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House & Garden.....lets chat!!!

GanjaPharma

Member
best product they make is roots accelerator, that shit works like nothing i have tried. shooting powder is outright garbage (tested it side by side 3 other flower finish products it wasnt even close to the other two) cant say either way about their nutes, never tried em have heard mixed reviews. my biggest issue w them is that if your hydro guy wants to sell ANY of their products, they have to carry the whole line. hard for me to shed a tear for the hydro shop guy tho.
 

MaynardG_Krebs

Active member
Veteran
best product they make is roots accelerator, that shit works like nothing i have tried. shooting powder is outright garbage (tested it side by side 3 other flower finish products it wasnt even close to the other two) my biggest issue w them is that if your hydro guy wants to sell ANY of their products, they have to carry the whole line. hard for me to shed a tear for the hydro shop guy tho.

I think that's pretty normal tho about carrying a whole line or nothing at all. I did want to ask you tho, what were the other 2 flower enhancer products that you tested and preferred? I've been running the whole H&G line but have not gotten to the 'shooting powder' step in the schedule. Nor have I gotten to BudXL and Top Booster. I have been pretty impressed with the results of their regimen of products and have been running it at their 'aggressive' schedule. Plants are sucking it right up and look perfect and are very vigorous in growth. TIA regarding the flower boosters.

mgk :tiphat:
 
I'm also interested to hear about better finishers than Shooting Powder.

I have used FF cha-ching in soil with good results. I have used Kool-bloom powder in hydroton with good results; as well as just using Pure Flowers/DM Gold with no finisher with almost better results than with the Kool-Bloom.

I have been using H&G for a few runs now since switching to coco, but have yet to run the shooting powder for real. It wouldn't hurt my feelings to just use what has always worked and skip the expensive packets of powder.

H
 

Balazar

Member
I have used H&G for a few crops now (RDWC with Aquaflakes). Here is what I can tell you:

1. I use RO and some times I add a little CaMg+ but never more than half strength

2. Silica blast is perfect for raising the ph to the desired level.

3. Root Excel is compost tea with molasses and humic acid. It works good but you could make your own for less than $10.

4. Shooting powder is strong! go about 200 ppm's under what you want and then add the shooting powder. (which is the same thing as M.O.A.B.)

5. Don't over feed! its just a waist of money. Especially if your using drip clean.

6. Magic Green smells like an infected dirty vagina but it's like green paint! If you have a nute lockout this can save your ass.

7. I flush with strait up RO that has been ph adjusted. I check the ppm's a few times a day. They will go up and then level off. When the ppm's level off I change the water and repeat until they are ready for harvest.

8. I used to change the res every other week. Now I just do every 4 weeks. I have a float valve in the res and I just add nutes to adjust the solution as water is added.

9. It's ok to use an air stone in the res and/or buckets. There is a typo on some older nute schedules and products that states the use of an air stone will fuck things up. I called H&G and this is simply not the case.

10. H&G is better than AN in my opinion. I get the same results for a little lower price. I do use molasses and silica blast but other than that just the complete H&G line.

Currently I am trying to go 100% organic in my RDWC so H&G will get used up in one system while I start a new organic nute system in another RDWC for side by side comparison.
 
W

W.P.

I have used H&G for a few crops now (RDWC with Aquaflakes). Here is what I can tell you:

1. I use RO and some times I add a little CaMg+ but never more than half strength

2. Silica blast is perfect for raising the ph to the desired level.

3. Root Excel is compost tea with molasses and humic acid. It works good but you could make your own for less than $10.

4. Shooting powder is strong! go about 200 ppm's under what you want and then add the shooting powder. (which is the same thing as M.O.A.B.)

5. Don't over feed! its just a waist of money. Especially if your using drip clean.

6. Magic Green smells like an infected dirty vagina but it's like green paint! If you have a nute lockout this can save your ass.

7. I flush with strait up RO that has been ph adjusted. I check the ppm's a few times a day. They will go up and then level off. When the ppm's level off I change the water and repeat until they are ready for harvest.

8. I used to change the res every other week. Now I just do every 4 weeks. I have a float valve in the res and I just add nutes to adjust the solution as water is added.

9. It's ok to use an air stone in the res and/or buckets. There is a typo on some older nute schedules and products that states the use of an air stone will fuck things up. I called H&G and this is simply not the case.

10. H&G is better than AN in my opinion. I get the same results for a little lower price. I do use molasses and silica blast but other than that just the complete H&G line.

Currently I am trying to go 100% organic in my RDWC so H&G will get used up in one system while I start a new organic nute system in another RDWC for side by side comparison.



I run a feed very similar too yours. Quick question . When do you stop giving Silica blast? Or just use it as ph up? Heard it will cause 'fallout' if added after nutes( what i used to do )...... But am seeing some white 'fallout?' , after I add my Advanced nute ph up any way.??? Which has really been bothering me. it goes away in a few seconds BUT....! And I talked to the rep in cali. and he told me that regular (was giving it 3mill a gall every feed )silica would lock out other nutes. (you input)

And one more when you say half dose cal/mag you mean 2.5 mill a gallon? How often? Now i give them 5 mill per gall w/ every feed.

Just converting from years of hydro + soil less to coco getting everything dialed in with these H&G nutes and I got SLIGHT deficiencies, so trying to iron them out. Ps Im really finicky about ANY signs of nute problems.
 

Balazar

Member
I run a feed very similar too yours. Quick question . When do you stop giving Silica blast? Or just use it as ph up? Heard it will cause 'fallout' if added after nutes( what i used to do )...... But am seeing some white 'fallout?' , after I add my Advanced nute ph up any way.??? Which has really been bothering me. it goes away in a few seconds BUT....! And I talked to the rep in cali. and he told me that regular (was giving it 3mill a gall every feed )silica would lock out other nutes. (you input)

And one more when you say half dose cal/mag you mean 2.5 mill a gallon? How often? Now i give them 5 mill per gall w/ every feed.

Just converting from years of hydro + soil less to coco getting everything dialed in with these H&G nutes and I got SLIGHT deficiencies, so trying to iron them out. Ps Im really finicky about ANY signs of nute problems.

I only use silica blast when changing the res, and I go about 20% of what it recommends. I used to use it as a ph adjuster and yeah you do get the "fallout" if you over do it. The H&G base nutes all have silica in them so this is just extra to make the stems stronger. If you get fallout it will float to the top and you can skim it out, however if there is a lot of it you will be guessing what your NPK ratio is. If you get it really bad you have to change the res. You could also just do a scrog net or stakes to keep your plants standing up if they are bending under their own weight.

As for CaMg+ I have RO water and some times I get micro deficiencies so I do it as a preventative measure. (2.5 mL per Gal once a week) even though H&G says aquaflakes is made for RO. If you are using tap water or well water this is completely unnecessary. I would just leave it out.

One more thing. When you get into flowering I think it's top booster that extracts sugars from the leaves and diverts them to the buds. When you use that you will get a bunch of yellowing fan leaves. Don't worrie, just pull them off the buds and the rest of the plant will start to EXPLODE!
 

Balazar

Member
Also on the AN ph adjuster; if it is just crystallizing in the res switch to a simple cheap one. I use the cheapest liquid ph adjuster I can find. GH works. H&G have their own ph adjuster in Europe but for some reason they don't export it here. There are two ph-up products one for veg and the other for flower + a single down. I am not sure but I think the veg one has silica in it and the flower one has none. They also have an inoculation powder that is the same thing as Great White that they don't export to the USA.

The schedule specifically says put RO water in the res, then add the nutes (A&B) because they will bring the ph down. Then you ph adjust and let it stabilize. Then you add you additives. After this the ph will go crazy, don't touch it. If you fuck up the order you can get that "fall out" or if you mix the nutes directly together.
 

vancouverisland

New member
Hi, I am growing in soil, or soilless not sure what its classified as but its dirt anywayswith the perlite in it from the grow store. with 3 part micro grow bloom, just entered flower about 5 days ago. The base 3 part is holland secret, because i got it as a sample, just about out of it, so going to buy H&G soil A/B. Flowering I have bud blood powder , one more feed with it, big bud powder, and carb load powder, also i have cool bloom which the guy's chart from grow store said bud blood first week, big bud weeks 2 3 and 4, and kool bloom last couple weeks. I am wondering if I should use kool bloom or big bud for weeks 5 & 6. My main question i do I want to raise my tap water ph to 8.5, then add bases and then nutes, or do I want to add base, then ph it and add nutes after, again i am using AN for nutes in powder for and I don't know If i should ph water higher, its around 6.5 before adding anything, but goes down to about 4.5ish after its all added. I have been adding it all then phing but I thi nk it uses alot more ph up. Also do I want to flush for week 7 and 8 with just water, or is one week enough. Hope for some good answers mainly for the ph and flush sorry if i made this too chicken scratchy, this is my first op. I wanna get it right and nit lock out anything, but they are healthy and growing fast.
 

vancouverisland

New member
krunchbubble, I have used your stadium idea dn its looking great, I did it abit differwent because i didn't have a door between where i could put planks on each side, so i did a four side stadium with a gap where i made my zipper door. I have 3 levels and 2 gallon bags, I topped most of them so now they're going too big. I prunes off lower spindly branches right before i started flower, its day 5 now I was wondering about pruning off the newasest lowrer branches, should i wait first. also do i want to ph my water a couple higher, like 8.5 if my water is 6.5 since it goes down to 4.5ish after nutes and is a huge slow process raising ph after its all added, or add base nutes and ph then add additives. I have holland secrest 3 part for base,it was a sample, gonna buy H&G soon soil a/b because i'm almost out of sample. and i'M using AN big bud for weeks 2,3,4 and bud blood for week1 and carb load all weeks of flower, grow guys chart showed how i am following and it said use kool bloom for weeks 5,6,7 instead of big bud, does tis make sense? I just bought multi zen form H&G because i ran out of grozyme and I kinda got talked into trying it and it useshalf the amount, lso I have been intriqued by H&G since I have heard about them? Cheers
 

Balazar

Member
H&G is always mixed in this order:
1. get some water (RO is best but at lease get the chlorine out)
2. mix in Part A or your base nute and wait for it to mix evenly
3. mix in Part B of your base nute and wait for it to mix once again
4. ph your solution (it will probably have to go up)
5. add all additives
6. dont fuck with it.
 

vancouverisland

New member
what if i'm using AN additives do I still ph after bases are added and then add additives and leave it, I wonder because i don't know and I alwas hear that AN is trickier and when used carelessly is very bad? not sure hot it is with thier stuff, I noticed krunchbubble uses H&G and AN additives so wondering what you do? and yeah sorry for joining the post for this question but AN additives and house and garden have both been talked about on here. Also where does pure flowers fall under with my feed regime, if i bought it when do i use it, after bud blood? Cheers,
 
Thread-nazi!

mgk ;)


:tiphat: LOL. You know, us anal ass growers like everything just so-so. Organization is the key. NO SOUP FOR YOU! :tongue:



If you are adding AN additives to the H&G sched, I would just say make sure you double check yer pH and PPMs and watch yer plants.....they will ultimately tell you everything they think.......they are women ya know. LOL
 

Balazar

Member
what if i'm using AN additives do I still ph after bases are added and then add additives and leave it, I wonder because i don't know and I alwas hear that AN is trickier and when used carelessly is very bad? not sure hot it is with thier stuff, I noticed krunchbubble uses H&G and AN additives so wondering what you do? and yeah sorry for joining the post for this question but AN additives and house and garden have both been talked about on here. Also where does pure flowers fall under with my feed regime, if i bought it when do i use it, after bud blood? Cheers,

I have not used many AN additives before but I have mixed H&G base with other stuff. I use their feed schedule pretty much to a "T". I have changed out:
organic humic acid for multi zyme
liquid kelp+fish hydroslate for algen extract
various compost/manure teas w/molasses for roots excellurator
M.O.A.B. powder packets for shooting powder

As far as the mixing order goes, things that effect the ph that are fairly stable go first. So lets say the ph of the RO water your starting with is 7. When you mix the nutes in to an ec of 1.2 the ph goes down to 3.4 If you keep topping off the nutes every day to keep the ec at 1.2 the ph will stay at 3.4 Now if you add micro-organisms and sugars to feed them the ph will go up for a while until their food runs out and they die. Then the ph lowers again. So things that have a permanent effect on the solution like liquid silica can be added before using ph adjuster solution and things that make ph fluctuate should go after. The adjuster is a "buffer" that adds more acid/base to the solution to make it what you want it at. when you add the additives that make it the ph fluctuate it will always tend to come back towards what it was that you adjusted it to.

What is the additive that you are wanting to know the mixing order of?
 

MaynardG_Krebs

Active member
Veteran
:tiphat: LOL. You know, us anal ass growers like everything just so-so. Organization is the key. NO SOUP FOR YOU! :tongue:



If you are adding AN additives to the H&G sched, I would just say make sure you double check yer pH and PPMs and watch yer plants.....they will ultimately tell you everything they think.......they are women ya know. LOL

Damn.. I heard you make good soup too..

mgk :shucks:
 

vancouverisland

New member
I am using holland secret 3 part micro, grow, bloom that i got as a sample. H&G multi zen(zyme) & I have bud blood, big bud, carb load all in powder form, should I mix 3 part & multi zen then ph adjust, then add carb load & bud blood, will be carb load and big bud for the following water but same difference i assume for this. Or should I adjust ph to 8.5 in my water then add all the nutes after. Or adjust after its all in? I am using tap water here in bc, and just filling a resivior letting it sit for 24hrs and I use all the water in one feeding.
 
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