Has anyone tried replicating GH Flora Series?

[kukac]

I entered the values from FloraMicro, FloraGro and FloraBloom into the Hydrobuddy app. I copied the guaranteed analysis from the GH pages.
I wanted to see what the ppm values were for each individual nutrient and then try to copy the solution with raw salts.
I went to FloraSeries 3-Part Growth Stage Basic Feedcharts, Medium feed, Late growth.
The quantities per gallon of water are:
MICRO 6.8ml
GRO 6.4ml
BLOOM 4.8ml

According to them, there should be 170 ppm of Nitrogen.
But when I put those amounts into the HydroBuddy I get about 125 ppm N
I checked several times, even calculated without the app.
Basically, something is wrong with their calculations

 

[Dime]

Hoping to get this info if someone has already done it. Saw it was done for AN 2 part system.

Basic is 3 part system with Grow, Bloom and Micro. They also have root enhancer, florablend, diamond nectar, floraliciuos, flora nectar. Those look like humic, molasses, sugar, and other basic items.

If i get no feedback, will start with basic 3 and try to get something cheap like Jacks to work.

If you want something cheap buy the salts and use the hoagland formula,you can find it easily witha search ,I used it when weed was illegal,I ordered the salts in big bags from my local farm supply store

 

[Drop That Sound]

https://generalhydroponics.com/products/florapro/

 

[PadawanWarrior]

its gun powder

Potassium nitrate isn't quite gunpowder. But it is one of the main ingredients. It makes good smoke bombs too if you mix it with equal parts sugar.

 

[Hiddenjems]

Potassium nitrate isn't quite gunpowder. But it is one of the main ingredients. It makes good smoke bombs too if you mix it with equal parts sugar.

Just needs charcoal and sulfur to make gunpowder.

You probably could make some kind of explosion with powdered sugar too.

 

[Chemdoge]

Basically, something is wrong with their calculations

They arent obligated to give you their recipe. Only weight minimums. It's agriculture. They're are obsessed with weight and that's where most scams begin. Which is funny because lots of people in the Cannabis scene resell shit like Jack's and you aren't getting the weight you pay for. Maybe that's why you internet pot guys don't understand much, too preoccupied with shorting people to make up for your lack.

If i get no feedback, will start with basic 3 and try to get something cheap like Jacks to work.

Jack's is expensive as hell. You online potheads need to stop repeating the dumb shit someone tells you.. They are always lying, like always.


Master blend is like half the price and doesn't have 6% magnesium (growers be fucking up their grows by adding extra Epsom to that stupid shit).

 

[Terppalooza]

They arent obligated to give you their recipe. Only weight minimums. It's agriculture. They're are obsessed with weight and that's where most scams begin. Which is funny because lots of people in the Cannabis scene resell shit like Jack's and you aren't getting the weight you pay for. Maybe that's why you internet pot guys don't understand much, too preoccupied with shorting people to make up for your lack.




Jack's is expensive as hell. You online potheads need to stop repeating the dumb shit someone tells you.. They are always lying, like always.


Master blend is like half the price and doesn't have 6% magnesium (growers be fucking up their grows by adding extra Epsom to that stupid shit).

why deal with all that, just buy, big ag fertilizers. haifa, yara so on. dirt cheep for a hobby grower, one 50 dollar bag might last some a lifetime.

 

[Hiddenjems]

why deal with all that, just buy, big ag fertilizers. haifa, yara so on. dirt cheep for a hobby grower, one 50 dollar bag might last some a lifetime.

Yeah I just checked and my current price on 25lbs of jacks is $85. It’s so cheap the savings of going cheaper is maybe $35 out of the 25+bs of weed it will grow.

 

[967]

I'm in New Zealand currently using Yara Kristalon 25kg for $119NZD.. I honestly don't think it comes cheaper. Calcinit is $39 for 25kg, so for $158 I've got the next decade or so of fertilizer for my grows . And just pulled my personal best. Used different bottles for years and this stuff does the same thing. Saturated market down here now so whatever one can do to reduce costs it's worthwhile. I'm currently unemployed so money is tight

Yara being an industry leader are one of the companies supplying the salts in those fancy canna or whatever bottles anyway. Pretty sure their r&d budget blows the smaller companies out of the water too, with less money wasted on marketing and promotions

I get that bottled nutes are more convenient for some, but it just doesn't justify the price difference to me. Takes me all of 15 mins or so to make up stock solutions, of which I get 250L concentrate of each. Shit I got a 20L stock in my garage as the base takes a little while to dissolve, which cost me under 10 bucks to make...

 

[Terppalooza]

Yeah I just checked and my current price on 25lbs of jacks is $85. It’s so cheap the savings of going cheaper is maybe $35 out of the 25+bs of weed it will grow.

thats still more then double, haifa or yara stuff. but i get it jacks is pretty good! i typed the jacks stuff into my npk calculator for my buddy recently and i think the vlaues are almost optimal. I worked out that. 1.08grams jacks 5-12-26 and 0.95gram of yara calcinit per liter of water would make close to my optimal recipe.
as for bottled nutrients just mix your own, its easy just involves som basic highschool math!

For example with this 2 part jacks recipie
For Part A: add 981ml of water and 189gram of calcinit together.
For Part B: add 978ml of water with 215grams of jacks 5-12-26 together.

thats your part a and part b. now these stock solutions you apply at 5ml per liter of water.
if you want the stock solution to last longer add sodium benzoate
for this recipie you need nothing else dont think about adding calmag. or pk boosters, they fuck up the ratio and result in less yield in my expreience. from clone to end of flower same feed.

 

[Orange's Greenhouse]

I get that bottled nutes are more convenient for some, but it just doesn't justify the price difference to me

Just make your own concentrated stock solutions (100-200 g/L).

That's what I do. 150 g of the base nutes and calcinit stock solutions each, one tank of water and adjust pH after the circulation pump mixed it.
An entire res done in 5 minutes.

 

[Orange's Greenhouse]

i typed the jacks stuff into my npk calculator for my buddy recently and i think the vlaues are almost optimal.

Did you dissolve an entire bag and then tested the solution in a lab?
Otherwise you don't know their recipe. The guaranteed minimum is just that, not the actual formula.

The are 'low P' ferts that guarantee just 1/3 of the P they contain.

 

[Roots&Fruits]

Some growers have used Dutch Nutrients Formula 6 Pack to make or supplement their own nutrient mixes. Guy I received pink kush cuts from used a mix he developed using only DNF 6 pack.

Dutch Nutrient 6-Pack Raw Nutrients | Peterborough Hydroponic Centre

peterboroughhydroponics.com

 

[Drop That Sound]

I see a lot of folks trying to mix up only a few gallons of jacks solution (or whatever brand) at a time, using small spoons\scoops, and only mixing up maybe 10-30 grams or less at a time from the large 25# bag. Its not a good idea, because the way it's blended up with all the different size and textures of the various ingredients.

The larger lighter chunks of one component work their way towards the top, while the lighter heavier granules get sifted towards the bottom, just like panning for gold, etc. The more you mess with the bag (especially small hobby growers mixing multiple small batches a week), the more it sifts itself into different layers and gets all out of whack.

Its not like maxibloom or other one part dry salts, which are all the same even blend of particles throughout the bag. In fact, having a bag of dry jacks part A shipped across the country via a bumpy truck ride truck is liable to vibrate it enough to throw off and separate pretty badly . So when you go to open the big bag and only scoop out 7-8 grams off the very top, its not gonna be the same mix as from digging down in further, etc. You'll mostly be getting little scoops full of the larger chunks, and so your ratios will never really be the same from scoop to scoop..

Its gonna be all over the place, unless you at least mix a decent amount of the part A into a stock solution, the way it was designed to be used. They expect you to be a large scale commercial greenhouse grower if buying 25lbs, and be mixing up stock batch for at least 100 gallons of solution or more, to even come close to the proper ratios.

 

[Drop That Sound]

I don't add preservatives when I make up stock batches.. I started spraying a tiny bit of argon gas back into the jug each time I pour some out to mix a res, so it displaces most the oxygen and possible contaminants from contacting the top layer of the solution. The gas is heavier and settles down like an invisible protective fluid layer over it, and keeps it from molding up.

 

[967]

Just make your own concentrated stock solutions (100-200 g/L).

That's what I do. 150 g of the base nutes and calcinit stock solutions each, one tank of water and adjust pH after the circulation pump mixed it.
An entire res done in 5 minutes.

Yah I make stock solutions at 100g/L for the reasons Drop That Sound mentioned above. Made a 20L so using 2kg of the bag hopefully yielding more consistent mix. The Yara stuff seems fairly consistently milled anyway, but I guess different chemical compounds have different weights and shit and will settle anyway to some extent

Anyone got any idea how long a stock solution will last before pathogens/contamination or what have you spoils it? Didn't really consider this an issue when I made it...

 

[Drop That Sound]

I've never had a batch go bad. Not even full gallons with almost a lb of part A, without doing anything. I'm pretty clean about mixing, and use fresh jugs with RO water. I only started using the gas once I heard other growers had stock solutions go funky.. I also use it to keep other products from oxidizing, and paints/stains from skimming over or drying out for years. Figured that trick out after messing around and adding a tiny amount of pool shock granules to the stock solution, which I was worried about reactions happening.. I don't like using additives or preservatives along with the stock solutions if I can get away with it though. I would use the recommended preservative chemicals if didn't know about using argon instead.

Maybe I'm just lucky, and live in a cooler climate. Wash my hands and don't backwash anything into the jugs, etc. I've had leftover jugs of part A and B both sit outside in the greenhouse for whole seasons, and still looked like I could use them 2 years later, after freezing and thawing, then baking over and over so many times. No mold or anything..


100g per liter I wouldn't even worry about it. Gallons of super concentrate maybe..

 

[Orange's Greenhouse]

Anyone got any idea how long a stock solution will last before pathogens/contamination or what have you spoils it? Didn't really consider this an issue when I made it...

Depends on the product. Some should be stable indefinitely. I have a different product that starts growing mould after 2 or 3 months.
Quite amazing to be honest.

 

[967]

I'll use it within a year I'm sure. I once asked flairform how long their bloom formula lasts as l'd had it for years, which they told me if stored in their container appropriately and not exposed to extreme temp swings should be a decade +. Was fully expecting them to tell me until the use by date then replace it

So I guess it's largely about how it's handled more than time...

 

[Loc Dog]

I'll use it within a year I'm sure. I once asked flairform how long their bloom formula lasts as l'd had it for years, which they told me if stored in their container appropriately and not exposed to extreme temp swings should be a decade +. Was fully expecting them to tell me until the use by date then replace it

So I guess it's largely about how it's handled more than time...

Best stored in dark and under 70F.