LED FAQ) Building and DIY

[Safe Gardener]

best way to use tht driver?

id run llike 4(or5) strings of 800mA and use cheaper smaller cobs like 2540 or vero 13/18 in a colder temp liike 4000-5000k ect and fill in the voltage with monos like 620nm and a splash of 660nm os some surexi F3 modules

the driver is 36-48v so youo can just run 5 strings with 1 cob+1 mono each possibly look at fast techs 4000k cxa2530 and thier 620 cree monos

Hi Dion,

Thank you for the quick reply. I got it this morning and have been looking it over all day trying to figure out exactly what you recommended for how to use my driver.

I'm not sure how to wire it? I assume you mean 5 strings in parallel because of the voltage limitation. But I'm not sure how to wire/solder in the smaller LEDs "fill in the voltage".

Thank you again for the reply, I was starting to think there was no way I could utilize this driver.

-Brian

 

[Mental K-OSS]

Dion, I joined the site mainly to say thank you for making a FAQ thread AND being active in it. Big ups. Secondly, I have a question for you. I have a 4x4 tent. I'm only using 3x3 /trayfootprint of my tent. I have an advanced xml350 over it. That's all the unit will effectively cover with desired results. What I want to do is add two 3590x4 light bars on the sides,nix the tray and maximize the whole 16sq ft of footprint. I settled on 56.3%
(8) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.4A (49W ea)
(2) HLG-185H-C1400
196 dissipation W -> 85.7W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 10284cm² -> 2 5.88" X 38" heatsinks (could split in 4 to improve uniformity/spread)
110.3 PAR W covering 6ft² = 824 PPFD... I got this from supras thread.

My question to you is, What design would you go with, active cooled modular attached to a frame similar to jikko's or the big heatsink passive bar design?

I will eventually be hacking my xml. Just want to get my diy led feet wet. As I type this, I thinking to myself "do both" 1 each. I've ordered the components from PCL. Just haven't pulled the trigger on the heatsinks or drivers yet.
Thank You
MK

 

[Mental K-OSS]

Also, I could post a pic if need be.haven't uploaded any yet.

MK

 

[Dion]

Hi Dion,

Thank you for the quick reply. I got it this morning and have been looking it over all day trying to figure out exactly what you recommended for how to use my driver.

I'm not sure how to wire it? I assume you mean 5 strings in parallel because of the voltage limitation. But I'm not sure how to wire/solder in the smaller LEDs "fill in the voltage".

Thank you again for the reply, I was starting to think there was no way I could utilize this driver.

-Brian

yes strings in paralel each string with a cob and 1/2 mono on it

Dion, I joined the site mainly to say thank you for making a FAQ thread AND being active in it. Big ups. Secondly, I have a question for you. I have a 4x4 tent. I'm only using 3x3 /trayfootprint of my tent. I have an advanced xml350 over it. That's all the unit will effectively cover with desired results. What I want to do is add two 3590x4 light bars on the sides,nix the tray and maximize the whole 16sq ft of footprint. I settled on 56.3%
(8) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.4A (49W ea)
(2) HLG-185H-C1400
196 dissipation W -> 85.7W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 10284cm² -> 2 5.88" X 38" heatsinks (could split in 4 to improve uniformity/spread)
110.3 PAR W covering 6ft² = 824 PPFD... I got this from supras thread.

My question to you is, What design would you go with, active cooled modular attached to a frame similar to jikko's or the big heatsink passive bar design?

I will eventually be hacking my xml. Just want to get my diy led feet wet. As I type this, I thinking to myself "do both" 1 each. I've ordered the components from PCL. Just haven't pulled the trigger on the heatsinks or drivers yet.
Thank You
MK

hey im not puting in the work anymorw due to this forums fascist admins deleting my posts but i will try and help

i woudl go modular active

price drops for all cree cobs in april fyi(all suplliers prices will/shoudl drop)

 

[Mental K-OSS]

Thanks Dion. Understood.

 

[Roasty McToasty]

price drops for all cree cobs in april fyi(all suplliers prices will/shoudl drop)

That's badass!!
Fascists suck.

Peace, Roast.

 

[Safe Gardener]

yes strings in paralel each string with a cob and 1/2 mono on it

price drops for all cree cobs in april fyi(all suplliers prices will/shoudl drop)

Thanks again for the tips Dion. I think I'm going to go with:

5x Cree CXA2530 60W 4000K 6000LM COB LED Array Emitter
CREE-CXA2530, 60W, 4000K, 5500-6000LM

and

10x Cree XP-E 1W 620-630nm Red Light LED Emitter on 16mm Aluminum Base
1W, Red Light, 16mm

1x Mean Well CLG-150-48A

I am still up in the air on what to use for the best (both cost effective and efficiency wise) heat sink. Do you think the 5.88" x ???" from heatsinkusa would be a decent option?

Again, thank you for your suggestions.

 

[jikko77]

imho arctic is still the cheaper way.

 

[Dion]

Thanks again for the tips Dion. I think I'm going to go with:

5x Cree CXA2530 60W 4000K 6000LM COB LED Array Emitter
CREE-CXA2530, 60W, 4000K, 5500-6000LM

and

10x Cree XP-E 1W 620-630nm Red Light LED Emitter on 16mm Aluminum Base
1W, Red Light, 16mm

1x Mean Well CLG-150-48A

I am still up in the air on what to use for the best (both cost effective and efficiency wise) heat sink. Do you think the 5.88" x ???" from heatsinkusa would be a decent option?

Again, thank you for your suggestions.

no need for the arctic alpines with the 2530 and 2 xp-e per string better to use the profile like you suggest from heatsink usa

do you want passive cooling or gonna add a fan?

id go passive and use about 2ft of the 4.85 inch per string but it is pricey so possibly just go with active cooling like put it all on the widest profile that would fit and add a 140mm fan

how big is your space agian?

 

[HellRazor]

hello guys whats the main difference about using 2530? they better then said 3070? more efficient or produce the same yeld? i used to see a lot of 3590 builds but not do nothing about those 2530. Thank you all

 

[jikko77]

hey all.
a little setup update.
the driver has been put outside the g.b.
a self made "case", some plainwood and a couple of metal frame.

some picture, the drive, now, is cold even at 1400mA and 18hrs on.

there is space for another drive, in case i want to add more cobs.
when i get my hands on a new fan driver i'll fix it somewhere inside as well.

the idea is, at some point, is to get the meanwell "b" version and fix the pot ontise on the wood.



cya

 

[jesbuds]

Dion, believe you had asked if the switch for my power outlet was necessary. At the time I didn't really care about it either way but a month into use, the switch died on me. Started to fail and fixture would just turn off, took things apart and one of the terminals for the switch came off. Nuked the outlet for now and just ran 120v cord from drivers to the wall.

 

[Safe Gardener]

do you want passive cooling or gonna add a fan?

id go passive and use about 2ft of the 4.85 inch per string but it is pricey so possibly just go with active cooling like put it all on the widest profile that would fit and add a 140mm fan

how big is your space agian?

The space is 22.5" x 18"

I had planned on using a fan so I'm good there, but I'm still not sure which profile will work best in that small an area.

 

[Safe Gardener]

The space is 22.5" x 18"

I had planned on using a fan so I'm good there, but I'm still not sure which profile will work best in that small an area.

Dion, I hate to be a pain but could you lend another suggestion here for me? I'm pretty sure my limited space makes active cooling impossible. Can I fit all 5 2530's and the 10 XP-E's on on one actively cooled heat sink? Thanks againg.

 

[Dion]

Dion, I hate to be a pain but could you lend another suggestion here for me? I'm pretty sure my limited space makes active cooling impossible. Can I fit all 5 2530's and the 10 XP-E's on on one actively cooled heat sink? Thanks againg.

i think active is the best way to go for you(active is with a fan=alot less heatsink needed passive is without fan)

use 110 cm2 per heat watt for active cooling

so u will run each cob at 640mA so they will be roughly 40% efficient(for easy maths)

@23 watts each= 14 watts of heat per cob+ the 2 reds(guestimate) 3 more watts of heat

so just aim to cool 16 watts of her per string aka 1760cm2 per string

for safty lets call it 1800 per string or 9000 total, k?

so now look at heatsink usa its all in inches so we need 17 sq inches per watt ok? so 1395 sq inches total

take the perimeter of the heatsink(easy way: (widthx2)+(fin hight x 2 x number of fins )

now multiply that by lenth and u get total surface area

with me?

id just grab the widest single profile they have and mount everthing to it and a fan, you can check its cooling with the forula above


how about http://www.heatsinkusa.com/12-000/

its 12 inches wide and about 94 iches surface per inch so u need 15 inches of it

or you could try the same calculations on the other thinner ones if you prefer longer bar or 2 bars or whatever

always happy to help my fellow gardeners

EDIT: m maths was all fucked up and jesus its expensive lol

how about
http://www.heatsinkusa.com/4-900-wide-extruded-aluminum-heatsink/ 32 icnhes of it

or

http://www.heatsinkusa.com/4-850-wide-extruded-aluminum-heatsink/ 4o inches of it


i guess running 2 bars would be ok like those cut in halfs but because its a small cab id say save on a fan and run it all on 1 bar

do the maths on the other profiles and consider u could run those all cpu coolers its just a waste of watts really

check ebay for second hand heatsinks too

 

[Safe Gardener]

Wow man, you really went above and beyond there for me! Thanks a lot!!

Looks like the heatsink is going to be the most expensive part of this build, but I'm pretty confident it's going to be well worth it in the end.

 

[Dion]

Wow man, you really went above and beyond there for me! Thanks a lot!!

Looks like the heatsink is going to be the most expensive part of this build, but I'm pretty confident it's going to be well worth it in the end.

the cooling(heatsinsk fan drivers and fans) are usually about half the cost of the project

what you want to do is get the calculator out and find the profile with the best value that will work as per ur desighn

the best value is the 2.08" profile but you would need multiple lenths and fans to cool that 130w of led power

perhaps conect all the bars together with one fan like i did on these two sinks

 

[Safe Gardener]

I just went to look over your suggestions again and saw the edit. Thanks again for taking the time to run those numbers through. I'm liking the 4.9" option at 32" that will fit centered in my cab perfectly.

When I have some progress to report I'll be sure to put up a couple pics.

 

[jikko77]

heya
i wanna know what would be your solution for this "question":

how would you make a pannel capable of: ~1500 μmol m-2s-1 PPFD for a surface of 1*1m?

 

[Dion]

heya
i wanna know what would be your solution for this "question":

how would you make a pannel capable of: ~1500 μmol m-2s-1 PPFD for a surface of 1*1m?

i think that is way too high fyi but:

lots of ways

what are you chasing? efficiency? budget? etc

if we like around 54% efficient than take 4 cxb3500K CD bin on a hlg240 1750( x 2) and you get 1000ppfd thats great or take 10 and run at 1400

but for 1500 u can run 11 at 1750mA(ofcourse this set up you should use 12 cobs and dim down a bit) 12 will give you almost 1700ppfd

basically you need 323 par watts so yeah lots of ways to get there

https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=65280


why?