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How to make a PVC dripper manifold

Xare

Active member
I made an automatic drip irrigation system to get me off hand watering my hempy SOG.

It feeds my mothers and a 25 clone two liter hempy grow from the same 20 gallon rez. Lucas Formula.

In the rez there is an airstone and the pump, 325 GPH pushing 5.3 PSI

After the pump I have an inline filter to keep the drip system clear of any hair or fibers that may get inside the rez.

Each plant has a .5 gallon per hour dripper and the pump runs once a day for 8 mins to feed. I have some extra one gallon per hour drippers that I use in the mother room because they drink more water when they are large.

The drippers I use are "cleanable" which means you can unscrew them from its connection to a 1/4 inch tube and wash them out if there is a blockage. Or screw on any other size dripper.

I also have shut off valves for the drip lines in the mother room so I can change things about as it suits me.
 

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I agree with the PVC cutter but have found two problems with them 1. they seem to distort the pipe a little bit 2. they are tough on the hands when cutting a lot of pipe. That said they are cleaner and give a nicer cut. I might go with a more expensive version next time I want to do some cutting.
 

bilbobonger

Member
Great thread! Thanks for all the info. Been handwatering in coco, but I'm planning on setting up some drippers (ones that steak in with the cage deal on top).

FWIW, I'm running a 4 by 8 table, with the res underneath. I'd planned, but am now wondering whether it's necessary, to install somekind of antisyphon type deal (either before or after the filter, DK which is better) to keep the tubing charged, preventing it from draining back into my res. I figure this will help to keep a more even water distribution, and prevent any algae growth in my tubes from draining back into my res (had some really nasty BA problems when running E&F). Anyone else around setting their drippers up like this, or does the elevation of the filter alone prevent this backflow from occurring?
 
Hi I am starting a new project on a 4x8 and it would neeed less sites but larger space . I will onl have 8 pots per 4x8 but there 5 gallon rockwool flock.... so longer feed times..

anyway. I have been seeing that many people go with a tee and branch design for the manifold..;ile in the pictures her from west coat growers site.. drip2sm.png drip_schematics.png UniFlow-old_sample.png

do you think there could be an advantage of the branch over the hoop loop like yours .. just looking to feedback on which style to build
 
pico-

Thank you SO much for writing up such detailed yet simple instructions. I had toyed with the idea of trying an automated drip setup for my pots of coco coir for some time, but this thread made it stupidly easy! :D

PVC drip FTW!


ass051911.jpg



Those are some ASS (Afghani Sweet Skunk, lol) at about 6.5 weeks from seed. They're exploding! The roots are starting to poke out of those 1 gallon pots.

The manifold itself only took about $20 in parts and an hour to build, and the rest (trashcan, pump, hose and timer; I already had the rack/pots/coco/lights ;)) came to about $75. Less than $100 and now all I have to do is fill the rez weekly and dispose of the waste/runoff. Thanks again! :jump:
 
there is so many people telling differetn methods.. I AM so confused at this point..

question: when you say LOOP your saying a rectangle with no end caps correct?

like a "T" fitiig as the inlet and then four elbows..making a manifold with no end. a circle, hoop , square. not a "C" OR "U" or even a loop with a break in the line just at the end where it returns back to the "T"..Is that correct..


can you take a look at my original idea.. here is a drawing.. would a loop work better... mainfold design.jpg
 

pico

Active member
Veteran
I have not personally tested it, but when I was gathering info for this thread a number of years back, I remember the preferred method was a loop,hoop, square....whatever you want to call it. No end caps.

I use a lot of these and have had great luck with the loop so you should probably go that way.
 
hey pico,funny one of my childhood friends we called that!

anyway i hope your still around.i need to set up a drip system for my perpetual grow.i use 2 4x4 tables with a 1k and 600w for the other.each with 25-40 plants,whatever i choose.i drain to waste as well.its set up to harvest every 30 days,roughly 25grams a plant(handwatering)

my medium is perilite in the i.r.b/hempy bucket method.i run the lucas formula (ie maxibloom at 1ec clone to flower)
with epsom salt instead of cal mag for my RO water.

ive seen these manifolds built before.but am confused how the pvc attached to the hosing and the to the pump?what does each part attach to? just use a normal hose attached to the 1/2in garden hose fitting on my pump,then attached to the pvc with another garden hose adapter?

if so where do i find the garden hose adapter for the manifold and how do i attach it?
sorry man im much better doing things than talking about them and trying to apply it..id rather be safe than sorry...

also one more thing.since i use tables,and my res sits on the floor.will i have to worry about the pump continuing to run after it is turned off by the timer?is this only for a res where the level of water is higher than your manifold and hose correct?

thanks in advance man.

Solo
 

pico

Active member
Veteran
Soloishungry-

There are a few ways to connect your pump to the manifold. Currently I run a 3/4" black flexible hose between the pump and the manifold, using barbed 3/4" fittings on each end. The pump should come with various fittings. Choose one, then find the correct fitting for the manifold too. You will need 2 parts on the manifold, a PVC T Junction that splits your straight pvc pipe off in to a threaded female fitting. Then you screw your barbed fitting in to that.

In this thread I believe I was using standard garden hose to connect the pump and fitting, then I just found the correct adapters for the pump, and for the manifold. There should be pictures on here.

Look for a pond and garden store. Home Depot/Lowes might carry this as well.

http://www.qcsupply.com/130413-pvc-reducing-female-tee-1-1-3-4.html

http://www.opentip.com/product_info.php?ref=8955&products_id=1545656&affiliate_banner_id=1



If the water level in your reservoir is below the dripper sites, then you shouldn't have a siphon problem. You can install an anti siphon valve and not have to worry about this. http://www.amazon.com/Orbit-Sprinkler-Anti-Siphon-Control-51022/dp/B00004S22J
 

hogs

New member
Hey Guys,
Don`t want to Hijack here, But Can one do this with the Res. tanks up high and just use the gravity No Pumps.???

Or any Threads you guys can point me to with regards to this..Getting tired of hand watering....
 

Snagglepuss

even
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Boy i am itching to build one of these .The design looks simple practical and very functional.I only have one question.If my plant numbers reduce,ill have leftover dripping lines.Is their any way to block these off? Aside from replacing a secton of the pipe with no holes,(which is doable).Im getting very tired of watering.....
 

CannaBunkerMan

Enormous Member
Veteran
Slick setup cannabunkerman. Do you find there is a difference in pressure with the straight non looped pipe?

I use the largest ECO-Plus pump, I think it's the 1500 lph model, to power 4 of those manifolds, each with 12 sites. The water pressure equalizes about 10 seconds after the pump comes on. The drip lines closest to the pump will start to flow first, going on down the line. The head (lift) is about 3 feet.
 

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