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HELP! Water leaking in thru cement

Herb Stoner

New member
I am a waterproofer by trade and as mentioned you can not "fix" this problem from the inside. You can however give the water a place to go with a sump pump installation, if you have the needed grade or kerf cut the slab and or installing perimeter drainage just like the type found on the exterior at the base of a foundation. The second option is also pricey but is less invasive or costly then doing exterior drainage repairs.

Good luck
 

the_dungeon

Member
:badday: Thats some bad news. This isnt my house, and the other house on the property do not want/can not afford any type on remodeling like that.

Any remodeling would come out of my pocket and like I said I dont live there.


Thats why i wanted a easy cheap fix, but I guess thats not worth it.



As of today, it is completely dry. You can tell it was wey..well, besides the dirt.


I was thinking on maybe raising the whole chamber a couple inches so nothing is on the floor. and anywater that does get in will be directed towards a corner via french canal.

wacccccccck
:violin:
 

kaljukajakas

Active member
Adam from Mythbusters once said something along the lines of "it was as bad as fiberglassing a house from the inside" - in this case that would actually stop any water getting into the room and isn't terribly expensive. You'd have to apply a lot of layers though for the laminate to be strong enough to stand on it's own. And you'd have to do the entire room from floor to ceiling (or however high the water table is). Bascally you'd be building a fiberglass swimming pool using the basement as a mold :D

Pouring a bucketful of polyester resin on a dry floor between the cracks might plug them up pretty good but it would be a temporary solution... Really quick though, it would take less than a day for the resin to fully harden.
 
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HeadyPete

Take Five...
Veteran
go for the sump pump. It's your cheapest, easiest option that will work. Sealing cracks from inside is just a band aid that will fail.
 

HeadyPete

Take Five...
Veteran
VenturaHwy said:
Like most have said don't waste your time sealing from the inside, outside is the only way. I lived in different houses for 15 years with the same problem. The last house had a sump pump, just knock a hole in the cement and put in a sump with auto on off . Cold water on the floor doesn't cause mold, mold is caused by warm moist air from plants when it escapes the plant room and it condenses on cool surfaces.....

cold moist air will cause powdery mildew...
 

VenturaHwy

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
HeadyPete said:
cold moist air will cause powdery mildew...
I know it used to cause mold on my plants when it got cold at night (below 70 F) - commercial greenhouses use heat at night to stop mold, I use a dehumidifier or a heater . . .
 

HeadyPete

Take Five...
Veteran
I'm confused as to what you are referring to, as mold and powdery mildew are 2 different things.

Mold = warm moist stagnant air = fluffy, stringy, and/or fuzzy in appearance

powdery mildew = cold moist stagnant air = white and flat on leaves, like white to gray icing sugar
 

VenturaHwy

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I mainly just get mold inside the buds when they get fat. Heat and especially a dehumidifier help a lot at night. I should exhaust also at night but never have. I read many years ago that greenhouses in the UK used hot water pipes around the plants to stop mold from forming on plants at nightime.

http://www.dpi.vic.gov.au/dpi/nreni...0274836-769BEE85E05CC924CA256BCF000BBFE9?open
Environmental conditions:
Grey mould development is favoured by cool and humid conditions.
 
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hoosierdaddy

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Trust me, you can mess around for years with just about every DIY solution known to man, and you will still have a problem. You will need a professional waterproofer to do this work. They know what they are doing, and it is usually all they do.
If you can't make a homeowners claim, then you are looking a big bucks.
 

ben ttech

Active member
the fact that the deluge does not correspond to the weather...
indicated that the worest of the damage can be stopped simply with a plumbing repair...


that leak occuring without obvious topside source indicates youve got a plumbing situation to be resolved BEFORE you take on the walls of that basement...
 
M

Microwido

I had this exact problem. Noone here has yet nailed it on the head yet.

You will need Hydrolic Cement you can find this at Lowes, it comes in a smaller orange container.

What others have mentioned is to irrigate the water away from your house. Do this by whatever means necessary.

Hydrolic Cements expands as it drys, and is meant for sealing up concrete around pipes, and can cure with water touching it.

If you see any obvoius cracks at the foundation base, that is where its coming in.

Then get a good dehumidifier in there, I recommend a 40gal with an attached house for drainage.

I still get water in my grow room, but after a good rain it will dry up within 12 hours and does no harm sense the air is dry and there is circulation.
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
Cheapest and most simple solution has been mentioned already.

Channel it and pump it out.

Since you're not going to effectively stop it... cut a hole in the corner and channel what leaks into it for pumping out.

Make sure you design it so it can withstand a brisk brooming to get all the dirt out of it.

Make sure the filter on the sump is cleaned daily as well.

And yes... definitely get a dehumidifier and elevate everything off of the floor. ;)


It's doable, just a bit more work until you find some place else.

Good luck!
 
C

confedrate69

microwido
hydrolic cement was going to be my suggustion too it will stop a leak in a miniute its what they use to seal off rod holes in poured walls shure u gotta re do it every few years but it will work and last a few years
 

ben ttech

Active member
hydrolic cement is excellant for repair A hole or two... cracks are a different thing...

first... one must grind and chisel out the surrounding concrete to a depth of inches and wide enough to allow a tool to compact the cement into the space...

given the condition of the basement he describes... it sounds as though large areas of wall are dripping as well as the junction of floor to walls...

so it sounds like hes got low psi concrete down their to boot... meaning deeper trenching out of cracks before daring to attempt the batches...

i suppose a judicious treatment with this might cut a deluge down to a trickle...

be sure to wear a mask when your grinding...

peace
 
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