Hash oil techniques and solvents for non BHO hash oil?

[SkyHighLer]

I'm working on it..... A few pics in the mean time.

There are three power cutoffs with this model, the Megahome distiller has just the reset and a fuse.

In the overview pic you can see on the side of the can the 115C/239F Power reset temp cutout, in the middle is the 150C/302F over temp cutout, and the pic showing me holding a wire soldered to a ring terminal is the fail safe cutout (the solder melts letting the wire go free - it's not crimped.)

I'm eliminating much of it and adding a thermocouple, full details in a few days.

What I want everyone to see is the inside of the Power reset temp cutout. The fit of the reset shaft is sloppy, worse than I imagined, and the back side isn't a perfect seal either. It's being eliminated, I don't need it for my purposes, and it's a potential ignition source. Why I suggest examining any electrical device before repurposing it.

I doubt anyone has had a fire from recycling ethanol in these off the shelf, but if you have the know how, you can do better. I'm J-B Welding the over heat cutout directly to the middle of the can right now, hot rodding it so to speak.

The condenser is also getting a thermocouple temp sensor.

Same plan, power meter > Variac > distiller with temp readings.


Btw, I received some exact replacement seal/gaskets, two for ten bucks direct from China,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Seal-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Here's some pictures of the wiring minus the low cutout, and the other extraneous pieces. As mentioned in the quote, you could leave it unmodified, or just bypass the low cutoff by connecting it's leads together.

The ring lug K thermocouple is just an ordinary thermocouple crimped at the insulation to a cheap terminal, I'm making a simpler, faster reading, and more robust replacement by potting a K thermocouple to a high quality ring lug using J-B Weld, pictures later.


I did a dry test, the cutoff and sensor both seem to be well placed based on my my IR gun readings.

The Variac control is smooth, and the power meter slick, 60 watts provides a steady 250F for decarbing, and only 100 watts quickly triggers the 300F cutout.


In the pictures you can see the appliance cord plug is labeled Neutral, Line, and Earth. They chose to put these two over-temperature disconnects in the Neutral line, I'm assuming the logic is if the solder gets hot enough to flow, and the 'fail safe' wire comes free, you want it to be the Neutral. I figure if it ever gets that hot the solvent should be gone, and there is something wrong, you need it to shut down.

 

[SkyHighLer]

Shown:

Water distiller seal/gasket exact replacements
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Seal-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Food grade silicone tubing
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-ID-x-1...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Two channel K thermometer
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Chann...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

110V/20A Variac
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Variac-Aut...292564?hash=item3d1d763a94:g:OvYAAOSwjXRXY2b7

P-3 Kill-A-Watt power meter
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...ower+meter.TRS0&_nkw=p-3+power+meter&_sacat=0

$65 750W water distiller
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4L-Stainle...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Second appliance power cord,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004I63XJW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Extension cord
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0153T1QZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The tubing pinched when bent to conform to the neck of the opening, so I drilled a hole for it. Start with a small starter bit, move up through the bits, low RPMs, be prepared for the buck from the bite.


The second K thermocouple probe will be attached to the condenser tube, at the intake, right after the ninety would be a good location from what I found at YouTube, we'll see.


The hole where the resettable cutoff was located is perfect for taking an IR thermometer reading of the lower wall of the vessel.


I intend on doing the final boil offs with a small personal computer case fan suspended at the top of the vessel in lieu of the condenser assembly. Then I can use my IR gun and/or kitchen thermocouple probe thermometer to check the temperature.


Here's a very tight video on "How to make cannabis oil with a Distiller"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObQ_WDT7G5Y

My modified distiller will do it all, though I'll probably do the final purge of dabbing oil under vacuum since I have the equipment.

 

[SkyHighLer]

In the US benzene is the chemical name for a highly carcinogenic compound. "Because benzene is a human carcinogen, most non-industrial applications have been limited."

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benzene



And petroleum benzine is a relatively unknown, and loosely defined term for a petroleum faction.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petroleum_ether

"Petroleum ether
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
"Benzine" redirects here. It is not to be confused with Benzene.

Petroleum ether is the petroleum fraction consisting of aliphatic hydrocarbons and boiling in the range 35‒60 °C; commonly used as a laboratory solvent. The term ether is used only figuratively, signifying extreme lightness and volatility."

"The very lightest, most volatile liquid hydrocarbon solvents that can be bought from laboratory chemical suppliers may also be offered under the name petroleum ether."

"Petroleum ether bears normally a descriptive suffix giving the boiling range. Thus, from the leading international laboratory chemical suppliers it is possible to buy various petroleum ethers with boiling ranges such as 30-50 °C, 40-60 °C, 50-70 °C, 60-80 °C, etc. In the United States, laboratory grade aliphatic hydrocarbon solvents with boiling ranges as high as 100-140 °C may be called petroleum ether, rather than petroleum spirit."

"Ligroin is assigned the CAS Registry Number 8032-32-4, which is also applied to many other products, particularly the lower boiling ones, called petroleum spirit, petroleum ether, and petroleum benzine. "Naphtha" has the CAS Registry Number 8030-30-6, which also covers petroleum benzine and petroleum ether: that is, the lower boiling point non-aromatic hydrocarbon solvents.

DIN 51630 provides for petroleum spirit (also called spezialbenzine or petrolether) which is described as "a special boiling-point spirit commonly used in laboratory applications, having high volatility and low aromatics content." Its initial boiling point is above 25 °C, its final boiling point up to 80 °C."



So what is the "benzine" Rick Simpson is referring to in this video? (or see the attached screenshot)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZK-1hQ9QbQ


He could be referring to light petroleum ether, but from the Wiki quotes above you can see this could be anything from the 35-60C faction, which is just pentane and hexane to broader factions up to naphtha.

Benzene (the carcinogenic compound) has a boiling point of 80C, so a petroleum benzine (petroleum ether) faction below 80C (35-60C) doesn't contain benzene.

White gas, Coleman Fuel, naphtha, and lighter fluid can't say they're near 100% anything on their MSDS's. In spite of what Rick says, they are crude solvents in that they contain benzene, and even minute residual traces (> 2 ppm) of benzene have been declared unacceptable by the FDA.

FDA USP <467> Residual Solvent classification lists,

https://www.usp.org/sites/default/files/usp_pdf/EN/USPNF/generalChapter467Current.pdf


Petroleum ether (35-60C)
https://www.rightpricechemicals.com/buy-petroleum-ether-35-60-ligroin-online.html

Pentane (36C)
https://www.rightpricechemicals.com/buy-n-pentane-99-online.html

Hexane (69C)
https://www.rightpricechemicals.com/buy-hexanes-online.html

Benzene (80C) highly carcinogenic!!!
https://www.rightpricechemicals.com/buy-benzene-reagent-acs.html


Otherwise, right on Rick!!!

 

[SkyHighLer]

I took the condenser assembly apart again to find the best entryway for the thermocouple. I was hoping for alongside the power cord, but there's no space there, so I'll bring it in through the spigot area, and use the nearby bolt for strain relief of the sensor attachment point. I plan on J-B Welding the tip of the sensor to the condenser, but a short piece of silicone tubing or shrink tube holding it tight against the tube are other options.

So, while I had it apart I found a bugger, they used two screws that are way too long, protruding into the condenser path. Not accepting this was purposeful (maybe they meant to adjust the condenser level, or distance the condenser fins from the power cord,) I replaced them with screws that no longer protrude through the plastic. I straightened a few fins, and reinstalled the condenser, making sure it was fully seated, much better with little to no rocking.

The condenser's only attachment point is where it is griped by a silicone grommet. This is the seal, so it is of value to understand how it fits.

I realize this is too technical for most, I just wanted to get the pics up for those interested.

 

[SkyHighLer]

The fan baffle inside the lid can be positioned three ways, this is the only change you can make to center the blades.

I added a few washers, lock washers, and nuts here and there.

 

[brown_thumb]

SkyHighLer,

Have you noticed any oxidation due to ethanol reacting with the aluminum parts?

 

[SkyHighLer]

All the exposed areas are stainless steel.

I inquired of the eBay retailer concerning the protruding screws.

 

[brown_thumb]

All the exposed areas are stainless steel.

I inquired of the eBay retailer concerning the protruding screws.

Thank you.

 

[SkyHighLer]

Here's the water distiller with a PID temperature controller,

http://shop.makeyourmeds.com/Canna-Extractor-001.htm

Video,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quf_gmabcRk

 

[brown_thumb]

Aren't similar machines available on eBay for less than US$100?

EXAMPLE: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4L-Pure-Water-Distiller-Purifier-304-Stainless-Steel-Body-Filter-Glass-Jar-1L-h/172754574972?_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D211e27e3f6da49638b562583613269f1%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D172754574972&_trkparms=pageci%253Ac653a703-787f-11e7-9bac-74dbd180943b%257Cparentrq%253Aa983f66615d0a8840bba0cc7ffff9176%257Ciid%253A1

 

[SkyHighLer]

That's a generic Chinese unit similar to what I have, but in black, with a stainless case, and with a glass collection container instead of plastic, mine was about $65.


Here's a recent post on another thread where I present the reasoning for controlling the wattage rather than just using a PID temperature controller.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7989789&postcount=14

 

[SkyHighLer]

Here's some pictures of the wiring minus the low cutout, and the other extraneous pieces. As mentioned in the quote, you could leave it unmodified, or just bypass the low cutoff by connecting it's leads together.

The ring lug K thermocouple is just an ordinary thermocouple crimped at the insulation to a cheap terminal, I'm making a simpler, faster reading, and more robust replacement by potting a K thermocouple to a high quality ring lug using J-B Weld, pictures later.


I did a dry test, the cutoff and sensor both seem to be well placed based on my my IR gun readings.

The Variac control is smooth, and the power meter slick, 60 watts provides a steady 250F for decarbing, and only 100 watts quickly triggers the 300F cutout.


In the pictures you can see the appliance cord plug is labeled Neutral, Line, and Earth. They chose to put these two over-temperature disconnects in the Neutral line, I'm assuming the logic is if the solder gets hot enough to flow, and the 'fail safe' wire comes free, you want it to be the Neutral. I figure if it ever gets that hot the solvent should be gone, and there is something wrong, you need it to shut down.

Pictures of the final heater rewire. I decided to stick with the cheap ring terminal sensor, it works ok. I took a look at it under magnification and the sensor seems to be in firm contact with the ring, I could have added a drop of J-B Weld to make sure, but I'm getting tight, solid 98.5-100C readings of boiling water at 350-1000 watts (the Variac provides over-volting providing more watts than the heater's rated at.)

I'm not a welder, and the spot welded terminals on the heater leads left me feeling uncomfortable, so I J-B Welded them. I also replaced the thin ring terminals, the white sleeving used as strain relief is glass braid tubing.

I bought a variety of sizes of high temp glass braid tubing from this seller,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-3...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

My testing so far is indicating dialing down the wattage of the powerful heater to avoid the solution boiling up too high is the way, if I just connected the sensor to a PID controller there is no way to control the boiling rate, the temp span from simmer to roiling boil is too tight. First dial in the wattage, and then cap the temp with the controller if desired.

 

[SkyHighLer]

Here's pictures, I'm testing it out doing a controlled tap water distillation.

I discovered the most valuable temperature reading other than the lower vessel's is the change in temperature of last stretch of condenser tubing. It remained gently warm as I adjusted the wattage up, and then quickly became hot when I reached the point where the condenser overloaded.

Slick, I may end up just attaching a bare ended K thermocouple to the silicone tubing between the still and the collection container rather than taking a reading from the condenser head, I'm more interested in optimizing the distillation rate than fractionally distilling one solvent from another.


I used Performix Liquid Tape to create a flexible strain relief for the thermocouple lead. Ugly, and it isn't very solvent proof, I should have just used shrink tube, etc. I mention it because Liquid Tape is convenient for insulating, and air/liquid tight sealing of stuff it's just not possible to seal otherwise, a three or more way electrical joint you can't place shrink tube over, or the entire back side of a switch including the quick connects. The only way to use it is to dob it, it can't be swathed on or smoothed after the first dob, it's made with several solvents, and a couple of them are included just to produce a 'skin' immediately so it doesn't run, this stuff will try anyone's patience!!


I found what seems to be nice bolt on sensors with braided glass fiber insulation leads at reasonable pricing, but Omega wants $12 shipping... it's what I'd include if I were to mod these stills for others.

https://www.omega.com/pptst/WT.html


Towards the end I lowered the wattage, and when the temperature reading of the base of the vessel rose to 101C and continued to climb I cut the power completely, and found a small pool of dirty water left, perfect. I suspect the sensor I eliminated that is supposed to cut the power before all the water is boiled off doesn't work too well from my understanding of the function of the design implementation, and from the innuendo of what I read at the Meagahome site concerning it's replacement, and their fuse replacement video at YouTube.


I'm trying out the second thermocouple on the condenser outlet now, works perfectly, pictures added. I'm thinking of attaching the thermocouple to a little clip so I can easily slip it on and off of the tubing, in the mean time I wrapped several layers of PTFE pipe tape around it.

 

[troutman]

Why not get a real laboratory still?

I distilled N-Hexane and alcohols using a glass still this Summer.

That water distiller hack is going to spark one day and your place is going to go BOOM.

Fire insurance won't cover that.

 

[SkyHighLer]

As I mentioned previously, the water distiller is recommended by Jeff Ditchfield in his book and video.

The Medical Cannabis Guidebook: The Definitive Guide To Using and Growing Medicinal Marijuana Paperback – November 11, 2014
by Jeff Ditchfield (Author), Mel Thomas (Author)

https://youtu.be/z58FiH87-6w


If and when the distiller is used for something flammable it will go outside, that is why I have the long cords.

Make sure the plug to the heater is firmly inserted into the units receptacle, it will spark big if it wiggles loose.

The condenser unit can be flipped upside down, and set atop the base unit. It rests at an angle to blow air over the solvent and oil for final evaporation with the wattage turned way, way down. Then I can prop the base unit upside down, and with the heater still turned way down, let the oil slowly drain onto parchment paper, a little assist from a silicone spatula should help. Then vac purge with gentle heat because I have the equipment to do so.



"Jeff Ditchfield
37 mutual friends including Mike Graham and Ed Davis
Consultant at Cannabis Consultant
Lives in Negril, Jamaica
JUL 14TH, 7:46AM


John(SkyHighLer)
If you have a link to a better solvent guide than the one I'm creating let me know, here's a link to the solvents I've purchased for testing, https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7933632&postcount=162 I've taken up most of that forum thread documenting my reasoning and US suppliers. I'm working on upgrading the pot still with temp control and readout at this time, I should be posting up about it soon. Best, your book is the best I've come across yet, very similar to Skunk Pharm Research's work... Thanks



AUG 10TH, 5:14AM

Jeff Ditchfield accepted your request.
Jeff Ditchfield


Hi

So sorry for the delay but I have just found this message folder on messenger

How is it going? And a great study btw ❤

I am a big fan of Grey Wolf at skunkpharma

When I was writing the solvent section in the MCG I was conscious not to recommend one solvent over another and I preferred to discus the pros & cons of the most popular and let the reader make an informed choice

I will be very pleased to share across my media when you publish and don't hesitate to ask if there's any way I can assist


Take care"

 

[SkyHighLer]

Here's pictures, I'm testing it out doing a controlled tap water distillation.

I discovered the most valuable temperature reading other than the lower vessel's is the change in temperature of last stretch of condenser tubing. It remained gently warm as I adjusted the wattage up, and then quickly became hot when I reached the point where the condenser overloaded.

Slick, I may end up just attaching a bare ended K thermocouple to the silicone tubing between the still and the collection container rather than taking a reading from the condenser head, I'm more interested in optimizing the distillation rate than fractionally distilling one solvent from another.


I used Performix Liquid Tape to create a flexible strain relief for the thermocouple lead. Ugly, and it isn't very solvent proof, I should have just used shrink tube, etc. I mention it because Liquid Tape is convenient for insulating, and air/liquid tight sealing of stuff it's just not possible to seal otherwise, a three or more way electrical joint you can't place shrink tube over, or the entire back side of a switch including the quick connects. The only way to use it is to dob it, it can't be swathed on or smoothed after the first dob, it's made with several solvents, and a couple of them are included just to produce a 'skin' immediately so it doesn't run, this stuff will try anyone's patience!!


I found what seems to be nice bolt on sensors with braided glass fiber insulation leads at reasonable pricing, but Omega wants $12 shipping... it's what I'd include if I were to mod these stills for others.

https://www.omega.com/pptst/WT.html


Towards the end I lowered the wattage, and when the temperature reading of the base of the vessel rose to 101C and continued to climb I cut the power completely, and found a small pool of dirty water left, perfect. I suspect the sensor I eliminated that is supposed to cut the power before all the water is boiled off doesn't work too well from my understanding of the function of the design implementation, and from the innuendo of what I read at the Meagahome site concerning it's replacement, and their fuse replacement video at YouTube.


I'm trying out the second thermocouple on the condenser outlet now, works perfectly, pictures added. I'm thinking of attaching the thermocouple to a little clip so I can easily slip it on and off of the tubing, in the mean time I wrapped several layers of PTFE pipe tape around it.

I did a couple of more water distillations with the above setup to confirm it is dialed in enough to proceed.

Here's how it works:

I make a mark on my collection container showing how much solvent or solvent/oil mixture I'm putting in the distiller.

I turn the Variac up full, over-volting the heater during ramp up to the boiling point. The heater plugged directly into the wall draws about 725 watts, over-volted, about 1,000 watts.

When the condenser discharge tubing temperature starts to increase from ambient, I immediately cut the wattage down. It takes about twenty minutes to get four quarts of water up to distillation temperature range using 1,000 watts, and I use 700 watts for the rest of a water distillation.

The temperature reading of the bottom of the boiling vessel distilling water runs between 210-212.5F. The condenser output tubing reading varies conversely, and runs between 100-110F.

I either keep an eye on it, or come back when I know approximately the end of distillation from experience. It takes about three and a half hours for four quarts of water at 700 watts of input.

I then watch the vessel temperature reading, and when it climbs past 112.5F I switch off the heater power completely.

After the temperature reading of the boil off vessel drops below scalding, I cut power to the condenser fan.

Distilling water with this method leaves a little over half a cup of extremely brackish tail in the vessel. Perfect!!


To distill other solvents, you simply need to determine the wattage to cut back to during distillation (you can still use the full 1,000 watt over-volting during the initial heat up.) Once you know how long it takes to distill a particular volume of solvent using a specific dialed in wattage you can estimate the time of completion, and do something else while you wait.




Another video showing a water distiller used to reclaim solvent,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObQ_WDT7G5Y

 

[SkyHighLer]

Details and tips concerning the water distiller:

Pictures of the upper condenser/fan unit setting upside down atop the lower unit to blow off the rest of the solvent with minimal heat.

Plug the condenser outlet tube before removing the upper unit to keep from making a mess and possibly scalding yourself with hot solvent. Give the condenser unit a thorough shaking with the tube plugged before setting it aside unplugged to dry out after use.

Picture of how far the three feet allow the unit to tip, by tipping it around through the three directions you can move the solvent/oil around during decarboxylation, etc.



I messed around with the Variac on my vacuum chamber heat mat. The first picture shows the Variac being fed by the output of the solid state relay of my PID controller setup, it worked for about a minute before the relay quite working, light on - no current. I unplugged it and it returned to functionality, I didn't repeat the test, I only half expected a positive result, can't win 'em all. Feeding the solid state relay the output of the Variac seems to be the only way left, should be no problem except the SS relay won't pass current when the voltage is less than 24 volts so you can't feather it all the way down.

While I was at it I compared the control precision of a cheap wall dimmer to the Variac, see the last picture.

The wall dimmer turns on at about 120 watts, once it's on you can back it down to nearly nothing, but if you reach the end of rotation it shuts down again, and you have to turn it up again past 120 to get it to work.

With the Variac I can dial in to a watt or two of the desired wattage, with the wall dimmer it's at best three to five watts of the desired wattage. Huge difference in 'feel.'

The silicone mat under the vacuum chamber read 284 watts plugged directly into the wall or fed from the wall dimmer at max. It read a slewing 140-250 watts when fed through the SS relay of the PID controller, and 409 watts when over-volted via the Variac. That's a lot of extra wattage when you want it.

 

[Yodaweed]

I'd recommend rosin press technique, no solvents needed.

 

[SkyHighLer]

I'd recommend rosin press technique, no solvents needed.

How do you filter rosin down to the 2.5 micron level I've found necessary to avoid debris build up on my nail and lungs? I use 2.5 micron filter paper as I've found 10-12 micron paper leaves too much plant material, and you want someone to put up with 25 micron filtration at best?

How does rosin look and smell after decarbing it at 250F?


And if you believe there are other active healing components to cannabis than what's in the the trichs, you're again back to solvents.


Besides rosin isn't a practical way to process trim.


That's my entire rebuttal, pass the rosin...

 

[SkyHighLer]

It came to me how to incorporate Variac wattage control with PID temperature control, use a mechanical relay instead of the solid state relay, and have it switch the output of the Variac.

You initially set the PID set point high enough to deliver un-switched full power, then you adjust the Variac until you're supplying slightly more wattage than necessary to maintain the desired temperature, finally you back the PID set point down to the desired temperature.


PID control alone is like a poorly designed automobile cruise control that pulses a floored accelerator to maintain speed. The Variac smooths out the pulses.


Mini Power Relay SPDT 120V 30A
$8.97
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=250


Update: I ordered a PID controller for $11 with free S&H from China, a 120V/30A SPST mechanical relay, and a K thermocouple female panel connector. I intend on using a small Tupperware style container for the project box, and extension cords for wiring.

If you get a DPST relay, or an actual contactor, and add a switch to energize it you can have the power fully disconnect at set point if you like. Basic contractor circuit, I'll describe it fully when I post up pictures and details of the DIY PID controller project.

Further update:

The $11 PID doesn't seem to have a mechanical relay output option, so I went looking...

Check out this baby from Auberins,

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=14

Universal 1/32 DIN PID Temperature Controller
$35.06

Model: SYL-1512A

Product Description:
This universal temperature controller can be used as PID temperature controller, On/off temperature controller, Limit temperature controller, or simply as a thermometer/pyrometer with bright LED display and alarm output. It offers great value for its price, as it is accurate, smart, and reliable. It is one of the smallest 1/32 DIN PID controllers on the market and the perfect unit for hobbyists to upgrade their brewer, incubator, espresso machine or glass kiln and professionals in industrial use. The newly developed artificial intelligence enhanced PID algorithm and auto-tune function will control the temperature within one degree accuracy without complicated PID parameter fine tuning. This controller contains all the primary functions of an industrial grade PID controller but is also made simple for amateur use.

The PID control mode can maintain the temperature within one degree when properly tuned. The on/off control mode is useful for controlling refrigerator, motor, or solenoid valve that does not favor frequent switching. Users can set the target temperature and hysteresis band. It will work like a mechanical thermostat with higher accuracy and tighter temperature range. Limit control mode can be used for safety protection and special applications. When connected to a contactor, it can function as a latching relay that will shut off the system if the temperature is out of control. The heater will not be turned back on until reset manually. The limit control is also useful for automatic shutdown applications when a certain temperature is reached. e.g., ceramic kiln firing, meat cooking, and distillation. All the control modes can be set for either relay output or SSR control output by user. When using the SSR output, the relay output can be used as an alarm output. A splash proof gasket is added for wet environment and outdoor applications.

Recently, we added an option for additional LED display colors. The white LED display will give the controller a more modern look than the traditional red LED.

Features:
Compact size, 1/32 DIN that is only 24x48x75mm (0.95 x 1.89 x3")
Artificial intelligence enhanced PID algorithm provides precise control
Auto-tune function can automatically find the best PID parameters
On/Off control mode for refrigerator, motor and solenoid valve control application
Limit control mode for safety protection and special applications
Supports 10 different types of commonly used temperature sensor inputs
Displays temperature in either Fahrenheit or Celsius
Output configuration can be set by user for either relay contactor or SSR control
90-days warranty


You lose the Alarm when outputting to a mechanical relay rather than a solid state relay, otherwise it does exactly what I want, it can be switched to PID control, on/off set point limiting, or set point cut-off. With this controller you don't need a fancy relay or contractor with tricky wiring to have a cut-off switch, the simple SPST power relay I ordered will do just fine.

And the manual is in understandable English!!

https://www.auberins.com/images/Manual/SYL-1512A2instruction 1.0.pdf

6. On/off control mode
On/off control mode is not as precise as PID control mode. However it is necessary for inductive loads such as motors, compressors, and solenoid valves that do not like to take pulsed power. It works like a mechanical thermostat. When the temperature passes the set point, the heater (or cooler) will be turned off. When the temperature drops back to below the hysteresis band (dead band) the heater will turn on again.

7. Limit control mode
The limit control mode will shut the heater off when SV is reached. The heater will not be turned on again until the controller is reset manually (press the SET key for 5 seconds). The controller can’t be reset when the temperature is within the hysteresis band (Hy).


Update:

Here's pictures of what I have so far, I still need a couple of short extension cords, a heavy duty one for the relay switched line in and out, and another light weight ungrounded one just to power the microprocessor controller, and supply the switched current to the relay coil.

The controller and K thermocouple receptacle will fit into cutouts in the inverted Rubbermaid container base as shown. A couple of screws/nuts will attach the relay to the inside of the container base next to the microprocessor.

Also show are some switches with covers (notice the picture showing they are not sealed on the back side.) The power relay in the background is the DPST I had planned on using with the switches before I found the slick microprocessor controller. The coiled cable is K thermocouple extension wire, and there's another of the un-inexpensive K thermocouple panel mount receptacles.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/K-type-The...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649