Kali Mist, Black Domina, & Haze Skunk 1 oh my! ~ 30gal DWC, 400W HPS, 12/12 from seed

[maryjanesjungle]

added more ferts,
663ppm
5.75pH
69.1F

 

[maryjanesjungle]

672ppm
5.85pH
69F

need to feed again so im going to drop the ppm's a bit as i finally see them rise on there own, even if it is only over a 23 hours period...


update after feeding:
635ppm
5.83pH
69F

Also I've identified the remaining 2 kali mists are females, I think I might choose just one though, aaaaaaaaaaaaaand (drum roll) SO IS THE ONE BLACK DOMINA I GOT TO GROW A FEMALE ALSO!!!!
Still unsure on the 3 haze plants.

 

[maryjanesjungle]

 

[maryjanesjungle]

630ppm
5.96pH
69F

 

[maryjanesjungle]

its soon scrog time! got the fence ready today. i seen people use pvc pipe before as a frame and didnt know why. then i went to home de pot today and saw 10 foot of the stuff is only $1.74!! No wonder... So ya, pretty simple, just a few cuts and zip ties and I was done. I think ill attach it to the lid of the res so if i need to get it off and get in there i can just lift the whole thing up.

 

[maryjanesjungle]

655ppm
5.9pH
69.5F

ppm's really went up and pH down today, pH going down was a first so i know I'm over feeding. adding just water to lower now and ill readings update in a bit.

after adjustment
590ppm
5.7pH
70F

 

[Marshmello]

Sweet set-up ya got runnin' mjj.

Good Luck finishing her out.

 

[tree top flyer]

The setup looks good, but those plants... Damn they're beautiful! How easy is it to control the temp in that room, considering it's a lot larger than the grow area itself.

 

[maryjanesjungle]

The setup looks good, but those plants... Damn they're beautiful! How easy is it to control the temp in that room, considering it's a lot larger than the grow area itself.

not hard, my house temp is like 75 and i just have a few fans blowing air into my room and then into my closet and with the cooltube its around 81 at the tops of the plants.

i just took my hepa air filter and put it in the closet too, i replaced the foam pre filter in it meant to catch dust, with a carbon filter pad, i figure the air it treats will also be odor free now.

 

[maryjanesjungle]

holt shit my pH didn't move! that's a first..

587ppm
5.7pH
69.5F

 

[maryjanesjungle]

596ppm
5.65pH
69.5

 

[maryjanesjungle]

readings after feeding, took 3 gallons
594 ppm
5.61 pH
71.8F res temp

new pics,.. I'm down to 5 plants, all but the short black domina in the center have been topped too. 2 kali's in the back, 2 haze up front, and the one black D in the middle













I'm still wondering if i'm doing all i can for them, wondering about diff or better ferts or additives,.. anyone got any advice on how to really make this crop its best?

 

[maryjanesjungle]

588ppm
5.51pH
72.0F res temp

 

[maryjanesjungle]

597ppm
5.44pH
72F

adding more water to get pH up a bit and ppm's down as the rise in ppm's and drop in pH makes me think im over feeding

 

[HeadyPete]

Best way to tweak you crop is to keep to identical strains in a single rez/system so you can fine tune your nutes to your plants. Even plants of the same strain from different seeds will have different needs, depending on the phenotype.

I would imagine that the BD would take more nutes than the sativa varieties. Right now they look pretty good.

I would up your ppms a little with Grow and see how they respond. Read the plants, not the meter. You have no tip burn and as they get bigger, and when you switch to 12/12, they will use the nitrogen. You will know if you have fed enough if your plants don't start yellowing after stretch is finished.

The upcurled edges is usually heat stress, but can be onset of magnesium deficiency. I think you'll find you need to up the calmag as they get bigger and start blooming heavy.

I wanted to add to the discussion of whether leaves absorb light from the undersides and I will agree that they in fact do. Using reflective surfaces to bounce light back to a plant is a studied and proven concept. Surround your plants with mylar and your yield will increase, your buds will be bigger, tighter and thicker as light gets down to the sides and grows more flowers there.

Another technique is to use red plastic under the plants to bounce the red spectrum back up to increase yield. It is scientifically proven for tomatoes and other crops and I see no reason why MJ would be any different.

http://www.google.ca/search?q=red+p...s=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a

 

[maryjanesjungle]

Best way to tweak you crop is to keep to identical strains in a single rez/system so you can fine tune your nutes to your plants. Even plants of the same strain from different seeds will have different needs, depending on the phenotype.

I would imagine that the BD would take more nutes than the sativa varieties. Right now they look pretty good.

I would up your ppms a little with Grow and see how they respond. Read the plants, not the meter. You have no tip burn and as they get bigger, and when you switch to 12/12, they will use the nitrogen. You will know if you have fed enough if your plants don't start yellowing after stretch is finished.

The upcurled edges is usually heat stress, but can be onset of magnesium deficiency. I think you'll find you need to up the calmag as they get bigger and start blooming heavy.

I wanted to add to the discussion of whether leaves absorb light from the undersides and I will agree that they in fact do. Using reflective surfaces to bounce light back to a plant is a studied and proven concept. Surround your plants with mylar and your yield will increase, your buds will be bigger, tighter and thicker as light gets down to the sides and grows more flowers there.

Another technique is to use red plastic under the plants to bounce the red spectrum back up to increase yield. It is scientifically proven for tomatoes and other crops and I see no reason why MJ would be any different.

http://www.google.ca/search?q=red+p...s=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a

First off thanks for taking the time to write so much. No offence intended here but let me correct a few things you obviously didn't read or know about what I'm doing. As the title of this thread implies, I'm already in 12/12, been there since seed. Keeping each plant in its own res isn't possible now obviously although I might do that next time as it makes sense. You said read the plants not the meter, well since no one speaks plant I am very much listening to my plants all be it through the meter. Thus why I'm keeping a daily detailed log on ppm, pH, and res temp movements. And as I said before nothing under the plants would reflect any light at all since no light is penetrating that deep.

As for reflecting light I'm still not sold on how much mj plants spacifically use, and no ones showed me proof to the cntrary, but none the less you can see I have a white wall to the back of the scrog, and as long as it doesnt make heat an issue i might try a white panel along the front edge as well, leaving the sides open to not block air flow.
thanks again

 

[maryjanesjungle]

also HeadyPete,.. per my last post I'm adding pH adjusted water with nothing but cal mag in it to lower not raise nutes as i think I'm over feeding at around 600ppm what with ppm's rising and pH falling. Some of the lower leaves are showing signs of not being the happiest. Not sure if its over feeding but its something. Below are some pics, maybe someone could help me diagnose this without my having to post in the infirmary section?

After reading here: http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688 I'm thinking poss low cal/mag or over feeding, what say you?

 

[bbing]

Another technique is to use red plastic under the plants to bounce the red spectrum back up to increase yield. It is scientifically proven for tomatoes and other crops and I see no reason why MJ would be any different.

http://www.google.ca/search?q=red+p...s=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a

i thought it went more along these lines:
the red spectrum stimulates fruiting hormones. In tomatoes (where the fruit is red) red can mean your neighbor is closer to fruit/seed delivery and will have a better genetic roll of the dice. This can stimulate unladen plants to "catch-up" and equal the odds. Not sure this of a max yeild value or it is more of a way to control the duration and intensity of fruiting tomatoes.

you may be better off throwing your CC mag centerfold on the walls to stimulate you girls. lol.

MJJ; whats weird is you have no tip burn. I am suspect of your metering device. This sounds and looks like a nute lock and some dehydration (vascular). Maybe you could recalibrate or run a different ph test.

 

[maryjanesjungle]

i thought it went more along these lines:
the red spectrum stimulates fruiting hormones. In tomatoes (where the fruit is red) red can mean your neighbor is closer to fruit/seed delivery and will have a better genetic roll of the dice. This can stimulate unladen plants to "catch-up" and equal the odds. Not sure this of a max yeild value or it is more of a way to control the duration and intensity of fruiting tomatoes.

you may be better off throwing your CC mag centerfold on the walls to stimulate you girls. lol.

MJJ; whats weird is you have no tip burn. I am suspect of your metering device. This sounds and looks like a nute lock and some dehydration (vascular). Maybe you could recalibrate or run a different ph test.

Nute lock on plants that have only been in the res for less then 3 weeks with a clear record of ppm and pH not going wacko?? The meter is a Hanna HI 98129, a good meter from what I've read, and recently calibrated, it cant be that.

After lowering I'm down to:
553ppm
5.5pH
...hopefully this gives me the very slow rise in pH and little if any movement in ppm's I think were all looking for.

PS: Not that I think I know better then you all and I appreciate the help but from what I've read in that sink plant thread I linked earlier, pH from 5.0 to 6.0 will not let a lock out accrue. All the stuff plants need lock out in ranges my res has never gotten to. Now that could occur if my meter was off but again I really don't see how it could be THAT off considering it was calibrated not too long ago. That being said something is still a little off. Hopefully it was lack of cal/mag again. This cal/mag defiant plant pic from the thread kind of looks like what I got going on doesn't it? Same discoloration happening on the edges of the leaf right?

NOT a pic of my plant, got this from the sick plant thread...

 

[bbing]

Ok i see your point however I didn't catch you are using Culligan water.
Thought I have come across threads before that have had problems with it being too alkaline (very low GH and Kh) The other issue with it is some of their systems use salts. Ph wont be the problem however, your water could be buffering your CalMg as soon as it hits the res. That would explain why you are having Ca/Mg def's even though you are adding adequate amounts.

DI water is no better in this regard. I can almost go out on a limb and garuntee you will have an extremely favorable result to switch to RO.

I use 100% RO w/ a couple tbs of epsom for Mg boost and add just a little CaCl cuz i am so old, but it works in a fairly broad range with lucas 2pt formula.

The leaves on your plant appear to have a loss of turgor and are dehydrated in addition. Look like heat however you temps dont look outta control.

Re: water, BigTokes Water 101 is probably the most extensive i have seen here or OG. He covers the issues with sofetned water as well (alot better than me).