help me identify the problem

[heavy dank nugg]

hi... these are clones of a Alpha diesel that i took from a flowering plant....the mother didnot have this nor any of the other clones... they have not been fed nutes only water. they are in miricale grow potting mix.( save it M.G. is NOT the problem.) ive used m g b4 and never had issues. I prefer not to but sometimes its all i can find and allways dose ok. please help me identify and correct this.....thanks

 

[heavy dank nugg]

let me try again

 

[jammie]

i guess i'm "saving it" then cause it looks like nute burn

 

[heavy dank nugg]

better pics

 

[heavy dank nugg]

anyone ??????????????

 

[10k]

So I'm "saving it" too as preferted mg soil is notorious for these problems but anyway...

Input pH & ec of your water ?
run-off pH ?
Type of water ? (tap, bottled drinking, distilled, spring, etc)

 

[perakko]

i'd say ph caused lockout.

 

[HeadyPete]

I'm also "saving it"...

10k said it....the more you water time release ferts (MG soil), the more you burn....

If you must use whatever soil is available, buy a seed starting mix or potting mix with no ferts added.

 

[heavy dank nugg]

so all you guys feel like its nute burn caused by the m.g.??? the other clone in the same soil from the same bag. rooted on the same day etc.... has no issues whatsoever. wouldnt it stand to reason if you were right the other clone would also be burnt????? they get tap water. the same amount at the same time. mabey twice every week. sometimes only once.

 

[heavy dank nugg]

i'd say ph caused lockout.

the plant is growing and not wilting. its not locked up

 

[HeadyPete]

more ferts in the soil in the burning plant than in the other...soil nutes are not always distributed evenly in the soil.

 

[heavy dank nugg]

I'm also "saving it"...

10k said it....the more you water time release ferts (MG soil), the more you burn....

If you must use whatever soil is available, buy a seed starting mix or potting mix with no ferts added.

dont get options like that sometimes its m.g. or nada...(as in no other choice at all)

 

[heavy dank nugg]

more ferts in the soil in the burning plant than in the other...soil nutes are not always distributed evenly in the soil.

that makes sence... so my only cure is to transplANT RIGHT.

 

[Phillthy]

mg needs to be chopped up and mixed extremely well then mixed again to distribute it all evenly. one "chunk" of it can cause issues.

 

[Dirtfinger]

What are the white spots on the affected leaves in the pics?

 

[10k]

more ferts in the soil in the burning plant than in the other...soil nutes are not always distributed evenly in the soil.

exactly, the bag may have had most of its little osmocote dingfods settled to one end of the bag when the soil that didn't burn a plant was taken out, leaving an even more caustic bag of bunk for the troubled plant(s).

 

[Chimera]

The pH of your medium is too low, which is locking out Mg thus resulting in the 'patchy' and 'upwardly curling' burn marks.

I see this exact set of symptoms with people all of the time... you can tell by looking at the difference in the colour and texture of the leaves (compared to older growth)- the veins and the tissue in between on the lamina (leaf blade) especially on the newer growth - the tissue in between seems raised or ridge-like. If left as is the leaf will become a more lime green colour, and the leaves will become smaller. Your growth has slowed tremendously, and the crowns of your apical shoot are more compact or 'tighter clustered' and the leaves don't spread out wide like they normally do.

The reason you are seeing this is because you are feeding at a higher rate than the plants can absorb. This is causing the amount of nutrients in the soil to build up, and the pH to DROP as it does.

You need to flush out your plants completely (capture a glass full of the water), and feed them water with strait water and Epsom Salts at maybe 50 ppm... pH at 8-9. I know this sounds high, but trust me it is the fastest way to neutralize the acidity you have created in the medium. You will see results in no time.

As 10k suggested, by capturing the effluent (run-off) from the plants when you water/flush you can determine the problem by the pH and EC/ppm (water wth pH 7 water, and measure your ppm before watering). I'll bet you a couple of packs of C-plus that you'll see a pH of 5.5 or lower and a ppm of more than 700!


In the future- feed less, or water with pH neutral water between feedings. I would imagine you could cut your feeding regime by at least 1/2 and probably even 2/3 and not see any negative impact on yield; and your plants will be healthier (more lush growth), be easier to flush, and taste and burn better.

I would also start watering at a pH of 6.7-7.0 . The natural tendency in most gardens is for the pH of the medium to drop over the crop., and a slightly higher pH will help a little. You can keep an eye and on this by catching and measuring the effluent (run-off) when you water.

Consider for next time adding more dolomite lime to your soil mix as well, but keep in mind it is essentially a powdered rock and does breakdown quite slowly, therefore isn't the greatest for container gardening imo. Works great in beds that are re-planted and amended over years though.

For emergency pH raising, consider sprinkling horticultural lime on top and watering in. It is a finer grade powder than dolomite (usually) and is more water soluble, giving faster results.

-Chimera

 

[irieeyes808]

Mine were doing that as well I think maybee ph flux??? or over fert? You will be fine maybe try some bottled water and some fish emusion? Be good n safe!

 

[heavy dank nugg]

The pH of your medium is too low, which is locking out Mg thus resulting in the 'patchy' and 'upwardly curling' burn marks.

I see this exact set of symptoms with people all of the time... you can tell by looking at the difference in the colour and texture of the leaves (compared to older growth)- the veins and the tissue in between on the lamina (leaf blade) especially on the newer growth - the tissue in between seems raised or ridge-like. If left as is the leaf will become a more lime green colour, and the leaves will become smaller. Your growth has slowed tremendously, and the crowns of your apical shoot are more compact or 'tighter clustered' and the leaves don't spread out wide like they normally do.

The reason you are seeing this is because you are feeding at a higher rate than the plants can absorb. This is causing the amount of nutrients in the soil to build up, and the pH to DROP as it does.

You need to flush out your plants completely (capture a glass full of the water), and feed them water with strait water and Epsom Salts at maybe 50 ppm... pH at 8-9. I know this sounds high, but trust me it is the fastest way to neutralize the acidity you have created in the medium. You will see results in no time.

As 10k suggested, by capturing the effluent (run-off) from the plants when you water/flush you can determine the problem by the pH and EC/ppm (water wth pH 7 water, and measure your ppm before watering). I'll bet you a couple of packs of C-plus that you'll see a pH of 5.5 or lower and a ppm of more than 700!


In the future- feed less, or water with pH neutral water between feedings. I would imagine you could cut your feeding regime by at least 1/2 and probably even 2/3 and not see any negative impact on yield; and your plants will be healthier (more lush growth), be easier to flush, and taste and burn better.

I would also start watering at a pH of 6.7-7.0 . The natural tendency in most gardens is for the pH of the medium to drop over the crop., and a slightly higher pH will help a little. You can keep an eye and on this by catching and measuring the effluent (run-off) when you water.

Consider for next time adding more dolomite lime to your soil mix as well, but keep in mind it is essentially a powdered rock and does breakdown quite slowly, therefore isn't the greatest for container gardening imo. Works great in beds that are re-planted and amended over years though.

For emergency pH raising, consider sprinkling horticultural lime on top and watering in. It is a finer grade powder than dolomite (usually) and is more water soluble, giving faster results.

-Chimera

this is one of the most informitave and helpfull posts ive ever had and would like to thank chimera......1. for helping me 2. for staying true to true breeding...3 for taking the time to run amongst us minions.....If You Havent Tried It Yet .....Get some of chimeras gear....and then you will know.

 

[heavy dank nugg]

k i did everything chimera said heres my results

pre flush p.h.4.53 ppm 845 (yikes i know) dumped 6-7 gallons of ph 8.5-8.8 water through
after flush runoff reads ph 6.2 ppm 111. these numbers sound ok?
i guess i owe you a couple packs of c plus ehh?