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Hydro bucket (hempy with extra reservoir)
- Thread starter dudin
- Start date
Dudin - Your plants are being over fed. That's why the leaves are giving you what is known as "the claw". Drop you feeds 0.2 ec and see how they react, adjust accordingly from there. You should never need to go over 1.5 ec EVER in any plants life. I generally keep my feeds between 0.8-1.2 ec in veg and flower.
If you post the guaranteed analysis for each of the nutes you want to use I will work up an exact profile for you. If I was you and flying in the dark (no ec meter) i'd drop the bloom to 20ml and see how that works out. If they continue to claw try 15ml, if seeing deficencies try 25ml. No sure what supervit is? Guessing a vitamin complex of sorts, but does it have any NPK?
SRGB
Member
Notes on Shallow Water Culture (SWC)
Notes on Shallow Water Culture (SWC)
dudin:
Yes a hybrid perhaps. Hempy-swc. But I doubt you could fill a swc and close the door and come back 1 1/2 week later and everything is perfect. I dont cheek ph or ec or water temp. Haven't read too much about swc do you have any advise?
Hi, dudin.
Nice work.
We normally do not post in members` threads, and we will promptly delete this post at your request.
We are only posting due to your interest and pursuits in methods similar to those we have experimented in.
We found that plants and trees will grow and thrive in a soilless medium when they are provided with a shallow, constant source of water and nutrient solution. When roots of the plant or tree are able to grow - unrestricted - into a shallow basin, they will; even when no mechanical aeration is applied.
We found that maintaining an approximate depth of 1 to 2 inches of solution was optimal, regardless of the size of the plant or tree, or the container size the plant or tree was held in. The key factor was determining precisely how much solution a given plant or tree drew up from the shallow reservoir over a given period - and only replacing that same amount over the course of the season. This involved a fair amount of variables, including temperature and water vapor extraction from the gardening area, size of the cultivar, and amount of light applied.
In general, a gardener can water from the top, into the soilless medium every day, or every other day, with the run-off from that top-feeding becoming the shallow reservoir that the plant or tree uptakes during the span of 24 to 72 hours. What observed is that once the roots inside of the container are saturated, and drainage occurs, the soilless medium becomes aerated by the vacuum. The roots are able to then grow into the shallow reservoir below. Or, employ an automated system that top-feeds constantly or at intervals - while still maintaining the shallow (1 - 2 inch) level of run-off in the basin.
A gardener can then gauge approximately how much solution that particular cultivar is consuming over a given period by the depletion of solution in the shallow basin. Ideally, the gardener would maintain at least a damp to moist basin for the roots to grow into. The gardener can calculate exactly how much water or nutrient solution to supply over a 24 to 72 hour period - as long as environmental variables remain roughly constant. This is as it relates to hand watering. An automated feed system would only require a drain at the level determined by the gardener. We recommend 2 inches. Then, the feed could be continuous.
We found that low-walled external reservoirs offered the best physical dimensions for permitting the container with access to environmental air in the garden. The garden`s environmental air is most accessible to the roots inside of the container when there are holes in the container. This combination of low-walled external reservoir and container with holes essentially provides the plant or tree with access to both air and water constantly. By low-walled, we mean approximately 4 to 8 inches. This exposes the walls of the container to the environmental oxygen circulating in the gardening area; as most gardens are equipped with some form of air circulation.
We designed our products with the above variables as a guide. Thousands of holes covering the surfaces (walls and bottom) of our SRBGB, permitting both uninterrupted access to both environmental air and water. We believe that the Square Root Garden Bag is well suited to adaptation into an Shallow Water Culture system; providing the gardener with the advantages of permeable walls for roots to grow through, affix oxygen, exchange environmental gases and uptake nutrient solution - while still insulating the primary root mass.
Shallow Water Culture (SWC), in our view, is an effective and efficient method to grow both plants and trees. The initial configuration mainly consists of determining exactly how much water or nutrient solution to provide; so that the gardener does not over-water the container, resulting in an external basin of run-off that does not deplete within 24 to 72 hours - or not providing enough moisture, resulting in roots not continuing to grow into the external reservoir. The former occurrence prevents the gardener from correctly gauging how much water is actually being used by the plant or tree; the latter prevents the plant or tree from growing into the shallow basin. With an automated system, these concerns might be still present; just transferred to the maintenance of the pump and attached delivery system (feed lines).
Roots will grow into the basin without an aerator; even with adding H202 into the solution, though occasionally adding H202 to the solution supplies direct dissolved oxygen to the roots, reducing potential anaerobic organism growth.
We found that roots did grow to form mats in a shallow basin exposed to to garden`s environment itself. We believe that the shallow depth maintained encourages root health. The roots are able to assimilate both water and environmental air, while the root mass inside of the container remains predominantly insulated.
It should be noted that when roots do grow into the external basin, it is the root tips that are growing; similar to the terminal growing part of the shoot. As the root tips grow, the older portion of the root mass becomes thicker and increases in mass.
The important point is that the root tips are the portion of the root mass that should always be at least moist - as it is the actively growing portion.
We will attach links below, detailing some of the methods referenced above, and illustrations depicting the concept. The links are to our sub-forum here, and 2 links to our website`s Methods and Gallery pages.
If you have any questions, please feel free to PM us, or post here, in your thread. Again, if you would like for us to remove or delete this post from your thread, let us know.
Kind regards,
/SRGB/
ICMAG links:
Square Root Brand® Garden Bag - Drain-To-No-Waste [Methods]
Square Root® Brand Garden Bag - Low-Tech Gardening [Methods]
Square Root® Brand Garden Bag - Roots Gallery
SRBGB-Roots
External links:
Square Root® Garden Bag - Methods
Square Root® Garden Bag - Gallery
Notes on Shallow Water Culture (SWC)
dudin:
Yes a hybrid perhaps. Hempy-swc. But I doubt you could fill a swc and close the door and come back 1 1/2 week later and everything is perfect. I dont cheek ph or ec or water temp. Haven't read too much about swc do you have any advise?
Hi, dudin.
Nice work.
We normally do not post in members` threads, and we will promptly delete this post at your request.
We are only posting due to your interest and pursuits in methods similar to those we have experimented in.
We found that plants and trees will grow and thrive in a soilless medium when they are provided with a shallow, constant source of water and nutrient solution. When roots of the plant or tree are able to grow - unrestricted - into a shallow basin, they will; even when no mechanical aeration is applied.
We found that maintaining an approximate depth of 1 to 2 inches of solution was optimal, regardless of the size of the plant or tree, or the container size the plant or tree was held in. The key factor was determining precisely how much solution a given plant or tree drew up from the shallow reservoir over a given period - and only replacing that same amount over the course of the season. This involved a fair amount of variables, including temperature and water vapor extraction from the gardening area, size of the cultivar, and amount of light applied.
In general, a gardener can water from the top, into the soilless medium every day, or every other day, with the run-off from that top-feeding becoming the shallow reservoir that the plant or tree uptakes during the span of 24 to 72 hours. What observed is that once the roots inside of the container are saturated, and drainage occurs, the soilless medium becomes aerated by the vacuum. The roots are able to then grow into the shallow reservoir below. Or, employ an automated system that top-feeds constantly or at intervals - while still maintaining the shallow (1 - 2 inch) level of run-off in the basin.
A gardener can then gauge approximately how much solution that particular cultivar is consuming over a given period by the depletion of solution in the shallow basin. Ideally, the gardener would maintain at least a damp to moist basin for the roots to grow into. The gardener can calculate exactly how much water or nutrient solution to supply over a 24 to 72 hour period - as long as environmental variables remain roughly constant. This is as it relates to hand watering. An automated feed system would only require a drain at the level determined by the gardener. We recommend 2 inches. Then, the feed could be continuous.
We found that low-walled external reservoirs offered the best physical dimensions for permitting the container with access to environmental air in the garden. The garden`s environmental air is most accessible to the roots inside of the container when there are holes in the container. This combination of low-walled external reservoir and container with holes essentially provides the plant or tree with access to both air and water constantly. By low-walled, we mean approximately 4 to 8 inches. This exposes the walls of the container to the environmental oxygen circulating in the gardening area; as most gardens are equipped with some form of air circulation.
We designed our products with the above variables as a guide. Thousands of holes covering the surfaces (walls and bottom) of our SRBGB, permitting both uninterrupted access to both environmental air and water. We believe that the Square Root Garden Bag is well suited to adaptation into an Shallow Water Culture system; providing the gardener with the advantages of permeable walls for roots to grow through, affix oxygen, exchange environmental gases and uptake nutrient solution - while still insulating the primary root mass.
Shallow Water Culture (SWC), in our view, is an effective and efficient method to grow both plants and trees. The initial configuration mainly consists of determining exactly how much water or nutrient solution to provide; so that the gardener does not over-water the container, resulting in an external basin of run-off that does not deplete within 24 to 72 hours - or not providing enough moisture, resulting in roots not continuing to grow into the external reservoir. The former occurrence prevents the gardener from correctly gauging how much water is actually being used by the plant or tree; the latter prevents the plant or tree from growing into the shallow basin. With an automated system, these concerns might be still present; just transferred to the maintenance of the pump and attached delivery system (feed lines).
Roots will grow into the basin without an aerator; even with adding H202 into the solution, though occasionally adding H202 to the solution supplies direct dissolved oxygen to the roots, reducing potential anaerobic organism growth.
We found that roots did grow to form mats in a shallow basin exposed to to garden`s environment itself. We believe that the shallow depth maintained encourages root health. The roots are able to assimilate both water and environmental air, while the root mass inside of the container remains predominantly insulated.
It should be noted that when roots do grow into the external basin, it is the root tips that are growing; similar to the terminal growing part of the shoot. As the root tips grow, the older portion of the root mass becomes thicker and increases in mass.
The important point is that the root tips are the portion of the root mass that should always be at least moist - as it is the actively growing portion.
We will attach links below, detailing some of the methods referenced above, and illustrations depicting the concept. The links are to our sub-forum here, and 2 links to our website`s Methods and Gallery pages.
If you have any questions, please feel free to PM us, or post here, in your thread. Again, if you would like for us to remove or delete this post from your thread, let us know.
Kind regards,
/SRGB/
ICMAG links:
Square Root Brand® Garden Bag - Drain-To-No-Waste [Methods]
Square Root® Brand Garden Bag - Low-Tech Gardening [Methods]
Square Root® Brand Garden Bag - Roots Gallery
SRBGB-Roots
External links:
Square Root® Garden Bag - Methods
Square Root® Garden Bag - Gallery
SRGB
Member
dudin:
Thanks that was a lot of useful info and that explains why this work and why my roots fill the "basin" rez without rotting.
Hi, dudin.
Thanks.
We have not found that shallow water culture is a direct cause for root rot. We describe some our observations regarding root rot below; along with varied details of some of our experiments.
Thanks, again for sharing your work here in your thread.
St3ve:
Nice post SRGB.. your findings are inline with what I have experienced in my own garden.
Hi, St3ve.
Thanks.
Soilless gardening can be dynamic, and ultimately have very simple universal principles with endless variation.
-----
Some of the experiments that we did in soilless gardening. See link (external) below. The particular page referenced depicts illustrations of a) soilless mix of calcined clay and pumice; b) root development in soilless mix inside of 1 liter SRBGB; root development in shallow basin extending from 1 liter SRBGB; and root development suspended in air extending from 1 liter SRBGB.
Square Root® Garden Bag | Gallery07 | SRBGB, Calcined Clay, Roots
Irrigated without automation, simply top-fed until minimal run-off; no mechanical aeration applied to nutrient solution in fully exposed basin. For scale of nutrient level in the basin, note that there were approximately a half cup of approximately 1/8 inch pumice strewn into the basin. Roots of that particular specimen (growing from right-to-left from the 1 liter Square Root® Bag) were only partially submerged. Portions of the length of those roots were above the water level.
We considered that adding posting further observations relevant to our previous post might be advantageous to discussing the subject of Shallow Water Culture (SWC) in greater detail. They are shared based on experiments and observations with our product, Square Root® Garden Bag.
Soilless Gardening and SWC
Variations
We tested several irrigation methods. 1) Applied when that level depleted to only a damp surface, with the entirety of the root mass above the damp basin surface; 2) continued level of nutrient solution (and, or, water) maintained (from 1/8 inch to approximately 2 to 4 inches for a 20 gallon SRBGB) in the external basin, thereby roots were constantly submereged beneath the water level; 3) elevating the SRBGB above the water level completely, on a `riser`, while maintaining root tip contact with the solution below, among other variations. All methods work, as the specimens generally will adapt to the conditions - as long as the growing root tips are in contact with water, and the damp-to-dr-period does not continue to the basin is completely dry for over 72 hours.
Watering. Root zone management.
We should note here that we found it advantageous, when the SRBGB was in direct contact with the surface of the basin, to water by gauging the basin level, rather than by any fixed schedule or interval; or by the apparent dampness or dryness of the top of the media. Once roots have established in an external reservoir, their growth (and inversely, water consumption) can be meausred relatively accurately by how much solution depletes over a span. A gardener has the option of watering when the level depletes, not because a given amount of hours or days have elapsed; feeding the plant or tree water or nutrient solution when the physical water level indicates that by virtue of its depletion. The growth cycle of plants or trees is not necessarily a straight line through the season. At periods the water might deplete within hours, others a day or two.
The root mass will survive over 72 hours if not in contact with moisture, however, the root tips might dry. The root tips being the actively growing (cell dividing) portion of the mass.
An air gap between the container and the basin might be advantageous, even if the mid-section of the roots becomes suspended in air in that gap. Root tips submerged in water should act as a wick - as long as the gap is not too expansive 2 - 4 inches.
Watering may also relate to raising the container and porosity.
Raising the container.
A method that we found to be advantageous (for 1 liter and 1 gallon SRBGB`s) was to disperse a layer of 1/8 inch to 1/2 inch pumice underneath the SRBGB, to create a riser (see illustration with pumice in basin). For 5 gallon to 20 gallon Square Root® Garden Bags, we employed a sturdier 2 to 4 inch riser, as a 20 gallon SRGBG filled with coco coir and, or, pumice could weight 80 to 120 pounds. The purpose for the riser, at least in our experiments, was to elevated the base of the SRBGB so that roots would grow unobstructed from the bottom of the Square Root® Bag. Roots will grow through the bottom of the SRBGB, even if set directly onto the basin surface, without a riser; as a mat. However, with a slight elevation, they will grow laterally into the solution (see illustration), without having to extend through the mat from the bottom-center of the SRBGB to the joint of the wall meeting the base.
Oxygen; aeration; aerobic and anaerobic activity.
The gardener can, at any point, add mechanical aeration to the basin (open air hose; soaker hose; air stone). Adding oxygen, while an essential element, may also increase the rate of growth of algae or other microbial activity that prefer a moist environment with higher level of oxygen. This can be deterred, to some degree, by covering the basin from light exposure. We did not find that covering the basin, whether small basin with 1 liter or large trough with 20 gallon SRBGB to be required. When algae accrued, we could reduce its presence by watering with H202 included in the solution. If the algae had become greenish, the H202 would actually bubble on the root mass; cleansing the roots to to an appreciable level. Agitating the exposed root mass would then allow the algae to break off into the solution at large, unattaching from the bond onto the root mass.
Ideally, oxygen is supplied to the root by the garden itself. With roots that have grown out of the SRBGB exposed to air on the surfae of the solution level, without any cover, they appear to be able to assimilate environmental air flow. A moderate laminar, or lateral air flow might be employed; to produce air flow over the surface of the solution in the basin. A small fan at water-surface level might achieve this effect.
Notes on root rot.
We did not find that shallow water culture led to root rot. We found that allowing a cycle from wet to damp provided the roots sufficent moisture and oxygen. Even when root were continuously submerged we did not find that root rot set in. Managin a basin that included organic materials or nutrients could be a different challenge, but would still work. We preferred inorganic nutrients and a low starting pH (5.0-5.5; slightly acidic), which we found to fluctuate less during the span where the basin was not recycled (24-72 hours). We also experimented with depp water culture (DWC) in SRBGB`s, without any onset of root rot.
Root rot can occur in any ordinary container of coco coir, soil, or compacted and fine soilless mix, when the drainage on the inside of the container is not adequate. The saturation of coco coir in the center of the container can accumulate and not permit oxygen to fill the gaps; especially if the coco coir is fine and tightly packed inside of the container. We found that, when using coco coir as a medium in particular, that watering only every 24 hors was sufficient. When coco coir or soil is mixed with perlite, pumice or other inert matter that provides gaps inside of the container, continuous watering could work well, as the medium was not so compacted as to maintain saturation, and thus not fully drain over a given period and thereby dry out enough to let oxygen fill the gaps between the particulates.
Media; substrate porosity; drainage; pH; nutrients.
A mix of perlite, coco coir and large pumice or other coarse stone might be well suited for drainge, porosity for air lateral air flow through the walls of the SRBGB, and re-use.
pH can drift inside and outside of a given container. pH directly affects which elements are solute enough to be exchanged by the roots during their interactive process with a nutrient solution.
It is more difficult to accurately measure the pH inside of the container than outside of the container - when a medium is present.
We found that feeding at a lower pH with an inorganic nutrient solution tended to keep the pH in the external reservoir (from run-off), lower over the course of its leveling depletion (24-72 hours) in the external basin. The gardener might also check the pH of the medium and reservoir if complication with healthy growth and development are observed. We found 5.0-5.5 pH to be optimal. Adjust to suit your specimens` requirements. Each specimen may thrive at a slightly different pH; permitting or preventing some elements the plant may or may not prefer at a certain stage.
If the external reservoir is kept shallow, the nutrient solution is invariably replaced relatively quickly; every 24-72 hours. The greater the volume of solution, the lengthier span between full cycles of the solution - as the gardener may wait for the basin to deplete.
Another approach is to feed until only the run-off commenses; repeat daily - by automation or manually. This would practically replace the solution daily - without wasting any - increasing efficiency.
Porosity and air are generally beneficial. If the container is slightly raised, and drained, air can access the container - if the container itslf is porous - from all sides. The air can then fill the vaccum left by the water poured through the media from the top.
Roots will generally grow out the side of containers if given then porous channels. The water itself exerts an upward pressure in the basin. Raising the container slightly might deminish this upward pressure. The raised container can become a pore for roots to grow into and down further into the shallow basin.
A soilless gardening technique.
It might be perfectly appropriate for the gardener to tend the garden by doing nothing except observing the garden.
Range of options
We did a fair amount of experiments developing SRBGB, and methods of usage. Both without any automation, and fully automated. Each might require attention to the cycles of wet-to-dry in the basin, over a season. It is possible to water only when the level depletes. For this, a range of automation can be applied, the simplest being a system that provides a top-feeding only when the basin solution level drops to damp. This will keep the root environment inside and outside of the SRBGB consistently moist to wet, respectively. Or, simply water without automation once every 24-48 hours.
The reservoir is, to our observations, intended to be inside of the container in a system presented by the author Hempy.
There are variations based on the Bato [sic] system.
The systems generally maintain a constant water level inside of the container, without external media or water attached.
The variation that you have presented includes reservoirs both insideand outside the container. This is advantageous when roots are actually growing outside out the primary container. It might be more difficult to accurately measure water consumption by roots inside of the container if the level is maintained at a constant level - without roots uptaking and thereby depleting the external reservoir - especially if the given container does not drain completely.
Adding the reservoir when roots begin to grow through to the external reservoir might be then applicable, in order not to saturate the inside bottom of a container that might not be fully drained. This is only a possible consideration, in relation to the raiser note.
The experimental gardener might inevitably develop their own unique methods; or modify the several at large methods in some form; as your thread is presenting.
-----
We developed the Square Root® Garden Bag for several purposes; one of which is the capacity for virtual full drainage of the SRBGB. There is no reservoir inside of the container except for the saturation of the media. Once roots grow through the walls and bottom of the SRBGB, the gardner is free to employ a variety of methods and techniques; including SWC, DWC, NFT, actively recirculating techniques - or basic and simple hand watering. We believe that the range of options available to be employed in SRBGB`s might be advantageous for the soilless gardener.
We have applied fully automated recirculating methods, in large trough, with shallow level maintained; timed intervals, pumps. The automated equipment might require as much observation as the specimens.
We found that the simplest approach was to utilize inert media (calcined clay, pumice, perlite, pea gravel) a moderate amount of coco coir (1/5-1/3), in an SRBGB raised slightly, and water once per day.
--
We hope that this will be helpful in your gardening pursuits.
Best,
/SRGB/
Thanks that was a lot of useful info and that explains why this work and why my roots fill the "basin" rez without rotting.
Hi, dudin.
Thanks.
We have not found that shallow water culture is a direct cause for root rot. We describe some our observations regarding root rot below; along with varied details of some of our experiments.
Thanks, again for sharing your work here in your thread.
St3ve:
Nice post SRGB.. your findings are inline with what I have experienced in my own garden.
Hi, St3ve.
Thanks.
Soilless gardening can be dynamic, and ultimately have very simple universal principles with endless variation.
-----
Some of the experiments that we did in soilless gardening. See link (external) below. The particular page referenced depicts illustrations of a) soilless mix of calcined clay and pumice; b) root development in soilless mix inside of 1 liter SRBGB; root development in shallow basin extending from 1 liter SRBGB; and root development suspended in air extending from 1 liter SRBGB.
Square Root® Garden Bag | Gallery07 | SRBGB, Calcined Clay, Roots
Irrigated without automation, simply top-fed until minimal run-off; no mechanical aeration applied to nutrient solution in fully exposed basin. For scale of nutrient level in the basin, note that there were approximately a half cup of approximately 1/8 inch pumice strewn into the basin. Roots of that particular specimen (growing from right-to-left from the 1 liter Square Root® Bag) were only partially submerged. Portions of the length of those roots were above the water level.
We considered that adding posting further observations relevant to our previous post might be advantageous to discussing the subject of Shallow Water Culture (SWC) in greater detail. They are shared based on experiments and observations with our product, Square Root® Garden Bag.
Soilless Gardening and SWC
Variations
We tested several irrigation methods. 1) Applied when that level depleted to only a damp surface, with the entirety of the root mass above the damp basin surface; 2) continued level of nutrient solution (and, or, water) maintained (from 1/8 inch to approximately 2 to 4 inches for a 20 gallon SRBGB) in the external basin, thereby roots were constantly submereged beneath the water level; 3) elevating the SRBGB above the water level completely, on a `riser`, while maintaining root tip contact with the solution below, among other variations. All methods work, as the specimens generally will adapt to the conditions - as long as the growing root tips are in contact with water, and the damp-to-dr-period does not continue to the basin is completely dry for over 72 hours.
Watering. Root zone management.
We should note here that we found it advantageous, when the SRBGB was in direct contact with the surface of the basin, to water by gauging the basin level, rather than by any fixed schedule or interval; or by the apparent dampness or dryness of the top of the media. Once roots have established in an external reservoir, their growth (and inversely, water consumption) can be meausred relatively accurately by how much solution depletes over a span. A gardener has the option of watering when the level depletes, not because a given amount of hours or days have elapsed; feeding the plant or tree water or nutrient solution when the physical water level indicates that by virtue of its depletion. The growth cycle of plants or trees is not necessarily a straight line through the season. At periods the water might deplete within hours, others a day or two.
The root mass will survive over 72 hours if not in contact with moisture, however, the root tips might dry. The root tips being the actively growing (cell dividing) portion of the mass.
An air gap between the container and the basin might be advantageous, even if the mid-section of the roots becomes suspended in air in that gap. Root tips submerged in water should act as a wick - as long as the gap is not too expansive 2 - 4 inches.
Watering may also relate to raising the container and porosity.
Raising the container.
A method that we found to be advantageous (for 1 liter and 1 gallon SRBGB`s) was to disperse a layer of 1/8 inch to 1/2 inch pumice underneath the SRBGB, to create a riser (see illustration with pumice in basin). For 5 gallon to 20 gallon Square Root® Garden Bags, we employed a sturdier 2 to 4 inch riser, as a 20 gallon SRGBG filled with coco coir and, or, pumice could weight 80 to 120 pounds. The purpose for the riser, at least in our experiments, was to elevated the base of the SRBGB so that roots would grow unobstructed from the bottom of the Square Root® Bag. Roots will grow through the bottom of the SRBGB, even if set directly onto the basin surface, without a riser; as a mat. However, with a slight elevation, they will grow laterally into the solution (see illustration), without having to extend through the mat from the bottom-center of the SRBGB to the joint of the wall meeting the base.
Oxygen; aeration; aerobic and anaerobic activity.
The gardener can, at any point, add mechanical aeration to the basin (open air hose; soaker hose; air stone). Adding oxygen, while an essential element, may also increase the rate of growth of algae or other microbial activity that prefer a moist environment with higher level of oxygen. This can be deterred, to some degree, by covering the basin from light exposure. We did not find that covering the basin, whether small basin with 1 liter or large trough with 20 gallon SRBGB to be required. When algae accrued, we could reduce its presence by watering with H202 included in the solution. If the algae had become greenish, the H202 would actually bubble on the root mass; cleansing the roots to to an appreciable level. Agitating the exposed root mass would then allow the algae to break off into the solution at large, unattaching from the bond onto the root mass.
Ideally, oxygen is supplied to the root by the garden itself. With roots that have grown out of the SRBGB exposed to air on the surfae of the solution level, without any cover, they appear to be able to assimilate environmental air flow. A moderate laminar, or lateral air flow might be employed; to produce air flow over the surface of the solution in the basin. A small fan at water-surface level might achieve this effect.
Notes on root rot.
We did not find that shallow water culture led to root rot. We found that allowing a cycle from wet to damp provided the roots sufficent moisture and oxygen. Even when root were continuously submerged we did not find that root rot set in. Managin a basin that included organic materials or nutrients could be a different challenge, but would still work. We preferred inorganic nutrients and a low starting pH (5.0-5.5; slightly acidic), which we found to fluctuate less during the span where the basin was not recycled (24-72 hours). We also experimented with depp water culture (DWC) in SRBGB`s, without any onset of root rot.
Root rot can occur in any ordinary container of coco coir, soil, or compacted and fine soilless mix, when the drainage on the inside of the container is not adequate. The saturation of coco coir in the center of the container can accumulate and not permit oxygen to fill the gaps; especially if the coco coir is fine and tightly packed inside of the container. We found that, when using coco coir as a medium in particular, that watering only every 24 hors was sufficient. When coco coir or soil is mixed with perlite, pumice or other inert matter that provides gaps inside of the container, continuous watering could work well, as the medium was not so compacted as to maintain saturation, and thus not fully drain over a given period and thereby dry out enough to let oxygen fill the gaps between the particulates.
Media; substrate porosity; drainage; pH; nutrients.
A mix of perlite, coco coir and large pumice or other coarse stone might be well suited for drainge, porosity for air lateral air flow through the walls of the SRBGB, and re-use.
pH can drift inside and outside of a given container. pH directly affects which elements are solute enough to be exchanged by the roots during their interactive process with a nutrient solution.
It is more difficult to accurately measure the pH inside of the container than outside of the container - when a medium is present.
We found that feeding at a lower pH with an inorganic nutrient solution tended to keep the pH in the external reservoir (from run-off), lower over the course of its leveling depletion (24-72 hours) in the external basin. The gardener might also check the pH of the medium and reservoir if complication with healthy growth and development are observed. We found 5.0-5.5 pH to be optimal. Adjust to suit your specimens` requirements. Each specimen may thrive at a slightly different pH; permitting or preventing some elements the plant may or may not prefer at a certain stage.
If the external reservoir is kept shallow, the nutrient solution is invariably replaced relatively quickly; every 24-72 hours. The greater the volume of solution, the lengthier span between full cycles of the solution - as the gardener may wait for the basin to deplete.
Another approach is to feed until only the run-off commenses; repeat daily - by automation or manually. This would practically replace the solution daily - without wasting any - increasing efficiency.
Porosity and air are generally beneficial. If the container is slightly raised, and drained, air can access the container - if the container itslf is porous - from all sides. The air can then fill the vaccum left by the water poured through the media from the top.
Roots will generally grow out the side of containers if given then porous channels. The water itself exerts an upward pressure in the basin. Raising the container slightly might deminish this upward pressure. The raised container can become a pore for roots to grow into and down further into the shallow basin.
A soilless gardening technique.
It might be perfectly appropriate for the gardener to tend the garden by doing nothing except observing the garden.
Range of options
We did a fair amount of experiments developing SRBGB, and methods of usage. Both without any automation, and fully automated. Each might require attention to the cycles of wet-to-dry in the basin, over a season. It is possible to water only when the level depletes. For this, a range of automation can be applied, the simplest being a system that provides a top-feeding only when the basin solution level drops to damp. This will keep the root environment inside and outside of the SRBGB consistently moist to wet, respectively. Or, simply water without automation once every 24-48 hours.
The reservoir is, to our observations, intended to be inside of the container in a system presented by the author Hempy.
There are variations based on the Bato [sic] system.
The systems generally maintain a constant water level inside of the container, without external media or water attached.
The variation that you have presented includes reservoirs both insideand outside the container. This is advantageous when roots are actually growing outside out the primary container. It might be more difficult to accurately measure water consumption by roots inside of the container if the level is maintained at a constant level - without roots uptaking and thereby depleting the external reservoir - especially if the given container does not drain completely.
Adding the reservoir when roots begin to grow through to the external reservoir might be then applicable, in order not to saturate the inside bottom of a container that might not be fully drained. This is only a possible consideration, in relation to the raiser note.
The experimental gardener might inevitably develop their own unique methods; or modify the several at large methods in some form; as your thread is presenting.
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We developed the Square Root® Garden Bag for several purposes; one of which is the capacity for virtual full drainage of the SRBGB. There is no reservoir inside of the container except for the saturation of the media. Once roots grow through the walls and bottom of the SRBGB, the gardner is free to employ a variety of methods and techniques; including SWC, DWC, NFT, actively recirculating techniques - or basic and simple hand watering. We believe that the range of options available to be employed in SRBGB`s might be advantageous for the soilless gardener.
We have applied fully automated recirculating methods, in large trough, with shallow level maintained; timed intervals, pumps. The automated equipment might require as much observation as the specimens.
We found that the simplest approach was to utilize inert media (calcined clay, pumice, perlite, pea gravel) a moderate amount of coco coir (1/5-1/3), in an SRBGB raised slightly, and water once per day.
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We hope that this will be helpful in your gardening pursuits.
Best,
/SRGB/
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Ok I use these now in my new grow works about the same way a shallow rez and an airy hempy mix. Will put some air down the watering hole. In these pots I get the airy space between the bottom of the inner pot and waterline. Like them a lot. Think they will do even better then what I got now.
SRGB
Member
dudin:
Ok I use these now in my new grow works about the same way a shallow rez and an airy hempy mix. Will put some air down the watering hole. In these pots I get the airy space between the bottom of the inner pot and waterline. Like them a lot. Think they will do even better then what I got now.
Hi, dudin.
Interesting.
What is the capacity of the container? Between 1 liter and 1 gallon?
What do you do when you want to transplant to a larger container?
We developed the SRBGB to eliminate transplanting altogether. A gardener can simply place the entire smaller SRBGB into the larger SRBGB - and the roots will continue to grow through the walls and bootom of the SRBGB.
See:
Square Root® Garden Bag | Gallery04
The top four illustrations was part of the root growth surrounding a 1 liter SRBGB, after the season (there is a 1 liter SRBGB underneath those roots covering the SRBGB in the top two).
Roots grew through the walls and bottom of the SRBGB up to the top edge of the 1 liter Square Root Bag, and continued to grow into the media in the larger 20 gallon SRBGB. Roots actually grew through the 20 gallon SRBGB as well, down into a large trough.
Kind regards,
/SRGB/
Ok I use these now in my new grow works about the same way a shallow rez and an airy hempy mix. Will put some air down the watering hole. In these pots I get the airy space between the bottom of the inner pot and waterline. Like them a lot. Think they will do even better then what I got now.
Hi, dudin.
Interesting.
What is the capacity of the container? Between 1 liter and 1 gallon?
What do you do when you want to transplant to a larger container?
We developed the SRBGB to eliminate transplanting altogether. A gardener can simply place the entire smaller SRBGB into the larger SRBGB - and the roots will continue to grow through the walls and bootom of the SRBGB.
See:
Square Root® Garden Bag | Gallery04
The top four illustrations was part of the root growth surrounding a 1 liter SRBGB, after the season (there is a 1 liter SRBGB underneath those roots covering the SRBGB in the top two).
Roots grew through the walls and bottom of the SRBGB up to the top edge of the 1 liter Square Root Bag, and continued to grow into the media in the larger 20 gallon SRBGB. Roots actually grew through the 20 gallon SRBGB as well, down into a large trough.
Kind regards,
/SRGB/
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@SRGB This is how the other tent looks. two sizes of pots. If i remember right the smal pot takes 1,7L Hempymix and 1L rez teh big one takes 3.4L Hempy mix and 1.9L rez. The small ones is for the safe and the big ones is for the tent. Can barely fitt four in the tent and six small in the safe. I know its not much but I had beer cup challange in mind (as a good example). And the safe is just 50x55x150cm. Want many different strains and this size does limit the growth somewhat and I see that as a +. Dont transplant at all when using these (first time).
This is an awesome design. Glad to hear that the air helped.
By the way, the addition of the air stone makes it related to the OBBT and Bio Box methods in the Organic Hydro section. You've probably already dredged them, but there are some good threads in there about air and micro beneficials. Some will say not to be concerned with microbes in hydro, but I disagree.
Keep rockin' this clean rig.
By the way, the addition of the air stone makes it related to the OBBT and Bio Box methods in the Organic Hydro section. You've probably already dredged them, but there are some good threads in there about air and micro beneficials. Some will say not to be concerned with microbes in hydro, but I disagree.
Keep rockin' this clean rig.
I like those new pots and would like to do something like that in the future.
maybe a 2gl bucket sitting inside of a 5gl bucket (can you tell im a DIY'er) ive already got 12x2gl buckets wouldnt mind getting the extra supplies if it eventually cuts down on my watering time. making most of these things is the fun of growing for me
i just never thought of the wicking action that the perilite/vermiculite mix provides as a viable "watering system" until reading/discovering this thread, but it seems as though the wicking action is definitely valid enough to provide a sustainable growing enviornment.
think i'll do it with 4 setups first and then take it from there
