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LED and BUD QUALITY

Hiddenjems

Well-known member
I do like to see a good frosting. It might not be the ultimate guide to potency. It has certainly been wrong at times. Overall though, it's not a bad indication of how strong something is going to be. Lots of people want that bag appeal, to make more sales. It's an established idea, whether we like it or not.

If someone messes up, or chops early, the chances of having a good frost are certainly lower. So at a glance, I will have lower expectations of weed without a good covering.


I don't doubt that a well frosted weed can have little effect. Hemp flowers offer solid proof of this. I would still have to smoke a lot to really accept it though. It's just expectations though, not clear science. On average, more frost is a good thing.

A few years back, white strains were popular. It seemed to start with the widow. The rhino was popular to. They had commercial value, but whatever the white bit was, did seem rather poor imo. Lots of frost, but a weak sour milk taste, and a hit that was never making it much past 6pm.
I'm sure the states got them to, but perhaps with different names.
The white rhino cut I’ve been running the past year really surprised me. I did a pheno hunt with 50 seeds and picked a keeper. The yield and bag appeal didn’t surprise me. I was pleasantly surprised by the potency, and blown away with how much smell I can get out of her.
 

greyfader

Well-known member
I've just got a tiny tent with a tiny LED. Earlier I have been dimming for veg. This time I opted not to with heavier fertilizing in hopes of speeding things up. Maybe it did, who knows, but the plants did not look happy so I'm guessing not. Too many shades of green with slightly shaded parts looking most lush. Next time I think I will dim again. Now I'm in flowering already and for that I have always had the light on full blast.
well, i have never grown in a tent so i think you have a different set of conditions to deal with. i can see that dimming may be a useful tool when growing in confined spaces. sorry i couldn't be more helpful.
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Are you not understanding? I’m not saying visible trichomes are proof of quality. I’m saying cannabis with no resin glands won’t get you high.

Where else will the effect inducing compounds come from?
I think it's the opposite. That statement is false. Drug type cannabis is psychoactive regardless of visible resin lol. Terpenes have an impact on the type of high(see my sig quote from Sam). Visible resin doesn't mean it's gonna get you high. Drug types with no visible glands will still be psychoactive, trust me they are there. Cannabis carbon dated back a few thousand years still tested to be psychoactive. I'll add Ive never seen Cananbis with no visible resin glands. THC and other medicinal cannabinoids are only found inside the heads of three different types of trichomes. Not all will produce THC like Hemp.
 
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Hiddenjems

Well-known member
I think it's the opposite. That statement is false. Drug type cannabis is psychoactive regardless of visible resin lol. Terpenes have an impact on the type of high(see my sig quote from Sam). Visible resin doesn't mean it's gonna get you high. Drug types with no visible glands will still be psychoactive, trust me they are there. Cannabis carbon dated back a few thousand years still tested to be psychoactive. I'll add Ive never seen Cananbis with no visible resin glands. THC and other medicinal cannabinoids are only found inside the heads of three different types of trichomes. Not all will produce THC like Hemp.
So what you’re saying is if presented with brown seeded brick weed and a nice modern frosty bud, you would have no idea what to pick? Sure there was that one time out of 10,000 that the brick weed was good, and we’ve all been fooled by modern pretendica. But come on, the odd are the brick weed sucks and the frosty bud doesn’t.
 

Jellyfish

Invertebrata Inebriata
Veteran
So what you’re saying is if presented with brown seeded brick weed and a nice modern frosty bud, you would have no idea what to pick? Sure there was that one time out of 10,000 that the brick weed was good, and we’ve all been fooled by modern pretendica. But come on, the odd are the brick weed sucks and the frosty bud doesn’t.
Now you're changing the premise. The assertion was, you can't tell good weed from bad by looking, NOT what is MOST LIKELY to be good weed. That's a different conversation.
 

Hiddenjems

Well-known member
Now you're changing the premise. The assertion was, you can't tell good weed from bad by looking, NOT what is MOST LIKELY to be good weed. That's a different conversation.
I’m not the one pretending visual presentation has nothing to do with quality. Nothing is set in stone, but there are visual cues that are safe bets.
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
So what you’re saying is if presented with brown seeded brick weed and a nice modern frosty bud, you would have no idea what to pick? Sure there was that one time out of 10,000 that the brick weed was good, and we’ve all been fooled by modern pretendica. But come on, the odd are the brick weed sucks and the frosty bud doesn’t.
LMAO, Dude ive said all I can. If you don't understand it maybe some books are in order. Quality is not the same for all. One person's trash is another gold. How the flower looks in no way means quality. I can put hemp flowers in your hand and you won't be able to tell it will not get you high. You should say that 10x lol. If frosty weed is how you judge quality more power to you.
 
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Ca++

Well-known member
The white rhino cut I’ve been running the past year really surprised me. I did a pheno hunt with 50 seeds and picked a keeper. The yield and bag appeal didn’t surprise me. I was pleasantly surprised by the potency, and blown away with how much smell I can get out of her.
That's interesting. I wonder if it actually likes LED, or has drifted over the years. Or if you are just doing it in isolation. I forget which I did, but in isolation it did have a surprising bouquet about it. However, I was getting it out to show people, before getting other things out I was doing. I had to, as that way it did seem nice. Right up until I opened another bag, that just blasted past.
The main thing I look for in a smoke is the smell/taste. I would honestly grow something that barely worked, if it shouted loud enough. I don't need a one hit wonder, as I don't only have a 10 bag to last the week. So the milky tones never really appealed. You have to try though, just to see how it did in my hands. As I'm always getting very different results to the people that offer me cuttings.
 

Hiddenjems

Well-known member
That's interesting. I wonder if it actually likes LED, or has drifted over the years. Or if you are just doing it in isolation. I forget which I did, but in isolation it did have a surprising bouquet about it. However, I was getting it out to show people, before getting other things out I was doing. I had to, as that way it did seem nice. Right up until I opened another bag, that just blasted past.
The main thing I look for in a smoke is the smell/taste. I would honestly grow something that barely worked, if it shouted loud enough. I don't need a one hit wonder, as I don't only have a 10 bag to last the week. So the milky tones never really appealed. You have to try though, just to see how it did in my hands. As I'm always getting very different results to the people that offer me cuttings.
It’s just the standard heavy skunk/pine weed smell. But unlike most white rhino I’ve purchased, it has more than average smell amount.

The fact that I can even taste it at all after smoking my Death Star says a lot.

I also mono crop clones in flood trays. After 5-6 runs I usually get about all I can out of a cut, smell, potency, and yield. I do staged harvesting all throughout the window to see when it likes to be taken.

Growing the same plant for years or decades you get a real opportunity to see how all the different inputs affect the growth pattern and final product.
 

Hiddenjems

Well-known member
LMAO, Dude ive said all I can. If you don't understand it maybe some books are in order. Quality is not the same for all. One person's trash is another gold. How the flower looks in no way means quality. I can put hemp flowers in your hand and you won't be able to tell it will not get you high. You should say that 10x lol. If frosty weed is how you judge quality more power to you.
What I’m saying is this. I can’t identity what will get me high visually, but I can exclude some of what isn’t going to get me high.

If I tear open a fluffy leaf bud with zero smell and zero resin glands I won’t even smoke it. Guess it’s my loss.
 

Cerathule

Well-known member
But this could still get you high. Sometimes old outdoor weed just looks like brown whatever... but can be strong as fuck. I remember one occassion long ago where I couldn't drive my car for several hours due to underestimating such a strange looking "garbage" ditch weed. Sometimes false storage or harvest technique, it'll shatter or open the trichs but the resin, when it's still fluid, will sink into the plant tissue. Even after years most of it will still be there. Or when I put 0,3g purely grinded into thew bong, I have to smoke that in 3 parts. After the first it will ofc look like, well, you know. Like something you could have lifted out of an fireoven, or a campfire. But it will still get me high, evident by smoking it the next mourning sometimes.
 

Cerathule

Well-known member
The compensation üoint should be lower than 100, the Koray website states it at 68 ppfd in sunlight but I'm a bit sceptical on this data, as it puts the saturation point really low.
From Chandra:
PS Cannabis.png

Magnification:
Image1.png

left line would be 125 ppfd. Yeah so 50-100 depending on CO2
 

Verdant Whisperer

Well-known member
My best indoor grow was a combination of a 1000w hps with 2 True 400 W leds/ rated comapred to 900ws on both sides of hps, mxing in both spectrums and lights into one 5x5 space... electric bill was skyhigh, and overkill as far as light goes but but it was my most potent grow indoors. so yeah 1800 watts for 5x5 overkill but at same time best bud's ive grown indoors. and having the led's with hps is nice in sense you can turn off hps 15-20 minutes before lights go off and on and only use red switch of led to simulate sunrise and sunset.
 

greyfader

Well-known member
I use a mixed spectrum CMH/LED. I don't see that changing.
i'm experimenting with led+tungsten incandescents right now.

i think leds present an almost complete spectrum and that using hps, metal halide, or cmh is duplicating large portions of the spectrum to achieve the portions of the spectrum that leds are missing. at a high cost for equipment and electrical consumption.

i've put this up before, not sure if it was in this thread or not so here it is again.

this shows a typical warm white phosphor-coated led spectrum overlaid with a tungsten incandescent.

the incandescent has a greater portion of par in the dark red range than the sun.

it also has far-red and infrared presented in a smooth, continuous curve encompassing the entire range as opposed to leds.

leds graphs are always depicted as smooth curves but, in reality, are a staccato-like series of spikes and even have some omissions in the curve when looked at on a per nanometer basis.

i see incandescents as a more cost-effective way of supplementing leds.
 

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Ca++

Well-known member
morning.jpg

You probably got the 200 from here, or from someone else that did.

I explained this on the last page, if you need to recap.
 

Cerathule

Well-known member
The compensation point is higher with a densely packed crop, to a plant illuminated from all angles.
The compensation point is not given for the total plant, and it doesn't change with the plant height or structure. It is measured on a part of a single leaf, and gives us an information about how wasteful or efficient the chloroplasts of a plant can do photosynthesis. The genes of the chloroplasts and the rest of the structures which are needed for this like mesophyll, stomata etc pp are genetically identical of that particular plant so it stands to reason if you measure one leaf all other leaves, at least, of similar age and health, of said plant are going to behave similarily.

But that doesn't give any info about the DLI or how much photosynthates the plant at a specific age would need optimally to grow best.

See e.g. here
photosynthesis.png
 
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Ca++

Well-known member
The compensation point is not given for the total plant, and it doesn't change with the plant height or structure. It is measured on a part of a single leaf, and gives us an information about how wasteful or efficient the chloroplasts of a plant can do photosynthesis. The genes of the chloroplasts and the rest of the structures which are needed for this like mesophyll, stomata etc pp are genetically identical of that particular plant so it stands to reason if you measure one leaf all other leaves, at least, of similar age and health, of said plant are going to behave similarily.

But that doesn't give any info about the DLI or how much photosynthates the plant at a specific age would need optimally to grow best.

See e.g. here
photosynthesis.png
Watch his video. It's just like I said.
 
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