Info on The Real Seed Company?

[Old Uncle Ben]

I have to agree unless it's just rocks ,you appear to do just fine with your soil and cow manure. Container nurseries growing in the soilless mix with chemical fertilizers and constant irrigation are basically growing hydroponic.They grow a beautiful product that the customer takes home and plants in the ground and ends up struggling keep watered or drown in a puddle of water, depending on the native soil and conditions they have to adapt to. I liken it to that fruit people buy a the market that looks great but tastes like shit, but it looks really good and sells. I'm not a crazy total organic person but if I'm gonna grow my own crops to consume ,why not especially when it's easier and cheaper

If I had to guess it cost me less that $1.00 USD with little back breaking lifting/hauling to grow 9 pot plants from start to finish.

NO lab can tell the difference between salts dervied from organics or manures and synthetic salts.

Penn and Teller did a taste test of fruits at a market. Some were fed conventionally with synthetic salts, some with organics. The conventionally fed fruits/tomatoes won the taste test every time. Here's an excerpt of the original flick.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

No I am not a master, this is the first year I have tried to grow SE Asian sativas. I got some confidence last year growing some auto-flowers outdoors and this year i wanted to try regular pot. I may decide next year to plant directly in the ground, I am curious to see how that turns out.

I belong to an area wide gardening group and no-till gardening is very popular. A lot of our native land is just awful - limestone rock or heavy clay. It will take a few years to build your soil up organically where you'll have really good yields but it can be done. Just start dumping plenty of organics in your future garden. An initial tilling or hand digging with a garden fork will be needed to jump start it. Where I live we can buy a HUGE amount, 3 cu. yds. of "double grind" for $10 USD. It's about 2 large pickup loads if not more. This is what you need. This cab of this loader is about 2.5 meters from the ground!

You should be able to rent a large dump trailer, electronically operated to haul this stuff. Manures too. Back up to your spot, hit the up lever on the front of the trailer - DONE.

Are about a dozen or so of these huge piles. Material is hardwood matter and leaves collected by large city vacuum trucks that vacuum piles left by citizens.

Curious, would Thai customs confiscate a small box of goodies, fertilizers?

UB

 

[Herbert Chickybaby]

I belong to an area wide gardening group and no-till gardening is very popular. A lot of our native land is just awful - limestone rock or heavy clay. It will take a few years to build your soil up organically where you'll have really good yields but it can be done. Just start dumping plenty of organics in your future garden. An initial tilling or hand digging with a garden space will be needed to jump start it. Where I live we can buy a HUGE amount, 3 cu. yds. of "double grind" for $10 USD. It's about 2 large pickup loads if not more. This is what you need. This cab of this loader is about 2.5 meters from the ground!

You should be able to rent a large dump trailer, electronically operated to haul this stuff. Manures too. Back up to your spot, hit the up lever on the front of the trailer - DONE.

View attachment 18959012

View attachment 18959013

Are about a dozen or so of these huge piles. Material is hardwood matter and leaves collected by large city vacuum trucks that vacuum piles left by citizens.

Curious, would Thai customs confiscate a small box of goodies, fertilizers?

UB

They are highly irregular and arbitrary about enforcing their laws here. You are not supposed to be able to import herbal/traditional medicines or vitamins, yet I've been doing that for several years.

That's a nice pile of soil. I like the look of that. If I could get a pile like that over here i would most certainly would be trying to do a raised bed next year. There is a new organic farm not far from here. My wife is really impressed by their yields. I have not been over there to check them out, but they sell direct to anyone who shows up and wants to buy whatever they have available. She has tried picking their brains about how to get good soil because its not good around here as I mentioned i think, hard red clay, and she says they are not generous on that account at all. No matter you can slowly work at improving the soil as we have done, but not with enough dedication so its slow. I suppose getting a good composter set up would help. I've been thinking I really need to do that. We also have load of leaves that have been composting for about three years now. That would be good to rotate into the garden area. Cow manure is everywhere around here, neighbors give us some of theirs for our supply.

 

[weedsmoker420]

Does Fertilizer Kill Soil Bacteria?

Do synthetic fertilizers kill bacteria in soil? Is the soil food web right? Find out what really happens in the soil after adding fertilizer.

www.gardenmyths.com

Here's a good one that I got into a discussion with a organic purist this morning on Fakebook regarding the popular Espoma brand.

Me:
".....like most "organic and natural" fertilizers, it is marketed, targeted if you will, towards a consumer who relies on personal feelings/philosophy over nutritional facts. Take their citrus food, it does not have the correct NPK for citrus (citrus prefers a 3-1-2 or 5-1-2 NPK ratio) and worst of all Espoma contains NO micros which citrus *requires* to perform. Am talking NO Fe, Mn, Zn, or B. When someone complains here that their citrus fave is not looking good, is losing leaves, doesn't hold or produce fruit, the first question I ask is "what food are you using?" Never fails.......



Having said that, I know and support the use of organics, just not a purist. I make my own soil mix and always add some of the meals - blood and bone. I've also planted 14 acres in green manure crops, 2 years in a row. Also innoculate perennials with mychorrizae. Did some afghanis too recently, not that it will do any good. They're annuals and that fungi does not work welll on annuals.

All of this is in my diary.

View attachment 18957553

Meyer lemon tree, loaded with about 200 in the greenhouse. Osmocote, mulched with mainly it's leaves and pine bark. Tree is dropping old leaves, pushing new ones and about to bloom.

View attachment 18957550

Not to nit-pick too much, but Espoma products do contain micronutrients, they're just not listed on the label. The 5th ingredient is greensand, which contains iron and tons of other micros.

I've used both Espoma and Osmocote products for a while and have had good results with both.

Ironically, though, it does bug me that Osmocote no longer lists the calcium % on their labels (one of the ingredients is calcium phosphate so I have to assume there is some calcium in there, but still...)

 

[Old Piney]

No I am not a master, this is the first year I have tried to grow SE Asian sativas. I got some confidence last year growing some auto-flowers outdoors and this year i wanted to try regular pot. I may decide next year to plant directly in the ground, I am curious to see how that turns out.

I should just be a lot easier and require less watering and attention. Also I believe many SE Asian sativas can grow gigantic up to 4 meters that's not gonna happen in a container unless it's ridiculously big. It's your garden and you know best in considering all the variables. You mentioned that you can get coconut husk fiber that would be a lovely amendment to lighten up and improve aeration in your soil, either way in a container or in the ground. It's so cool to see your grows , just across the river from their native home. I suspect that your plants will grow just fine in your heavy clay soil and cow manure that's probably what they are used to

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

They are highly irregular and arbitrary about enforcing their laws here. You are not supposed to be able to import herbal/traditional medicines or vitamins, yet I've been doing that for several years.

That's a nice pile of soil. I like the look of that. If I could get a pile like that over here i would most certainly would be trying to do a raised bed next year. There is a new organic farm not far from here. My wife is really impressed by their yields. I have not been over there to check them out, but they sell direct to anyone who shows up and wants to buy whatever they have available. She has tried picking their brains about how to get good soil because its not good around here as I mentioned i think, hard red clay, and she says they are not generous on that account at all. No matter you can slowly work at improving the soil as we have done, but not with enough dedication so its slow. I suppose getting a good composter set up would help. I've been thinking I really need to do that. We also have load of leaves that have been composting for about three years now. That would be good to rotate into the garden area. Cow manure is everywhere around here, neighbors give us some of theirs for our supply.

Shit happens, go for it

 

[Donald Mallard]

No I am not a master, this is the first year I have tried to grow SE Asian sativas. I got some confidence last year growing some auto-flowers outdoors and this year i wanted to try regular pot. I may decide next year to plant directly in the ground, I am curious to see how that turns out.

should do great ,,
try to collect as much rice hay as u can to mulch down at your spot before u get her going again ,
that stuff is fantastic to break up that hard red clay , it just needs organic matter , like hay ,, to become sooo much better ,
a little gypsum wouldnt hurt either ...

 

[Herbert Chickybaby]

I should just be a lot easier and require less watering and attention. Also I believe many SE Asian sativas can grow gigantic up to 4 meters that's not gonna happen in a container unless it's ridiculously big. It's your garden and you know best in considering all the variables. You mentioned that you can get coconut husk fiber that would be a lovely amendment to lighten up and improve aeration in your soil, either way in a container or in the ground. It's so cool to see your grows , just across the river from their native home. I suspect that your plants will grow just fine in your heavy clay soil and cow manure that's probably what they are used to

Yes, I'm clearly getting smaller than normal plants, thats fine, I need to keep out of view and we are already pushing it. If I lived in the United States encouraging large plants would be a no-brainer.

Thanks for the tip about coconut coir. I was probably listening to the rich kids in Bangkok too much who for their indoor grows are snobby about coconut coir. Its very cheap and easy to get. And I'm pretty sure increasing flow will be an upgrade.

We tried some direct plantings of seedlings into the clay initially when we could buy seedlings in the produce market (no longer, they told people to stop), those plants fared very poorly. The others we planted in buckets did pretty nicely with minmal care and attention. It may have been other issues. Those results may also have a lot to do with why I hesitate to plant directly. I had thought those plants would have shat all over the potted plants in terms of performance but in two very separate locations they came to almost no results. One group failed to grow beyond about 5 inches tall, another group grew fairly tall, 3 foot, but very few leaves and quite yellow. we gave them adequate water and nutirents they were both in very good areas for light. I think it was th clay is just too sticky and heavy. I grew potted autoflowers in those areas and they did very nicely.

 

[Herbert Chickybaby]

should do great ,,
try to collect as much rice hay as u can to mulch down at your spot before u get her going again ,
that stuff is fantastic to break up that hard red clay , it just needs organic matter , like hay ,, to become sooo much better ,
a little gypsum wouldnt hurt either ...

Yeah, we use a lot of hay with the vegetables also free from next door, they're drowning in it currently.

 

[Old Piney]

Yes, I'm clearly getting smaller than normal plants, thats fine, I need to keep out of view and we are already pushing it. If I lived in the United States encouraging large plants would be a no-brainer.

Thanks for the tip about coconut coir. I was probably listening to the rich kids in Bangkok too much who for their indoor grows are snobby about coconut coir. Its very cheap and easy to get. And I'm pretty sure increasing flow will be an upgrade.

We tried some direct plantings of seedlings into the clay initially when we could buy seedlings in the produce market (no longer, they told people to stop), those plants fared very poorly. The others we planted in buckets did pretty nicely with minmal care and attention. It may have been other issues. Those results may also have a lot to do with why I hesitate to plant directly. I had thought those plants would have shat all over the potted plants in terms of performance but in two very separate locations they came to almost no results. One group failed to grow beyond about 5 inches tall, another group grew fairly tall, 3 foot, but very few leaves and quite yellow. we gave them adequate water and nutirents they were both in very good areas for light. I think it was th clay is just too sticky and heavy. I grew potted autoflowers in those areas and they did very nicely.

Ideally what you really need is sand as well, but it's heavy and you could use a lot of it maybe a small dump truck full of concrete sand? For all of your gardening

 

[Herbert Chickybaby]

Ideally what you really need is sand as well, but it's heavy and you could use a lot of it maybe a small dump truck full of concrete sand? For all of your gardening

Yeah, I've understood that but I did not get what the lower limit of sand was till the last maybe not so great run with the Lao Gold giving up the ghost about 6 weeks early. My Bokeo however is in similarly high clay amount soil and not quitting as it enters week 16.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

Not to nit-pick too much, but Espoma products do contain micronutrients, they're just not listed on the label. The 5th ingredient is greensand, which contains iron and tons of other micros.

Does "GUARANTEED ANALYSIS" ring a bell?

Greensand's only "attribute" is K. Never touch the stuff.

Shit is snake oil - wrong NPK for citrus, no micros, a MUST for citrus - Fe, Zn, B, Mn. Your typical "organic and natural" rip off that targets dummies who don't understand plant nutrition but will believe anything if the label touts "organic". That industry is all about marketing to a particular mindset, cult.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

Ideally what you really need is sand as well, but it's heavy and you could use a lot of it maybe a small dump truck full of concrete sand? For all of your gardening

Adding sand to clay is like adding marbles to a canister of flour. You have done nothing to change the soil structure. Only copious amounts of organics can do that.

Did I mention I've been cursed with clay soils all my life?

@Herbert Chickybaby, do you have a limestone type soil? What's the pH? I can guess no lime and a low pH, right?

My original veggie garden was a 12" raised bed, 6' W X 100' long. I back filled with 50/50 washed builders sand (clean with no clay) and double grind organics. I soon learned that size was overkill and reduced the size to a more manageable 4.5' X 50' raised bed. Again, that's over tight red clay. Earthworms quickly moved in. After a good rain I see millions of worm castings on my native soil:

UB

 

[need4weed]

has anyone got any grow info on the Thai THCV and the Palmera THCV strains? Both strains offered over on kiwi seeds. They seem interesting as they have Thai and Congo genes, I assume they are worked hybrids as they have incredibly quick flowering times for strains from these regions. People are obviously growing out a lot of these rare strains but not seeing much info being posted

 

[Old Piney]

Adding sand to clay is like adding marbles to a canister of flour. You have done nothing to change the soil structure. Only copious amounts of organics can do that.

Did I mention I've been cursed with clay soils all my life?

@Herbert Chickybaby, do you have a limestone type soil? What's the pH? I can guess no lime and a low pH, right?

My original veggie garden was a 12" raised bed, 6' W X 100' long. I back filled with 50/50 washed builders sand (clean with no clay) and double grind organics. I soon learned that size was overkill and reduced the size to a more manageable 4.5' X 50' raised bed. Again, that's over tight red clay. Earthworms quickly moved in. After a good rain I see millions of worm castings on my native soil:

View attachment 18959354

UB

Marble cake ?I don't get it man you just like to argue. You had clay and then added sand and compost now you have happy worm-filled soil. My understanding is in general a good soil is a mix of all three

 

[Herbert Chickybaby]

Adding sand to clay is like adding marbles to a canister of flour. You have done nothing to change the soil structure. Only copious amounts of organics can do that.

Did I mention I've been cursed with clay soils all my life?

@Herbert Chickybaby, do you have a limestone type soil? What's the pH? I can guess no lime and a low pH, right?

My original veggie garden was a 12" raised bed, 6' W X 100' long. I back filled with 50/50 washed builders sand (clean with no clay) and double grind organics. I soon learned that size was overkill and reduced the size to a more manageable 4.5' X 50' raised bed. Again, that's over tight red clay. Earthworms quickly moved in. After a good rain I see millions of worm castings on my native soil:

View attachment 18959354

UB

I'm pretty sure it is not a limestone clay or soil, its pretty orange iron rich stuff. It certainly does have a worm population though.

 

[Andr]

Does "GUARANTEED ANALYSIS" ring a bell?

Greensand's only "attribute" is K. Never touch the stuff.

Shit is snake oil - wrong NPK for citrus, no micros, a MUST for citrus - Fe, Zn, B, Mn. Your typical "organic and natural" rip off that targets dummies who don't understand plant nutrition but will believe anything if the label touts "organic". That industry is all about marketing to a particular mindset, cult.

View attachment 18959342

Hello! I do the same hobby as you. Please share your opinion about the ratio of elements in the solution that you have come to at the moment for the flowering and growing season? Thank you!

 

[Andr]

Does "GUARANTEED ANALYSIS" ring a bell?

Greensand's only "attribute" is K. Never touch the stuff.

Shit is snake oil - wrong NPK for citrus, no micros, a MUST for citrus - Fe, Zn, B, Mn. Your typical "organic and natural" rip off that targets dummies who don't understand plant nutrition but will believe anything if the label touts "organic". That industry is all about marketing to a particular mindset, cult.

View attachment 18959342

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

Hello! I do the same hobby as you. Please share your opinion about the ratio of elements in the solution that you have come to at the moment for the flowering and growing season? Thank you!

Howdy! As I wrote in the Nutrition forum one being the "when do I P/K", I don't believe in bloom foods. They're only sold as a gimmick and marketing tool. Additional amounts of P and/or K are not flowering stimulants. Natural or synthetic hormones are.

 

[Andr]

Howdy! As I wrote in the Nutrition forum one being the "when do I P/K", I don't believe in bloom foods. They're only sold as a gimmick and marketing tool. Additional amounts of P and/or K are not flowering stimulants. Natural or synthetic hormones are.

Hello. I wanted to ask about the formula or ratio of elements in the N-P-K solution, which in your opinion are optimal for the vegetative and flowering stages? For example 1-1-2