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Heat mats for concrete floors

Jhhnn

Active member
Veteran
The heat controller only turns the mat on and off. The mat runs as hot as it can when on.

A subfloor w/insulation is the way to go. I have to say that having anything electrical on the floor with water is just asking for it. Mats will deteriorate in time, and probaly fairly soon from what I've seen. Good luck. -granger

Agreed. Anybody who can't live w/o heat mats needs to use GFCI.
 

Hottish

Active member
a programmable stat with a probe senor that you can put in the bottom of a pot are cheap

electric heat mats for under floor heating will not degrade available in .5m2 to 16m2 but they draw while heating 150amp / m2, work well in a layer of sand

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-L...prg=20140107092241&rk=3&rkt=4&sd=251347129284

:tiphat:
The heat controller only turns the mat on and off. The mat runs as hot as it can when on.

A subfloor w/insulation is the way to go. I have to say that having anything electrical on the floor with water is just asking for it. Mats will deteriorate in time, and probaly fairly soon from what I've seen. Good luck. -granger
 

Hottish

Active member
http://www.hotboxworld.com/products/hotbox-heatwave/5/cat

This is the mat you want! Perhaps some polystyrene will prevent it breaking unexpectedly.


HEAT DISTRIBUTION…….The Heatwave root zone heating system is the only method available that can guarantee an even spread of heat across the entire surface.
The heating element is laminated in sheets of foil, resulting in no cold or hot spots, just even temperatures.

This Heatwave is for beds not pots as most people here use and will require a layer of sand to dissipate the heat or there will be hot spots , the same as with UFH mats & probe will work in the sand or pot , for a rhizosphere temp of 20C set the stat to 23C with the probe in sand, the polystyrene is used a a thermal break from the ground /air best to use insulation boards with a low uv value , the heat wires are heavy and will not be damaged easily

Trade & distribution prices on these Heatwaves is cheap , I have fitted 1000sm2 of similar http://rayotec.com/electric-underfloor-heating/mat-kit-for-wood-carpet

:tiphat:
 

Mate Dave

Propagator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The heatwave works with pots or any situation implemented, even heats the water in the res.
You don't need sand for it to work. If you were to raise the pots with milk crates you are able to bring the night temp's up to within 3 degrees of the day temperature with ground heat.

On large tunnel grows it's possible to wire standard domestic underfloor heating and then laminate the floor.
 

TedNugget

Member
Yes, you want the root zone cooler but not cold. I wouldn't care about root zone temps if growth hadn't slowed down...

I've seen those interlocking (rubber or foam) floor mats suggested a couple if times now. Would those work to insulate the room from the concrete?
They would be the easiest solution for me at this time. Id think they would probably work but I'm not sure. I can do a sub floor but it would be tricky (for various different reasons) those inter locking mats would be a better solution for me at this point in time if they will suffice...
 

Hottish

Active member
Yes they will work without the sand but the sand will help to even out hot spots

The heatwave works with pots or any situation implemented, even heats the water in the res.
You don't need sand for it to work. If you were to raise the pots with milk crates you are able to bring the night temp's up to within 3 degrees of the day temperature with ground heat.

On large tunnel grows it's possible to wire standard domestic underfloor heating and then laminate the floor.
 

Hottish

Active member
run down to your local builders providers for foil faced insulation sheets they come in standard sizes 1200x600mm 1200x1200mm 2400x1200mm etc ,

if you are joining them tape the joints same with rubber mats they will work more efficiently less air flow or raise them off the floor as MD suggested for a start if you have the headroom

:tiphat:

Yes, you want the root zone cooler but not cold. I wouldn't care about root zone temps if growth hadn't slowed down...

I've seen those interlocking (rubber or foam) floor mats suggested a couple if times now. Would those work to insulate the room from the concrete?
They would be the easiest solution for me at this time. Id think they would probably work but I'm not sure. I can do a sub floor but it would be tricky (for various different reasons) those inter locking mats would be a better solution for me at this point in time if they will suffice...
 
I'd be mindful that the room temps alone might just neutralize any concerns you have in terms of root temps.

I'd rather spend electrical money elsewhere. I wouldn't even worry about it. If anything it'll help with the cooling issues we all have.
 

TedNugget

Member
Yeah i dont want to use electricity on a high wattage space heater. But things have slowed down in the cold. Thats why im hoping if i cover the concrete floor the room will hold the light heat better and therefore stay warmer for free (more/less). I'm kind of trying to avoid having to get those big 4x8 sheets. I have no real way of getting them where they need to go. Unless maybe I had them cut into sections...? That is why I was just thinking of going with those inter-locking floor mats (rubber more than likely). But I don't know if they would provide any real insulation from the concrete. Do you guys think that those interlocking floor tiles/mats would help keep more heat in the room? Or do I have to just find a way to get those 4x8 insulation boards? Something like these are what I was asking about - http://t.homedepot.com/b/Flooring-Garage-Flooring-Interlocking-Tile/N-5yc1vZb999
 
N

noyd666

can get the solid interlocking,has insulation under, been there 12 months no probs:tiphat:
picture.php
 

Jhhnn

Active member
Veteran
1" thick foam mats, like the ones I linked from Sam's, will provide a pretty good thermal break between the floor & the space/pots, particularly if you cover the whole floor.
 

TedNugget

Member
Thanks again for all the help. I really appreciate it. I am going to go with those interlocking mats and go from there. I like the idea of being able to pull sections of them up so I could set my reservoir directly onto the concrete floor if/when I switch back over to my AeroFlo or in the summer etc.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Are you going to ever get water on the floor? Are the interlocking floor mats water proof? If so, and if not, you're going to have a huge moldy mess under the mats. Good luck. -granger
 

dansbuds

Retired from the workforce Bullshit
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Are you going to ever get water on the floor? Are the interlocking floor mats water proof? If so, and if not, you're going to have a huge moldy mess under the mats. Good luck. -granger


:yeahthats exactly !!! & why i said use pond liner over the insulation board . for leaks & the extra insulation of the rubber material .
 
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