-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
Issues after switching to LED lights
- Thread starter DokMcPuffin
- Start date
Chuckeye
Well-known member
Okay, couldn't find any info on that particular brand of coco but let's assume it is washed and buffered ?
If it doesn't say it's buffered you may have to add Cal/Mag, at least at the beginning and preferably before starting a seed or transplant.
Then your nutrient brand should take over (check to see it contains Cal/Mag).
Maybe a watering issue ? Coco likes to be wetter than soilless...
Lift the pot and if it feels light you've waited too long to water.
Coco also likes a bit of run off. What I do is water to run off and pick the pot up. Do that until it feels like a little less than half, then water. Some just water coco to run off everyday ! Even multiple times
Rest assured it is not the light. That model does have a hot spot in the center But the outside edges still provide plenty of light for a successful grow !
Light is @30% but at what height ?
FYI > to fine tune the optimal amount of light for your plant you can download a free lux meter app. Then take a reading at plant top height and use the conversion factor of .015 to get a par value.
At 7 weeks I'm at 600 par @ 17".
There's lots of lists of optimal par values per stage of growth out there.....
Feed is the last thing I can think of, for now
I've tried three different nutrient brands and all of them got me into trouble at anything over 1000 ppm.
Right now at a week into 12/12 I'm feeding 640 ppm..
Hope you get it figured out, eh ?
Cheers
Hello, LEDs are a great thing and the developments are a blessing for us. As long as they aren't bad Chinese firecrackers. A lot of what you have already been told is correct.
As we progress, we tend to lose our footing.
Basis: PH value germination cloning cultivation PH 5.8 .... 5.6-5.8 Depending on the variety. 5.8 is most good depending on the protocol.
You grow on soil! Set the pH value to 6.1...5.8-7.2 depending on the sorter and protocol, but 6.1 is usually good.
A little tip on the side: many varieties have long been bred with quite high zinc levels. New pipes are made of PP pipes (polypropylene) or PVC pipes. Put a few galvanized nails or screws into the ground if that's your case.
As we progress, we tend to lose our footing.
Basis: PH value germination cloning cultivation PH 5.8 .... 5.6-5.8 Depending on the variety. 5.8 is most good depending on the protocol.
You grow on soil! Set the pH value to 6.1...5.8-7.2 depending on the sorter and protocol, but 6.1 is usually good.
A little tip on the side: many varieties have long been bred with quite high zinc levels. New pipes are made of PP pipes (polypropylene) or PVC pipes. Put a few galvanized nails or screws into the ground if that's your case.
chronosync
Well-known member
airflow :
air blowing on the leaves and all over the tent helps drive transpiration and prevents stagnation and dead air spots, micro-climates or otherwise uneven conditions in the space
air exchange:
fresh air in / old air out ensures the plants are getting enough co2 as well as also prevents stagnation
air blowing on the leaves and all over the tent helps drive transpiration and prevents stagnation and dead air spots, micro-climates or otherwise uneven conditions in the space
air exchange:
fresh air in / old air out ensures the plants are getting enough co2 as well as also prevents stagnation
You must be using tap water that has plenty already in the water.
Chuckeye
Well-known member
Rocket Soul
Well-known member
Please note how the plants look saggy, the saggier the more pale green: they are not transpiring. Achieve transpiration first; try vpdchart dot com (hope this ok with mods who dont like links, its just a vpd chart made easy and ajustable).
Once you see the plant transpiring: stiff leaf boners pointing outwards and not saggy leaves; then dial in nutes. In Coco, depending on buffer levels, you can use an extra strong feeding on transplant, and remove some of guess work of calmag.
Always water til runoff and measure ec in and out and make notes.
When adding calmag be careful to not add too much you can lockout K and get very weird looking defs. Transpiration first then dial in nutes. And then slowly up light levels, using more nutes as you go controlling and balancing runoff
