How do I get my wax to crumble?

[Waxmasta Flex]

Sincerely? I sincerely think you're wasting you're time whipping you're extract. :

it doesnt do anything but fluff your shit up like a rooster

yea, those totally make me feel like you respect someone elses approach...
and yes..right again..i already said you struck a nerve... misinfo police here..

...im sorry, again, its not "personal"
thats great i like you too...
i simply gave my experience

you came on here saying scientific minds dont extol the virtues of whipping?
the dude asked how to make crumble...lol..i was telling him.

this isnt the which do i like better thread...this is the make my shit crumble thread.
not sure how much more simple to put it...

yes ive had both tested and theres no visible difference except in the material used, aaa ins making the strongest..

i dont know what u mean i contradict myself...
lol you start with "all the testing research ive done shows....." and end with that is my opinion?? well was it your findings or not? i dont get it...

i didnt say anything ugly to YOU...come on..if ur an adult act like it..dont try n back step.. you made a blanket statement...i corrected you..you didnt like it and typed a bunch of fluff..

the sweet spot u speak of is just using good shit to make ur cons....
i dont think the amount of time in vac if not being burned is really gonna effect quality..

anyways..
carry on
thanks


really tho....he asked how to make his shit crumble...thats it..

 

[SpaceshipNelson]

really tho....he asked how to make his shit crumble...thats it..

Wax, I apologize! (sincerely not sarcastically)

I agree with the VAST majority of what you've said and what you bring to the forum (you must admit, your response came off a tad harsh)

All I was/am trying to say, (and I would gladly partake of anyone's concentrate that took the level of care and attention you do, seriously) is that 99% NINETY NINE PERCENT! of what clubs are holding, and most people have access to, is wax or budder that could have been (COULD HAVE BEEN) treated with the care and love that you treat your extractions. Again, I'm sorry. I didn't come here to fight with anyone, even if we disagree about the subtleties of terpine volatility under vacuum. Please agree to disagree, and leave it at that. . .

 

[Greengirls420]

Question for waxmasta

Question for waxmasta

sorry g i know ur the big sapfan and cheerleading for dudes misinfo post, but thats simply not the case...

if you have PROPERLY made wax vs sap, EVERY SINGLE TIME I would say the wax tastes better AND is more smooth...its apparent to me that you either cant or dont make the "step" to waxing your product properly...

weve tested it time and time again with multiple testers (kinda like gw does) and EVERYBODY liked the taste of the dried wax better..period

if its not smoother and tasting better, your not doin it right...

i really kinda makes sense in theory to me...
when you make "wax" all your really doing is DRYING out your sap..
thats it people...theres no magical technique thats gonna make wax chunks fall out ur tube...lol
maybe some stuff "budders" up more but i suspect its strain specific based on terpenes,wax,lipid,sugar,starch etc content of that particular strain...and also how much you break it up...age is also a major factor in consistency..
when you have an oil, and you smoke it generally its a lil harsher because YOUR SMOKING OIL...when you dry it out, its less oily..lol
it melts easier with less fluid to pop...
yea yea you can say whatever about butane and honeycomb etc...
to the op, id submit that many people dont make crumbly wax or honeycomb, cuz theyre not totally sure how....
ALL YOU NEED TO DO REALLY IS DRY YOUR SHIT OUT N SCRAPE IT UP

what do you think all these other people on line are doing with heating pads and lamp shades....
PROVIDING HEAT IN VARYING TEMPS TO DRY YOUR OIL OUT
once its at the dryness you like, scrape it up...(fuck scraping, teflon bags for the win)

im serious here...if you have NOT tried the bag method and you make wax regularly, (esp you other volume gangsters out there)
USE THE BAG TECH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ITS SOOOOOOOO MUCH FUCKING EASIER, I PROMISE YOU WILL BE SUPER STOKED...THEYRE LIKE `10 BUCKS...I USE THE GALLON PAIL LINERS...
SIMPLY BLAST INTO BAG, PUT BAG IN HOT WATER INITIAL PURGE THEN THROW IN FREEZER TIL FROZE, REMOVE CRUSH IN BAG AND POUR INTO YOUR DISH FOR VACING IF U WANNA, OR WHATEVER ELSE YOU WANNA DO W IT....

i did this a few times then switched to blasting into parchment (also infinitely easier than scraping) now im going back to bags...its a no brainer...once you try it youll be like WTF?????
when i do the initial liquid tane purge, if its on a heating element in a glass bow lined w paper it takes 15-25 min for initial liquid gas to be gone, with the bag tech it literally takes like 5 min...i think its cuz the hot water is able to envelop the baggie and its thinner so the heat transfers wayyyy faster than through glass....

fluorocarbon welch outta nh...handle it, youll relish the day you made the switch....

TEFLON NYA!-FTW

I'm going to try your method. What are these bags called exactly?

 

[DinosaurCocks]

oil should never crumble

the best oil is the consistency of a jolly rancher, hard, but with a tiny bit of flex to it, and fairly clear...

the reason bho can look opaque or milkyish is that it is contaminated with water and or vegtable oil... i always make my oil over a near boiling pan of water, the heat seems to keep the moisture out of my oil, then i throw it in the oven at 200 degrees for 15 minutes to further purge the moisture, after that, it will never ever turn into crumbly wax, no matter how much you whip it.

the oven wont get vegetable oils out though, only winterizing will as far as i know, you can tell if there is oil in your hash oil if the surface is not clear and shiny, bho with vegi oil in it has a dull matte finish, not shiny. i get lots more vegi oil when i run fan leaves, stems, and very premature buds...

my good friend doesn't use hot water to evaporate the butane and his stuff is always crumbly and waxy, and crackles like crazy when he puts it on his titanium nail...the butane takes 10 times longer to evaporate without hot water underneath, and the pan frosts over, because the cold butane is attracting condensation to both the plate and the fluid within, where it freezes to the sides of the pan and contaminates the butane, and causes the oil to turn into budder, and subsequently decay faster due to the water.

budder is not a good thing, but ten to fifteen minutes in an oven at 200 is more than enough to get rid of all moisture, and to keep most of the moisture from getting into your oil in the first place always have a plate of hot water or hot oil under your pirex dish when blasting...my preferred method is to run my coffee maker without grounds, so it just heats up a pot of plain water, then i can pour it into the pan from the insulated pot, when i am ready for it instead of leaving a pan boiling on the stove till im ready

 

[Waxmasta Flex]

I beg to disagree, I have since studied extensively on the subject....the reason a particular batch of oil will get hard and crubly or not is dependent on two things...1) The strain, some are just too oily to ever turn concrete. and 2) the physical state of the material being blasted. if the material is old, cured, or decarb'd then it is an oleo resin and will never get hard...hence the saps you see around...if it is fresh material and in a concrete state, with proper handeling and technique (if it gets to hot during the purge itll decarb and turn to an oleo resin...and for the clarity...thats air buddy....every batch i make comes out of the vac from being purges transparent...then i whip air into it and bake at 100 and it turns to a concrete....far tastier and just as clean as the winterized shatter made with the same material.

thank you!! see people it ISSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS possible..i know its really hard for some of yall to wrap your brains around, but you can whip clean shit into a "waxy" product w the right temps etc...no prob.

so NO all WAX or BUDDER or shit thats not shatter isnt tainted or bad..if you got it from an idiot, it prob is....just dont get your wax from morons n you should b mustard.

keep lettin mofos know dub

on a side note, so ur liking the 100 degree for the bake off? ive been messing with diff temps..dropping temps..keepin em same diff pressures etc...
def agree tho, some shit just wont harden or dry...i sTILL think most the time its cuz its been decarbed somehow...but ur right ive had some chems n stuff like that that will make fireeeeee yellow sap but dont seem to wanna harden...w time and an open air cure, they sometimes will sugar up after a min, but dont seem to "bake" dry like most other strains...
crazy..
i fuckin love it..lol
too bad ur in michoacan, id say lets have A sesh!
ciao

 

[nakadashi]

but you can whip clean shit into a "waxy" product w the right temps etc...no prob.

This is exactly what I have been trying to do. I keep making shatter but the market demands wax/crumble. I have tried so many things to no avail. The only time I was able to make wax was when I accidentally introduced some water into a slab of shatter when I was moving it from collection vessel to parchment paper. It waxed up in certain spots but the rest of the batch stayed a shatter.

Based on the info in this forum, I have tried overnight vac at 29"hg and 130F, didn't work. I tried heat only, then vac the next day, didn't work. I tried heat only no vac, it *looked* like wax but was gooey to the touch. Now I am playing around with heating and whipping shatter, and then placing it 29"hg vac as it cools. I don't think this will really be true wax though, just a puffed up shatter lol.

 

[mr. durden]

I think there is a market for waxes, shatter, whipped, crumble, etc.

shatter is going to always be the bar for a good oil maker. but customers sometimes prefer other forms due to smell, ease of handling, etc.

if you are trying to make shatter and it starts waxing, something went wrong either in the purging or finishing process. water is usually the biggest culprit. we do sometimes turn shatter into crumble just for variety. it is easiest to do in a vac oven. basically you are just drying it out. figure around 115 degrees and vac the shit out of it. it takes days... literally. we have an oven dedicated to it cause it takes so long. in my opinion, without an oven, it is a hassle.

i personally haven't whipped, so i don't know how it goes, but it seems like it would be fun to do just for variety.

Nakadashi, aren't you using a IIIa? if so, let some water drop into the butane before you pour it out and it'll help the process.

 

[nakadashi]

I think there is a market for waxes, shatter, whipped, crumble, etc.

shatter is going to always be the bar for a good oil maker. but customers sometimes prefer other forms due to smell, ease of handling, etc.

if you are trying to make shatter and it starts waxing, something went wrong either in the purging or finishing process. water is usually the biggest culprit. we do sometimes turn shatter into crumble just for variety. it is easiest to do in a vac oven. basically you are just drying it out. figure around 115 degrees and vac the shit out of it. it takes days... literally. we have an oven dedicated to it cause it takes so long. in my opinion, without an oven, it is a hassle.

i personally haven't whipped, so i don't know how it goes, but it seems like it would be fun to do just for variety.

Nakadashi, aren't you using a IIIa? if so, let some water drop into the butane before you pour it out and it'll help the process.

I had a feeling that the waxing up was due to water but was afraid to ruin more oil, potentially beyond recovery, trying to make it... Might try pouring off the butane and then mixing in a little bit of water. oh man, its gonna feel so wrong doing that..

Does anybody know whether or not running the vac pump the entire time makes a difference? Usually I just get it to -29"hg and shut it off, but I know some people leave it on...

 

[Gray Wolf]

We've been experimenting with different ways to make wax and have had success coming from a couple different directions, but never precisely repeatable or predictable from a "when" standpoint.

It appears to change with strain, age, water content, humidity, technique, and phase of the moon, but has been easier for me to achieve with un-winterized oil from younger material, on humid days.

The theory that I've heard, making the most sense to me, is that when the waxes and oils wax, they are forming hydrates.

One technique that works for me, is to purge in a thin film at 115F and -29.5" Hg, and when when the solvent bubbles cease, cool it down, roll it up, flatten it out into a patty, and start cooking it at 100F, slowly raising the temperature in 10F increments, as the patty stabilizes, to a maximum of around 130F until it waxes.

Another Joe found, is to purge in a thin film at 115F and -29.5" Hg, and when when the solvent bubbles cease, whip air (humidity) into it, and stick it in a 140/150F oven. Start pulling a vacuum and when it starts to bubble, shut off the vacuum valve until it stops, and then open the valve again, slowly incrementing down the vacuum levels, instead of incrementing up the heat.

 

[Gray Wolf]

Oops, missed this picture

 

[OrganicBuds]

Gray Wolf, have you ever added the waxes from winterizing fresh material, to old material that wont wax up? Seems like it should work.

 

[Gray Wolf]

Gray Wolf, have you ever added the waxes from winterizing fresh material, to old material that wont wax up? Seems like it should work.

No I haven't, but the old material has plant waxes, just less moisture.

 

[young_mind]

alternatives

alternatives

hey buddy iv been doing a few runs with a local strain and have been getting it to wax up in under about 20 mins after i sprayed into my dish on a relative high temp of water under the dish....id say shy of boiling point. i do agree that wax consistency is not what im looking for...would like to achieve this clear shatter. as all the wax dried consitencies ive reach on other term have not past the flame test they seem to buble and sizzle firework homie its bad!! would like to know some of my option to purge this state of wax

 

[young_mind]

Crumbly wax is terrible and harsh after a hit off the nail. You do not want wax / budder and need to aim for clear sap / shatter as mentioned before. Honeycomb is just a gimmick do not fall into it. Basically all club wax is not worth the money until sap / shatter take over as it should. It is just harder to make good sap / shatter than to blast scrape and single vac into honeycomb without properly purging the oil. It is about getting the product out fast and making money for them and honeycomb is perfect for that.

hey buddy iv gotten all my stuff waxing up in about 20 mins after the run....i have the dish sit in water about shy of boiling point....this wax doesnt pass the flame test fireworks what are so options to either go back a step...iv ordered a vacum so i can purge...but does the purge work when the consistency is solid? kinda lost...

 

[Gray Wolf]

hey buddy iv been doing a few runs with a local strain and have been getting it to wax up in under about 20 mins after i sprayed into my dish on a relative high temp of water under the dish....id say shy of boiling point. i do agree that wax consistency is not what im looking for...would like to achieve this clear shatter. as all the wax dried consitencies ive reach on other term have not past the flame test they seem to buble and sizzle firework homie its bad!! would like to know some of my option to purge this state of wax

If you will heat that wax to 115F under -29.5" Hg, the rest of the solvent and water vapor will come off, and you should end up with a shatter.

Dissolve it in 10:1 190proof ethanol, freeze for 48 hours, filter, and evaporate off the alcohol to get a bell clear Absolute shatter.

 

[midwestHIGHS]

To avoid this you need an inline shut off valve between your pump and chamber. So when you turn your pump of the negative pressure in the chamber doesn't pull mineral oil out of your pump and splat onto your oil.

My tips for salvaging mineral oil tainted bho is the same as salvaging moldy material by making it into an absolute, throw it all away. Start over.

Yuk mineral oil is terrible for our lungs what ever you do don't vaporize/smoke/or sell/give this batch to others.

 

[Superfly3472]

is this guy full of it or what?

"i blew directly into 170 degree water, let it cool down, collected and gave it a lazy whip or two while getting stoned"

here is his product

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=36868&pictureid=930483&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

Hey bro Been hearing good things about this crumble could you throw on some stats like how much water how much Bud all the notables Thanks

 

[weedaholic721]

Dont mean to be that guy but:

First read this whole thread..its years old but contains great info..and read all you can in the stickys of this subforum and use the search bar up top

 

[flashlight]

honeycomb

honeycomb

would consider not open blasting at all, in my opinion. Far too dangerous and lots of undesirables. Safety first

 

[concentratenoob]

ok so i read this whole thread cuz i had a cuiosity about wax. heres is what happened to me, i did a blast using quality trim i grew myself. scraped it up after the hot water bath , and ended up with a gooey mess that i put into a little silicone container. i mean only about an inch around with an airtight lid . i left the lid on for 2 days while i kept goofing with it knowing it still had butane in it. then i took the lid off and let it sit out for another couple days and , wala it had turned to a crumble type of stuff not as sticky, smokes rather smooth no cough and has a good flavor. idk wtf but i like it. and no i cant spell worth a sh@t sometimes.