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How to make a PVC dripper manifold

pico

Active member
Veteran
Good advice IGT. I haven't flooded with a drip system yet, but I did a few years back with ebb and flow. Luckily I had the pond liner on the floor and just shop-vacced up the 30 or so gallons on the ground.
 
W

W.P.

Yep, no glue with my grommets. They are tight with the right drill bit and like richyrich says, use some dish detergent to get them in or it will be a real pain.

Also, this has been mentioned before but be sure to drill the holes BEFORE you glue everything together. If you don't you will get some pvc shavings clogging up your lines.


W.P. - What are your reasons for vinyl? I am not completely opposed to it, but I much prefer PVC because I know I am not going to get a kink. I also think pvc is less likely to move around and shake a drip line out of a pot.

Well this is all subjective: I really like the scalability with vinyl, easier to connect more, remove some. Also since pvc is usually light colored it always has some growth in it, @ the cuts especially! Which you have to take apart to really clean = pita.... then you've got unglued sections of pvc (ok if on a table or in a bubbler but for a open manifold...) Or you got a glued one even more pita.

I noticed much better results (cleaning) with the black vinyl between runs easy to rollit up and throw it in a tub or sink to clean. Yes once you get the correct drill size leaks will be less likely but the vinyl is much more forgiving, and lastly $$$ pvc is cheap but after the elbows , t's, etc I always have more tied up into then with vinyl .
:tiphat:
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
Get the dark gray pvc in the electrical section of your hardware store. It is electrical conduit but it is the same thing. That is what I use.
 

Centrum

In search of Genetics
Veteran
Hey pico, i built this system.
My res empties very quicky!

25 sites, 450gph pump.
5 gallons in like 30 seconds.

If i cut it down to 10 seconds i dont think enough pressure would have built up to ALL the drippers.

Any fix ?
 

pico

Active member
Veteran
you could try and toss some regulated drippers on the end of your open lines to slow things down a bit.

How much are you trying to water? What size pots, what medium?
 

Centrum

In search of Genetics
Veteran
At the moment 1 gallon pots with in coco. ( 3 gallon was too much , 1 gallon might not be enough , so probably going to switch to 2 gallon)

25 per table.

I use to hand water about 300 or 400 milliliters a day.
I think thats what it was.



I will check out the drippers at lowes and try to find the right size.

Thanks pico
 

grapeman

Active member
Veteran
Having installed hundreds of acres of drip, I offer a suggestion. Grommets tapped into a lateral line is not the most secure way of attaching a drip tube. A simple work around would be to install a 10 or 15psi pressure regulator just downstream of your filter (plastic would do and it would cost maybe $15). this will help prevent pressure fluctuations that are sure to occur and dramatically cut down on the chances of one of your tubes popping out and causing a problem.

My 2 cents.
 

pico

Active member
Veteran
Grapeman - I didn't even think to look for pressure regulators for the main line. Good tip, I will have to go find some of them.

How do you normally tap in to the line?
 

grapeman

Active member
Veteran
Grapeman - I didn't even think to look for pressure regulators for the main line. Good tip, I will have to go find some of them.

How do you normally tap in to the line?

In the field, we just tap into the tubing with a tool and insert the barbed emitter or fitting for the feed tube. We use emitters that are pressure compensating so each plant get exactly the same amount of water every minute/hour/day. Every block has it's own pressure regulator for even flow.

But this is a field application and we have irrigators fixing leaks all day every day due to coyotes and failures.

In a grow room, there is no room for error such as this, as a leak inside could be devastating and cost lots of money to repair. So, if were me, I would use a fixed coupling that was threaded to better prevent leaks.

I suggest you try to find an ag irrigation supply in your area. They have the parts you need to build a bullet proof setup (by far a better selection then the local Lowes or Home Depot) and their products are designed for farmers who expect better and more even water distribution, and better constructed parts and components. You will find parts and supplies that you've never seen before because the big box stores only carry junk. The cost is less also.
 
I built a drip system using PVC with risers and bubblers/manifolds.

PVC forms a square, 4 risers with 9 outlet bubblers, total 36. Shrubbler emmitter shower stakes don't "shower" without tap pressure so I removed the caps for basically open ended lines to each plant. after a little dialing in It works very well. This is a no runoff room, so it's almost impossible to dial perfectly, but it does make life easier.

My new room has drainage trays, and I plan on building a similar system and drip-to-runoff.
 

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Jdubman420

New member
Yo Pico!

I just wanted to let you know you inspired me. I'm a big fan of drip/nft hydro and custom built this setup a couple weeks ago. I used Botanicare 42" trays, 5" net pots, 40 Gallon Res, 1/2" Sch40 PVC. I used a Little Giant NK1 210 gallon pump for this 12 site project and it seems to be the perfect match. Thanks for the idea Pico!

Dub
 

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Centrum

In search of Genetics
Veteran
Bought 1/2 Gph drippers, that was a joke.

I installed a 25 PSI regulator and a backflow prevention.

Recycle timer set too 15 seconds, a few seconds to build pressure, and i was able to get 50 ML every 15 seconds.

Now i will just use those numbers to figure out my schedule.

Might be 300ML a day so every 4 hours for 15 seconds = 6 times a day.

I Hope it works out !

Thanks for the how to pico.
 

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