It was a total white and not yellow. I suspected the water from the tap. I therefore chaged to miniral water. It seems to have helped, but the recovery is slow.
What do you think caused this? How can I avoid this without having to resort to expensive bottled water?
Peace
G
Guest
i know i posted this somewhere else but im going crazy i don't knwo what to do and im worried that my grow will go to hell help me please im sooo close to cutting down....was it all going to be for nothing??
im having a problem with my leaves and i have about a week to go befor i cut down. what do i do???
heres some pics
that browning...the hell is it!!??!!??!!
i asked on my grow's thread but noone will answer me...hmmmm...
what do i do??!!?!
im freeking out about this because ive been waiting for this girl for so long and then a few days ago i noticed the browing and it started getting worse
so what do i do??? i was going to cut down at the end of this week..shes been flushing since 4/22/06....
i don't want to use chemicals because of odvious reasons (I DON"T WANNA INHALE THAT SHIT!!!) and i don't know wether just to wait it out or not..and, the plant behind it seems to be doing just fine! so...donno what to do please HELP!!!!!
THanks
-SenselessRebel
im having a problem with my leaves and i have about a week to go befor i cut down. what do i do???
heres some pics
that browning...the hell is it!!??!!??!!
i asked on my grow's thread but noone will answer me...hmmmm...
what do i do??!!?!
im freeking out about this because ive been waiting for this girl for so long and then a few days ago i noticed the browing and it started getting worse
so what do i do??? i was going to cut down at the end of this week..shes been flushing since 4/22/06....
i don't want to use chemicals because of odvious reasons (I DON"T WANNA INHALE THAT SHIT!!!) and i don't know wether just to wait it out or not..and, the plant behind it seems to be doing just fine! so...donno what to do please HELP!!!!!
THanks
-SenselessRebel
beachstoned
New member
Dust found on leaves during flowering stage
Dust found on leaves during flowering stage
It's been about 6 weeks of flowering and my plants look really healthy except for one thing, they have dust forming on their leaves, if any help i took some pictures with the lights off to show you what i see. They don't seem to be having any problems besides this so any help is greatly appreciated.
Dust found on leaves during flowering stage
It's been about 6 weeks of flowering and my plants look really healthy except for one thing, they have dust forming on their leaves, if any help i took some pictures with the lights off to show you what i see. They don't seem to be having any problems besides this so any help is greatly appreciated.
Bushmaster burn in coco
Bushmaster burn in coco
I do not have a picture yet but I did talk to the makers of Bushmaster and Gravity and found that my plants signs of illness are common for those using coco- I had 18-20 inch plants about two weeks into 12/12 in two gallon pots of 70% coco and 30% perlite when I dosed them with 5 ml a gallon three days ago-it took about two days to show that the major leaves rams horned-then all the leaves did and the plant overall became paler quickly. Not just the tips but the edges of all the major fam leaves have dry brown burn---only on the very very edges. I did flush them and the run off water is coming out 700 ppm witha 6.0 ph. I am inclined to foliar spray them with epsom salts----because it looks as if the calcium and magnexium got locked out. Any ideas on how light of a strength? I also have nitrozime and could use that too since that is a good stress reducer---I over nighted an order of Blast Off since the owner of the Bushmaster said that the glycine in that will be very healing. Please --- any ideas?
Bushmaster burn in coco
I do not have a picture yet but I did talk to the makers of Bushmaster and Gravity and found that my plants signs of illness are common for those using coco- I had 18-20 inch plants about two weeks into 12/12 in two gallon pots of 70% coco and 30% perlite when I dosed them with 5 ml a gallon three days ago-it took about two days to show that the major leaves rams horned-then all the leaves did and the plant overall became paler quickly. Not just the tips but the edges of all the major fam leaves have dry brown burn---only on the very very edges. I did flush them and the run off water is coming out 700 ppm witha 6.0 ph. I am inclined to foliar spray them with epsom salts----because it looks as if the calcium and magnexium got locked out. Any ideas on how light of a strength? I also have nitrozime and could use that too since that is a good stress reducer---I over nighted an order of Blast Off since the owner of the Bushmaster said that the glycine in that will be very healing. Please --- any ideas?
If you think you are low in calcium and magnesium, I would apply 1/3 teaspoon potassium nitrate + 1/4 teaspoon calcium nitrate + 1/4 epsom salts/magnesium sulfate per gallon of water (3.8L). This is very "healing" because it is all nitrate nitrogen and no ammonia or urea nitrogen. Use this for a couple of fertilizations. If you are certain that you have a magnesium deficiency and need a one time fix, I would drench the media with 1 to 2 teaspoons epsom salts per gallon of water (3.8L). This is fast acting...no need to foliar spray. Be sure to test the ph of your mixed nutrient solution and adjust not just measure runnoff ph. 
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Keefhead
Active member
You have PM, same as I do.beachstoned said:
My problem. I am running a 72-plant CAGE and beachstoned's pictures could have been mine, but to a lesser extent and seemingly localized so far. Maybe not, it's difficult to see the inside growth in a CAGE.
However, the cage prohibits access to the plants for washing down the leaves or even spraying them. So it looks like I am stuck with sulphur. I am now 4 weeks into 12/12, and I am concerned about the effect on the taste/quality of a sulphur burn or two now. On the other hand, let it go and it's a total loss anyway.
For the record, the RH was around 45%, the temps in the mid 80s, good air circulation, all the right things.
Any experience or suggestions out there folks?
Do I really look this nervous.
1 tablespoon baking soda per gallon of water would also control powdery mildew by changing the ph on the leaf surface. Some people add horticultural oil to this but I would not. Here's an article that gives a recipe with baking soda: http://www.gardenguides.com/articles/powderymildew.htm
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