Just call me mr ButterfingersHoly shit rocketsoul, UHF, ah the memories. Before kramer was kramer..... MY MOP
Just call me mr ButterfingersHoly shit rocketsoul, UHF, ah the memories. Before kramer was kramer..... MY MOP
In probably all cases. The higher you go, the thinner the atmosphere, the more UV gets through. There is something like a 10% increase in UV for every 1000m of altitude, all else being equal.An in some cases we can also add altitude as a variable factor to sunlight as well
If I had to go HID I would choose 3000K CMH. If you look at the LED spectrum I created, it is close to CMH in many respects, just more efficient, more red and less green.Indeed the CMH is really looking close to the sun is it the 3000 k or the 4000 k bulb. But what would u choose besiddes aussie light LED some still use mh/cmh/hps in coolder times.
Fyi massmedical insta is goin hot , and it's not only in a positive way, People seems tired of his light "bashing talk"...
Indeed.Pssst. Light can drive transpiration, without heat gain. In fact, light can dry a surface, and the water leaving will take heat from it's surroundings. So the net effect is cooling.
Shhhh! Secret sauceI saw a couple of UV LEDs on a spectrometer recently. Both had interesting IR peaks, that were unexpected. That's not a wide study by any measure, but it did make me think about the results of using these UV LEDs, and how we might see it as a UV test, and ignore the IR addition.
really nice flower expansion! what are those lights?Did some short veg sog from seed with good results under led. Staten island chem s1s in foreground. I think even snakedope would get faded off this shit.
The manual of my fixture says to place the bars as close as 15cm from the tops but I never dared to place it this close, I have used HPS for so long I have a hard time putting the light so close to the plants. I was thinking of your other pic where the tops are almost touching the LED, it doesn't stress them this proximity ?Then what's the stats of yours to be used this close of the plants?
I have a 2,9umol light with 1400ppfd max output.
With higher amount of IR plants can touch the led board...this led "light burn" is more caused by inpropriate light spectrum than it is with powerfull lights levels.The manual of my fixture says to place the bars as close as 15cm from the tops but I never dared to place it this close, I have used HPS for so long I have a hard time putting the light so close to the plants. I was thinking of your other pic where the tops are almost touching the LED, it doesn't stress them this proximity ?
wow, that viagra meter looks promising! does it show the angle of the dangle?It's fun to actually measure the lights. These are 2 Finnchy lights. 125 watt, and 250 watt. with the UV / Red switches, ON. it was interesting to see how extra-hot the diodes were on the smaller board. I'm really close on some of those, after I accidently burnt a polyester hoodie last winter.
I would have liked for this meter to break things down a bit more. but it's basically everything outside the PAR range of 400nm-700nm. UV <400, and Reds <700.
I use UVB T5 lights near the end of flowering, and some far reds/IR's, and some UVA LED lights.
as a famous cheap bastard, i approve of using anything that will grow weed. but, do you know how to wire a 240v ballast to a 120 circuit? it looks like there is a ballast on it. does it say what voltage to use?I think at some point I brought up the hps Spectrum mogul base bulbs. Well I found some 1000w MH domes in a free pile, now I’ve gotta come up some extra pocket money for bulbs. Then wire the domes up to wall plugs. Should be interesting!!