Ive already spent over 1200 dollars on my first grow room. PLEASE HELP!!!

[rbt]

another thing.. when u hook up your fans.. that green one u have looks like ur turning it into a 6in from 8 . or a 4 from 6... this drastically cuts down on ur air flow.. 1.. and 2 .. when u hang ur fans.. u wana make sure u can turn them on. after hooking up ducting and they aren't making tons of noise outside ur room..

everything else looks good.. I wouldn't put my fan there but hey. u can move shit around and figure out how it works once u get going..

but u want to act like ur ducting is going to be moving WATER.. make sure ur ducting is stretched and not all bent around and shit.. just so u know.. anything that u think water wouldn't run threw nice and fast.. air isn't going to either. lol.. just an easy way to explain that..

looks good I will be watching the grow. A 6" and up fan will take a motor control for speed 4" wont. Sorry to tell you this but when ran your 120 line it would have helped if you ran a 240 line it is cheaper for fan and light and AC. You can take one leg of that for a 120 equipment

I guess one of the magic's of the plant is revealing it's self to society again. Like societies of past that have used the bounty of the plant. It has made Kings and slaves, warriors and peasant's, Like a child how can we not except it's existence no matter how it came about. A roach tossed in a flower bed to the clean rooms of the medical growers which plant has more value? The real joy is seeing watching either one with anticipation. Morale don't matter how you grow but GROW

I think one of the best found plants was when a palm tree fell over in Gardena CA. The top had a bird nest in it, the bird had picked up a roach that had a seed and with all the silt in the nest it grew it was a Mexican Sativa it crossed illegally too I bet it was good

 

[noobs1988]

My green fan is an 8in and I used a reducer to a 6 in bc my 1000w light has 6 in holes and my 400w light had 4 in holes. So I had to use a 6 to 4in reducer for my 400w light to fit the ducting. Why wouldn't you put the fan there? I would like to know if im doing anything wrong or not as good as it could be bc once I finish the room, all I want to do is change the bulb and give a good wipe down every once in awhile. but that fan was a bitch to mount. also I only have 1 stud running threw the middle of the roof witch restricted my from hanging shit right... but I bought some more shit yesterday to finish it up. been busy at work and im off the next 2 days so I WILL finish it by Tuesday!

Oh yeah, I do have a speed controller for my fan and I also have a temputer senser which will turn my fan on when it gets to hot and turn it off when it gets to cold.

 

[BredForMeds]

really depends on how u set the ducting up . I cant tell from the pics.. but it looks like its going to have to do a nice bend to get to ur hoods.. id place it on bungee cords from the ceiling.. and have it hooked up in a line with the hood.. so it can move as much or as little as u need..

 

[rbt]

My green fan is an 8in and I used a reducer to a 6 in bc my 1000w light has 6 in holes and my 400w light had 4 in holes. So I had to use a 6 to 4in reducer for my 400w light to fit the ducting. Why wouldn't you put the fan there? I would like to know if im doing anything wrong or not as good as it could be bc once I finish the room, all I want to do is change the bulb and give a good wipe down every once in awhile. but that fan was a bitch to mount. also I only have 1 stud running threw the middle of the roof witch restricted my from hanging shit right... but I bought some more shit yesterday to finish it up. been busy at work and im off the next 2 days so I WILL finish it by Tuesday!

Oh yeah, I do have a speed controller for my fan and I also have a temputer senser which will turn my fan on when it gets to hot and turn it off when it gets to cold.

It looks good the speed control for the fan was so you can control volume and the amount on a constant air flow. not an on and off for that I cycle a oscillating fan on and off for the air flow in the area I don't use the exhaust for that but that is my opinion.

I think it was another who commented on the placement of the fan. I agree I don't want anything below the lights troublesome for many reasons. I bring CO2 in from the top right under a fan that pushes it down and then bring in fresh in from the bottom this is all exhausted above & through lights. That AC unit is going to pull all the moisture out of the air (don't know your climate)

The automation for a techy like you and all that you have planned done you wont be able to leave them alone which already hinders their growth I had /have that same problem. In my view for success it is all about genetics after the base is done and you have the base get going on your grow. after 14 weeks tweak it again. all facets will be more clear

 

[noobs1988]

im not using my speed controller for on and off....

this is how its going to go..

Fan > speed controller > temperature on and off controller

Here the last piece im talking about

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/046388/046388163432.jpg

So I will set it at 80 so when it gets above 80 my fan to my light exhaust will turn on which will mean my ac unit wont have to work so hard... I will then set the thermostat on my ac to 85 so anything abouve 85 my ac turns on.... of course the exhaust fan will probably be running most of the time durning the summer.. im hoping the insulation I put on my walls will maintain temperatures at a constant pretty good. I can also tweak the fan speed for my lights and the ac temps.


As far as the ac dropping the humidity... that's good bc we have high humidity all the time here.

 

[noobs1988]

SO has no one used that temperature on and off controller before? what it will do will allow me to use my lights as a heater.

 

[noobs1988]

alright, well ive done all I can do for now. I got the pond liner in and the rest of the insulation. need a 4in duct for my carbon scrubber and a few more isolating fans and that's about it for the room instelf. Then ill need to co2 and my RDWC setup. thinking about using 9 5 gallon buckets and a control res.

pics aint to good but heres what I got.

 

[noobs1988]

Alright guys, Im back. Finally going to buy my co2 setup and a MH bulb.

I went to test out my MH bulb and it dosnt work. so I need to buy a new one. My local shop has a $25 bulb but I know and have read about all different kinds. So can anyone just point me out to a good decent Mh bulb? I saw warm delux and cool delux Mh bulbs but im not sure. anyways, the major thing, co2.

OK, my room is 4x5x9 ft. I think im going to pick up a 20lb tank at a local welding shop for about $150. Now for my controller/monitor. Ive had seen a whole bunch which makes it pretty hard to choose but I would like digital display, the ability to set the PPM to my liking, and something with a little quality. Im hoping theres something good out there for under 400. Anyone using something similar to what im asking? I saw this one. http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Control...roller/dp/B007LNT2FI/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Well thanks for reading. Im going to pop my seeds Wednesday so hopefully yall can help me make up my mind.

 

[medicalmj]

Hey your set up is looking good. For what's worth, I'd forgo the RDWC for a simpler style for your first few grows. If you really want to jump into hydro consider a simple drain to waste. If you get a nice deep tray (4x4 and 6 to 8" deep)it can be easily converted to do recirc top feed, or recirc ebb and flow or just about anything. You can do top feed dtw coco in large pots or dtw granulated rockwool in large pots if plant counts are an issue.

I repeat the dtw (drain to waste) idea because if you have an issue anywhere (roots, supply lines) it won't spread. Even commercial hydro (rockwool) tomato growers are leery of recirc because it is prone to infection and that can ruin many plants.

Also, commercial recirc systems run H202 and stick with pure mineral based nutes. For you that'd be a clear (with a tint) 1 or 2 part and nothing brown, smelly or organic.

That being said, I would love to see you rock a RDWC! Just know the risk.

 

[StoneyK]

Water temps are key in rdwc... chiller is reeeeal nice to have if not vital in some warmer areas.
Id have to second medi if your still in setup do a dtw took me forever to convert from my pricey rdwc because i had so much in it but ive never been happier than with my drip system in coco... id have to say it out performs the rdwc once dialed just because you dont have to worry about so many issues. Yields right there with hydro too if not better because its easier to get it dialed to get the big numbers.
My electric bills dropped dramatically too

If your broke check out my thread in my sig... I made my diy tables for my dtw for 50 bucks a piece. Im all about diy. My syatem was cheap its easy to maintain and most important it works like a champ!

 

[noobs1988]

Thanks for the input guys. The nutes I will be using is floranova with some additives. When using coco in a drain to waste, whats the preferred ph range? And also I need to order my light, any suggesting? need a 400w MH for my sunsystem switchable 250/400w ballast.

As for my CO2 controller or monitor, I believe I will go with the one ive been looking at. http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Control...roller/dp/B007LNT2FI/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

thanks guys

 

[theother]

Thanks for the input guys. The nutes I will be using is floranova with some additives. When using coco in a drain to waste, whats the preferred ph range? And also I need to order my light, any suggesting? need a 400w MH for my sunsystem switchable 250/400w ballast.

As for my CO2 controller or monitor, I believe I will go with the one ive been looking at. http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Control...roller/dp/B007LNT2FI/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

thanks guys

Looks good man, with coco you can go from about 5.5-6.2 A good safe number is 5.8-6.0 that way if you drift around your still in range.

I like the co2 controller, I have some titan products and have been happy with them. It looks like you can set your high and low and your dead band on that one which is awesome. You really do want to be able to drop the co2 to near atmospheric levels in a sealed room for ripening. Eventually I am going to have to have to grab another controller because of that.

I have never run 400w Mh's but i have been happy with the hortilux eye MH series http://www.ehydroponics.com/400-watt-mh-eye-hortilux-horizontal.html?&cid=13 and the digilux blues http://www.ehydroponics.com/digilux-400mh.html?&cid=13 I did have a blue quit working after a kind of short amount of time but they are so cheap it almost didn't matter. Heard C.A.P. is gone though, so not sure the digi's will continue. I should add that i did see a slight difference between the blue MH's and the standard ones. not enough to spring for the hortilux blue series, but something to consider none the less.

Something to remember about MH is they do not last that long. When you think about a HPS only lasting 2 cycles, then realize a MH is even shorter it makes you think. Also dimming a MH seems to be a problem. I did it for a long time and noticed that my bulbs seemed fucked pretty regularly. Something about incomplete combustion of the gas inside the bulb was the explanation I got.

 

[noobs1988]

im not sure if I want to do coco. I don't have any good source for that around. I know very little about it as all my reading time has been spent on hydro. I like that a RDWC setup has a main res I could put right by the door. I think that will be easy for my to change and drain and adjust my set-up. I can also attach a float valve to allow my res to stay topped off with fresh water in case I need to leave for 2 or 3 days

 

[theother]

im not sure if I want to do coco. I don't have any good source for that around. I know very little about it as all my reading time has been spent on hydro. I like that a RDWC setup has a main res I could put right by the door. I think that will be easy for my to change and drain and adjust my set-up. I can also attach a float valve to allow my res to stay topped off with fresh water in case I need to leave for 2 or 3 days

Go soil or coco the first couple runs, learn your environment, fine tune things. Maiden voyage in a new spot, new mechanical systems, changing weather, and monitoring RDWC parameters is a lot to ask.

 

[noobs1988]

I understand the concern. and appreciate the feedback. honestly do. thank you.

As this being my first grow, coco or RDWC would both be maiden voyages for me, as well as the mechanical system... But im fairly confident I can put together and operate any equipment I have or would need with my various amounts of skills and trades ive acquired through my lifetime. I don't intend on my weather changing considering the amount of insulation and weather proofing ive made my environment and not to mention time and money. so monitoring my RDWC is the part I will call "the fun of growing" along with the watching it grow.

So yeah, it will be a challenge, but a challenge I look forward to starting already dangit. so I think I will go with this light suggested above.http://www.ehydroponics.com/400-watt-mh-eye-hortilux-horizontal.html?&cid=13 I will order that today.
I will order the co2 monitor next week when I get paid.. 2 more weeks and my grow journal will start hopefully. lol. post 1 was made almost a year ago from the start of this grow room. haha. but I didn't want to start until I felt everything was going to be perfect enoughfor my first RDWC to be a success. I know I will have the very helpful people here on ICM to guide me along any troubles or problems I will more than likely run into. thanks guys.

any info still welcomed as I have about 2 more weeks left to learn as much as possible before I start this project...hobby. "the fun of growing"

 

[medicalmj]

Hey don't rule out other options that fall between RDWC and a coco dtw top feed (which I am currently doing). My first hydro system, exactly 20 years ago this spring, was a top feed recirculating rockwool cube on slab. Totally amazing results. I only used a 2 part grow and 2 part bloom, nothing more. The res you are describing can be the same with the float to top off. Mine used (3) six foot long trays that held (2) three foot long rw slabs. But any tray with good drainage will work. No need for a chiller with top feed.

One more thing, what will you do if/when the power goes out? With RDWC you need constant o2 from either airpumps or agitation. Standing water = disaster.

 

[noobs1988]

never thought about the power going out but that dosnt happen to oftern here and if it does only a couple hours.

 

[noobs1988]

I also live in a area where our local hydro shop is 3 hour drive away so finding all the supplies are hard to come by... unless I order offline.

 

[Vegan]

I understand the concern. and appreciate the feedback. honestly do. thank you.

As this being my first grow, coco or RDWC would both be maiden voyages for me, as well as the mechanical system... But im fairly confident I can put together and operate any equipment I have or would need with my various amounts of skills and trades ive acquired through my lifetime. I don't intend on my weather changing considering the amount of insulation and weather proofing ive made my environment and not to mention time and money. so monitoring my RDWC is the part I will call "the fun of growing" along with the watching it grow.

So yeah, it will be a challenge, but a challenge I look forward to starting already dangit. so I think I will go with this light suggested above.http://www.ehydroponics.com/400-watt-mh-eye-hortilux-horizontal.html?&cid=13 I will order that today.
I will order the co2 monitor next week when I get paid.. 2 more weeks and my grow journal will start hopefully. lol. post 1 was made almost a year ago from the start of this grow room. haha. but I didn't want to start until I felt everything was going to be perfect enoughfor my first RDWC to be a success. I know I will have the very helpful people here on ICM to guide me along any troubles or problems I will more than likely run into. thanks guys.

any info still welcomed as I have about 2 more weeks left to learn as much as possible before I start this project...hobby. "the fun of growing"

wow I really appreciate your tenacity,, good for you bro..

I started basically like you with a similar size room,, not for nuthin but there is some real good advice here,, your learning curve is going to be really steep,

it takes time to dial in your room, cause and effect till you have all you plants going and ac pumpin in the summer you dont know what effect it will have on your environment and no offense it doesn't look like your ready to get into the rwdc game ,, ive done it and its a lot of knowledge and experience adjusting ph and addatives while watching out for the other hundred or so pit falls , bugs , disease any thing to keep healthy plants

do yourself a favor and start with coco dtw, and buy a dehumidifier your gonna need it ,,
that co2 unit kicks ass ,, I really dig Titan controllers and equipment, I have a few of their items
if you have access to clones start with those , LVPK is always a winner and readily available

also ive seen that light cooling setup run on other guys threads and done it myself
you better be tripple sure the light seams and ducting doesnt leak in any way im not a big fan of that,, unless it quite cool outside always

 

[Vegan]

https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=34581&pictureid=811693

wont even link it its so ugly but it got the job done for a bit,, window units always leak light and or air, ive taken 3 different ones apart and light proofed em and still, blah that said I would run em if I had to..

overkill is your friend on odor control

peace