HP#13

[Green rasta]

I don't understand u reverted a clone via female to a male??? How is that possible??? Please someone explain can this really happen???

 

[gatoloco]

Using silver thiosulfate

some info from medical marijuana:

Preparation of STS:
First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.

Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.

Application:
The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.

Effects:
Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.

When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.

When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.

A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.

Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.

This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.

If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very carefulollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.

Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.

Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.

About the chemicals:
Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.

Here are links to some safety data. A Google search will bring up more information if needed.

Silver Nitrate info:
ICSC:NENG1116 International Chemical Safety Cards (WHO/IPCS/ILO) | CDC/NIOSH
http://www.lions.odu.edu/~redwards/... solution.pdf

For a realistic hazard level comparison, here is a link for the safety and handling data for Ammonium Nitrate, or common fertilizer:

Sodium thiosulfate is also a white crystalline chemical commonly used in photography; it is used in photographic fixers. Same general cautions apply, minus the staining. This formula uses the anhydrous type. Non-hazardous.

 

[Green rasta]

K thanx for explaining . I have a much better idea now. Two other questions does hp13 taste similar to la confidential& do ur cuts have leaf deformalities, kind of crinkle look?? Appreciate the info I'm try to see if one of my pops clonemothers is hp13 it's one of the best smokes I have ever had!! But the shitty part is he dosnt know the name. Thanx again peace grean rasta

 

[gatoloco]

Talk to me?? k? i supposed yes sorry, my english...
I dont had the pleasure to smoke or grow LA con, i cant compare. The hp13 dont have leaf deformalities or another grow problem, low vigor and 70%rooting in aseptic conditions ...

when i had tested the firsts hp13 cross i can send you some seeds if is possible, my grow room is little little and want many betatesters , you decide

peace

 

[Thunders77]

Has anybody grown out the Resin Seeds version of HP13 that they crossed with Sour D, and is it the real deal?

 

[gatoloco]

In few mounts i had some hp13 cross, a lot of years back my fam was test to cross some lavender, diesel, rockbud, c+bilbo, cheese and somemore x hp13, and we smoke only that for years, with some elite exception, and we present today thats cross for free to test for everybody, i supose over 1000 seeds will be for test.. Sorry for my english, i think that like a street dealer of medicine from 1835

peace

 

[Green rasta]

Gatoloco

Gatoloco

Thanx for the info amigo! I'd like to be a tester but I live in the us, as long as u send them discretly there shouldn't be problems k letme know when there done peace amigo grean rAsta

 

[michikush]

hp-13 x og

hp-13 x og



put these girls in 12-12 september 30 stocky stalks and nice growth these are gage green genetics if anyone interested will post em pushing flowers couple weeks

 

[kin_dawg]

you cant buy g13 haze but g13haze hybrids, different animals, and im pretty sure no one wants to smoke male flowers but its obviously the haze in the g13haze cross that makes it hazy....

You can buy g13haze pure ibl from mr nice seeds.
HP13 is a Nevil creation as most strains or related to something Nevil worked or sold. The chem diesels are obvious Nevil strain descendants.
HP is a seed that came from the pre-adfghan-invasion Maple Leaf seeds given to Nevil which also spawned Ortega, Afghan T (parent of super skunk) and so on. HP female (only) crossed with NL1 male and bx'd,a male from this was crossed with g13.
So many strains are can be attributed to Nevil, almost all of them.

 

[slausongardens]

people, hp13 is not g13/hp.. i dont know why its called hp13 but i dont think it is a cross of hash plant and g13.. at least it doesnt seem like it and it is nothing like the g13/hp line.

 

[Phillthy]

hp13 has nothing to do with g13.

 

[greenluv707]

hash plant #13............used in chem crosses from years ago.........

still some of my fav smoke........

 

[kin_dawg]

hp13 has nothing to do with g13.

My bad.

 

[MrSterling]

I think that like a street dealer of medicine from 1835

Not to necroquote, but that might be the greatest English quote from a non-English speaker that I've ever read.

 

[215 User]

Go to Gage Green forum to see my pic.....

See Bastard series.

 

[215 User]

NYCHP13 @ 54 days....Garlic/Chem pheno

 

[silverhazefiend]

^^ive been eyeing those for a while ..I wanna see how it turns out

 

[215 User]

Update @61 days.....

 

[Greyskull]

the real HP13 clone

 

[Cloneman]

Not to necroquote, but that might be the greatest English quote from a non-English speaker that I've ever read.

(from post #94)

Exactly what i thought....

I've got 5 RD Beach Bum Haze at 2 weeks old, Lineage: HP 13 X Nevil's Wreck. Will see how we go eh?