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I'd love to see more pix of every thing especially the ladies. What I am really interested in is your observations on ease of work for each system, your thoughts on efficiencies such as trim time requirements for each system (i think they have different number of plants), and then or course the ratio I'd love to see for each system is [Total Grams / (Flower Wattage X Days in Flower)], but I think we should also look at this ratio [Total Grams / (Flower Room Square Footage X Days in Flower)]. Grams per wattday, and Grams per SQftday can tell us a lot. We all have watts, days, and square feet.
Thanks to icmag i'm now the proud owner of 3 Liters of Pure Flowers Bloom Booster Much Thanks everyone.
Here are some pics i snapped right after the lights went off at 28 days of flower or the start of week 5.
I only took a couple of the bato buckets; i'll grab some more soon.
It was easier to take pics of the under current rig; between the camera flashes it was pitch black so i didn't really know where i was aiming but some came out ok. Anyone know if a green light will affect the pics?
There you go... everything was taken on the same day; 28 of flower
Bato Buckets get H&G and the UC gets the Dutch Master Gold nutes; i'll be adding the pure flowers this week. Just added some top booster as per the H&G feeding chart.
Your transplant into the UnderCurrent has me reconsidering these as an option for my expansion. I would prefer to run the UnderCurrent/Bio-Bucket system; but need to go perpetual to make the most from my room. Do you think plants grown out in hydroton using ebb and flow would transplant as easily as your rockwool? I'm imagining similar results.
probably better; i'm only running the water at the bottom of the netpots to avoid soaking the rockwool i transplanted from; if i was running hydroton i could bump the water level to the to the top of the netpots and get room for more roots... i just happened to have plants in rockwool when i got the system and they were getting crowded out of my old bato bucket setup... i think the easiest way to go perpetual would be to just have a bunch of different tents in the same room; not that there is anything easy about that
Damn I hope your right on this. These things can be super resistant. I thought that I beat them several times throughout the fight, only to find them coming back stronger.
Though I did not try the imidacloprid treatment, so you may have got them. Just keep an eye on it. These things can be very persistant.
trust me man; the imidacloprid is the ONLY thing that works for root aphids 100%; the merit is the most concentrated pure form and i think it has the longest shelf life; this isn't something you're going to be using everyday; or every 6 months for that matter... it gets in the plants roots and anything that feeds on em dies...
great but what is the downside... it stays in the plant for 90 days(what affect this has on smoked flowers is anyones guess; it is used on lettuce and many other plants you buy in the supermarket and i know they haven't been growing for 90 days but it is an unknown and it is a pesticide; i think as far as systemic pesticides used on cannabis plants this is probably the longest lasting of them all so you have to make your own judgement call; personally where i live the air quality is so bad i doubt anything i'm doing is any worse than just going outside and breathing a lungfull of smog and particulate matter but that's just me.
that being said i treated the plants right when i noticed the root aphids; probably day 3 of veg and used merit in my res for 3 days with regular feeds and then emptied it out and replaced with a new batch of nutes. i vegged em for 76 days total and i'm going to let them flower for 9 weeks; doubt they'll come back.
it's great if you have moms that get em; they can really do a number on a plant if allowed to reach a critical mass and it's easy to mistake them for fungus gnats at first and try the normal bt treatment which has no affect on root aphids
i have a friend who uses azamax mixed at one ounce a gal as a soil drench; he said it worked for his root aphids but he still is battling fungus gnats so your milage may vary; personally i've never tried it so i can't recommend it 100% but if you're worried about the 90 day half life of the imidacloprid it is an alternative that hasn't really been documented here on the forums; i'm sure people would love an organic less harsh solution but if you need a solution and its the difference between keeping or losing a crop you gotta do what you gotta do.
To be honest right now my indoor plants are super healthy; i've really been anal about isolating clones in different locations for like up to a week and treating them with a variety of organic products; even so far as repotting them in fresh media... they came with fungus gnats and hopefully nothing else; they were a gift and it would have been rude of me to refuse but i've been able to keep everything in my indoor garden in check; no bugs at all; no mites; no gnats; no whiteflys; not even a random spider hanging out in the corner... i think adding gnatrol to all nute mixes new clones or anything in new soil that has been stored outside as a precautionary measure to kill whatever eggs may be present before they are activated by the water is a wonderful way to save yourself headaches in the future.
thanks for the props on the plants by the way; i'm always worried about trimming too little or too much; 2 grows ago i really plucked a lot of fan leaves and i think it retarded the bud development; still i'm growing flowers not leaves so i tend to treat them like hybrid tea roses; i really tried to pull all the small branches out from the middle of the canopy but the pics don't really show that so far; i'll try to get some more to give you an idea of how extensively pruned they are; it's just that i didn't think the 600s would penetrate to grow anything of quality deeper in the canopy especially with how much the top is going to bulk up; btw... if i'm not wrong some are starting to show the first signs of turning purple on the edges of leaves and calyxes; don't think it is deficiency related either...
that reminds me; i haven't mentioned environment much; room is usually is the 78-80 range with it reading 85-88 right under the lights in the hottest spot; there is plenty of air movement; a 18k btu ac is in the window set to 62 degrees as result the nights drop down to about 66-68 degrees; i have a couple t5s running 24/0 in a mom tent which keeps the room from getting any colder; co2 is at 1200 ppm although i'll bump it up to 1500ppm for the next two weeks and then drop it down to 500ppm for the final 2 weeks; i ran it around 800ppm in veg; this kills the humidity so i actually have a humidifier in the room and it stays around 50%; again i'll take it out and but in a dehumidifier for the last 3 weeks when the buds really bulk up and mold/pm/rot could be an issue
and thermoflow ducting kicks the premium reinforced made of origami paper hydrofarm crap they call ductin's ass from here to Timbuktu
Far as the two systems are doing; the bato buckets are drinking up the nutes like crazy; 20gals ever 3-4 days for 6 plants in the 9x9 batos which are the smaller ones; they're loving it though; really high ec at times but they don't show any burn
The UC6xl is less work; the auto topoff with ro water is nice as it drinks just as much as the buckets if not more; hardest part is adding enough nutes slowly and diluted enough as to not burn any of the roots.. a tad bit time consuming but running around 500ppm; and normally dropping to 200ppm the plants look great; i'm going to try to keep the ppms higher more consistently during the bulking phase and i've been adding the pure flowers as well... still just going off ppms.
Plants look more or less the same in each system but only time will tell how they taste, smoke, and yield in the end
oh yeah... these dcxgoo make a cf scrubber work for its money; you can see the size on the one i have in one of the above pics; if i open the door and start messing with the plants i'll catch a wiff; before with the black widow there was no smell what so ever with the scrubber on so this is definitely one of the more stinky strains out there; and that's not a bad thing in my book
as always any questions; pic requests; critiques; and love are always appreciated
you guys are the ONLY ones i share this with
great thread! i've had my eye on the under current. is it worth the money?
root aphids?!? wow i thought i was the only one lucky enough to get those fucking bastards!!!
it took me 5 tries to get rid of them. pyrethreum helps a lot but never fully got rid of them.
azatrol in the rez worked very very well but i fear i missed a few. finally a triple treat of pyrethreum spraying, followed by azatrol bunking, followed by avid spraying finally eliminated them. those fucker suck!!!
Great thread. It looks like the DM gold is treating you well. Do you use the silica and max. I just started using the DM so far so good. Nice ladies and good luck
First off let me throw some kudos at you and say bravo for your work here.
My only critique would be I would like to see a full round of clones in at the same time for both systems with the same nute regimen from beginning to end.
This would be most excellent to watch for the duration and then we could compare apples to apples kinda, sorta for the most part.
I have four separate UC16xl systems and clonage will be in at the same time but may test different nute lines ex: Advanced, GH, H&G, Supernatural, DM etc…
Its not exact science but it should be a good footprint for the next generation as well as ourselves.
as far as the same nute regime goes it would be apples and oranges; i suppose i could use the dutch master gold in the batos if i feel so inclined but there is no way i could use the house and garden with the under currents... they like really low ppm... i've been running mine at 500ppm; the batos are at like 1450ppm when mixed up according to the h&g feed instructions... i've been supplementing the under current with the pure flowers and the h&g batos with floranectar
these actually were all from clones started at the same time and vegged in rockwool... nextime i'll veg the batos in rockwool and the ones in the undercurrent will be in hydroton; this time they're both in rockwool... although one is a netpot with water below it and the other is in a batobucket with a 2 inch deep reservoir at the bottom
the bato buckets are more work mixing up nutes; emptying the res, filling the res etc... the undercurrent takes care of itself for the most part which is a big plus in my book.... i can't wait to use the entire buckets for roots in the undercurrent this next round; i'm only using about half the water they can hold as not to soak the rockwool
oh yeah... stay away from cutting edge... doesn't like the high levels of dissolved oxygen in the undercurrents; i just don't see how you could add something like shooting powder to the epicenter without burning the crap out of your roots; i've heard a lot of bad things about h&g and the undercurrent from people who've ran it... i'd like to see how floranova and canna do... one part nutes would make a simple system even simpler... also stay away from the grow in the gh nute lineup... the n burns roots in dwc like nobodys business... lucas ratio of m:b will do u well
very impressed here.
love a good hydro grow. and your's is def a nice clean setup.
noticed your growing a goo cross?
i love the goo
was one of my fav smokes when i lived out in norcal
anyways.
goodluck and cant wait to see some more from ya!
I have a couple DWC units for mothers and such that I run Canna Aqua nutrients in and they do great.And of course I use Canna for my Ebb&Gro system too. But I was a hardcore Ionic nutrient user for many years with DWC systems before that. They are a one part grow, one part bloom nutrient and do great in that type of setup. I used them in conjunction with GH Florolicious Grow and Bloom with great results.
Looking forward to seeing some update pictures. Bring um on!!~~
The Bato Buckets; all at day 46... running H&G aqua flakes with all the fixings RO water and the H&G feeding chart for 8weeks... will flush with RO water at week 9.. i also add floranectar as the H&G line lacks a carbo loading product.