george j warner
Member
i ran a 1k air cooled light 4 inches above 4 great white shark clones ..with good results.
-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
Interesting theory, use 50% less light in the last 3 weeks
- Thread starter ChaosCatalunya
- Start date
P
purpledomgoddes
many methods of manipulating light schedule(s)+colors during various stages of growth to trigger reactions in plant.
above math in reference to old thread on og/cw?... where the gardener(s) broke down a 7-day week into 168 total base hours per week. from that point one can alter the regime to suit desires.
example:
a gardener could run 16 hours of light w/ 12 hours of darkness for 6 days (6 dark reaction cycles), equaling 168 hours, or 7 calendar days.
(6x16=96)+(6x12=72)=168 hours, or 7 calendar 24 hour days.
whereas, in a standard 12 hours light w/ 12 hours dark bloom cycle, the light received during the same period is 84 hours (12x7=84). also, 84 hours of darkness, where in the 16/12, 72 hours of darkness (6x12=72), 96 hours of light, is the total for the week.
8 hours of light for 7 days gives 56 hours of light. 16 hours of light for 7 days gives 112 hours of darkness for the week. 168 total.
many ways to manipulate light cycles. higher night temps+higher rh (to manageable degree), in conjunction w/ light manip @ key life-cycle times, provides the gardener w/ tools to possibly alter growth/fruiting more acutely, if desired.
My 600 watt air cooled lights bleach and crisp plants from about 16 inches or less.
loco81
Member
george j warner
Member
lol my 600 watts normal lights bleach at that distance lol.. wack up your fan and have a reflector that doesn't have hot spots or use a shield (think its called that lol,, the thing that fits on to the E40 socket
Hi all,
we are getting sidetracked on to photoperiods & other stuff, what I was originally talking about is reducing light intensity, distance and numbers in the last 15/20 days of a crop's flowering cycle - because - I heard that you get the same yield, better flavours, taste and possibly potency and also save on electricity... I tried it and IMHO it *works* enough to do some further investigation.
I would really appreciate feedback about this, photoperiods are closely related, but we need to separate the two.
all the best
cc
we are getting sidetracked on to photoperiods & other stuff, what I was originally talking about is reducing light intensity, distance and numbers in the last 15/20 days of a crop's flowering cycle - because - I heard that you get the same yield, better flavours, taste and possibly potency and also save on electricity... I tried it and IMHO it *works* enough to do some further investigation.
I would really appreciate feedback about this, photoperiods are closely related, but we need to separate the two.
all the best
cc
george j warner
Member
yer some seed companies say to do this with white widow ... they actually say complete darkness for last 2 weeks then harvest.. brins out more crystals and more THC .
kinda makes sense when you flush ,as light destroys THC.
kinda makes sense when you flush ,as light destroys THC.
C
cork144
hmm it is interesting, but these days most strains are bred under the usual light patterns, i think this would work alot better with more outdoor strains which have been bred outdoors for outdoors, since this is what theyre used to.
to be honest i have no idea on the effect this would do to indoor plants, cant imagine it would effect it in a bad way realy.
to be honest i have no idea on the effect this would do to indoor plants, cant imagine it would effect it in a bad way realy.
The thinking is that, by then the plant has formed all the calyxes she is going to, you are just waiting for them to fatten. At this stage they are vulnerable to damage from heat as well as the usual Humidity/Mould .... I think this is an accepted fact not a theory ... so by reducing the heat you are only going to help, the reduced light intensity does not seem to affect yield... it is all already there.
I think you are spot on about the effects of indoor breeding, it may well affect this. All strains are different and will show different needs/reactions to different environmental factors, I dont think people really take this into account enough.
P
Psychosativa
I find this information quite interesting for growing hybrids outdoors near the tropics, where the sun hits hard all year round. I've found that excessive heat often cooks aromas and flavors. Hybrids near the tropics could benefit from this technique. I fortunately can move my plants to a shadowy location whenever I need it, so I'm gonna give it a try. Thanks for sharing.
Heres a thread of mine that is very similar to this subject..
http://icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=2191964#post2191964
http://icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=2191964#post2191964
Very interesting, there seems to be a lot of different angles to discuss on this subject, light intensity is one part, photoperiod another, and as with so much, I will bet what holds true for one person and their genetics/growroom, may well not always be the same for another.
igrowwitmatches
Member
intresting
M
milehighmedical
I have a 600w and a 1000w that I use in a dual-stage flowering configuration. One month under CFL 24-0, one month under the 600 hps 12-12 and then the last month under the 1000 hps. Haven't run enough through it to have any data to compare though, sorry.
I've never heard of anyone doing it like this, but these happen to be the two lamps I have and also the maximum wattage I can run on my 20amp with accessories. And due to the different foot prints I didn't want to run them next to each other and create an uneven growing area, bothers me. It's also nice to have a perpetual, monthly harvest.
Maybe I should consider doing a run backwards, 1000w first to increase calyx formation, and then finish under 600w. The whole time I've been doing this I've been worried if starting with the 600w significantly decreases the number of bud spots, even if the 1000 packs on the weight.
I've never heard of anyone doing it like this, but these happen to be the two lamps I have and also the maximum wattage I can run on my 20amp with accessories. And due to the different foot prints I didn't want to run them next to each other and create an uneven growing area, bothers me. It's also nice to have a perpetual, monthly harvest.
Maybe I should consider doing a run backwards, 1000w first to increase calyx formation, and then finish under 600w. The whole time I've been doing this I've been worried if starting with the 600w significantly decreases the number of bud spots, even if the 1000 packs on the weight.
Hi milehighmedical
Yes, it does sound like you are doing it 'the wrong way round' ... if this theory is right... it does follow Nature's cycle, where light [and temps] naturally decreases in the Autumn .... I got the idea from someone who spends a lot of time and trouble looking into what they do and why and is one of the [sadly...] very few who gets consistently high quality results .... and this is despite the scale he works on.
It was also how I finished my last Trainwreck grow and that seemed quite popular.... I am also now thinking of making 'side tables' to move plants on to, a couple of feet away from the main flowering table, so the main crop is not held up or back while the elderly ladies have a gentle finish ;-)
Yes, it does sound like you are doing it 'the wrong way round' ... if this theory is right... it does follow Nature's cycle, where light [and temps] naturally decreases in the Autumn .... I got the idea from someone who spends a lot of time and trouble looking into what they do and why and is one of the [sadly...] very few who gets consistently high quality results .... and this is despite the scale he works on.
It was also how I finished my last Trainwreck grow and that seemed quite popular.... I am also now thinking of making 'side tables' to move plants on to, a couple of feet away from the main flowering table, so the main crop is not held up or back while the elderly ladies have a gentle finish ;-)
The Southpaw
Member
I gave this a try with my last sweet tooth grow also, (last 2 weeks, 11/13 and 10/14.. It IS what happens in nature.. I was happy with the results
M
milehighmedical
If the theory is correct. It's not necessarily true that nature has the best possible cycle for what we're trying to achieve. I mean, with these highly controlled indoor gardens, aren't we trying to get ahead of nature? Aren't we trying to do something that nature can't do by itself. I have yet to see a single outdoor bud that looks as good as an indoor harvest. Just a thought.
The only way to know for sure is to try it both ways in a controlled environment.
The only way to know for sure is to try it both ways in a controlled environment.
T
the med man
i always grow tester strains on the floor or side shelves around the real canopy in the room. bud is always darker, fluffier and never ripend the way plants do under the most intense light. you will be cutting half the energy to the plants they would use to swell, mm
