cocogrower
Member
Haha. Yeah, it's My best bet by now! Very similar to your suggestion but with four channels. Thanks to both of you!
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Lets create the most effective cob light!
- Thread starter Thread starter cocogrower
- Start date Start date
Haha. Yeah, it's My best bet by now! Very similar to your suggestion but with four channels. Thanks to both of you!
cocogrower
Member
Ok, I'm not working very fast on this, but i am now very close to pulling the trigger on the one tenthirty sugested. but.. New question arises! :O How am i gonna dimm this beast. Most 1-10v dimmers either seem to be for low voltage, or very expensive.. I'm gonna look for my self, but if any one know were to find it, please let me know!
cocogrower
Member
Thank's 3Ddream! Do you use them? Is it a knob directly on the driver? Will need 8 of them though unless I find a suitable voltage and amp to connect them in parallel or serie.. Will look closer at them. There seem to be a lot if different models!
Came across this
Might be of value
I emailed regarding prices
MOQ 30 pieces
http://www.sunshineopto.com/china-1...t_kits_for_street_light_fixtures-1969836.html
Might be of value
I emailed regarding prices
MOQ 30 pieces
http://www.sunshineopto.com/china-1...t_kits_for_street_light_fixtures-1969836.html
cocogrower
Member
That would have been just about perfect... if I had 30 street lights I wanted to retrofit..
cocogrower
Member
Very good suggestion! unfortunately has minimum amp 1,3, and to low voltage to be connected in parallel..
cocogrower
Member
Finaly went with the HLG-120H-C700A. It has an internal dimmer, and an efficiency of up to 94% when driven at 700mA from 220v. I will have to deal with the high voltage though. I don't recommend anyone to do it, but wanna share some advice i got from SupraSPL at another forum, if anyone choose to follow this route:
"There are steps you can take to protect yourself around the high voltage. Double layers of heatshrink tubing. You can cover all exposed copper and solder points with dabs of silicon and put kapton over that so the silicon cant get knocked off. Also you can ground your heatsinks so if voltage ever finds its way to the sinks the driver will shut the circuit down. You can also use a GFCI on that AC circuit."
"There are steps you can take to protect yourself around the high voltage. Double layers of heatshrink tubing. You can cover all exposed copper and solder points with dabs of silicon and put kapton over that so the silicon cant get knocked off. Also you can ground your heatsinks so if voltage ever finds its way to the sinks the driver will shut the circuit down. You can also use a GFCI on that AC circuit."
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Following your idea for the most effective cob light, I spent some time searching for different led driver types and vendors and I found this document that can be interesting for some of us : http://www.ti.com/lit/sl/snvy001/snvy001.pdf
cocogrower
Member
There seem to be some good info in that paper hempfield, will read it more thoroughly when i'm less tired.
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cocogrower
Member
This led light is efficient! Don't think you can buy it yet, but still..
http://www.osram.com/osram_com/pres...-the-worlds-most-efficient-led-lamp/index.jsp
http://www.osram.com/osram_com/pres...-the-worlds-most-efficient-led-lamp/index.jsp
WOW ! I want 10 pcs ! NOW !
The article is from March and now is July - did anybody seen this prototype ? It sounds very promising !
cocogrower
Member
Me to! maybe wont have The best penetration, unless it comes with lenses, but would be perfect for a compact sog!
Dr.Nonagon
Member
WOW ! I want 10 pcs ! NOW !
The article is from March and now is July - did anybody seen this prototype ? It sounds very promising !
"The new forms of technology used will be integrated step-by-step into OSRAM product development, and the company is expecting series products with these forms of technology from 2015."
-28.03.2014 | Trade Press-
I don't know much about osram's products but the color tool looks cool. I haven't tried it yet.
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cocogrower
Member
I'm usually late, but seems like I started this project one year to early! Lol
cocogrower
Member
I have ordered everything i need, might start a new DIY thread later or just show the finished product here.
Wanna say thank's to the ones helped me out! Thank you!
Also wanna share this link to Cree. It calculates the efficiency and output of different leds and bins, and also let you compare up to three different leds at the time. It would have saved me hours of time, if i had it when shopping for my COBS.
http://pct.cree.com/dt/index.html
I am happy to see though, that the estimation of LER (Luminous Efficacy of Radiation) i made for the cobs i chose, was about right: 166 l/w at 350mA (cxa2530 U2)
This is more efficient than 3070 Z4 and also gives me more lumens per $ than the 3070 Z4 would have done. Mind the 2530 is a weaker cob, so you need more of them.. with the advantage of a more even footprint and being able to have the light closer to the canopy.
My bottom line is: Use the tool i posted to find good l/w values, and try to find a solution that makes sense to your grow situation. Higher binned older models might be a better choice, than less high binned, newer models.
This might be obvious for some people but i hope that it might be useful info for someone!
Wanna say thank's to the ones helped me out! Thank you!
Also wanna share this link to Cree. It calculates the efficiency and output of different leds and bins, and also let you compare up to three different leds at the time. It would have saved me hours of time, if i had it when shopping for my COBS.
http://pct.cree.com/dt/index.html
I am happy to see though, that the estimation of LER (Luminous Efficacy of Radiation) i made for the cobs i chose, was about right: 166 l/w at 350mA (cxa2530 U2)
This is more efficient than 3070 Z4 and also gives me more lumens per $ than the 3070 Z4 would have done. Mind the 2530 is a weaker cob, so you need more of them.. with the advantage of a more even footprint and being able to have the light closer to the canopy.
My bottom line is: Use the tool i posted to find good l/w values, and try to find a solution that makes sense to your grow situation. Higher binned older models might be a better choice, than less high binned, newer models.
This might be obvious for some people but i hope that it might be useful info for someone!
cocogrower
Member
After a long summer filled with vacations and obligations i've finally found time to continue with this project.
I'm now almost finished with the four more flower oriented units of my 8 cob setup. I was a bit nervous when lighting up the lights, since it's my first homebuilt led and its a long serie of lights and also high voltage, 176 volts according to the multimeter i invested...
CXA 2530's 4000K binning U2 (4150l @ 800 mA /25C. = 27,2 w. Additional leds: 2x630 nm XP-E p3 and 2x660nm luxeon ES deep red EX6
Four of the panels, built on chinese ebay heat sinks (found by sammy). The driver is HLG-185H-C700, 94-96% efficient and dimmable from 350-700 mA. (300-750 mA with the voltage used..)
≈4200 lumen on each cob.. umol?
Everything worked fine! on 350 mA passive cooling keeps temps under 50 degrees C. And 700 mA gives me temps of 80 degrees, which i consider far to high...
I'm now almost finished with the four more flower oriented units of my 8 cob setup. I was a bit nervous when lighting up the lights, since it's my first homebuilt led and its a long serie of lights and also high voltage, 176 volts according to the multimeter i invested...
CXA 2530's 4000K binning U2 (4150l @ 800 mA /25C. = 27,2 w. Additional leds: 2x630 nm XP-E p3 and 2x660nm luxeon ES deep red EX6
Four of the panels, built on chinese ebay heat sinks (found by sammy). The driver is HLG-185H-C700, 94-96% efficient and dimmable from 350-700 mA. (300-750 mA with the voltage used..)
≈4200 lumen on each cob.. umol?
Everything worked fine! on 350 mA passive cooling keeps temps under 50 degrees C. And 700 mA gives me temps of 80 degrees, which i consider far to high...
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cocogrower
Member
But with lights put in spiro-tubes, hooked up to my exhaust and carbonfilter, temps should get pretty low - even on 700 mA... If my pore S&P td silent-100 don't start to cough on the extra load, I'm hoping for temps to stay below 45 C. But that remains to be seen... 
Cred to Sammy2646 for giving me the inspiration!
Cred to Sammy2646 for giving me the inspiration!
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Not bad, those heatsinks should stay a lot cooler with all the air flowing through the exhaust.
What is your dissipation wattage per heatsink module?
What is your dissipation wattage per heatsink module?
