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Hydro bucket (hempy with extra reservoir)

dudin

Active member
Well it seems to work. Think the info provided by SRGB about swc makes it clear its doable. Dont destroy your fully functional setup, try with just one and se how it stands against your other. I think the new pots I bought is ideal. The air betwen the bottom of the medium and the rez should make the hempymix well airated and provide the rots with enough air even if they are submeged in still standing water.
 

dudin

Active member
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dudin

Active member
Got a Square root garden bag to try out. Will be fun but I have to think a bit how to use it in my setup. Thanxs SRGB
3347xxg.jpg
 

dudin

Active member
The ladies are around 80 Days otnow. Think it is a bit too slow. Maybe insulate a little better now it gets down to 10c at night. Please don't scream disaster because it ain't but a bit slow I agree.
Hope to get better pictures next time now that I have removed the protective plastic on the lens. :$
 

SRGB

Member
A Square Root® Garden Bag Configuration Option

A Square Root® Garden Bag Configuration Option

dudin:
Got a Square root garden bag to try out. Will be fun but I have to think a bit how to use it in my setup. Thanxs SRGB

Hi, dudin.

You are very welcome. Thank you!

One potential option for incorporating the 1 gallon Square Root® Garden Bag into your system would be to acquire and use a generic food storage type container between the two existing stations that you have placed into the tote.

There are generic clear plastic food storage containers that are approximately 30cm (length) x 20cm (width). That size container could possibly be positioned similar to this:

A
_____________________
| ____`` B ____```____ |
|/````\ |````| /````\|
||`L``| |[SR
]| |`R``||
|\____/ |____| \____/|
|____________________|

Top View

"A" - Top view of the system tote.

"L" - The left station of the system.

"R" - The right station of the system.

"B" - The 30cm x 20 cm food storage container, centered between "L" and "R" stations.

"[SR]" - The Square Root® Garden Bag, centered inside of "B" food storage container.

The above configuration is, we believe, similar to the image that you depicted in post #83 (picture 2nd from the top); substituting the unit positioned at the center-front for "[SR]" inside of "B".

It appears as though the 20cm (w) model could be set on top of the adjacent buckets ("L" and "R").

--

There may be food storage type containers that have a narrower width profile than the generic 20cm (w) model; though those dimensions may work in your current configuration.

Just an option that might be considered for inclusion of the SRBGB into your system.

--

Your recent pictures illustrate a simple, functional and efficient garden. Nice work.

Best,
/SRGB/
 
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dudin

Active member
Something like this, will fill the bottom of the plastic container with hydrotons and perhaps duct tape it to prevent light loo leak in. What do you think SRGB?
dyoaw3.jpg
 

SRGB

Member
External Basins, Reservoirs and Troughs with SRBGB`s and SWC

External Basins, Reservoirs and Troughs with SRBGB`s and SWC

dudin:
Something like this, will fill the bottom of the plastic container with hydrotons and perhaps duct tape it to prevent light loo leak in. What do you think SRGB?


Hi, dudin.

The approach that you are considering should work. We developed Square Root® Garden Bags (SRBGB) to be adaptable and scalable through traditional and experimental gardening methods.

We will present some additional considerations that might be helpful:

External Basins, Reservoirs and Troughs with SRBGB`s and SWC
During experiments, we found external basins, reservoirs or troughs that were slightly wider than the SRBGB to be advatageous. We additionally found that, if possible, sourcing a low-walled basin was advantageous.

These external basin characteristics tended to provide:

a. External root zone management. Greater access to the roots that grow into the external basin from within the SRBGB.

b. Environmental air flow. Greater access to the environmental air flow of the garden through the walls of the SRBGB. The lower walls permit greater air permeation through the exposed walls of the SRBGB, increasing available oxygen in the root zone inside of and outside of the SRBGB. Roots might be able to adapt to grow into environmental air, fully exposed to light and not submerged in a solution. In experiments, roots grew out of the walls of the SRBGB, above the run-off level in the basin, and down the walls of the SRBGB into the run-off solution. Some root parts appeared to simply grow into air, and not actively grow down into the solution; remain suspended on the outside of the SRBGB, in the ambient air. Additionally, providing wider space between the walls of the SRBGB and the walls of the external basin might increase the ability of the root zone both inside and outside of the SRBGB to exchange gases with the environment.

We found the ideal external basin to be as shallow walled as possible, deep enough to hold the run-off from one to two waterings.

``/|:SR:|\
|``|::::|!`|<-- Roots growing through walls of SRBGB into environmental air.
|``|::::|!`|<-- Roots growing through walls of SRBGB into nutrient solution.
|~~|!!!!|~~|<-- Nutrient run-off level, 1.25cm - 2.5cm (1/2 - 1 inch).
|__________|

Side view.

` - Environmental air flow.
: - Medium.
! - Root growth.
~ - Nutrient level.

Approximate run-off level 1.25cm - 2.5cm for 1 liter to 1 gallon SRBGB. That amount of run-off, with air movement and saturation into the media inside of the SRBGB, should deplete gradually over a 24h to 72h period. If temperatures increased, air movement (circulation) increased and dehumidification occurred, the level dropped at a faster rate.

If the gardener waters a minimal amount, the accumulated run-off should be a large amount of the applied solution; as there is ability for neraly full drainage. Full drainage (water flow through the SRBGB) is generally only decreased by the type of medium inside of the SRBGB. A gardener can, if desired, water less using this method. Or, water only when needed, by observing the level in the external basin, and accounting for the saturation and moisture rentention capacity of the given medium.

The tentative objective being to water as less as possible over a given 24h - 72h period, to accomplish:

c) Maintain a relatively fresh solution in the basin; by not watering when the external basin level is high (2.5cm - 5cm, depending on size or capacity of both trough and SRBGB) . That technique tended to, we believe, utilize the run-off in the basin entirely; and supply a fresh (pH stable) nutrient solution approximately every 24h - 72h - in a non-automated, non-recirculated system. In practice, the nutrient solution was recirculated every 24h - 72h, without ever extracting, recirculating through automation, or dumping run-off. In essence, a gardener has the abilty to determine how much to water by the depletion rate of the nutrient level in the external basin.

One of our experimental gardening pursuits, for greater efficiency, was to water as less as possible, while providing constant moisture and fresh nutrient solution.

--

How frequently do you intend to water?

How much nutrient solution, by volume, do you intend to apply per watering?

Will you be top-feeding, with drainage accumulation held in external basin?

What level of nutrient solution to you intend to maintain in the external basin?

--

We do believe that whichever methods that you develop and experiment with, the SRBGB is well suited for most gardening adaptations.
Raising the exposed-wall height of the SRBGB to approximately 3/4 above the with lip of the container in post #93, with the bottom 1/4 inside of the container, would appear to accomplish the exposure to environmental air flow that we post about above. Even with a 1.25cm to 2.5cm depth of accumulated water, the roots should grow down into the hydroton and solution below. Hydroton characteristics might tend not to hold moisture on its collidial surfaces as well as perlite or pumice, but when compacted together should raise the water level so that a minimal amount of water (nutrient solution) will still rise due to the volume of the hydroton taking up physical space in the basin. Your illustrated tentative method should work.

We only shared the above on basin selection, environmental air flow and watering for possible consideration, in the hope that our experimental observations might be helpful.

We look forward to your journaling of your configuration(s). Please do experiment and develop your own methods and techniques that work for you in your garden.

Best,
/SRGB/
 
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