LED FAQ) Building and DIY

[REALSTYLES]

And the obvious disadvantage is that it will cost a shit ton of cash

With smaller chips u can expand by adding more modules

Even the guy real styles copies his designs off (supraspl) measured and the 3590 have been shown to output the same amount of PAR at 50w as the 3070


So as I've always said more smaller chips run softer is better

No I don't but nice try Dion why can't you just face it that panel is my concept. Show me which light I copied lol just ask him and he will tell you I didn't. Keep thinking what you think and I wish you the best of luck with your choices. Even Supra is converting from 3070 to 3590 just ask him. I speak with him all the time and we talk about efficiency and the cost of PAR watt and running smaller cobs bring up the cost on PAR watts.

 

[Dion]

Oh forgot the budget, I'd like to keep it under $200, but don't wanna cheap out on something and have to replace components. Would like it to last a good while with no worries maybe upgrade later on but not fix broken parts lol.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GlacialTech...468435?hash=item1c4ded1953:g:vLwAAOxy4dNS2X98


http://www.newark.com/cree/cxa2530-0000-000n00t20e8/led-hb-white-3609lm-screw/dp/44W6082

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2189273_-1


prob 6/8/ whatever the budget allows run softer woudl be best

dunno how cost effetive that woudl be id have to do some maths but no time now

i was looking on digikey and mouser yesterday for some one


check out https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=315849


especially https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7221783&postcount=16
and i found the cxb3070 from digikey is prob best value right now

 

[Dion]

No I don't but nice try Dion why can't you just face it that panel is my concept. Show me which light I copied lol just ask him and he will tell you I didn't. Keep thinking what you think and I wish you the best of luck with your choices. Even Supra is converting from 3070 to 3590 just ask him. I speak with him all the time and we talk about efficiency and the cost of PAR watt and running smaller cobs bring up the cost on PAR watts.

u either havnt seen the thread or cant read a graph

 

[Buddah Watcha]

Not trying to hijack the thread, but if people are having a hard time understanding how led and drivers work, consider getting a bunch of 10w LED bulbs, those seem very efficient and cost effective, plus you can get them pretty much anywhere nowadays!

I found a 12w bulb on the hardware store that puts out 1055 lumens and its rated at 95% efficiency for around $8. Hard to beat that...

Blynx have them documented over the micro section, it seems to work great! They seem like solid option IMO!

Hope you dont mind me posting this here Dion... I'm just saying because I'm a lazy newb and I'm having a hard time putting my cob LEDs together

Just my 2 cents

Peace BW!

 

[Dion]

Not trying to hijack the thread, but if people are having a hard time understanding how led and drivers work, consider getting a bunch of 10w LED bulbs, those seem very efficient and cost effective, plus you can get them pretty much anywhere nowadays!

I found a 12w bulb on the hardware store that puts out 1055 lumens and its rated at 95% efficiency for around $8. Hard to beat that...

Blynx have them documented over the micro section, it seems to work great! They seem like solid option IMO!

Hope you dont mind me posting this here Dion... I'm just saying because I'm a lazy newb and I'm having a hard time putting my cob LEDs together

Just my 2 cents

Peace BW!

Lol

I see a lot of this thinking lately

They r not even close to being 95% effocient

At just under 90L per watt they r less efficient than standard household T8 fixtures

At least use cfl bulbs which are more efficient
And cheaper

And still that doesn't take spectrum into account which is where we derive par and ppf


I don't mean to be a dick but that is the most uninformed post I've read in a while and I don't want to spread misinformation

 

[Dion]

Yeah I will probably pick up another meanwell so i have room to expand later...
So it's confirmed, 4 cxb 3070s on the hlg 185 c1400 is not compatible? Too high voltage for the driver right?
Or am I misreading the driver specs?

 

[welder22]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GlacialTech...468435?hash=item1c4ded1953:g:vLwAAOxy4dNS2X98


http://www.newark.com/cree/cxa2530-0000-000n00t20e8/led-hb-white-3609lm-screw/dp/44W6082

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2189273_-1


prob 6/8/ whatever the budget allows run softer woudl be best

dunno how cost effetive that woudl be id have to do some maths but no time now

i was looking on digikey and mouser yesterday for some one


check out https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=315849


especially https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7221783&postcount=16
and i found the cxb3070 from digikey is prob best value right now

Wow that's way less than I thought it would be for the cobs but i was looking at the 2540 I and one driver per cob with 4 "fixtures". I'm open to suggestions, do you think it's worth running the smaller lights on 1 driver? My fear is 1 thing malfunctions and the whole room goes dark. That's why I liked your suggestion about 1 driver 1 light in the earlier posts. I appreciate the thoughts and the help finding well priced supply's.

 

[luvdemshrooms]

And the obvious disadvantage is that it will cost a shit ton of cash

Right. Because buying lower power now, and then buying higher power later, saves so much money.

 

[Dion]

Wow that's way less than I thought it would be for the cobs but i was looking at the 2540 I and one driver per cob with 4 "fixtures". I'm open to suggestions, do you think it's worth running the smaller lights on 1 driver? My fear is 1 thing malfunctions and the whole room goes dark. That's why I liked your suggestion about 1 driver 1 light in the earlier posts. I appreciate the thoughts and the help finding well priced supply's.

its a 2x2 right?

the absolute best you can do at in the current market is to get 4 of the cxa3070s from jerry at kingbrite for $22.5 each ( he has the 3000k AB bins or u can get the cxb3070s for an extra 10 each[better efficency higher ppfd]) and 1 HLG-185H-C1050A ($52.5) as well as 4 cob holders (Ideal holder 50-2234C $2.5 each)

so thats $152 he will suggest you use express post for like $50 bucks but you can ask him to send it china post for like 10(will wait 2-4 weeks)

then get 4 of the heatsinks i linked

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GlacialTech...468435?hash=item1c4ded1953:g:vLwAAOxy4dNS2X98

so thats around $170 bucks once u get some self tapping screws wire and thermal grease locally

in a 2x2 it will get you 50.3-46.6% efficiency(as its dimmable) 824.8ppfd for 153ish watts


ofcourse is you actually only have 2ft hight then they will prob be too powerful

so the newark chips would be better

is it 2x2 4 ft high or a 2x4 2 ft high?

 

[welder22]

its a 2x2 right?

the absolute best you can do at in the current market is to get 4 of the cxa3070s from jerry at kingbrite for $22.5 each ( he has the 3000k AB bins or u can get the cxb3070s for an extra 10 each[better efficency higher ppfd]) and 1 HLG-185H-C1050A ($52.5) as well as 4 cob holders (Ideal holder 50-2234C $2.5 each)

so thats $152 he will suggest you use express post for like $50 bucks but you can ask him to send it china post for like 10(will wait 2-4 weeks)

then get 4 of the heatsinks i linked

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GlacialTech...468435?hash=item1c4ded1953:g:vLwAAOxy4dNS2X98

so thats around $170 bucks once u get some self tapping screws wire and thermal grease locally

in a 2x2 it will get you 50.3-46.6% efficiency(as its dimmable) 824.8ppfd for 153ish watts


ofcourse is you actually only have 2ft hight then they will prob be too powerful

so the newark chips would be better

is it 2x2 4 ft high or a 2x4 2 ft high?

It's 2'x2'x3'4" LxWxH. And why run just 1 driver? Would think more than 1 would be ideal but may be wrong idk guess I'm just looking for an explanation. Like I said I'm open to suggestions just barely getting a grasp on the led methods but am liking what I've seen and read so far can't wait to try my own

 

[Dion]

It's 2'x2'x3'4" LxWxH. And why run just 1 driver? Would think more than 1 would be ideal but may be wrong idk guess I'm just looking for an explanation. Like I said I'm open to suggestions just barely getting a grasp on the led methods but am liking what I've seen and read so far can't wait to try my own

the reason I use 1 driver per cob is because im in europe and here the meanwell drivers are very expensive to get

using 1 driver per cob is actually cheaper,safer(because it's lower voltage),and easier to swap out BUT usually less efficient(89-92% vs meanwells 91-94%)

and you dont have the dimming option-which honestly for flower i feel is way over rated-we want all the light we can get lol


so you are actually right using a seperate driver per cob is gonna be good here

i truely apreciate this convo with you sir

most ppl blow in here without reading what ive already posted ask a few questions cant understand then go buy smth they see someone else using and often get the wrong driver match, and we never hear from them again

honestly its a pleasure to chat with you as i can see you are using the info ive provided in the intro to really find the ideal solution for your space,which is the biggest advantage of diy led

ok seen as you are obviously as fussy as i am it is a consideration to use a blue-er spectrum to promote shorter bushier plants(somme say frostier)

so i think i should retract the last suggestion of using the 3000k cobs


will u have a seperate veg space or is this it?

becuase then we should consider running about 2000L per sq ft of 5000-6500k for veg+ an extra 3000-5000L per sq ft of 2700-3500K

back to the small chips idea-its a good one

 

[Buddah Watcha]

Lol

I see a lot of this thinking lately

They r not even close to being 95% effocient

At just under 90L per watt they r less efficient than standard household T8 fixtures

At least use cfl bulbs which are more efficient
And cheaper

And still that doesn't take spectrum into account which is where we derive par and ppf


I don't mean to be a dick but that is the most uninformed post I've read in a while and I don't want to spread misinformation

Hey dion, its all good man, no offense taken Thanks for clarifying things up! I'm a newb and dont mind all the info i can get! I wans't aware of how inneficient they were, I just posted what the box of the bulb said!
However they are a lot easier than cob and stuff like that

I also found a 13.5w that puts out 1521 lumens. Thats 112lm/w thats a lot better than the previous one!

Anyways, ill stop hijacking your thread, which is awesome!

Peace!

 

[welder22]

the reason I use 1 driver per cob is because im in europe and here the meanwell drivers are very expensive to get

using 1 driver per cob is actually cheaper,safer(because it's lower voltage),and easier to swap out BUT usually less efficient(89-92% vs meanwells 91-94%)

and you dont have the dimming option-which honestly for flower i feel is way over rated-we want all the light we can get lol


so you are actually right using a seperate driver per cob is gonna be good here

i truely apreciate this convo with you sir

most ppl blow in here without reading what ive already posted ask a few questions cant understand then go buy smth they see someone else using and often get the wrong driver match, and we never hear from them again

honestly its a pleasure to chat with you as i can see you are using the info ive provided in the intro to really find the ideal solution for your space,which is the biggest advantage of diy led

ok seen as you are obviously as fussy as i am it is a consideration to use a blue-er spectrum to promote shorter bushier plants(somme say frostier)

so i think i should retract the last suggestion of using the 3000k cobs


will u have a seperate veg space or is this it?

becuase then we should consider running about 2000L per sq ft of 5000-6500k for veg+ an extra 3000-5000L per sq ft of 2700-3500K

back to the small chips idea-its a good one

Thanks bud it's been nice chatting with you as well, I appreciate you taking the time to help me, I see a lot of people do the same thing your talking about ask questions that have been answered 10 times or pretty much impulse buy and then find out that's nowhere near what they need. I'm a big fan of reading before making an ass of myself lol. Back on track tho I was wondering why everyone shoots for the white 3000k for led but CFL and hid users go on about mixed spectrum which I understand more like the sun with all spectrums covered. Were you thinking turn the blues off during flower or leave em on and mix them? And would it really be bad to run a mixture of both the whole grow? Also I have a small get space in mind for veg but have also been thinking of just using the 2x2x3'4" for get and flower since I'm thinking scrog it would be easier to leave them in one area start to finish, then I can really max out the area hopefully. Thanks again for the assistance it's folks like you and the other helpful people on this thread that keeps me around ic this is the best and most helpful forum around in my opinion.

 

[Dion]

Thanks bud it's been nice chatting with you as well, I appreciate you taking the time to help me, I see a lot of people do the same thing your talking about ask questions that have been answered 10 times or pretty much impulse buy and then find out that's nowhere near what they need. I'm a big fan of reading before making an ass of myself lol. Back on track tho I was wondering why everyone shoots for the white 3000k for led but CFL and hid users go on about mixed spectrum which I understand more like the sun with all spectrums covered. Were you thinking turn the blues off during flower or leave em on and mix them? And would it really be bad to run a mixture of both the whole grow? Also I have a small get space in mind for veg but have also been thinking of just using the 2x2x3'4" for get and flower since I'm thinking scrog it would be easier to leave them in one area start to finish, then I can really max out the area hopefully. Thanks again for the assistance it's folks like you and the other helpful people on this thread that keeps me around ic this is the best and most helpful forum around in my opinion.

I was thinking run them all in flower

If u have another veg space it's prob only gonna cost 20 bucks to put some XML 2s or smth for veg
That's smth u wanna think about now tjougg because that will effect the choice of chips for flower


As I always tell ppl 1st choose chips 2nd match drivers 3rd figure out heatsinks

Because vero 13s are only 7 bucks I used them in the pc/micro builds

Have u checked that thread out yet?

 

[welder22]

I was thinking run them all in flower

If u have another veg space it's prob only gonna cost 20 bucks to put some XML 2s or smth for veg
That's smth u wanna think about now tjougg because that will effect the choice of chips for flower


As I always tell ppl 1st choose chips 2nd match drivers 3rd figure out heatsinks

Because vero 13s are only 7 bucks I used them in the pc/micro builds

Have u checked that thread out yet?

I glanced thru it but haven't really studied it yet. Another reason I'm thinking of just the 1 room is if I use the veg space I'm thinking about I would have to transplant them into their final containers when I did and I'm not a big fan of that I'd like to use the final container from the get go. I do like the idea and price of the veg light you built I may just need to get the brain goin and see about a different veg space. Also I do like the idea of keeping the light intensity the same the whole grow idk how much it hurts going from say 4 veg cobs then switching to 6 flower cobs of a different spectrum. The sun stays the same intensity all the time now I understand the spectrums change from season to season correct? Just thinking about the stress due to the lights getting changed. What's your opinions about this guys and gals?

 

[who dat is]

I'm having a difficult time finding proper research that's been done for using LEDs to grow cannabis. Do an of you guys have any leads on where to find some decent scientific or university studies done for specifically growing cannabis with LEDs? Any and all info is appreciated.

 

[Dion]

I glanced thru it but haven't really studied it yet. Another reason I'm thinking of just the 1 room is if I use the veg space I'm thinking about I would have to transplant them into their final containers when I did and I'm not a big fan of that I'd like to use the final container from the get go. I do like the idea and price of the veg light you built I may just need to get the brain goin and see about a different veg space. Also I do like the idea of keeping the light intensity the same the whole grow idk how much it hurts going from say 4 veg cobs then switching to 6 flower cobs of a different spectrum. The sun stays the same intensity all the time now I understand the spectrums change from season to season correct? Just thinking about the stress due to the lights getting changed. What's your opinions about this guys and gals?

In nature light intensity and spectrum changes with the season
I was thinking more like 30% blue spectrum for veg then adding another 70% redder for flower

Like 3 6500ks down the middle and 6-8 3000ks

U can have as much light as u want in veg light drives photosynthesis which is growth

The colder spectrum should keep the node spacing tighter


In all honesty I've not liked using 3000k at all
It works great and stuff but my plants look less happy than when I give them 20-30% blue





http://www.pacificlightconcepts.com/shop/

 

[welder22]

In nature light intensity and spectrum changes with the season
I was thinking more like 30% blue spectrum for veg then adding another 70% redder for flower

Like 3 6500ks down the middle and 6-8 3000ks

U can have as much light as u want in veg light drives photosynthesis which is growth

The colder spectrum should keep the node spacing tighter


In all honesty I've not liked using 3000k at all
It works great and stuff but my plants look less happy than when I give them 20-30% blue





http://www.pacificlightconcepts.com/shop/

Cool sounds good, yeah you have to keep the ladies happy my friend lol. Man you have given me a lot of good info and help with ideas I can't tell you how much I appreciate the help bud. When I can get things goin I'll be sure to post up what you've helped me build my friend. I think you have got me covered on the help I was needing but will let you get to some of the others that need the same. Keep this thread up its a good read and very helpful I know I'm gonna still keep my eye on it. Thanks again dion for everything

 

[Dion]

Cool sounds good, yeah you have to keep the ladies happy my friend lol. Man you have given me a lot of good info and help with ideas I can't tell you how much I appreciate the help bud. When I can get things goin I'll be sure to post up what you've helped me build my friend. I think you have got me covered on the help I was needing but will let you get to some of the others that need the same. Keep this thread up its a good read and very helpful I know I'm gonna still keep my eye on it. Thanks again dion for everything

no worries i try my best despite the trolls

still interested in what you decide on and when u start matching drivers im here to help, although seen as u do your homework i doubt you will need it

btw that last link is the 3500k cxb 3070 for a very reasonable price(you americans are so lucky)

4 of those and 4 of the chip holders from him and 4 chinese drivers off ebay/ali express or 1 meanwell HGL 1400A will have you sorted

 

[Koondense]

Get the HLG185H-C1400A version, forget the cheap chinese ones