-
ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!
Hermie after Hermie after Hermie
- Thread starter psychopro
- Start date
Switcher56
Comfortably numb!
I think he might mean TDS...
TDS to EC =(T/1000)*2
(443/1000)*2= 0.886
EC to TDS = (E*1000)/2
(0.886*1000)/2= 443ppm
Either the OP has failed to research most of the subject or he is having difficulty processing information.
IMMHO one should concentrate on what they are doing and only advancing to various other growing methods until, they have their process dialed in.
I learned something today and I thanks this discussion. My flowering tent has been cleaned and dis-infected, waiting to receive my Indica strains. Today, I plan to remedy a conflict... move all my controllers outside the tent.
In fairness to the Internet, I have seen both set ups. Controllers inside and controllers outside but, I have seen more setups with them outside. Therefore, since it can't hurt (and I can do it) I will be placing all my controllers outside as a precaution and added measure of security.
443 ppm TDS = 0.886 EC
MrBungle
Well-known member
Good catch.. its easy to confuse EC and TDS....
I still believe its a light leak, the major contributor to causing plants to hermie
Not to mention for a newb its the easiest to confirm AND fix...
You gotta spend some time in darkness with your eyes closed, like it was said in an earlier post, to get your true night vision. the only difference in my method is, I leave any light that might be on during the dark cycle, outside of the flower room on. So its easier to detect leaks inside the box ... Its also the perfect time to meditate with your girls...
Honestly I think us indoor growers (including myself) should do this more often
I still believe its a light leak, the major contributor to causing plants to hermie
Not to mention for a newb its the easiest to confirm AND fix...
You gotta spend some time in darkness with your eyes closed, like it was said in an earlier post, to get your true night vision. the only difference in my method is, I leave any light that might be on during the dark cycle, outside of the flower room on. So its easier to detect leaks inside the box ... Its also the perfect time to meditate with your girls...
Honestly I think us indoor growers (including myself) should do this more often
Light leaks is the problem. Several pages later and the light leaks have not been fixed. This is the problem, fix it and your plants will stop throwing balls.
You are seriously confused. First you told me your EC was 443, then it was 0.692, now it's 0.443? I think you think you know a lot more than you actually do.
There are multiple PPM scales. If you are using TDS PPM, the scale is .500. TDS PPM to EC is a straightforward calculation, and none of the numbers you provided add up.
Edit- nevermind read OP post below
This has nothing to do with knowledge i just thought my EC meter shows it in ppm TDS.
But checked on the instruction of the EC meter that it is in microsiemens.
Which means 443ms->0.443EC
Sorry for the confusing.
Yes i think so too.
The thing is i changed my tent for my third run because i thought i should just switch the veg and flower tent (standing in the same room)to try if they are also throwing balls in the other tent, which they did.
But i didn't consider that my other tent goes on 5min earlyer which shines his light throw the passive intakes of my actual flower tent. So i got some charcoal filters to block the light of the passive intakes today. Also the other passive intake maybe getting some light in throw the door to the next room.
So after they are finished this time i will go on the light leak hunt.
Really underestimated the problem you can get with light leaks.
And i also think that not PH/EC is my problem because this is now my fourth hermie run. Maybe it was a combination of light leaks and nute burn in run 1-3 but this time it has to be light leaks.
Also i have problems to get the room cooler at lights out. Temp is almost consistent with lights on /off because the days are so hot the last weeks. Is that also a problem i should look into?
Thank all of you for your patience and time. It helped me alot and i hope i get a hermie free run next time.
Switcher56
Comfortably numb!
You forgot to multiply by 2!
TDS to EC =(T/1000)*2
(443/1000)*2= 0.886
EC to TDS = (E*1000)/2
(0.886*1000)/2= 443ppm
Those are the formulas!
I am only on my 1st grow, so take it for what it is worth.
OTOH many folks here have bent over backwards trying to alleviate if not eliminate your problems. I would suggest that since this has been going on from the beginning, to start and heed some of the advice given here. Unless the seeds you are growing have some bad genes (as discussed as well). It's is entirely on you. The only things plants do is grow. When unattended outdoors e.g in the wild they do fine without human intervention, providing they are not in a rain forest or going through a drought!
Attachments
Switcher56
Comfortably numb!
Just because you use on online calculator, it doesn't mean it is accurate!
My reference ISBN: 978 187 8823 342 pg 222/223
... check the scale each manufacturer uses to measure mS/cm with their meter. Here are the values that 3 major manufacturers assign:
- Hanna: 1mS/cm = 500 ppm
- Eutech: 1mS/cm = 640 ppm; and
- New Zealand Hydro: 1mS/cm = 700 ppm
I think you got something wrong.
My EC Meter is in microsiemens not ppm.
I have 443 microS.
1 EC=1000 µS/cm
Which means i have 0.443EC
M
moose eater
When I discover a TRUE hermaphrodite I cull it immediately. Haven't had one in years. The genes are skewed beyond anything I want to deal with.
If it's just a matter of (limited) male stress flowers on a true female plant, then I try to assess if it's me/my mix/my feeding, or if the plant in question stresses really easily.
If it's a matter of a vulnerable plant, that will only perform correctly in a very narrow range of environment/feed/etc. I cull it.
If it's a pant that I know for a fact has the capacity to grow properly in the right conditions, then I cull the plant(s) -I- screwed up, and start over, but without discarding those genes altogether.
Switcher56
Comfortably numb!
Gotcha moose!
However, if a plant only grows a branch or 2 with pollen sacks (the remainder female flowers), can one simply remove the offending branches, to prevent fertilizing the female pods, or is the plant a total waste e.g it won't produce mature colas? Of course this is all presuming we found out what caused the stress in the 1st place and rectified it?
Switcher56
Comfortably numb!
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]... it only means your meter is/may be calibrated by the mfr using a 500 ppm X factor, not 1000 ppm as you claim, from what I have read. The formula is as previously stated.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]TDS to EC = (T/1000)*2[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] (443/1000)*2= 0.886
EC to TDS = (E*1000)/2
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] (0.886*1000)/2= 443ppm[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]ETA: http://www.simplyhydro.com/tds-ec.htm
[/FONT]
Last edited:
M
moose eater
Gotcha moose!
However, if a plant only grows a branch or 2 with pollen sacks (the remainder female flowers), can one simply remove the offending branches, to prevent fertilizing the female pods, or is the plant a total waste e.g it won't produce mature colas? Of course this is all presuming we found out what caused the stress in the 1st place and rectified it?
In my understanding of this issue (with education coming my way and replacing what I THOUGHT I knew years ago on a somewhat regular basis), if the plant is a true hermaphrodite, then all of the adjustments in the world will not turn that plant into a true and even-keeled female. It will always have skewed genetics, as far as I have learned.
Stressed (true) females (NOT hermaphrodites) producing limited male pods on a female bloom, are a different issue, and is related to a truly amazing ability of this plant (and other species) to read the circumstances they're in, react to them, and proliferate in order to find 'happiness' or balance another season. A spinster with a mechanism built in to survive long enough to find a proper mate and season. Really miraculous/amazing in that regard.
Can you remove the branch of a hermaphrodite and keep what's left? Sure, I suspect you can, but you'll still have screwy genetics, and I'd hesitate to have such a critter around my tried and proven females. Ever.
Separating male stress pods from a true female plant becomes more difficult, even early on, as they're intermingled, and tough to get them all. The best you can hope for is that the release of pollen is timed poorly to the fertility/maturity of the female pistils.
It's not the best way, as it relies on knowing a plants potential at the time of assessment, and this isn't always the case, but if I know for a fact that a plant has a capacity to remain stable, producing good female traits with no male presence, and it's showing stress pods on a limited basis, then it's -likely- salvageable, but I'm still apt to cull that specific plant/clone/etc/, and start over.
Growing with compromised circumstances, introducing stressed plants into an area with less-stressed or healthy plants, invites catastrophe in the end, in my view of things.
Pollen travels fast, especially in a place with lots of air movement. Horny little devils, they are!!
Switcher56
Comfortably numb!
Gotcha! I would never breed a hermie or use its seeds. I would destroy the plant 1st. No use contaminating the gene pool further. My understanding from what someone else posted in this thread was to simply remove the male branches. Perhaps that is not what he/she meant. But, it was interesting prospect!
EvergreenState
Active member
Same soil, same nutrients, same water, same problems.
I've always thought that if a tiny bit of light completely throws a plant off, then it's bad genetics. You maybe able to solve a hermie problem by making sure that your grow space is completely dark but my opinion is you are treating the symptoms and not the ailment. The ailment is weak genetics. As someone else mentioned, the moon, many times, puts out a tremendous amount of light.
You should be able to purchase Reverse osmosis treated drinking water at any supermarket if you can't install an RO unit in your home; one person said that it differs from distilled water in that it does not remove minerals which is not true, it removes 99% of all minerals. You could purchase distilled water also. As someone else also stated, you don't know what is in your .45ec water!
Again also, as someone else stated, look up the Hempy bucket thread here on ICmag. It uses perlite and vermiculite. Very easy and very effective and you don't have all of the issues you get with soil. Use the RO or distilled water, use a nutrient program that corrects ph for you, I use this https://www.advancednutrients.com/products/base-nutrients/, the Grow, Micro and Bloom trio. Cheap, easy, effective and you don't have to worry about ph.
If, after doing all of that you still have problems, it's genetics.
I've always thought that if a tiny bit of light completely throws a plant off, then it's bad genetics. You maybe able to solve a hermie problem by making sure that your grow space is completely dark but my opinion is you are treating the symptoms and not the ailment. The ailment is weak genetics. As someone else mentioned, the moon, many times, puts out a tremendous amount of light.
You should be able to purchase Reverse osmosis treated drinking water at any supermarket if you can't install an RO unit in your home; one person said that it differs from distilled water in that it does not remove minerals which is not true, it removes 99% of all minerals. You could purchase distilled water also. As someone else also stated, you don't know what is in your .45ec water!
Again also, as someone else stated, look up the Hempy bucket thread here on ICmag. It uses perlite and vermiculite. Very easy and very effective and you don't have all of the issues you get with soil. Use the RO or distilled water, use a nutrient program that corrects ph for you, I use this https://www.advancednutrients.com/products/base-nutrients/, the Grow, Micro and Bloom trio. Cheap, easy, effective and you don't have to worry about ph.
If, after doing all of that you still have problems, it's genetics.
