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Thank you StrainHunter,
I've used Nosema locustae (Nolo Bait) effectively in the past. Hopefully this cold weather has delayed hatching some and there is still time for this to be effective enough, there's not a whole lot of options out there man, they are very hard to kill. I have been wiped-out by grasshoppers before, fuggin biblical proportions, this is no joking matter, the war is on. It is usually not so bad in the coastal influenced areas, but for folks in dryer areas like say Californias Central Valley, oh man, mo betta to take this very seriously.-T
I've used Nosema locustae (Nolo Bait) effectively in the past. Hopefully this cold weather has delayed hatching some and there is still time for this to be effective enough, there's not a whole lot of options out there man, they are very hard to kill. I have been wiped-out by grasshoppers before, fuggin biblical proportions, this is no joking matter, the war is on. It is usually not so bad in the coastal influenced areas, but for folks in dryer areas like say Californias Central Valley, oh man, mo betta to take this very seriously.-T
Just got off the phone with my good friend in Mendo.
He said exactly the same thing you said:
Nolo Bait and that's it.
The only other thing I can think of is using Mosquito nets which brings you guys back to using the hoops.
Those nets can be bought by the roll and are cheap.
H
humboldtlocal
Here is the EWC I picked up the other day. I was given a sample of this EWC and told that a cup makes about 30 gallons of tea. They said add it to the water and stir for about 30 seconds and apply. I foliared with it and the girls really seamed to like it. A gallon container was $50. I will list exactly what is on the paper they gave me with it and then I have a couple questions. There is some crazy stuff in here and I look forward to hearing every ones thoughts.
Healthy Harvest Farms Worm 1000
A complete unique and revolutionary crafted micronized biodynamically composted instant blend
Healthy harvest worms are fed a super compost made from
Certified Organic Manures from cow, sheep, goat, horse,chicken, turkey, duck, pheasant, dove, quail, goose, alpaca, llamas, rabbit
Fish meal, fish bone meal, and liquid fish
Seaweed from the atlantic pacific and norwegian oceans
guanos from texas, philippines, indonesia, chile , peru,belize
Cerified organic hays and straws, of alfalfa,barley,wheat, spelt,oat and flax
Certified organic grains of corn, oat, flax. millet, wheat,milo,barley, and peas
clays: bentonite, kaolinite, montmorillonite
Lime stone, oyster shell lime, gypsum, dolomite lime. greensand, hard and soft rock phosphate,glacial rock dust, and over 30 different specialty rock dusts
Micronized crystals of : quartz, amethyst, citrine, aquamarine, alpis lazuli, chert, aventurine, onyx, baltic amber, columbian copal, moonstone, chalcedony, agate, carnelian, ametrine, ammolite, apatite, danburite, fossilized whale and dinosaur bones, petrified wood from indonesia, utah, arizona,and africa,colloidial gold, silver, copper, and zinc
Yucca solids and liquid humic and fulvic acids
Organic sugar and molasses
Bio Dynamic preparations: 500-508
Humboldt wild crafted nettle and horsetail tea
EM (OMRI) -liquid microbials and bokashi
All these ingredients are composted for one year before feeding to the worms, and after the worms have casted it, it is cured and aged for one more year.
I posted this in the Organic Fanatic collective group and those guys are telling me that they think it would be better to do a soil drench with than foliar. I sent an email to the farm to ask them about application instructions as there were none in the directions. I am also wondering if an atomizer will shred the benis? We are switching to the atv sprayer that Tom recommends next week and wondering if that will shred them as well. Here is the atv sprayer
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200347991_200347991
So what do you guys think?
Healthy Harvest Farms Worm 1000
A complete unique and revolutionary crafted micronized biodynamically composted instant blend
Healthy harvest worms are fed a super compost made from
Certified Organic Manures from cow, sheep, goat, horse,chicken, turkey, duck, pheasant, dove, quail, goose, alpaca, llamas, rabbit
Fish meal, fish bone meal, and liquid fish
Seaweed from the atlantic pacific and norwegian oceans
guanos from texas, philippines, indonesia, chile , peru,belize
Cerified organic hays and straws, of alfalfa,barley,wheat, spelt,oat and flax
Certified organic grains of corn, oat, flax. millet, wheat,milo,barley, and peas
clays: bentonite, kaolinite, montmorillonite
Lime stone, oyster shell lime, gypsum, dolomite lime. greensand, hard and soft rock phosphate,glacial rock dust, and over 30 different specialty rock dusts
Micronized crystals of : quartz, amethyst, citrine, aquamarine, alpis lazuli, chert, aventurine, onyx, baltic amber, columbian copal, moonstone, chalcedony, agate, carnelian, ametrine, ammolite, apatite, danburite, fossilized whale and dinosaur bones, petrified wood from indonesia, utah, arizona,and africa,colloidial gold, silver, copper, and zinc
Yucca solids and liquid humic and fulvic acids
Organic sugar and molasses
Bio Dynamic preparations: 500-508
Humboldt wild crafted nettle and horsetail tea
EM (OMRI) -liquid microbials and bokashi
All these ingredients are composted for one year before feeding to the worms, and after the worms have casted it, it is cured and aged for one more year.
I posted this in the Organic Fanatic collective group and those guys are telling me that they think it would be better to do a soil drench with than foliar. I sent an email to the farm to ask them about application instructions as there were none in the directions. I am also wondering if an atomizer will shred the benis? We are switching to the atv sprayer that Tom recommends next week and wondering if that will shred them as well. Here is the atv sprayer
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200347991_200347991
So what do you guys think?
localhero
Member
wow that is some very serious boutique sounding worm castings.
I guess at that price you would have to use it as a foliar. damn actually where can you get the compost they feed the worms? that sounds as good as the ewc. and the montmorillonite clay and bentonite are used as a colon cleanse, it absorbs heavy metals and detoxifies your colon. the guy i got my zeolite from told me montmorillonite was some kind of secret ingredient used by farmers and that it prevents disease. if you can afford it it sounds like it would make a good drench, thats what most teas are used as anyways. im sure you know that lol.
I guess at that price you would have to use it as a foliar. damn actually where can you get the compost they feed the worms? that sounds as good as the ewc. and the montmorillonite clay and bentonite are used as a colon cleanse, it absorbs heavy metals and detoxifies your colon. the guy i got my zeolite from told me montmorillonite was some kind of secret ingredient used by farmers and that it prevents disease. if you can afford it it sounds like it would make a good drench, thats what most teas are used as anyways. im sure you know that lol.
Those guys said that because they only know how to feed the soil, lol, but since they don't care about pH etc up in there, most of it would just go to waste anyway. Sounds precious and expensive, I would not waste it on the soil - it will go much further and do far more good as a foliar imo.
You can add a longer hose to that sprayer no problem (I did), but you may not be able to go very far up hill with it. I ended-up not using the quad battery at all (seemed insufficient), and bought a deep cycle battery special for the sprayer (charged it w/a solar panel in between sprays), then toted the works around on a garden cart (or quad if accessible) while working. You're going to love that sprayer and kiss goodbye hudsons and trombones for evermore. Fossilized whale and dinosaur bones, lol. -Tom
You can add a longer hose to that sprayer no problem (I did), but you may not be able to go very far up hill with it. I ended-up not using the quad battery at all (seemed insufficient), and bought a deep cycle battery special for the sprayer (charged it w/a solar panel in between sprays), then toted the works around on a garden cart (or quad if accessible) while working. You're going to love that sprayer and kiss goodbye hudsons and trombones for evermore. Fossilized whale and dinosaur bones, lol. -Tom
P
planty
dude the battery sprayer is cool but NCGA showed me to run a 1/2" main line down the row with 1/4" spaghetti line then hook that up to a tornado mister zip tied to a stake with the mister at plant height...and run it off the battery sprayer ..thanks NC
i am settin that up next after I put my dep together this week and take the weekend off to support jr tribe members and smoke bomb threat lol
i am settin that up next after I put my dep together this week and take the weekend off to support jr tribe members and smoke bomb threat lol
...and just how many gallons of this precious material will remain in those lines in your garden after each use Planty? or is it all overhead? or you run plain water through at the end and guess as to when it runs clear, or? You want to spray the bottom of the leaves mostly Planty - you want to really get in there, spray the stalk, etc, everything - full coverage. The sprayer he just bought blasts the shit out of it, it literally moves plant aside etc. I've tried automated foliar systems in the gpad before and found them not to work very well, but maybe I am misunderstanding. -T
P
planty
I'm not going to use that stuff T but if I were I would first get it going in a pail and then sieve it...same way I prepare HumiSolve and pretty much any thing else kinda grainy for foliar...
It is set up all over head and I will be running plain water through my garden has a nice down hill slope so i plan to do it from the top and the end caps will have screw off ends so I can drain them just like the zones in my irrigation system.
I'll just show ya when I get it done boss..I'm sure you'll like it...NC really is on to something trick with this...
Is there any way to keep the 16 gal tank agitated well? I know that is important when spraying fungal tea to keep the hyphae evenly distributed thru the volume..
It is set up all over head and I will be running plain water through my garden has a nice down hill slope so i plan to do it from the top and the end caps will have screw off ends so I can drain them just like the zones in my irrigation system.
I'll just show ya when I get it done boss..I'm sure you'll like it...NC really is on to something trick with this...
Is there any way to keep the 16 gal tank agitated well? I know that is important when spraying fungal tea to keep the hyphae evenly distributed thru the volume..
P
planty
T, I think you have it backwards...Aren't you supposed to be getting me the poly??
I love add on kits...
Hmm....
I love add on kits...
Hmm....
localhero
Member
Planty i dont know if this is what youre talking about but the recycling 35 gallon brewer i made using a small pond pump would distribute the fungi perfectly. and i checked the first tea made from it and although i dont have a scope, everything else looked the same as tea made from air. so i dont think it would kill things too badly.
P
planty
What did you check if you did not use a scope to know if it contained the same life forms in the same quantities as a Microbulator style tea brewer? (recycling vortex made with air diffusor which is just some pvc pipe with slits cut in it...) If I were you bro I would just get the 5 gallon KIS brewer and apply tea as a foliar...it'll go much farther and its much more effective that way..IMHO
Also, like the microbulator, the KIS 5 gal brewer rated very high when compost tea trials were done by the Yahoo! compost tea user group. If you join this group and search the archives you can find the results I am referencing...the test includes almost all the brewers you can buy and designs that are out there...testing was done with scopes
Also, like the microbulator, the KIS 5 gal brewer rated very high when compost tea trials were done by the Yahoo! compost tea user group. If you join this group and search the archives you can find the results I am referencing...the test includes almost all the brewers you can buy and designs that are out there...testing was done with scopes
localhero
Member
yeah youre right i dont have a way of checking, never have. i do need one badly and i need to research which microbes do what. i figured there must be something alive in my teas cus if it brews too long it dies and smells like amonia and if the air pump goes out then the tea smells like ammonia. so the only way, which isnt even a way to see if the recirc pump isnt killing everything is if the overall tea looks similar to teas made with air. which it does. ill run an experiment and shut the recirc off and see if it smells like ammonia.
thanks for the foliar tip, i learned from the organics for beginers thread and never knew you could just apply it as a foliar only. the teas i make are used to feed the plants in waterings and the little 5 gallon brewer just wasnt cutting it. plus i cant seem to find an adjustment to the recipe for making larger brews, it doesnt seem to be as simple as just double the recipe for double the water. there hasnt seemed to be a clear cut explanation of: should i dilute it per the amount of watering the plants need or make exactly the amount of tea that the watering requires, ie no cutting.
thanks for the foliar tip, i learned from the organics for beginers thread and never knew you could just apply it as a foliar only. the teas i make are used to feed the plants in waterings and the little 5 gallon brewer just wasnt cutting it. plus i cant seem to find an adjustment to the recipe for making larger brews, it doesnt seem to be as simple as just double the recipe for double the water. there hasnt seemed to be a clear cut explanation of: should i dilute it per the amount of watering the plants need or make exactly the amount of tea that the watering requires, ie no cutting.
H
humboldtlocal
Tom thanks for putting my mind at ease on the foliar and the info about the sprayer hose.
I set up over head misters in my green house one year to foliar with (growing purple urkel) and got stem mold mid season. I had never had that before. That urkel was so susceptible to everything. The idea of a foliar sprayer at each plant would be nice but to get an even underside of the leaf coating it would not cut it.
I won't be running any fertilizer through my water lines. That is what I like about this hot soil mix of Tom's that I followed and embellished on is the lack of feeding I will need to do till bloom. We will be doing a couple light top dressings with nitro bat and will probably mix in a cup or two of this EWC as well. Then hand watered. The new garden we are putting in will get a lot more of those feedings as that soil is only getting a little nitro bat mixed into it to begin with.
I often wonder on here why everyone doesn't just do exactly like Tom does. He has told us how to make our pots, what to put in them, what sprayer to buy and what to put in it. I know there are certain factors that will make every ones grow a little different but come on, the guy grows ten pound plants! Not to mention he already has the biggest plants of this year! Even I thought he was crazy when he was putting them outside in mid april. If I had this knowledge when I was first starting out, holy crap. No one helped me like this along the way. And most people in my neighborhood still aren't growing them that big.
I set up over head misters in my green house one year to foliar with (growing purple urkel) and got stem mold mid season. I had never had that before. That urkel was so susceptible to everything. The idea of a foliar sprayer at each plant would be nice but to get an even underside of the leaf coating it would not cut it. I won't be running any fertilizer through my water lines. That is what I like about this hot soil mix of Tom's that I followed and embellished on is the lack of feeding I will need to do till bloom. We will be doing a couple light top dressings with nitro bat and will probably mix in a cup or two of this EWC as well. Then hand watered. The new garden we are putting in will get a lot more of those feedings as that soil is only getting a little nitro bat mixed into it to begin with.
I often wonder on here why everyone doesn't just do exactly like Tom does. He has told us how to make our pots, what to put in them, what sprayer to buy and what to put in it. I know there are certain factors that will make every ones grow a little different but come on, the guy grows ten pound plants! Not to mention he already has the biggest plants of this year! Even I thought he was crazy when he was putting them outside in mid april. If I had this knowledge when I was first starting out, holy crap. No one helped me like this along the way. And most people in my neighborhood still aren't growing them that big.
P
planty
I'm not in Zone 14 any more or I would've been out in April too... I already was in my Green house
P
planty
Also you shared yours I'll share mine..
www.pro-soil.com Foundation 1-0-1 soybean based..hella amino acids and carbs..makes microlife and yield go up..thats what made the brawny nug as well as the final bloom
www.pro-soil.com Foundation 1-0-1 soybean based..hella amino acids and carbs..makes microlife and yield go up..thats what made the brawny nug as well as the final bloom
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planty
NC showed me about Pro Soil too..I like things with Pro in the name.. Pro soil.. Pro Mix...
H
humboldtlocal
I couldn't find the section for the Foundation 1-0-1 but this other stuff sounds scary.
but just check it out real good.
And this is their Organic line? I am sure you know what you are doing bro but I am a bit skeptical. Seams like it is very much developed with the large commercial farm in mind. I know you have a commercial farm
but just check it out real good.
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planty
You're right. This stuff is geared towards large farms that make corn, cotton etc,. well..mine makes ganja but those large farms already have an ag program implemented that for example during certain seasons uses nitric acid to pH balance in others phosphoric acid...also some are using things like grow more or buying MAP etc. ,and doing their own dosing based on a formula from an ag school some where.. The stuff from pro soil is designed to help those farms use less of that crap and increase soil health and crop health and yield ..just think what it will do to an NOP style program. They recently changed the fish meal I use and BioTron BXI to non NOP so I'm out of offical certification this year but that's just my luck..
