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Guest
Actually I could use 40 and I'd be just right.I started in 2001 at 135-140 and did 48 weeks of pegalated interferon for hep C,taht dropped me to about 120.Then a year or so later I quit drinking beer and dropped another 10-15 lbs.Can you believe I drank through 48 depressing weeks of interferon only to quit a year later?My lifes been goofy like that..Anyway tested Hep undetectable just 6 months ago so it was worth it.I'm going to fatten up,somethings been holding me back and now its gone..just like the akahol!
i'll give both you skinny skinnies some extra weight.
i'm tipping the scales at a measly 307 lbs.
i'm tipping the scales at a measly 307 lbs.
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Guest
Damn bro,you should change your handle from coctail frank to Big E. Brautwurst lol!I hope you didnt take offense man,nobody looks as bad as I do.
At 6'1" and 192, I could stand to lose another 15 lb. I also need to quit smoking. You really don't give a shit about yourself until you have several heart attacks. Then you start to get a little scared after the 7th. Thankfully, they finally put in a stent, something they should have done three years ago. I might not have had the last 6 if they had.
Soilman, ask cf what he eats and do the same. Or maybe you two can get in a blender and split the weight. CF, you could give Shaq a run for his money. He is around the same weight. My baby boy is 6'3" and 270.
Soilman, ask cf what he eats and do the same. Or maybe you two can get in a blender and split the weight. CF, you could give Shaq a run for his money. He is around the same weight. My baby boy is 6'3" and 270.
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DB2004
I spoke with the prez of the local IBEW. He informed me that 12 AWG NMD will handle 20 amps of continuous load. It can handle as much as 30 amps, even 40 amps, but only temp, depending on duration of current draw, ambient temp, etc. Don't know about code in US or elsewhere, but 12AWG will safely handle 20 amps. It's what's installed for electric heating, 2400 watt radiant heaters. If the wire is being fed to only one device though, no intermittent off and on of other appliances. I'm not here to debate eletrical code or safety. When I do build items, I always exceed the sizing of wiring and components. Make sure all Flips are wired with 600V wire, 12AWG.
Best Regards
DB2004
Best Regards
DB2004
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DB2004
#14, #12,and #10 wire are held down specifalcly in the NEC to establish margin.
The current carrying capacity of a wire or cable is primarily driven by the temperature rating of the insulation used. Higher temperature insulation allows for more loss in the wire (or even a higher amibent if needed).
See Table 310.16. #12 wire is rated for 25 amps using even 60 C insulation. 240.4(D) imposes the #14 @ 15 A, #12 @ 20 A, and #10 @ 30 A (all in copper) rules.
There are a number of specific cases that allow these limits to be exceeded (motors, hermatic compressors, welders).
When these cables are derated in conduit for multiple runs you start with the full rated amperage also.
From the Canadian Electrical Code:
You can breaker #12 wire with a 30A breaker and a #14 wire with a 20A breaker if the circuit is used only for baseboard heating. Previously electric heat was not considered a fixed load, therefore the circuit could only be loaded to 80% capacity. Now you can use higher rated breakers for #14 and #12 cable only when they supply fixed heating loads. I'm quoting Rule 62-114(8) of the CEC, so don't ask me to explain.
The current carrying capacity of a wire or cable is primarily driven by the temperature rating of the insulation used. Higher temperature insulation allows for more loss in the wire (or even a higher amibent if needed).
See Table 310.16. #12 wire is rated for 25 amps using even 60 C insulation. 240.4(D) imposes the #14 @ 15 A, #12 @ 20 A, and #10 @ 30 A (all in copper) rules.
There are a number of specific cases that allow these limits to be exceeded (motors, hermatic compressors, welders).
When these cables are derated in conduit for multiple runs you start with the full rated amperage also.
From the Canadian Electrical Code:
You can breaker #12 wire with a 30A breaker and a #14 wire with a 20A breaker if the circuit is used only for baseboard heating. Previously electric heat was not considered a fixed load, therefore the circuit could only be loaded to 80% capacity. Now you can use higher rated breakers for #14 and #12 cable only when they supply fixed heating loads. I'm quoting Rule 62-114(8) of the CEC, so don't ask me to explain.
Congrats on the CEC, but #1 the THREAD STARTER is in the US, and #2 they will in the near future be taking on an IEC as in International Elec.Code. I sincerly doubt they will allow what you are talking about... AND just because the wire can HANDLE the load, doesn't mean code allows for it. YOU ARE REQUIRED TO USE AN OVERCURRENT PROTECTIVE DEVICE RATED AT 20A FOR #12AWG WIRE. Stop trying to prove your point, there is a reason the code was decided upon.........
the code is different for electric heating devices as compared to lighting loads.
this is not the initial arguement tho.
nobody was looking for advice on wiring heaters.
wire sizing and loads is a whole different ballgame when it comes to hid lights man.
this is not the initial arguement tho.
nobody was looking for advice on wiring heaters.
wire sizing and loads is a whole different ballgame when it comes to hid lights man.
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DB2004
Canada will never adopt your guidelines for electrical. The US thinks that everyone should follow their procedures and guidelines. What next, Canada start putting people in prison for 30 years for an ounce of pot like you do in the US.
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Guest
Lighten up dude...This isnt the tokers den where anti americanism isnt not only accepted,but encouraged.This American thinks it was the stupidest thing in the world to teach me a system of weights and measures that the rest of the world would never use.Go ahead and sterotype us all bro,its your loss.Head on over to the den,theres a guy named Genkison over there that will flap his left wing so hard and fast it'll blow your hair back lol.Another words..I dont think he likes america either
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Guest
DB2004 said in part above:
The current carrying capacity of a wire or cable is primarily driven by the temperature rating of the insulation used. Higher temperature insulation allows for more loss in the wire (or even a higher amibent if needed).
That's pure bullshit. The current carrying capacity of a solid wire is based on the wire material(copper , aluminum, etc.) and its "cross sectional area". Given that other variables are held constant....for example as temperature aproaches absolute zero, roughly -270 degrees Kelvin, a wires ability to conduct increases dramatically. The underlying basis for the trains in Germany that use superconducting magnets.
To the extent insulation prohibits a conducting wire to dissipate heat, it will actually decrease that wires current carrying capacity. Why? As a wire's temperature rises its current carrying capacity decrease
The insulation used on a wire has Zero, nada, nothing to do with the wires inherent ability to conduct electricity.
I don't give a shit what they say in Canada.
The current carrying capacity of a wire or cable is primarily driven by the temperature rating of the insulation used. Higher temperature insulation allows for more loss in the wire (or even a higher amibent if needed).
That's pure bullshit. The current carrying capacity of a solid wire is based on the wire material(copper , aluminum, etc.) and its "cross sectional area". Given that other variables are held constant....for example as temperature aproaches absolute zero, roughly -270 degrees Kelvin, a wires ability to conduct increases dramatically. The underlying basis for the trains in Germany that use superconducting magnets.
To the extent insulation prohibits a conducting wire to dissipate heat, it will actually decrease that wires current carrying capacity. Why? As a wire's temperature rises its current carrying capacity decrease
The insulation used on a wire has Zero, nada, nothing to do with the wires inherent ability to conduct electricity.
I don't give a shit what they say in Canada.
ThereIsHope
Member
COPPER WIRE:
14 awg = 15 amps
12 awg = 20 amps
10 awg = 30 amps
ALUMINUM WIRE:
12 awg = 15 amps
10 awg = 20 amps
8 awg = 30 amps
Do not exceed 80% of a breakers rated capacity.
If your romex (electrical) run is greater than 50 feet or so, upsize your wiring for line loss and resistance one wire size for safety.
Follow this rule and you will be within all applicable NEC codes and regs and safety safety safety ranges.
Cheap ass extention cord wiring is your biggest enemy (other than loose lips) and so is overloading your circuits.
Peace
14 awg = 15 amps
12 awg = 20 amps
10 awg = 30 amps
ALUMINUM WIRE:
12 awg = 15 amps
10 awg = 20 amps
8 awg = 30 amps
Do not exceed 80% of a breakers rated capacity.
If your romex (electrical) run is greater than 50 feet or so, upsize your wiring for line loss and resistance one wire size for safety.
Follow this rule and you will be within all applicable NEC codes and regs and safety safety safety ranges.
Cheap ass extention cord wiring is your biggest enemy (other than loose lips) and so is overloading your circuits.
Peace
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Guest
Gee Obli I thought 14 wire with some badass insulation could carry more amperage than 10 wire with some run of the mill insulation..I wasnt going to say anything because if you've noticed,someone thinks American electricians are idiots or something...I'd sure like to buy stock in this amperage increasing insulation!Can you imagine how much you can save on conductor costs!!LOL O god this is too much...
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Thereishope your listings are off by 5 amps unless he is talking more than 3 per raceway. And 50 feet of wire will cause a slight voltage drop but nothing to worry about. This is why house receptacles are not 125V they're around 122-123 because of the VD in the length of wire. You can calculate length of wire if you have the VD or you can get the VD with length of wire. Not like anybody would want to. Conducters at .80 you sir are correct about that but it depends on number of conductors in a raceway 4-6 being .8. Good Day
