Leaves have a weird yellow pattern

[Slipnot]

got to love this so plant has grown all summer long with no isses organically speaking then she flips to flower ???
all of a sudden ph goes out the roof
Question 1 why are you using teas ? is there or was there a problem with the plant ??
Question 2 - what caused the ph to swing so fast
Question 3 - what did you do to that caused this to happen in the first place

You need to get ph back to right parameters is adding Gypsum the right choice ?? Hell no Gypsum is a fertilizer .
TBH blindly adding Gyp can in fact create you more issues or compound more issues
The idiotic notion of blindly adding gyp or dolomite lime when 99 percent of the cases Soils have abundant amounts of Calcium being its immobile element does not run away or leach out so easy
So of course on marijuana sites everyone will say add gyp add dolomite lime etc but again its a guess unless you know what your soil really needs WTF

So reality is stay away from these products unless you have soil analysis done your only compounding the issue in reality .
like here are my keys, to my car go to store and get me smokes when your blind as a bat lol

Proper way is getting soil ph down before adding more ferts and contrary to populr belief Gypsum , dolomiite lime is Fertilizers
How can you do this organically speaking with out adding nutrients you do not know you need simple
Peat moss as a mulch even mixed into to soil will in fact lower ph being its acidic with out adding any nutes
Play it safe play it smart

 

[PoweredByLove]

Just feed them a little extra and make sure to give them a bit more water.

shoulda just listened to this guy. put that ph meter aside and all that. you just went to flower. she needs more food. and lots of magnesium .

 

[slownickel]

got to love this so plant has grown all summer long with no isses organically speaking then she flips to flower ???
all of a sudden ph goes out the roof
Question 1 why are you using teas ? is there or was there a problem with the plant ??
Question 2 - what caused the ph to swing so fast
Question 3 - what did you do to that caused this to happen in the first place

You need to get ph back to right parameters is adding Gypsum the right choice ?? Hell no Gypsum is a fertilizer .
TBH blindly adding Gyp can in fact create you more issues or compound more issues
The idiotic notion of blindly adding gyp or dolomite lime when 99 percent of the cases Soils have abundant amounts of Calcium being its immobile element does not run away or leach out so easy
So of course on marijuana sites everyone will say add gyp add dolomite lime etc but again its a guess unless you know what your soil really needs WTF

So reality is stay away from these products unless you have soil analysis done your only compounding the issue in reality .
like here are my keys, to my car go to store and get me smokes when your blind as a bat lol

Proper way is getting soil ph down before adding more ferts and contrary to populr belief Gypsum , dolomiite lime is Fertilizers
How can you do this organically speaking with out adding nutrients you do not know you need simple
Peat moss as a mulch even mixed into to soil will in fact lower ph being its acidic with out adding any nutes
Play it safe play it smart

Blind as a bat? How funny. Been fixing farms for 30 years. Guess what? Calcium is always the issue. ALWAYS. I have only seen maybe 2 soil samples in the last 30 years where I thought there was enough calcium, but when we did the trials, I was wrong. Big time response to gypsum.

I do agree with the need to do a soil analysis done correctly, however, so far, EVERYONE that has done one on their mediums/mixes, NEEDS CALCIUM.

Both dolomite and gypsum are amendments, not fertilizers. Seems to be some confusion there.

 

[Blander66]

shoulda just listened to this guy. put that ph meter aside and all that. you just went to flower. she needs more food. and lots of magnesium .

Yea I tried that a few weeks ago and it did not help, and now after seeing with a moisture meter just how wet the soil is 3-4" down I'm going to give them a few days to dry a little keeping a eye on them for sign of drying out

The soil mix I am using comes from a reputable manufacture and is supposed to hold enough nutrients for the entire life cycle. It's called smokin tomatoes by Morgan composting

 

[slownickel]

Yea I tried that a few weeks ago and it did not help, and now after seeing with a moisture meter just how wet the soil is 3-4" down I'm going to give them a few days to dry a little keeping a eye on them for sign of drying out

The soil mix I am using comes from a reputable manufacture and is supposed to hold enough nutrients for the entire life cycle. It's called smokin tomatoes by Morgan composting

How about we make a bet?

You send in the soil analysis to my account. I will pay for it.

If I am correct, all those that poopooed the idea of me wildly recommending a fertilizer like gypsum without a soil test is craziness.... they pay for it, twice each, as do you. That we can create a small fund at the lab for folks to learn.

There are several larger growers that have all had their soil analysis done at Logan and then switched to a better lab that is willing to do the procedures necessary to really understand a soil. ALL have seen like you, that their problem was an excess of elements, sometimes N deficiencies, but ALWAYS, huge calcium issues. Manganese is also consistently a very big problem as is copper.

Any takers?

I, as always, will charge nothing for the interpretation.

 

[Blander66]

How about we make a bet?

You send in the soil analysis to my account. I will pay for it.

If I am correct, all those that poopooed the idea of me wildly recommending a fertilizer like gypsum without a soil test is craziness.... they pay for it, twice each, as do you. That we can create a small fund at the lab for folks to learn.

There are several larger growers that have all had their soil analysis done at Logan and then switched to a better lab that is willing to do the procedures necessary to really understand a soil. ALL have seen like you, that their problem was an excess of elements, sometimes N deficiencies, but ALWAYS, huge calcium issues. Manganese is also consistently a very big problem as is copper.

Any takers?

I, as always, will charge nothing for the interpretation.

I am not saying I don't think there may be more going on then just over watering. I would like to get a soil test to see better what is going on. I have one of the at home ones and I am good with phosphorous, nitrogen is a little low, and so is potassium.

Can you recommend a good place to do soil testing?

My plan of attack is to let them dry out a bit as the soils moisture level is high, then the next time i water them I will run some seaweed powder and fish emulsion in with the water

 

[Slipnot]

Blind as a bat? How funny. Been fixing farms for 30 years. Guess what? Calcium is always the issue. ALWAYS. I have only seen maybe 2 soil samples in the last 30 years where I thought there was enough calcium, but when we did the trials, I was wrong. Big time response to gypsum.

I do agree with the need to do a soil analysis done correctly, however, so far, EVERYONE that has done one on their mediums/mixes, NEEDS CALCIUM.

Both dolomite and gypsum are amendments, not fertilizers. Seems to be some confusion there.

I am sorry i am a farmer and have grown for well over 45 years Nitrogen and phos are the most common def found in soils in my neck of the woods

Iron and zinc and in some cases sulfur in recent years are becoming the deficiency issues in all soils

So curious lets break it down to 10 top agricultural states in USA

Iowa clayish soils lots of calcium already in it
Texas oops did i say it again Clayish with a abundance of calcium in it
Nebraska ?? clayish soil fuck me would you look at that ??


So again these are just a few states with high Calcium sure they add organics but its to help break it down or to build soil over time
And to boot phos is tied up in clay soils because of the alkaline ph

I am not here to argue over a moot point really

Just saying that Occasionally, using dolomite lime is warranted, but the truth is, it often makes things worse, sometimes just a little, and sometimes a lot.
But they sure fooled people and people follow like puppets in swarms to get it now thinking they need it in there soils lol rather amusing really

PS Welcome to my Jungle
people make it out much harder then it is to grow any plant when its really elementary

 

[Slipnot]

Slow nickel please do not think i am pointing you out ,, I am not just stating that in most cases first thing is add calcium , and mag dolmite lime gypsum seriously its a band aid a person needs to find out why and what caused it to fluctuate so bad to begin with its Bandaid

I have NEVER used any amendments in my mj grows NEVER what am i doing right that everyone is seems to be doing wrong ???
I know i let mother nature take care of it and it last complete season from start to finish
When i make my soils i only use EWC from my 7 worm farms compost consisting of only Greens and sterlized top soil plant and walk away
no need to adjust ph as it naturally adjust by it self
How do i know when my compost is ready to use slurry test mix and enjoy life with out worry about plant issues .
I'll make sure to post pictures in months time she is just flipping no teas only rain water planted in the earth 350 gallons approx

 

[slownickel]

Blander, send a sample to Spectrumanalytic. Ask for the K3 procedures.

Slip... you have me by only a couple of years... I am used to the doubt by many many folk, right up until they see the results.

Try a bit of gypsum. You might be surprised too!

At a recent avocado conference, Dr. Lovett from the U of Ca somewhere, showed over and over, that almost all of the avocado growers in Ca are calcium deficient. The S. Africans, Chileans, Spanish, Colombians, you name it. All crying the blues.

This is not to say that there is not a lot of calcium, the issues is pretty much always an excess of K, Mg or Na. That is the reason that folks quite often see the response to the right form of calcium(s).

Read up on the SAR concept for both water and soil. It has to do with relationships of elements. Not sheer amounts.

 

[Blander66]

Blander, send a sample to Spectrumanalytic. Ask for the K3 procedures.

Slip... you have me by only a couple of years... I am used to the doubt by many many folk, right up until they see the results.

Try a bit of gypsum. You might be surprised too!

At a recent avocado conference, Dr. Lovett from the U of Ca somewhere, showed over and over, that almost all of the avocado growers in Ca are calcium deficient. The S. Africans, Chileans, Spanish, Colombians, you name it. All crying the blues.

This is not to say that there is not a lot of calcium, the issues is pretty much always an excess of K, Mg or Na. That is the reason that folks quite often see the response to the right form of calcium(s).

Read up on the SAR concept for both water and soil. It has to do with relationships of elements. Not sheer amounts.

Hey I sent in a sample and have the results

 

[slownickel]

You have a lot of sodium, most definitely making for very weak growth. Gypsum will push out the sodium and get you the calcium you need. You are quite low. Your nitrates are off the chart. Seems like things are adding up in your mix, that Mg as high as it is could be causing things to close up. That could explain that huge nitrate level.

That huge nitrate level is what is pushing up your conductivity so high. Not many crops will take that level of conductivity. Again your solution is gypsum, push it through with a lot of water. You need quite a bit of gypsum. 4 to 5 lbs per sq/meter (39 inches by 39 inches).

You also need B, Mn, Zn and Cu. 1 gram Boric acid, 5 grams of Mn sulfate, 3 grams of Zn sulfate and 1 gram of copper sulfate per plant, once or twice a week. After you get 2 grams of Boric acid and 2 grams of Cu applied, cut their dosages to 1/2 a gram each and keep adding the same Mn and Zn, til your finish up. A little bit of a good seaweed would help as would a bit of sugar, say 4 or 5 gram of a good brown sugar.

Slip, so far everyone that has needed a bandaid on this forum has needed a gypsum bandaid!

 

[Blander66]

You have a lot of sodium, most definitely making for very weak growth. Gypsum will push out the sodium and get you the calcium you need. You are quite low. Your nitrates are off the chart. Seems like things are adding up in your mix, that Mg as high as it is could be causing things to close up. That could explain that huge nitrate level.

That huge nitrate level is what is pushing up your conductivity so high. Not many crops will take that level of conductivity. Again your solution is gypsum, push it through with a lot of water. You need quite a bit of gypsum. 4 to 5 lbs per sq/meter (39 inches by 39 inches).

You also need B, Mn, Zn and Cu. 1 gram Boric acid, 5 grams of Mn sulfate, 3 grams of Zn sulfate and 1 gram of copper sulfate per plant, once or twice a week. After you get 2 grams of Boric acid and 2 grams of Cu applied, cut their dosages to 1/2 a gram each and keep adding the same Mn and Zn, til your finish up. A little bit of a good seaweed would help as would a bit of sugar, say 4 or 5 gram of a good brown sugar.

Slip, so far everyone that has needed a bandaid on this forum has needed a gypsum bandaid!

Thank you for this info. It's to late for me to correct this year as I'm already starting to harvest. But if I intend to use the same mix next year would you suggest I add some gypsum from the get go and mix it in before planting?

 

[_tessarecting]

Im doing a pound a week per plant right now and im harvesting soon

 

[plantingplants]

I would have thought with that much watering the Na and S couldn't be so high? Don't they leach out easily enough?

Is there any concern about putting 5 lbs gyp on soil with 1000ppm S?

 

[slownickel]

Planting. Look at his K, Na and Mg. Then look at his calcium, look at the difference between the 2 calciums, M3 and [email protected]. Huge amounts of carbonates.

He need more soluble Ca and he needs more S to get rid of that Mg as well. This is what happens when Mg gets to high. Everything starts accumulating. You won't get rid of Mg with more carbonates, much less nitrates. That S is high, no doubt about it.

And look at the symptoms of the plant. That EC at 2.8

Remember the SAR concept works for soils, get your Ca high enough and you can tolerate higher conductivity. Carbonate would do nothing. Maybe calcium silicate would work, but I have no experience with it...

The only tool left to push this problem out quick is gypsum. The issue is that Mg and Na. With a CEC of 27 this guy is driving the Titanic....

 

[plantingplants]

Ok so high Mg means nothing will leach out... and once you bump the mg with gypsum then the S is free to leach?

 

[slownickel]

One Meq of Ca pushes out one Meq of other stuff. When you aim at 85% you clean house if you will. You bring the Ca up to a level where Mg is forced out.

We have seen in sand, in the middle of the desert, pepper plants using the same fields and beds etc.. the first year under the drippers the water would just seep into the soil no problem. The second year, little green ponds of algae, the third year, one long river of algae and the water would wash off to the sides. They had jammed so much Mg into that sand that it would not drain. Conductivity 3.1 or so. What happened. Mg plugged up the soil, it also holds much more water than any other base chemically....

Want to guess how I fixed it?

 

[Blander66]

Circling back to this, As I am preparing for another season I had a thought. I am using straight well water for the plants and I know I have pretty hard water from all the orange stains I get to clean off my shower. Could this be a possibility for some of the issues? I will be using the same soil mix as last year ( Morgan composting smoking tomatoes)

 

[Blander66]

Circling back to this, As I am preparing for another season I had a thought. I am using straight well water for the plants and I know I have pretty hard water from all the orange stains I get to clean off my shower. Could this be a possibility for some of the issues? I will be using the same soil mix as last year ( Morgan composting smoking tomatoes)