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Hotrilux EYE Blue Metal Halide *OR* Hortilux EYE Super HPS for flower?

masterlow37

Active member
Veteran
2-Part Question

2-Part Question

:smoke: so if you had to use 1 bulb from young seedlings to harvest, would you use a 5500-6000k blue or the EYE hps hortilux ?... :confused: ... Also if using 2 HID's for flowering: would you use (1 EYE HPS & 1 EYE Blue) or (2 EYE HPS hortilux) ?
 

hogwild

Member
i use a 400watt blue series and its the shit for veg, i have not used it for flower yet so i cant compare it to the sunmaster series bulbs or the HPS bulbs. I would definately say go HPS for flower though if your considering either or
 
G

Guest

sensirocker said:
damn clowntown that graph you showed is pretty cool, and it seems like the MH is amazing on the color spectrum... i wish we could hear from someone that has actually used this?


Here is a small report from a member who tested the Blue

steel savage said:
I've completed testing on tha "Blue" . My experiences are as follows

Pros:
Excellent veg lamp . Gets 'em goin good an' strong .

Cons : Appears to prolong flowering time . An 8 week strain MAY take 9 .
Lumen output as well as bulb life are at a substantial loss comparatively speaking .


My preference is tha Sodium candles .

Hope this helps :D
guerilla
 

cadillachydro

Active member
Yes, I have the Hortilux Blue MH... That bulb is partially where my nic came from... The price is hefty, but it is the Cadillac of bulbs. Its one bad dude. Awesome spectrum, causes quite a bit of stretch during flower but the buds were the most robust of any of my grows. Due to problems with Future-Brite digital ballasts I now only fire HPS.

Be careful buying this bulb. If you run a digital ballast you need to contact the manufacturer and see if their ballast will burn it. It takes some juice to run it and most digitals wont fire them. They work best with mag n' coil ballasts. Old school muscle so to speak.

I bought a digital 1K Future-Brite that i wouldnt piss on to put it out if it caught on fire. Had more problems with this POS than i want to tell you. Ive been through two of them and they still wont fire the Hortilux Blue.

Do your research, the blues are the shit, but please, dont buy a future brite ballast... customer service is as whack as their claims, their ballasts DO NOT fire both MH and HPS, not properly anyway... trust me, Ive had two now and would take my money back if they'd keep to their word, but they haven't.
 
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cadillachydro

Active member
No, I'm not saying that... Im using a cheaper, slightly used Eiko HPS, and i know for sure it isn't putting out the same lumens as the BLUE. The Hortilux was so intensely bright, I honestly wore sunglasses in the room.

But as far as saying that MH is better than HPS for flower. No. Its been proven HPS is a better flower producer, with its red spectrum imitating that of the sun late season.

However, you can see the BLUES spectrum in the charts above. And it definitely has a red spectrum as well... But I still think the large amount of blue spectrum still causes the stretch.

When i flowered with it, the buds were large, almost over sized. I'm not gonna say they were fluffy by any means, they still had some weight to them,but also weren't as dense as HPS flowered buds.

These results wouldnt be the same for all strains, just telling you about this one.
 

Andyo

Active member
Veteran
lu1000mh/htl/en

lu1000mh/htl/en

any guys tried the new eye hortilux super blue.
mh and son in one lamp
geuss you could run son and mh in one big reflector
 

guineapig

Active member
Veteran
I've seen that new hortilux 2-in-one bulb, andyo, but haven't tried it yet.....looks very interesting, though....

Back to the topic at hand, i agree with mrwags that 1000 hort MH blue for veg and then using the 1000 watt super HPS for flowering is the best situation.....the blue vegging will keep the internodes nice and tight and then after the 12/12 flip the plants will love the lumen boost from the 1000 watt HPS.....

If you look at total overall lumens (disregarding the spectral graphs for just a sec), you should find that the 1000 MH only produces 100,000 lumens, compared to the 1000 HPS which produced 140,000 lumens....that is a big-time difference, and explains why most people prefer HPS over MH, especially for flowering where the HPS spectrum is more appropriate.....

This being said, however, you cannot deny the awesome color spectrum graph that these new "Ceramic MH" bulbs produce.....it is really amazing how much better the spectrum is that these new MH bulbs put out.....

Hope this clears up the issue a bit, i know that this topic of bulb analysis is one of the most difficult ones to explain in this hobby of ours.....

You have to consider lumens, spectral graphs, PAR (photosynthetically active radiation) watts, the overall light pattern produced by your reflector, etc.....

A lot of people don't fully understand just how much a bad reflector design can ruin a grow by creating "hot-spots" which burn plants, and by concentrating the light all in the center right under the bulb itself......but that is another topic!!!

Personally, I'd like to see a test between a MH 1000 blue and a super-HPS 600 watt bulb......these bulbs put out similar amounts of lumens, despite the difference in wattages.....

:ying: kind regards from a guineapig :ying:
 

gladysvjubb

Active member
Veteran
How about this?!?!?!

How about this?!?!?!

G90-38W 2,100 LUMENS PURE White CREE XLAMP XR-E Equivalent LED Light Bulb

85-265V E39/E40 Mogul Base Brightest Globe/Ball Replaces 400W



You are ordering on one(1) or multiple of high brightness PURE White LED light bulb with 2,100 lumens. This high-tech Street ball lamp is the brightest Globe type LED light bulb. It is a standard Edison E39/E40 screw base light bulb for flood light with CREE Equivalent LED that can fit your existing light fixture. Built it with the Multiple High brightness LEDs COB(Chip on Board)white lamp makes is close to a 400-watt incandescent bulb. The 160 degrees beam angle make this bulb suitable for replacements of American Home Street Lamp with Mogul based incandescent light bulbs.



This bulb can be used for indoor and outdoor enviroments. If you do not specify in bid we will automatically ship One Pure White Bulb.



The bulb socket in the center(G90) is a mogul-base, meaning it has a larger diameter than a regular light socket (medium Edison-base), and is typically made of cast porcelain for the higher temperatures. Mogul-base lamps are available for industrial use in larger wattages (250-1000) and in halogen, high-pressure sodium and metal halide and now in LED light bulb configurations.




This Lamp provides

wide dispersion PURE WHITE lights


▼ Low Power Consumption - 38W, much less than the incandescent lamps

▼ High Brightness - 2,100 Lumens

▼ Long Life - Up to 50,000 Hours, adopted the PWM constant current power, protect the LEDs efficiently

▼ Robust Design - shock and vibration resistant

▼ Light Beam - Low heat generated/No UV, adopted the integrative lamp cup & radiator, scatter heat quickly

▼ Easy Installation – Plug and Play grade. Fits standard Edison base socket and replace the traditional Edison light source directly

▼ Save Money - Reduces labor and maintenance costs

Specifications:

Dimension
Luminous Color
Luminous
Power Consumption
Working Voltage
Lamp Shade
Radiator Cup
Lamp Base

Ø80mm
Pure White

(Can be Customized in Warm White,Red, Yellow, Green, Blue, and so on.
2,100lm
38W
85~265VAC

50/60Hz
Acryl
Oxygenation

Aluminum Alloy
E40






PRODUCT INFORMATION

Base
Medium Base E40

Parts Number
G90-C/DW

UPC
TBA

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS

Bulb
G90 (90mm)

LED Counts
42 higher power LEDs

Lamp type
High Power Cool White LED dice

Light Output PURE White
2,100 Lumen(replace 300 watt incandescent)

Viewing Angle Lamps
160 degrees

Installation Class
Plug & Play

Light Bulb Repalcements
Halogen 300W-400W

LED Lamp Brightness
Contact customer service

Body Materials
Die Cast Oxygenation Aluminum Alloy

Front Protection
Plastic cover

Bulb Base
Edison Screwed Base E39/E40

Voltage
85-265 V, 50/60 Hz

Wattage
< 38.0 W

Rated Life
50,000 hours minimum,

(47,000 hours longer than Halogen)

100,000 hours average.

Primary Application
Outdoor Floodlight

PHOTOMETRIC CHARACTERISTICS

Initial Lumen
PURE WHITE 2,100

WARM WHITE 1,360

Color Temperature

G90-CWW

G90-WWW


PURE White 5,000-7,000° (Kelvin)

WARM WHITE 2,800-3,200° (Kelvin)

Center Beam Candlepower (CBCP)
TBA

Nominal Initial Lumens per Watt
PURE WHITE 55.2

WARM WHITE 36

DIMENSIONS

Maximum Overall Length (MOL)
10.83 in (275 mm)

Bulb Diameter (DIA)
3.54 in (90 mm)

Base Diameter
1.58 in (40 mm)

Special Features

Light Dimmable Switches
Not available




LED Solid State Technologies:

Last up to 100,000 hours (or about ten years)
Withstand shocks, vibrations, frequent switching and temperature extremes that rapidly incapacitate fragile incandescent lamps
Reduction of maintenance costs
Decrease of electric costs by up to 90%
Low heat generation
Variety of colors available
Wide range of voltage applications
Features:



· Low heat, no UV or IR light radiation

· Homogeneous and well defined illumination

· Optimized heat sink with the right looks and sleek design

· Achieve light output of 200W halogen lamp yet consume 80% less power

· Works with 85-265 AC lighting systems



Typical Applications:



· Street Flood lighting



 

Barf

Member
shinndragon said:
The most important fact is that the HPS spectrum resembles the sun during Fall.
]


You sure about this? To my knowledge our seasons on earth don't effect the suns' spectrum.
 
G

Guest

gladysvjubb said:
G90-38W 2,100 LUMENS PURE White CREE XLAMP XR-E Equivalent LED Light Bulb


With some wire supplies & basic electrical skills you could make a bad ass low power setup using those bulbs..

:headbange

I went with the GrowBright brand bulbs to save some bucks - works great..
 
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G

Guest

Neptune

It sure looks like you could use one. Kind of skimpy if you ask me.
 

simba

Sleeping Dragon
BOTH THOSE ARE CRAP>> especially for the price.

look at Philips Ceramic metal halide. 20-400 watt..they are marketed to business so allot better price but womps for Growing..
has more red.. etc. .
AND THE PRICE $53. bucks.. and last longer than eye..
http://advancedtechlighting.com/cdmed18.htm
holds its lumen longer than eye.. the list goes. on..
i have been recommending these. .before these companies jumped on them..

oh and lets not forget the Philips puts out less heat than the EYE BLUE.. cuase the eye is MH and the philips CMH
 

Andyo

Active member
Veteran
MT1000D/HOR/HTL-BLUE

MT1000D/HOR/HTL-BLUE

Just organising a case of these lamps from southvalleyhydro.ca
they run on m47 cwa ballast same as agrosun gold ,sylvania metal arc ,sunmaster cool deluxe/warm deluxe/neutral.
Ive decided to go over to the MT1000D/HOR/HTL-BLUE
Ive tested many halides in the last 25yrs even tested lamps like sunmaster 1100w sunmaster gave me a free lamp and ballast to test! a little leggy for sativas.
I would say sylvania metal arc was the best id found and used for 20 years
This new lamp may be better looking at the spectrum theyve converted the yellow light to red by the look of things (clever iwasaki chemistry)
will still be using magnetic m47 ballast as we get brown outs occaisionally
the price is still less than sylvania metalarc was 20 yrs ago
Lets hope fed ex are gentle with the lamps
 
G

Grasso

Hello,

The most important fact is that the HPS spectrum resembles the sun during Fall.
You sure about this? To my knowledge our seasons on earth don't effect the suns' spectrum.

For all those who never left their computer since Mommy put them there I mention that the sun is orange for only ten minutes a day, that is at dawn and dusk.

The higher the temperature of the air the more short-wave radiation is filtered hence the redder the sunlight is. Autumn is warmer than spring so go figure!

BOTH THOSE ARE CRAP>> especially for the price.

look at Philips Ceramic metal halide. 20-400 watt..they are marketed to business so allot better price but womps for Growing..
has more red.. etc. .
AND THE PRICE $53. bucks.. and last longer than eye..

4000 °K is the most natural indeed. But some infra-red could be helpful, too, as plants have sensors for it (according to "Plant Physiology" by Taiz and Zeiger, 1998) and like to be warmed by heat radiation. One human generation ago Bill Drake and other people recommended a mix of 2 parts fluorescents (back then usually around 4700 °K) and 1 part incandescents (2700 °K).

Every subculture circles around a certain fancy toy. For the BSM people it is the nail collar. For the yogi anime lovers it is trading cards showing coloured furs. For cannabis growers it is the HPS bulb. As cheap and simple as masturbation.

Uli
 
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