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Ice-tube cloner from WallyWorld

H

harryleggs

I have also used this Walmart cloner for both cloning and seed prop. It works very well to germinate seeds.
 
F

feral

All methods will work. It's really a factor on one's environment that the cut's are in.
At the moment I have 3 separate methods in my grow room to see which will give me the most consistent results considering my grow room's environment
1. bubble cloner
2. tupperware with willow water
3. my version of the OP's cloner. If I can get to REI I'll get some tubes but I refuse to patronize Walmart. What I like about my set up is that I can check and remove when ready each clone without worrying about screwing up the other's. Not all things root equal and will be ready at different times.
 

High Country

Give me a Kenworth truck, an 18 speed box and I'll
Veteran
HIKO TRAY, 40 CLONES, ALL HAVE ROOTS.

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father

New member
Thanx Burnt Rope!!!! great thread, i've got ROOTS. i've been trying for over a year to get cuttings to do more than "slowly die"(a horrible thing to watch) i found this thread anow "I"VE GOT ROOTS". Would you belive that low temps were my whole problem? lol :)

Now my only problem is i have so many succesfull clones that i'm over my plant count. terrible problem, right? We all have our cross to bear I guess:)---- father
 
M

mrred

i tried some cheap trays that look like hiko, with a single hole in the bottom, they suck, because its hard to get the plant out and i dont think the roots grow good with single holes i nthe middle

how do you take those clones out of the tray HC?
 

High Country

Give me a Kenworth truck, an 18 speed box and I'll
Veteran
i tried some cheap trays that look like hiko, with a single hole in the bottom, they suck, because its hard to get the plant out and i dont think the roots grow good with single holes i nthe middle

how do you take those clones out of the tray HC?

The Hiko trays are filled with a mix of 60/40 coco/perlite.

When the clones have a well established root system I simply push them out with my finger from the bottom. The roots hold the coco/perlite together and I place them into hydroton in a ebb/flow SOG system.

They can also be put straight into soil no problems.

It is similar to a Jiffy pellet however I find the Hiko trays allow the root system to develop better. I'm going to veg this lot of clones for a week or so in the Hiko tray while waiting for another run to finish.

The clones will then go into the SOG straight on to 12/12.
 

Budley Doright

Active member
Veteran
Thanx Burnt Rope!!!! great thread, i've got ROOTS. i've been trying for over a year to get cuttings to do more than "slowly die"(a horrible thing to watch) i found this thread anow "I"VE GOT ROOTS". Would you belive that low temps were my whole problem? lol :)

Now my only problem is i have so many succesfull clones that i'm over my plant count. terrible problem, right? We all have our cross to bear I guess:)---- father


Frankly Ive mentioned temps in this tread about a zillion times....

It was over on overgrow the first time I really understood how important temps are....


I had a cloning thread on OG and I thought it couldnt fail....

it was another wick type method....


I would get on avg 90% a friend on the other hand was only getting a couple now and then... but we were using exactly the same material....

everything was the same....


Then I asked about his temps.... way too low....


he fixed it and like.......BAMM!!!!!


Many cloning threads either have no idea how important temps are...or have not really looked at various temps and how they effect cloning....


Some have even said that temps as high as I use will cause mold...


yet because this method doesnt use a dome.....


I have yet to see any mold ....ever.....
 

High Country

Give me a Kenworth truck, an 18 speed box and I'll
Veteran
24C or 75F is the optimum temp for roots to develop. Any cloning method I try always has a heat mat set at these temps. I propagate plants for a living. We use heat beds that can hold 1000's of clones. All are thermostat controlled set at those temps.
 

Budley Doright

Active member
Veteran
24C or 75F is the optimum temp for roots to develop. Any cloning method I try always has a heat mat set at these temps. I propagate plants for a living. We use heat beds that can hold 1000's of clones. All are thermostat controlled set at those temps.


I really dont care.... there are few people who have a clue who would say that there is an ideal temp for all plants....

There are a plethera of folks who disagree with you....

Many plants root best when the plants a very warm but it creates issues keeping the plants hydrated....

In this medium higher temps are possible....


Bottom Heat

Automatic mist and bottom heat revolutionized the nursery industry around the time of the second world war. Before that most production was by hardwood cuttings, which was slow and effective for a limited number of species. These days there are very few plants that cannot be propagated from cuttings and those that can't can usually be done by tissue culture.

Bottom heat acts a stimulant for the production of roots as well as for faster root growth. In general bottom heat should be ten degrees hotter than the ambient air temperature, although any amount of bottom heat is useful. I have mine set on a thermostat that turns it off during the day when it is over 75F in the propagating room to save propane. The temperature should not be allowed to fall below sixty five and optimal seems to be about 75F ot 80F for most species.
Some species are more sensitive to heat than others. Most of the tropicals I have grown in the past, liked it hot. Maples also root much faster when hot. It is thought that a few cultivars of Juniperus actually prefer cooler temperatures once they callus, but the jury is still out on that one. I have had Fuchsia root in five days on high heat, pomegranate in seven to ten. I even had some Japanese Maples begin to root in ten days last year.
The easiest and cheapest way for the homeowner to get into bottom heat is by purchasing a heating mat and controller, you can get a small system for about one hundred bucks. They use a lot of electricity, even a small one, be prepared for your bill to jump. Larger systems are hot water fed. A regular hot water heater can be used with a small circulation pump hooked to thermostat. Commercial units are called Biotherm and manufactured by a small company here in California. I designed and built my own with drip tubing parts. It has worked fine for eight years.

==========================


this from another source....


As long as air temperatures can remain fairly cool (in the 60's is ideal), it can work very well to place the cuttings under florescent lights for 12 to 14 hours per day (regular cool 40 watt tubes in shop light fixtures work fine, no need for fancy "grow lights"). If you use a seedling heat mat with a thermostat, the ideal root zone temperature for cuttings is between 75 and 80 degrees F. Whenever the rooting medium becomes dry, dampen with water (mixed with small amounts of fertilizer if you wish), but do not soak the medium.
 

High Country

Give me a Kenworth truck, an 18 speed box and I'll
Veteran
I really dont care.... there are few people who have a clue who would say that there is an ideal temp for all plants....

There are a plethera of folks who disagree with you....

Many plants root best when the plants a very warm but it creates issues keeping the plants hydrated....

In this medium higher temps are possible....


Bottom Heat

Automatic mist and bottom heat revolutionized the nursery industry around the time of the second world war. Before that most production was by hardwood cuttings, which was slow and effective for a limited number of species. These days there are very few plants that cannot be propagated from cuttings and those that can't can usually be done by tissue culture.

Bottom heat acts a stimulant for the production of roots as well as for faster root growth. In general bottom heat should be ten degrees hotter than the ambient air temperature, although any amount of bottom heat is useful. I have mine set on a thermostat that turns it off during the day when it is over 75F in the propagating room to save propane. The temperature should not be allowed to fall below sixty five and optimal seems to be about 75F ot 80F for most species.
Some species are more sensitive to heat than others. Most of the tropicals I have grown in the past, liked it hot. Maples also root much faster when hot. It is thought that a few cultivars of Juniperus actually prefer cooler temperatures once they callus, but the jury is still out on that one. I have had Fuchsia root in five days on high heat, pomegranate in seven to ten. I even had some Japanese Maples begin to root in ten days last year.
The easiest and cheapest way for the homeowner to get into bottom heat is by purchasing a heating mat and controller, you can get a small system for about one hundred bucks. They use a lot of electricity, even a small one, be prepared for your bill to jump. Larger systems are hot water fed. A regular hot water heater can be used with a small circulation pump hooked to thermostat. Commercial units are called Biotherm and manufactured by a small company here in California. I designed and built my own with drip tubing parts. It has worked fine for eight years.

==========================


this from another source....


As long as air temperatures can remain fairly cool (in the 60's is ideal), it can work very well to place the cuttings under florescent lights for 12 to 14 hours per day (regular cool 40 watt tubes in shop light fixtures work fine, no need for fancy "grow lights"). If you use a seedling heat mat with a thermostat, the ideal root zone temperature for cuttings is between 75 and 80 degrees F. Whenever the rooting medium becomes dry, dampen with water (mixed with small amounts of fertilizer if you wish), but do not soak the medium.

At work we use heat beds set at 24C or 75F and automatic misting. This is evaporation controlled. The whole idea is to keep the root zone warm and the vegetation on the clone cool and relatively moist. When moisture evaporates off the vegetation the mist jets turn on for a short burst. Also air conditioning in summer set at 24C.
 

spadedNfaded

Active member
Veteran
Has anyone purchase one of these thigns lately?

I was at 2 walmarts in the area and neither one had anything like it.

It seems everyone's changing over to the horizontal, long, ice cube trays for bottles.

Thanks!

- SubN
 

bloyd

Well-known member
Veteran
Bought some within the last month. I had to try a few different walmarts before I found them as well, they were by the other ice cube trays at the location I was successful at.
 

High Country

Give me a Kenworth truck, an 18 speed box and I'll
Veteran
i tried some cheap trays that look like hiko, with a single hole in the bottom, they suck, because its hard to get the plant out and i dont think the roots grow good with single holes i nthe middle

how do you take those clones out of the tray HC?

This is how they come out, all 40.


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High Country

Give me a Kenworth truck, an 18 speed box and I'll
Veteran
I just stick my middle finger gently up the bottom hole, push slowly, grab overhead vegetation, pull out, put clone plug straight into hydroton in ebb/flow tray.
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
I just want to thank OP for this thread. I have had my first clone come out of this home made clonert. Im a novice to cloning and I tried Rapid Rooters with shitty success. All my clones in this cloner look much healthier without needing fan leaves clipped or a humidity dome. I removed the clone below at ten days, but I think Ill go 14 in the future as part of the vermiculite at the bottom broke free, but no root damage.



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Has anyone purchase one of these things lately? I was at 2 walmarts in the area and neither one had anything like it. - SubN

$3.22 bought last night, Mainstays brand, white black blue packaging. Scour the kitchen pot section, they should be right next to regular ice cube trays but you will be in the right area. Remember that Popsicle trays work too.

@feral I commend your fortitude for not shopping at the WalMart, That's a good thing Martha. I buy only what I have to from them. Not much else nearby unfortunately. When WM roles those prices down, they make a big deal out of it. Most of the time, they are only "price-matching" another store, but when your not looking, they roll those prices right back up. They don't mention that.

@High Country I like your style. :dance013:
 
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