Yeah, summer would be more suitable LED because of lower heat output. Everything has two sides.
Is there a Maximum "safe" ppfd??
- Thread starter LostTribe
- Start date
Yeah, summer would be more suitable LED because of lower heat output. Everything has two sides.
why not have a look at our FCE-4800
。 It has UV and IR, The bar spacing is adjustable. https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-e4800-commercial-led-grow-light/
The 250w quantum board I was using for my veg/mom tent was not HLG but is samsung lm301h and osram 660nm with a meanwell driver. I have not had any luck with it. It looks like one of the knockoffs possibly from Meijiu off alibaba but I think it came from Amazon.
I also wonder if I should have chosen a different light spectrum, this was a 3000k spectrum model.
I definately had a wide range of light readings on it. The hot spot directly underneath was 2x the power of the edge of the tent even at 2 feet over canopy. dialed down a bit I was getting a wide range from 400 to 900 umol. That was with the ppfd app not a real sensor though. Still seemed to show that there was a huge difference depending on where I was measuring the readings.
The FCE for comparison was very uniform (4800 in a 3x3 dialed to 80%) and I had a bit higher ppfd on the edges but it was 950 to 1100 range. I am seeing uniform growth and about to harvest first mars batch in a few days just waiting on a couple to finish up.
I also wonder if I should have chosen a different light spectrum, this was a 3000k spectrum model.
I definately had a wide range of light readings on it. The hot spot directly underneath was 2x the power of the edge of the tent even at 2 feet over canopy. dialed down a bit I was getting a wide range from 400 to 900 umol. That was with the ppfd app not a real sensor though. Still seemed to show that there was a huge difference depending on where I was measuring the readings.
The FCE for comparison was very uniform (4800 in a 3x3 dialed to 80%) and I had a bit higher ppfd on the edges but it was 950 to 1100 range. I am seeing uniform growth and about to harvest first mars batch in a few days just waiting on a couple to finish up.
I am to try it sometimes but i think you get about same benefits as keeping the growroom or tent at proper temp. Only diference might be more evaporation, which I am not sure its good unless roots like the heat. But heat does make germination faster in some plants so maybe there is some boost you can get while plants are small and developing roots.
Many definitive trial results have actually been inconclusive. They tend to omit the yield data. You would hope they can grow, but when the numbers do slip out, almost without deviation, they are shit growers. Good scientists, but no green fingers. I'm yet to actually see a study I found satisfying. So please do post one if anybody has.
A full daylight spread can probably supply the highest ppfd. As way of explanation, we could find the maximum using just red and blue. Then, after we can't add any more, we can start adding green and get away with it. Each band does something a little different that might be maxed out if that band is more intense than others. Right now, we are finding that at high illumination, the blue needs keeping in check. Those high energy photons at that end of the spectrum are, I fancy, damaging. With little data available, it seems that reducing the blue has led to higher ppfd being possible. This bit of everything approach is documented by fluence (osram) in a thread I put up. Actual growing was done, by growers.
A full daylight spread can probably supply the highest ppfd. As way of explanation, we could find the maximum using just red and blue. Then, after we can't add any more, we can start adding green and get away with it. Each band does something a little different that might be maxed out if that band is more intense than others. Right now, we are finding that at high illumination, the blue needs keeping in check. Those high energy photons at that end of the spectrum are, I fancy, damaging. With little data available, it seems that reducing the blue has led to higher ppfd being possible. This bit of everything approach is documented by fluence (osram) in a thread I put up. Actual growing was done, by growers.
Three Berries
Active member
I made some bucket heaters this winter for my flower room. It gets down into the 50f lights off. Kept the heaters at 72F on/73F off. In my veg tent I use a heat mat and run that off a controller too, same temps. It's not in such a cold location though. I use a small heater that runs for about 15 minutes until the lights start heating things up. It usually gets down into the lower 60Fs in winter and up to mid 70Fs .
Sampas92
Just newbin
The thing is with leds the IR like in Hps lights is missing, wich makes them with a leaf temp lower.
When i had Root Aphids and drench the pots freezing cold water i could feel the plants freezing cold too.
Warmer roots couldnt possibly makes them have an internal temp higher, closer to what Hps do?
Three Berries are you with Leds or Hps?
Peace
When i had Root Aphids and drench the pots freezing cold water i could feel the plants freezing cold too.
Warmer roots couldnt possibly makes them have an internal temp higher, closer to what Hps do?
Three Berries are you with Leds or Hps?
Peace
Three Berries
Active member
The thing is with leds the IR like in Hps lights is missing, wich makes them with a leaf temp lower.
When i had Root Aphids and drench the pots freezing cold water i could feel the plants freezing cold too.
Warmer roots couldnt possibly makes them have an internal temp higher, closer to what Hps do?
Three Berries are you with Leds or Hps?
Peace
My LEDs have IR and UV too. In the flower room in winter it gets cold. I started with 3-100w LED, added 2-50w LED to try and get the temp up as there is constant ventilation abet low speed. Hard to get it up to 70F. Took a 100w LED out and added a 150w HPS for heat. That brought the temp up but too much light (or insufficient nutrients) so I took the 2-50w out. Ended the run on 2-100w LED and 1-150w HPS.
The bucket heaters I got were 4" for a 3.5 gal bucket, same diameter as a 5 gallon bucket. 3" would be better. The temp probe has to be near the wall of the pail and be sure to put in a high temp alarm of around 80F when using them.
Lost one plant on a smaller bucket grow from over heating. 4" heat tape on 2 gal bucket was way too much even when controlled to 1F on/off. With the smaller buckets I just use a heat pad now with a controller.
Once my growspace is above 20 C I am happy and don't worry about cold roots. Even if you heated the roots, I think maybe 23-24 deg. C is the optimum range for a mature plant, with maybe around 25-28 C for seedlings, and not more. My growtent sits just around 22C most times, so I would only want to test it once to see if it helps. Heating rootzone may not be such a noticeable help after they leave the seedling stage, anyway!
Three Berries
Active member
I figured with the plant outdoors and in the soil the roots are fairly stable in temp but the top fluctuates a lot. With no heater on the pots I bet the temp would drop into the lower 60fs. I have a old water bed heater too that's about 3 foot long and 18 inches wide. That would make a good mat but too much would be unused and exposed.
In my veg tent I have a small 200w heater on a controller. It will boost the temp up to the mid 70fs where it stays after the leds nd humidity get stabilized. It runs about the first 15 minutes but there is no constant air flow.
